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Of course we know what AMU shoots too.... not narrow....

For me, rear aperture size and when I went hooded helped... but playing the rear ap size helped clear up the front.... of course I smoked and pencil marked the front too...

Pencil marked? Please explain.

My strategy so far mirrors what you're advising.

BTW, how many minutes elevation did you notice from, say, a 80-degree day vs. a 95-degree day? I use Re-15 in my loads and they have been so heat-tolerant that I feel like I'm screwing up.

80-95 no change at all with Viht 500 series powders and max loads... Not even 1/4 moa change at 600.

Smoke front sight well. Take SHARP lead pencil, come down from top just a hair on the back side, the side you can see.. make a sharp diagonal mark on the post.

If you can't see the pencil mark then you know you are not focusing on the front post the way you should be. Just a double check thing that keeps you in focus, especially in rapids I would notice the mark between each shot and it keeps me going.

...and we know who the AMU is too....NOT 40+ year old nags that are only shooting because they want to, not because they have talent!

I'm not sure what Rost's point was regarding the AMU, but I believe they shoot a .072 post...quite large, and quite opposite from what you'd think.

And oh, Grant Singley is well over 40 and still whups most everyones ass!

Yeah, but Grant is definitely not a blind old nag!

I'm just saying that what the AMU shoots and what some random, half blind HP competitor shoots may not be the same thing. And I'm sure not saying Jeff is a blind old nag. But it is a different circumstance.

I don't think that what works for your average 25 or 30 yo AMU shooter is necessarily going to work for your average 45 or 50 yo HP shooter.

I thought my point twas obvious... they basically shoot a wide trued up battle front post.

I'd more bet that the AMU setup would work for aging eyes rather than my setup...
I'm 45, and have had vision issues since about 15 or so.... I dont' think of myself as an old nag, but I've never thought of me having good vision. Though my close up vision has never been real bad... which helps in a few pistol matches Iv'e shot... I can take off the correction, blur the target really bad so I can focus on the pistol sight....

In fact I'd bet that AMU solution works better for most in the end if you can get used to it. Fact is I just don't like it....

BarryC,
Does "C" = Coleman?

Thats my guess. I know the name...... IL junior from the 90s maybe? My brain is weak...

Coleman? No.

I'm a blind old nag and the 72 just doesn't work for me. It gets lost in the background, the sides disappear.

Someday I'll get my eyes fixed up just right and I'll actually start shooting. Maybe then I'll be able to see that 72 like them young'uns.

Missed that guess.

I'm guessing here... 72..... use the battle post cleaned up. Then make sure you have a hooded rear sight, and probably a bit larger aperture, around 50 or 52 maybe....

Glasses for shooting have to have the reading correction in them. You can't use a distance correction.

While I have always had decent vision up close, for the front sight I have to add a bit of negative for me.... along the lines of -1 or so... where my distance correction is actually stronger than that by about double.

If you have astigmatism that has to be corrected too since you deal with a round bullseye, regardless of what hold you use.

I'd bet center mass would be the most forgiving all the way across the course for you but DON"T write off a sub six hold... even as far as holding frame width and sub six half way to the bottom of the frame...

Jeff,
Don't waste your time.

Chris,
I've been through all the futzing with post size and aperture size. I'm not a piker; I've been shooting competitively for 10 years. I know what my mistake has been. I'll probably stick with my 52 post. If I change it, it will be smaller. I have the log books & stats showing that my scores are higher with it than with 62s and 72s.

I've always gone with a minimal + diopter. In retrospect, that has been a mistake. It has kept me from cross firing and allowed me to shoot in the 190s out to 300 and at 600, but only at 600 on ranges with good light like Perry. This year I'm getting a Microsight to solve that problem. I'll still be able to read the boards and I'm hoping I'll be able to see the post even at ranges with poor lighting.

It's been tough. My relatively good shooting up close and at the big ranges has masked my problem. When I get to these little ranges tucked back in the hollers is where I tank at 600 and those wide posts only make it worse.

I wouldn't shoot in the little ranges then...

for me, and I"m about 26 years behind you, aperture size is hugely critical on vision of the post. Tint has been hugely critical in clear sight picture.

Crossfiring, I have to first make sure I"m lined up on the right target, and once I'm on that target I forget it. But I have to verify every time. I cannot read the number boards easily with my vision.. and often have to figure out another way to set up verification....

Just had an emergency eye exam yesterday.... it was one of those things I'd forgotten.... certain diopters make images sharper for me, certain ones make images larger...

Thats why I"ve said, the only way to know for sure... get the doc to let you take some of the single test lenses in your general area.... IE for me it was within 1.0 either side of my correction just to be safe.... and play with it on the range with good lighting....you'd be surprised some days...

rost, Did you usually scope your first two shots between magazine changes at 200 & 300 rapid?

Do you really want to know? I assume, you asked....

Anyway to stop being a smartazz.... I ALWAYS scope... at 200 I shoot 2 and look but I can reload while looking, and I have my sitting scope setup so I can lean forward and look while reloading.... I don't lean backwards to look, just me... takes very little movement and by the time the bolt is closed I am usually good. ITs rare that I"m off at 200, but there have been times that I'll recenter.... IE a pair of mid ring 10s at 3 will net me 2 left minimum for the second mag.

At 300 my scope is set up so that I can only roll my head slightly.. and to be totally honest, if its crazy or I'm not sure at all of the wind call etc... it was not uncommon for me to scope the first shot at 300. And then the 2nd at mag change. Just depends on whats called for on the day. Without sighters sometimes you just can't afford another 9... or worse...
Now don't get me wrong, I"ve said it before, first I look wide as in 8/9.. I know I won't be off more than that unless I screwed the wind knob or something..... or went the wrong way.... then I glance inward looking, but I wont' waste too much time on the first look, if I take that one, and on the 2nd I won't either.... There is a fine line there. And sometimes if you look in the scope you'll realize there is NO way you'll ever see holes that day.. if thats the case I look after shot #2 while reloading just a bit... but those days I don't waste time I spend it on trying harder than normal to shoot a 10x clean perfectly...

Be SURE to look your face over really hard in dry fire... thats more important than dry fire in some aspects... to make sure you know every little prick on that face that looks almost like a hole.... you get the drift.. hate to correct of something thats not your holes.

Bottom line again... you have to reload and that takes time.. that can be done while looking in the scope... that amount of time is not a waste.... but you have to have a trained hand... the mag should be dropping free of the gun as it comes off the shoulder, I usually would add a little flip action to get it clear... I have to look at the mag, thats placed where it works best for me, but once I make mag contact it goes home and the bolt closes while Im' in the scope.

I hadn't thought of that - that's good advise. Kinda like staring at a deer woods for two hours and when you look up and there he is! Just stands out because he wasn't there the past two hours....

When you scope and find yourself off, say in the 9-ring or the edge of the black, do you dial the correction on your sight or just hold off a bit to compensate?