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Originally Posted by Kenneth
Safari, I respect your experience and I will slight none of it. So just for conversation,

As for the .340, you are a person who can apparently handle such a beast, Would you agree this is more energy/recoil than most can shoot accurately? And yet a Guide recommends this round for long range?

Would you agree a .340 is much heavier than you would "prefer" to carry?

I find it ironic that my buddy Bill's .300 'bee has the most missed/wounded Elk of our group. kinda hard to deliver an accurate shot when your wondering if your about to join the .300 club, again.



Kenneth, to begin with, I so appreciate a thread response that is thoughtful and allows for differring opinions yet still chanllenges a thought or point. Nothing at all wrong with offering a different POV, challenging a point etc. when done correctly and with space given for other POV's. I have doen the same with posts from Boxer aka Big Stick even though his views or opinions and mine are quite different. Same with others who prefer things different from what I like or prefer. Well done, I wish others would learn from your post.

To answer your questions and points.... I agree that the various 300's and up can be difficult for some to master. Oft times this comes, as I see it, from those who shhot too little in the offseason, have rifles that are too light for the power level chambered in, or have rifles and or stocks that are ill fitting. As an example not ALL body types respond well to teh 'classic' stock design that some all knowing typwriter evangalist once declared as "the best" for handling recoil for any and all shooters. Such is simply not the case. A hunter of any big game should not - cannot is maybe a better way of putting it - go and buy whatever 300-338 big gun he thinks is a good one or that his friends like or suggest, mount a scope, buy some ammo, sight it in and then go hunting. For these chaps, a standard caliber is going to be somewhat better but STILL not a good plan unless shots are kept to moderate ranges and un rushed. The ranch I spoke of was more of a sniping spot than a hunting spot. Vantage points were long known, as were the patterns of migration so shooters could set up with rests etc. most of the hunters if not all were xperienced long range rifleman who shot thier 300-338 cal fast rifels quite well. Kinda the same crowd every year ntil the lease was lost. I really miss that place.... Anyway, longer shots should only be taken by those who practice same, not just 100 yard sighters iners who use charts and a prayer to lob a shell into a distant unsuspecting Elk or other animal. Most who practice these shots know what rifles they can shoot well or cannot.

My 340 weighs about 10lbs all ready to hunt. For some, this would be a major PITB, but for others such a rifle is quite allright. I have packed it and an equally heavy model 70 Classic in 300RUM all over the elk mountains and rocky hilss of southern Africa on some long stalks and hound chases and I do (or did, before my recent illnesses) just fine.

Short version, pracitce and hunt with what YOU like, can carry, and can shoot well. Then limityour shots to the greatest distance that YOU know you can hit well at. As an example, I do not shoot enough of well enough to shoot past 500 yards so that is my limit. I have two good hunting buddies who can hit well at 700 and I have seen them make clean kills out at those ranges when I did not and would not even try. Know yourself, your rifle, your abilities and stay within the limits that you set for youreslef in the offseason out of sportsmanship and respect for the game sought. At the same time, shoot the biggest, fastest rifle you cvan handle well, also out fo respect for the same game and wanting to make the cleanest possible fastest kill. It is just a plain fact that an elk shot at 400 yards is going to be hit harder and travle less distance if punched ith a still quickly stepping 225-250gr 33 cal bullet than if hit with a 27-28 caliber bullet that is just ambling along and barely penetrates one lung.

Last edited by safariman; 11/08/11. Reason: wrong criedit given had to change it

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Thanks for suggestions

Pretty certain I want at least a 30 cal and 200g bullet

Is that much needed no but with tags taking years to draw why risk it

Plus they always arent standing broadside sitting still so I want something to knock them hard.

My 260 isn't for sale it worked wonderfully but not what I would want to take on a 8 plus year wait tag

I'm going to run some numbers right now the 300 win mag is leadin the way


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screw it. go 300 rum.
if you don't reload, remington makes 3 power levels of factory ammo for it.
30-06/300 win. mag/and full blown 300 rum.

that should cover all you need.
i am running 165 grainers outta mine over 3500 fps.
shoots real flat.

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Originally Posted by safariman



#2 If you stay with a 30/06 based action, I would just go 30/06 and run 168gr Barnes TTSX's at about 2900fps. Flat shooting, accurate and deadly


YUP.

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so why isnt anyone using a 50bmg? It has all the range and stopping power you can ask for.

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If it were mine, I would run with a .30-06 built light weight. I would also consider upgrading the magnum action and building a light weight 7mm Rem Mag. Those are two projects I still have on my books. I would run them with a hunter style stock from McMillan as well. I like the palm swell and the monte carlo cheek piece.

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i just might get my barrett up n runnin with 750 gr. a max's and do so.
would love to see what a 700 yard plus hit would look like !

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A 270 WSM or a 300 WSM would do the trick nicely and be able to build something light and handy.

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35 whelan

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"
"My 340 weighs about 10lbs all ready to hunt. For some, this would be a major PITB,"

We do agree on most things here, especially the 10 lb thingy,your into more of a workout than I am. But in certain situations(posted or horses)I can see 10lbs as doable.

Well played...........

