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Originally Posted by 163bc
I use a torque wrench and use torque specs supplied by Tally.


I don't have those specs handy. Please tell me what they are.

Thanks!


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Originally Posted by nsaqam
Originally Posted by WranglerJohn
Don't lap Talley rings, substitute Burris Signature rings for them. I wouldn't own another set of anything Talley. Sorry, they are a poor performing product that leaves a scope tube scratched and deformed, and they are almost impossible to keep tight. My friend and I have a Talley laugh fest when we see some rube with them on a rifle. Rule of thumb is to never use a vertically split ring, or a one piece ring and base.



This entire post is ludicrous.
LMAO


I haven't used anything but Tally in years, with the exception of sume super tall Warne on an AR. No comparison at all.


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Someone will corret me if I'm wrong, but I believe the rings are 15-20 inch pounds, and the bases are 25-30 inch pounds!

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Originally Posted by Ackleyfan
Someone will corret me if I'm wrong, but I believe the rings are 15-20 inch pounds, and the bases are 25-30 inch pounds!


I'm in that range -- did the bases to 30 and rings to 20. Believe I got that from info that came with my FAT wrench.




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Originally Posted by WranglerJohn
Don't lap Talley rings, substitute Burris Signature rings for them. I wouldn't own another set of anything Talley. Sorry, they are a poor performing product that leaves a scope tube scratched and deformed, and they are almost impossible to keep tight. My friend and I have a Talley laugh fest when we see some rube with them on a rifle. Rule of thumb is to never use a vertically split ring, or a one piece ring and base.


Lots give advice when they should be asking for it...


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Originally Posted by nsaqam
Originally Posted by WranglerJohn
Don't lap Talley rings, substitute Burris Signature rings for them. I wouldn't own another set of anything Talley. Sorry, they are a poor performing product that leaves a scope tube scratched and deformed, and they are almost impossible to keep tight. My friend and I have a Talley laugh fest when we see some rube with them on a rifle. Rule of thumb is to never use a vertically split ring, or a one piece ring and base.


This entire post is ludicrous.
LMAO


Oh, I don't know about that. I agree with the first four words. I've got Talley aluminum lightweights on a half dozen of my rifles, and I've only lapped one pair, which was really unecessary. The rest I've checked with the Wheeler Engineering kit and the alignment has been fine with no need to lap. The rifles are Kimbers and M70s, by the way. Anyway, the only scope marks I have from any of my Talleys are the ones on the scope with the lapped rings. So I agree, "don't lap your Talleys." LMAO.



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Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by nsaqam
Originally Posted by WranglerJohn
Don't lap Talley rings, substitute Burris Signature rings for them. I wouldn't own another set of anything Talley. Sorry, they are a poor performing product that leaves a scope tube scratched and deformed, and they are almost impossible to keep tight. My friend and I have a Talley laugh fest when we see some rube with them on a rifle. Rule of thumb is to never use a vertically split ring, or a one piece ring and base.


This entire post is ludicrous.
LMAO


Oh, I don't know about that. I agree with the first four words. I've got Talley aluminum lightweights on a half dozen of my rifles, and I've only lapped one pair, which was really unecessary. The rest I've checked with the Wheeler Engineering kit and the alignment has been fine with no need to lap. The rifles are Kimbers and M70s, by the way. Anyway, the only scope marks I have from any of my Talleys are the ones on the scope with the lapped rings. So I agree, "don't lap your Talleys." LMAO.


Good catch!

The first four words ARE correct.


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Originally Posted by WoodsyAl
I don't have those specs handy. Please tell me what they are.

Thanks!


For the lightweight setups 20-25 in-lb for the base, 17 in-lb for the rings.

Steel: bases 20-25 in-lb; Fixed rings, bottom screw 35 in-lb top screw 17-24 in-lb. Detachable rings: large bottom screw 35 in-lb, small bottom screws 30 in-lb, top screws 17-24 in-lb.


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Originally Posted by 163bc
Originally Posted by WoodsyAl
I don't have those specs handy. Please tell me what they are.

Thanks!


For the lightweight setups 20-25 in-lb for the base, 17 in-lb for the rings.

Steel: bases 20-25 in-lb; Fixed rings, bottom screw 35 in-lb top screw 17-24 in-lb. Detachable rings: large bottom screw 35 in-lb, small bottom screws 30 in-lb, top screws 17-24 in-lb.



