Home Forums Gear Photography tell what camra takes a pic just the way i see it

I often use a Filson hat as a makeshift rest,or a pack,etc. I'm a fan of IS,but get by shooting from hand,until things slow below 1/10 or so.

The Sigma 105 2.8 is a 1:1 and often lauded,in it's IQ abilities...but don't know if the focal length would do you in or not,for your pursuits. They make a 50mm 2.8 version that's 1:1 as well.

Do you shoot any extension tubes? What are you using as a timer/release?................

A canvas, brush and paints.

Short answer: none of them. In the simplest explanation, the human eye and cameras "see" light differently. It takes a considerable amount of study and practice to come close to capturing what your eyes see. If you're serious about it, I would suggest enrolling in a basic photography class. You can also pick up a lot of pointers with all of the basic digital "how to" photo books on the market now.

Pretty easy to [bleep] an LCD.

Just sayin'..............

OK. What does that mean?

After the poke,gawk the histogram to get a feel for exposure. If stumped,one can bracket themself or gun a bracket in auto via preset.

Folks is making this [bleep] seem a lot harder than it is.

How/where you meter,is the money maker too...............

For some, yes. For others, not so easy. That's why I advise starting with the fundamentals, as in... gaining at least a basic understanding of light, exposure, compensation, etc., not to mention the finer points of composition, manipulating color saturation, etc. After all, some folks DO spend a lifetime mastering this stuff.

Just sayin'

No excuse for slow learning,in the Digital Age. Results are instant and all stares one in the face.

Starting with a great camera,will yield the most,the fastest.............

Assuming they even know what a histogram is... and how to adjust.

Many don't.

Neither take a lifetime to locate or learn.

If my 9yr old can do it,I'm sure some here can too.

Just sayin'................

Olympus M-System here and some Pens for 2 fers Advanced stuff ain't it?
I recken I can hit what I'm shootin at..

Common sense is a wonderous thang...................

Yeah. F8 and be there..and time marched on!

Ansel was onto something with the Group F/64 Thang...though I tend to shoot far closer to WFO on the average.

Main thing is,just shoot..............

The first thing I tell a new camera owner is to shoot, shoot, and shoot some more. Digital "film" is cheap. The second thing I tell them is to start practicing to see what you are looking at. You no longer have to wait for film developing turn around to see what you captured, gratification or disappointment is just a button click away. Even low end P&S cameras will have a dozen shooting modes on board. I've seen it over and over the camera is set on idiot mode and left there. I've answered the "why don't my pictures look like what I took" so many times that I now just give that person a printed step by step how to on learning about their camera and lighting.
Canon TC-80N3 is the timer I use now that I'm shooting 5s. Back in my film days it was a cable set camera to B and use a stop watch. I have a friend who uses extension tubes. I saw some of the stuff he shot with his 70-200 with tubes. I was surprised. I see it now as just more stuff to drag through the blackberries. I use the 50mm Macro alone for most of the macro stuff I shoot and the rest is wth the life-size converter and a Velbon focusing platform.

Every poke is a tracer and folks who cain't savvy that,are beyond help.

Was musing the 80N3 in both Canon and 2nd party versions. Also kicking around several higher zoot intervalometers and am kinda torn.

Tubes are fast/easy and light...as well as inexpensive............

Some cameras can create HDR images. HDR is High Dynamic Range, which more closely resembles what the eye can see. The other option is to create HDR images in post processing. With either method you will capture the details in both highlights and shadows. The sky won't be blown out and the mountains will show detail. This is accomplished by combining under, over, and 0ev exposed images into a single image. Ansel Adams created HDR images in the wet darkroom. Some NIKON cameras also have Active D lighting which helps with high contrast scenes.

Ansel's dodge/burn techniques,ain't the issue,nor the answer(thus far).

Pretty easy to [bleep]................

The question was what camera takes a picture of something, in this case a high contrast mountain scene, the way eyes see it. Since NO sensor or camera will capture the full dynamic range the human eye can see in one image that leaves HDR. Since the OP wanted to know what camera would capture the requested image you're left with in camera HDR image creation. Ansel used dodge/burn techniques to recreate the full dynamic range of the scene because the camera couldn't do it. Using the histogram and Ansel Adams/Minor White's zone system allow getting the best single image, within the limits of the camera. Still not clear on the [bleep] thing. That's a new one.

"Just sayin...."

One could only begin to imagine the length of the list,which denoted all the things you don't know about Photography.

You're on a roll!...............