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I'd consider an '06 AI if you want to bridge the performance and recoil differences between the '06 and .300 mags and it'll work on the action you already have. I think that'd be pretty nice with a 25" barrel if that's what you really want to run.

Everyone has an opinion. I would say none are absolutely wrong, and until you specify how you hunt, none can be said to be best for you, either. Being happy with your equipment is probably more important than the specific equipment you select.

Tom


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ShootOne,

FWIW- I've contemplated this 'problem' in the past, and my relatively new 'go-to' elk rifle is the one I recently put together.

My criteria were:
Enough energy to be very effective at ranges out to 400 yards,
sub-MOA accuracy,
Moderate (not lightweight), which for me means around 8 lbs. all up,
Moderate recoil.

What I put together is this:

Weatherby Vanguard short action, with 24" Pac Nor barrel in 270 WSM. This action feeds slicker than any other rifle I own.
McMillan Edge Sako Hunter stock, bedded and free floated
Timney trigger
Talley LW mounts
Leupold VX3 3.5-10x40 CDS scope
140 gr. Accubond bullets driven at 3270 fps.

Weight all up with this setup is around 8 lbs. Accuracy is way sub-moa, and with a Pachmayr Decellerator pad on the McMillan, recoil is negligible. This rig balances well, carries well, and with the high BC Accubond, is a great long range shooter with minimal wind drift.

BTW- energy with this load is over 2100 ft-lbs. at 400 yards, enough smack for the biggest of elk.
I also believe that if on a combo elk-deer hunt, or elk-deer-antelope safari, you would be hard pressed to come up with a better rifle/bullet setup.

I also have a Weatherby Mk V .300 in my gun safe, which arguably is a better choice for elk. It also weighs more, has more recoil and noise, and is longer, with its long action and 26" barrel.


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My oldest son, a friend of his and myself spent last week looking for elk. Didn't get a shot at one but we were carrying a 270 Win and a 280AI, both with 140TSX's and I carried a Kimber in 338 Fed with 200 gr Fusions,...didn't feel like we were undergunned at all. I've only shot elk with a 300 Win before but it's not really required.


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Originally Posted by Kenneth
Dink, point taken. If your another one of the guys who can handle the recoil of a mag and still shoot just as accurate then go for it.

But every time I'm around people who cant shoot it's apparent their fearful of the kick their about to receive.

I've seen/heard it time after time.

A person who can shoot/afford/handle long range practice with an '06 is likely going to be a killing machine,

A person who flinches when he pulls the trigger on his Mag is just fooling himself, and his success rate will show it.


I too have seen alot of guys like this with thier new magnum rifles. I believe though that these same guys would be bad shots with any centerfire rifle. They are trying to buy skill by using the latest and greatest cartridge which usually says magnum on it.

I think anyone that can shoot/handle a 30-06 can shoot any magnum rifle up to .338 winchester. They want to be a good shot and will be a good shot with whatever rifle cartridge they decide to use.

There is no secret to shooting magnum rifles well. All it takes is someone that has the "want to" and not afraid of burning a few pounds of powder.

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The OP says he already has a "rock #3".....what caliber is the barrel? or did I miss something here?




The 280 Remington is overbore.

The 7 Rem Mag is over bore.
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Stock is inletted for a rock 3 no barrel on hand

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I'd buy a Rock #2 contour in 30 cal with an 11 twist, cut at 23" and roll. I like having some freefloat and that #2 would work fine. 168 tsx, 180 bt, 180 partition or 180 sierra. Ton of good bullet options.

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Using what you already have on hand I would get a 23" #3 Rock in 338-06 and run 210gr Partitions.

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Originally Posted by safariman

#1 No on the muzzle brake. Damaging to the ears and a PITB to try to wear hearing protection when hunting in all types of weather. BTDT, bad idea all the way around

#2 If you stay with a 30/06 based action, I would just go 30/06 and run 168gr Barnes TTSX's at about 2900fps. Flat shooting, accurate and deadly



Agree completely on #1.

#2 is for sure in my top 3 choices, which are 270, 280 or 'o6.

Kilt an elk of 2 & more with a 270 than anything else.......works fine if you can shoot halfway decent & use good bullets. Same for the 280 & o6.

Elk are not bulletproof & magnums are just not required; having said that, nothing wrong with any of them if you like them & can shoot them..........but if you need a brake on one, then, IMO, it's too much gun for you.

Barrel length in any of the above is fine in 22"; 24 if you like it & in magnums.......not fond of anything longer.

YMMV

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Originally Posted by pointer
'Twer it me with the same components, I'd build a 30-06 and shoot 200gr Accubonds through it. I think that'd make a very nice elk rifle.



If you are recoil shy, I'd go this route. If not, go a 300 WSM shooting 180/200 Nosler Partitions/Accubonds. I'd also vote for the Winchester M70 Extreme in 300 WSM. Run 65 gr H4350 under a 180 Partition and you golden. Recoil isn't a big step up from a 30-06. The Extreme weighs less than 8 lbs with Talleys and 3-9x40 Leupie. Having carried mine for a week this past Colorado elk season, it was not burdensome and feels right.


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