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Originally Posted by rhbrink
I have read through this twice and did not see anyone mention lube what is everyone using for lube? I hope that it isn't bore butter, chapstick would make a better lube. Good old fashioned Emmerts (home made) works great as does DGL my favorite, any good BPCR lube would I'm sure help a bunch. And one other thought paperpatch bullets love shallow rifling.

Yep borebutter or wonderlube is what I have on hand.

GB1

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Originally Posted by Joshua_M_Smith
Hello,

Triple Se7en does not work well in sidelocks. Was never intended to.

I'll bet a bunch that you're getting a lot of variation.

You're also shooting a bit much powder for those types of conicals. I would hazard a guess that you're stripping lead on the rifling now and again.

As an example of the load you should be using, the old .58 rifled muskets firing minie-balls only used a 60gn charge of 2Fg to keep from blowing the skirt (not a problem with the R.E.A.L. bullets) and to keep them from stripping the rifling.

The R.E.A.L. bullets use a slightly different mechanism; no skirt to blow so you can go with slightly higher pressure.

However, you still want to back off of what you're using.

Start with a load of 50gns (by volume, always) 2Fg black powder or Pyrodex RS. (I know you want to use Triple Se7en, and we'll get to that.)

See what kind of accuracy you get with a three shot group.

Bump it up by 5gns, and fire another three-shot group.

You will probably find the best accuracy around 70gns, then it will start to fall off.

T/C lists max for that rifle (if I remember correctly, CHECK FOR YOURSELF) as 110gns 2Fg. I personally consider 90gns to be max as defined by the old guidelines: Start at the bore size (50gns for .50 caliber) and end at half the round ball weight (180gns for the ball, 90gns for the charge).

Optimum accuracy is usually found right in between those two at 60 or 70gns.

After you have it shooting at its optimum accuracy, reduce the charge by about 15% and see how it does with Triple Se7en. I would recommend switching to a musket cap, though, for more consistent ignition.

Just an FYI:

Blackpowder = charcoal + sulfur + saltpeter

Pyrodex = charcoal + sulfur + saltpeter + potassium perchlorate

Triple Se7en = charcoal + saltpeter + potassium perchlorate

Triple Se7en has no real advantage over black or Pyrodex when loading or storing. It's just as hygroscopic. The best way to keep it loaded is to use an over-the-powder wad. I just use a cotton ball, but the traditional thing to use is paper wasp or hornet nest. It just creates a barrier to keep lube out of the powder.

Put a piece of leather or rubber on the nipple and lower the hammer onto that. The load column is then at least as airtight as a modern cartridge.

Forgive the length of this post; just wanted to make sure the bases were covered. I ain't a master of this black art yet, but I shore been studyin' with 'em! laugh

Josh
IN your post you mentioned stripping in the rifleing, got me to thinking, if that is the case the barrel would be badly fouled with lead that is not comeing out with normal cleaning. What would be the best way to remove the lead??? thanks in advance

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Originally Posted by 270WSMANIC
Originally Posted by Joshua_M_Smith
Hello,

Triple Se7en does not work well in sidelocks. Was never intended to.

I'll bet a bunch that you're getting a lot of variation.

You're also shooting a bit much powder for those types of conicals. I would hazard a guess that you're stripping lead on the rifling now and again.

As an example of the load you should be using, the old .58 rifled muskets firing minie-balls only used a 60gn charge of 2Fg to keep from blowing the skirt (not a problem with the R.E.A.L. bullets) and to keep them from stripping the rifling.

The R.E.A.L. bullets use a slightly different mechanism; no skirt to blow so you can go with slightly higher pressure.

However, you still want to back off of what you're using.

Start with a load of 50gns (by volume, always) 2Fg black powder or Pyrodex RS. (I know you want to use Triple Se7en, and we'll get to that.)

See what kind of accuracy you get with a three shot group.

Bump it up by 5gns, and fire another three-shot group.

You will probably find the best accuracy around 70gns, then it will start to fall off.

T/C lists max for that rifle (if I remember correctly, CHECK FOR YOURSELF) as 110gns 2Fg. I personally consider 90gns to be max as defined by the old guidelines: Start at the bore size (50gns for .50 caliber) and end at half the round ball weight (180gns for the ball, 90gns for the charge).

Optimum accuracy is usually found right in between those two at 60 or 70gns.

After you have it shooting at its optimum accuracy, reduce the charge by about 15% and see how it does with Triple Se7en. I would recommend switching to a musket cap, though, for more consistent ignition.

Just an FYI:

Blackpowder = charcoal + sulfur + saltpeter

Pyrodex = charcoal + sulfur + saltpeter + potassium perchlorate

Triple Se7en = charcoal + saltpeter + potassium perchlorate

Triple Se7en has no real advantage over black or Pyrodex when loading or storing. It's just as hygroscopic. The best way to keep it loaded is to use an over-the-powder wad. I just use a cotton ball, but the traditional thing to use is paper wasp or hornet nest. It just creates a barrier to keep lube out of the powder.

Put a piece of leather or rubber on the nipple and lower the hammer onto that. The load column is then at least as airtight as a modern cartridge.

Forgive the length of this post; just wanted to make sure the bases were covered. I ain't a master of this black art yet, but I shore been studyin' with 'em! laugh

Josh
IN your post you mentioned stripping in the rifleing, got me to thinking, if that is the case the barrel would be badly fouled with lead that is not comeing out with normal cleaning. What would be the best way to remove the lead??? thanks in advance


The very best way to remove lead is with mercury. Since the EPA has regulated that stuff, though, the second best way would be lots of elbow grease and/or lead-out.

Josh

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Originally Posted by Joshua_M_Smith

Thanks alot Joshua for the link, I'll be getting some of that to try first chance I get.

IC B2

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