Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire $240 to Build a Deer Blind

Joe hit the nail squarely on the head - lifting something by its top requires a lot more engineering than lifting something from underneath the bottom (i.e., with the bottom supported), and you would probably weaken the structure each time you picked it up from above unless you did a really good job of engineering it - and that would be difficult to do with wood given the variability in wood.

My order of preference (based on the knowledge gained with a couple degrees in mechanical engineeering) if I was assigned to design it would be to design it to move by

1. lifting from beneath with forks on the tractor
2. dragging it with it sitting on 4x4 runners or another sturdy base like has been mentioned
3. lifting from the top (a very distant third choice)

One thing to note about building it to pull on runners is that you need to make sure the runners are parallel, and if you have to err on either side of parallel to make sure they are pointed so you would be pulling with the sharp side of the V (relatively speaking since you probably would still want to get them as close as possible to parallel) pointed forward rather than the "open" side.

Dad used to keep his hog houses on runners, and just move them around, back when it was $$feasible for a farmer to run a few hogs. I agree with Joe 788 and RR.

Smithwr,,,
"...a little cheap trailer axle..." Got one of these and think its a great idea,,, any chance I/we could get some pic's of yours? tnx

How about some pictures? Some of these blinds sound like motel rooms. Awesome...

Cole, These guys are giving good advice about construction, particularly the use of 4"x4"'s. Landscape timbers are cheap and work as well. Like Bart, my boxes are a home away from home. If I may give one bit of advise, go 5'x5', rather than 4'x8'. It causes a few more cuts but can accomodate a couple of people more comfortably and if you hunt alone, it is not a walk to any window. My advice as to travel is to fabricate it at home and assemble it with dry-wall screws. G'Luck!

I have built several over the years. Just like Pat said, 4 x 8 is too big. My latest build is 4' x 5.5' with pitched roof (high at the back door and low in front). Built on 3/4 plywood floor bolted 4x4's to skid. Depending on the bucket of your tractor, it could be picked up and chained to the bucket for moving.
My other advice is lots of paint before the wood goes together and more coats after. Paint interior black. I buy the "returned" exterior paint at Lowes.
I think you price is about on unless you discover a cheap source of lumber.

stumpy

Cole, I don't have any sort of stationary blind myself but I did help a buddy build one a few years ago. I'll try to swing by it some time today and grab a photo or two.

It is not my design so I won't champion it - it more closely resembles a duck blind with a roof (read long and skinny) rather than the more practical designs others have mentioned here that would provide better shootin' in 360 degrees. This one was built with its home in mind, along with the thought of more than one hunter occupying it and only covering a 180 degree field of fire.

Probably not what you want but I bought a commercial 'mini-tower' stand that is 7' off the ground, trap door entrance, expanded metal floor. The top is a camo pop up style blind. It has lasted 4 years now with the blind out for about 6 months each year. Color is now terribly faded. It may have one more year. I got it for about $300. It's PERFECT for a father son hunt.
I'm thinking about replacing the top with a PVC frame and camo burlap. But I may not be dealing with the same weather conditions that neccesitate hunting out of a rigid box.

I recommend using deck screws instead of drywall screws. They don't rust out nearly as fast.

I appreciate all the advice. I've got all sorts of screws laying around and most of them are stainless or coated of some type. I've probably got a few that aren't impervious to the weather, so I'll keep it in mind when I pick out what I'm gonna use. One thing is certain-sure, I ain't using nails.

Put in a small stove and cut some holes in the floor of this thing and you got yourself what we call a fish house!

I would think carpeting the floor would be a good idea. It would reduce the noise you make moving around and improve the insulation.

I'm in the panhandle in a deer blind as I type this with my blind 4 hours away but I'll try to describe it. I have a piece of pipe welded to the center of the axle at a 90 degree angle for the "trailer tougne" the actual blind is 4x6. With 3 4"x4" "runners" underneath covered with 1" marine plywood floor screwed on top. I have u bolts ran thru the floor and around the axle with one ran thru the floor and around the tougne. On top of the floor the ubolts are connected with angle iron in a pyrimid shape for stability. I just layed carpet over the bolts and angle iron but I suppose you could put in a sub floor over all of it if you wanted to hide it. Then I cut the bottom 2/3 of the pipe out in the front for a hitch and cut a hole to put a pin thru. Then just framed up some walls and cut a door and windows. Its gonna go 90mph down the road but it works for field transport. Now that's about as clear as mud I hope I've helped a little.

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Buy 1" square tubing and some corner braces, screw together with self tapping screws. Use what ever you want for the walls, floor. The frame is very light and extremely durable, will last for years. You can also build a base if you decide to elevate it. It can be made collapsible which is very convenient.

I had a frame that lasted for 15 years. Finally ditched it and built another.................

Farm boy? You bet! We have built hogsheds, cattle feeders, and chicken coops on runners, Always a good idea as they can be moved. Any size is fine, one advantage by making it 4x8 is plywood is already cut to that size and makes it easier to put it all together!
Seen 9 deer today, all to far to away to shoot at, will go out again tomorrow! Good luck hunting everybody!