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I am slightly customizing my Classic stainless M707mmRM. I am putting it into a winlite (McMillan) stock, and would like to install one piece bottom metal. I am looking at PT&G products, that sell steel, stainless and aluminum versions. I intend to cerakote the rig in a dark color. Any performance improvements, other then weight, for choosing one material over the others?


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Tom
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I've used the PT&G Model 70 bottom metal and the differences are common to the material used: CM is available in blued or can be blued to a high polished finish, the stainless is just that made of stainless and the aluminum is the least durable, most impervious to the elements and significantly the lightest. I've swapped the factory 2 pc bottom metal on a couple of Model 70s for the PT&G aluminum floorplate and just emailed Ryan about returning a McMillan to have the bottom reinletted for another swap. The PT&G is a well fitted piece that is plenty durable and substantially lighter than an all steel unit. For under $100 it makes a lot of sense IMO. It is a little large than the factory metal so you'll need to include that in your order with McMillan to get the stock correctly inletted, otherwise its a nobrainer.


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I used a MRC stainless steel unit just b/c it was my only "cost effective" SS option out there at the time. Works great.


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If I were going to cerokote a rifle then I'd use the aluminum bottom metal. No reason to carry around more weight than you have to in my opinion, I can't see that it'd make any functional difference.

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Anybody know the actual weight difference between the aluminum and steel?

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Originally Posted by 406_SBC
I've used the PT&G Model 70 bottom metal and the differences are common to the material used: CM is available in blued or can be blued to a high polished finish, the stainless is just that made of stainless and the aluminum is the least durable, most impervious to the elements and significantly the lightest. I've swapped the factory 2 pc bottom metal on a couple of Model 70s for the PT&G aluminum floorplate and just emailed Ryan about returning a McMillan to have the bottom reinletted for another swap. The PT&G is a well fitted piece that is plenty durable and substantially lighter than an all steel unit. For under $100 it makes a lot of sense IMO. It is a little large than the factory metal so you'll need to include that in your order with McMillan to get the stock correctly inletted, otherwise its a nobrainer.


I did the exact same thing on my 2 M70's. Put them in McEdges, used the aluminum PTG bottom metal, Talley lighweights, and Leupie 3-9x40's. Both weigh a few ounces over 7.5 lbs. The fit/finish on the PTG is very good and is a true drop in unit. I 'played' with the McEdge a bit to get the bottom metal seated uniformly all the way around but it was minor fitting. All told, I love the M70 Featherweight seated in an Edge with PTG bottom metal.


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I like the PT&G Aluminum... SUPER light, nicely made.


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I weighed the stainless steel FP & TG on my M70, SA Classic at just under 8 ozs. Really need to change it out. E

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IIRC, my SA M70 PT&G aluminum was 2.2 oz's.


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Was the 2.2 only the floorplate, or did it also include the triggerguard?

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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
Was the 2.2 only the floorplate, or did it also include the triggerguard?


Includes both. I know it was under 2.5 oz's, just can't recall the exact number.


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Thanks for the information - I'm going to go with the Aluminum version. Also going to swap to Talley lightweight scope mounts. Any thoughts on going to 8X40 screws on those?


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Tom
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Tom, I've never had an issue with standard base screws on the M70 w/ Talley Lwt's... I'd hold the conversion in reserve in case you get a buggered base hole.

Me, I just JB Weld the base (including the base screws) right to the receiver top. Clean up with Q-Tips, and acetone.

Like having a monolithic base... won't break lose ever.

To remove, pop the action out of the stock and kiss the rings with a Benzomatic torch... JB's is a relatively "soft" epoxy (which is why I like it for this application), and they'll pop right off and screws will back out. But there shouldn't be a need to remove them, ever.



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Does anyone know the difference in the inlet required for Williams bottom metal and the PT&G?

Last edited by learning; 11/21/11.
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Originally Posted by learning
Does anyone know the difference in the inlet required for Williams bottom metal and the PT&G?


It is the same.

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Does anyone know how much Mcmillan charges to re-inlet for the PTG aluminum bottom metal? I have a Mcmillan hunter's edge inletted for the factory bottom metal and I might swap it out for the PTG aluminum unit. I'd like the inletting properly adjusted, meaning not by me with a dremal tool and chisel but by mcmillan on their machinery.

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I have swapped factory 1 piece and Williams 1 piece out of the same inlet by McMillan. Shouldn't have to modify it at all.

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Originally Posted by Huntr
I have swapped factory 1 piece and Williams 1 piece out of the same inlet by McMillan. Shouldn't have to modify it at all.


Mine's the two piece and I believe you have to modify the inletting for that.

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Then you will indeed need it to be inletted for the 1 piece.

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Originally Posted by Crow hunter
Does anyone know how much Mcmillan charges to re-inlet for the PTG aluminum bottom metal? I have a Mcmillan hunter's edge inletted for the factory bottom metal and I might swap it out for the PTG aluminum unit. I'd like the inletting properly adjusted, meaning not by me with a dremal tool and chisel but by mcmillan on their machinery.
PM sent.


Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Suck bullets simply suck.

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