Many thanks! I'm using steel. Looks like I overdid it a bit by tightening the bases to 30. I'll make a note of these specs.


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My Talley lightweights had a high spot on the rear ring toward the fore end of the rifle. After lapping, it was corrected. Maybe I should have traded them for another set of rings..

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Thanks guys! All the info is much appreciated!
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A Guild smith started measuring surface contact on out of the box bases, rings, and ringmounts, including Talleys, on factory receivers; none were ever found to give a proper percentage of surface contact with many giving under 50%. To my knowledge it is near impossible to take a new production rifle, a new set of Talley mounts, and a new scope, and mount them together to end up with the proper aligned 80% surface contact. This is impossible due to tolerance stacking. My hunting partner is one of the Guild smiths and is one of the top machinists in the Nation. He does likes Talleys and I use them as a result. In his shop, I've personally never seen an out of the box combination on a factory rifle result in better than 60% surface contact, and every one of those sets needed to be reworked for proper alignment. Even when the receiver was re-machined to correct QC alignment issues with the factory rifle, the rings still needed work to reach 80%.

Not saying you guys are making stuff up, but based on what I've seen measured in a Guild shop, I'm not seeing it, and this is probably the reason so many are tweaking light scope tubes as their rings are not truly in alignment as the believe. If this is the case where the scopes are mounted askew, make sure you stay under the max recommended screw torque. You may even consider an old trick where you add a piece of electrical tape to act as a grip and buffer to hold with light torque.

Best smile


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Originally Posted by GaryVA
A Guild smith started measuring surface contact on out of the box bases, rings, and ringmounts, including Talleys, on factory receivers; none were ever found to give a proper percentage of surface contact with many giving under 50%. To my knowledge it is near impossible to take a new production rifle, a new set of Talley mounts, and a new scope, and mount them together to end up with the proper aligned 80% surface contact. This is impossible due to tolerance stacking. My hunting partner is one of the Guild smiths and is one of the top machinists in the Nation. He does likes Talleys and I use them as a result. In his shop, I've personally never seen an out of the box combination on a factory rifle result in better than 60% surface contact, and every one of those sets needed to be reworked for proper alignment. Even when the receiver was re-machined to correct QC alignment issues with the factory rifle, the rings still needed work to reach 80%.

Not saying you guys are making stuff up, but based on what I've seen measured in a Guild shop, I'm not seeing it, and this is probably the reason so many are tweaking light scope tubes as their rings are not truly in alignment as the believe. If this is the case where the scopes are mounted askew, make sure you stay under the max recommended screw torque. You may even consider an old trick where you add a piece of electrical tape to act as a grip and buffer to hold with light torque.

Best smile

Did he say it was more about reciever dimensions that was causing misalignment, because one would think that the Talleys being machined on cnc machinery that they would be extemely true!

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Never lapped a ring in my life. Never had a problem either.


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Yes, not only can there be tolerance stacking with the receiver mounting holes to the axis of the barrel, their can be tolerance stacking between the fit of the ring base to receiver top. The tolerances can stack up quickly to bind the mounting.

As a recent example, he took one of my out of the box new rifles and found that the factory scope mount holes were not in perfect alignment. He also took a brand new set of Talley LW ringmounts and found that they were not in perfect alignment. The two combined with a brand new out of the box gold rind LEU and only had approx 10% aligned surface contact period. Without any lapping, the cobination would bind badly. In this case, the mount holes were made straight, the ringmounts were made to perfectly fit the rifle, and the rings were lapped for a correctly aligned surface contact of the scope tube. When everything was mounted and torqued to spec, everything worked exactly as spec. Had I not at least lapped the combination, I would have stressed the scope tube and may have damaged it enought to cause a stiff power ring and poor tracking.

YMMV, but I've never seen a box stock production combination result in better than 60% alignment of the surface contact area. The worst combination I ever experienced was the most recent above, and that was using Talleys on a factory rifle.

Best smile


Last edited by GaryVA; 07/01/11.

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Very interesting..thanks!

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GaryVa...makes a ton of sense to me. Thanks for sharing!


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Rifles and rings are apparently made using hatchets, hand drills and cutting torches because modern CNC equipment can easily hold tolerances of .0001" and better.
It's a piece of cake to align 4 holes within .001" of a datum line.


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No, don't bother lapping Talleys...they are perfect. whistle:

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