I searched but couldnt find a thread on this. I just learned how to change the Parallax on a scope myself (did my first 2 yesterday) and was wondering if there was a specific target or method you used when changing yours. I just used my archery target in the backyard but it was a pain.
I got it. I just went through the process with Leupolds Customer Service and they stated "that's how it's done" and "it will not void your warranty" so I am proceeding with caution because if I purge the gas I WILL have to pay for that repair but so far on one Simmons,Bushnell and Leupold VXII I am good to go.
Use at your own risk....
1)Take a strap wrench or your hand and twist off the Objective Cap.
2) This will expose the Objective lens carrier (The black threaded section)
3) Set a target at the desired distance and the scope on a solid rest. CHECK FOR Parallax.
4) In order to shorten the focus turn this piece counter clockwise with your hand and to increase turn clockwise. WARNING THERE IS NO STOP ON THE LENSE CARRIER IF YOU SCREW IT OUT TOO FAR THE GAS SEAL WILL RELEASE.
5) Only screw 1/4 revolution and check for Parallax. Keep doing this 1/4 turn at a time until the image is stable when you move your head.
6) Hand tighten the Objective Cap and you're done.
That's it....The Scope is now set for the desired distance.
I dont want to post it because I dont want to deal with someone who makes a mistake and blames me. I will be happy to tell you and you can post if you like.
That's basically it except with the Leupold I had to use a Strap Wrench. The Simmons and Bushnell I removed by hand. None were attached with loctite and the Lens Carrier can be screwed by hand.....do not use a metal rod or file like this guy suggests.
Basically you are turning the lens carrier just like with an AO scope....the obvious difference is that you don't have the nice numbered ring. Also it only takes about 3 minutes from start to finish....these guys make it sound complicated for effect.
Since I posted this I've had people PM me that the Erector controlled Parallax and that the Ocular adjustment controlled it.....neither is true. The distance that the Objective lens rests from the Ocular controls Parallax.
Thank you for this great tip, Bruzer. A agree with JM that you shouldn't be so shy with details. I imagine there are plenty of us with extra centerfire scopes that we'd like to put on a 22 and I know the first one I do won't be an expensive one.
Why would you post this if you didn't want to explain how it was done?
Don't really see any difference in possibly ruining a scope via PM or post.
John,
In my PMs I was providing my phone number so that I could walk them through it verbally. I walked 3 folks through it yesterday with success. I'm making a video this weekend that I will post if anyone wants to see the process.
It is really simple and the risk of ruining a scope is minimal in my opinion. At worst you would have to send the scope in to be charged with gas and that would take a monumental blunder on the behalf of the person performing the Parallax adjustment.
I've adjusted the parallax on four or five of my scopes. It's no big deal.
One tip I'll give you is if the front ring cannot be loosened by hand try some duct tape. A full width size piece wrapped once or twice around the ring, then flip it over a 1/2 turn, wrap some more, wrinkle it, wad it up and then another couple of wraps. The object of all this is to have a big wrinkly wad of duct that you can grab on to. It works and you won't have to buy a strap wrench.
The black threaded Objective Lens Carrier is the piece that you turn Counter Clockwise to shorten the focus or clockwise to lengthen the focus. The only difficult removal was the Leupold so far and Fishheads tape trick works as I just tried it in lieu of a strap wrench.
Note....Every scope I've tried so far will focus down to 40 yards. I didn't push it past that point.
I bought a Nikon Pro Staff 2-7x32 to put on of my .22's. Very nice scope for the money. I tried to adjust the parallax down to fourty yards - no problems with that - but the carrier stuck out past the body of the scope and it wouldn't allow the ring to be screwed down all the way. It left a big gap between the body and the ring which I just didn't like.
One other tip. After re-setting the parallax - re-adjust the crosshair focus with the occular lense. In a couple of scopes it seemed to have an effect. I could be wrong though, if does actually have an effect or not. It's worth checking anyway.
... but the carrier stuck out past the body of the scope and it wouldn't allow the ring to be screwed down all the way. It left a big gap between the body and the ring which I just didn't like.
Could you fill that gap with an O-ring? Just a thought....
... but the carrier stuck out past the body of the scope and it wouldn't allow the ring to be screwed down all the way. It left a big gap between the body and the ring which I just didn't like.
Could you fill that gap with an O-ring? Just a thought....
You could and it would probably work just fine - might look a little funny though. I gave up on it for the .22 and put it on my muzzleloader instead.
Just remember that on some scopes the lens carrier will try to move when you are removing the objective cap. On most scopes you can hold in place with a very small screwdriver but be careful that it doesn't slip and scratch the objective lens.
Just remember that on some scopes the lens carrier will try to move when you are removing the objective cap. On most scopes you can hold in place with a very small screwdriver but be careful that it doesn't slip and scratch the objective lens.
I ran into a similar but opposite problem with a Nikon. The cap unscrewed without the carrier moving but after adjusting the parallax and when tightening the cap it screwed the carrier back in to the original factory parallax setting. Nikon used some type of clear thread locker, similar to fingernail polish, that clogged up the threads and wouldn't let the cap screw in place freely.
I tried holding the carrier in place with a small screwdriver but that didn't work so I used a Dremel tool with a fine wire brush to clean the threads and problem solved.
Thanks to the OP and the commenters. I had no idea this was even possible. Thought there was complicated internal work involved in changing the parallax free yardage. Good info!
It's a common misconception that one end or the other of a scope controls parallax, but as you noted it's essentially the entire system.
With many lower-powered scopes I've found small amounts of parallax at 50 yards can be adjusted out just by focusing the rear end, but it doesn't work with all scopes.
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Changed several over the years. Very easy to do. Never knew it was such a big secret to some.
Strangely, I hadn't thought of it for a long time now, and just told a guy on another forum it could be done. Then I stumble onto this thread. Weird, wild stuff.
I didn't hit the link to Rimfire central, but if it is what I think it is, it is a very good write up on the subject and explains te process well......
Just changed my Leupold vari x III 3.5-10x40 to a 40 yard parallax for squirrel hunting. It was just sitting in the safe but now it sits atop my BRNO 22. Easy breezy. This thread should be a sticky in "rim fire" section.
Just be careful to watch that the lense doesn't turn when unscrewing objective cap or screwing back on. Mine wanted to turn when screwing cap off and back on. I just held it the lense end, by the grove with my fingernail, while taking ring off and putting ring back on, and it worked fine.
Agreed on a sticky in the rimfire section. I've done a couple of VX1 2-7s for 50 yards and it works as well as he said it does.
The objective lens carrier was pretty tight to turn on one scope. I found a piece of metal that was long enough to fit across the objective lens and about 1/16th" thick that fit in the slots on both sides of the lens carrier. It makes it a lot easier to turn and adjust the carrier. I'd guess the back of a table knife blade would probably work as well. I don't know if it would work that way on other scopes.
Today I rim-fired a Leupold Rifleman 3-9X40 to 25 yards. Target is crystal clear on 9 power at 25 yards, still clear and very little parallax at 50 yards.
Now, I am thinking of going the other way. Convert a VX-1 3-9X40 Heavy Duplex shotgun scope for Centerfire rifle use.
Just did my first one...An older Japan Nikon 2-7. Had to use a strap wrench to get it broke loose, the adjustment was pretty stiff and I used a thin piece of metal in the two slots to turn.
It's on a squirrel rifle and I couldn't decide on 35 or 40 yards so I set it at 38.
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