Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades ideal hunting knife???

As usual Walker makes an excellent point here. I love Dozier's but I with there was a small choil to at least separate the cutting edge from the Ricasso. I prefer the cutting edge to always be separated from the thicker part of the blade.
IMHO a Ricasso should either be small like Gene's or Large enough to comfortably extend your first finger in front of the guard so as to shorten leverage stroke for more control. With a finger width ricasso IMO the blade should extend far enough downward or be rounded in back to protect your finger - like on a Fisk Bowie.............DJ

Do you make upswept skinners?

3 3/4 inch drop point blade(3 1/2 inch min)
8 - 8 1/4 inches overall
1/8 inch (or thinner) D-2 steel @ 61rc
1 inch wide blade with minimal ricasso
handle thickness about 5/8 inches
LH side carry - right hand cross draw
FLAT GROUND AND DISTAL TAPERED!

I gut and bleed out the animal only, then take
it to a meat processor! My knives are only used for
cutting. I'm with A.G. Russel, thinner is better!

I have found few knifemakers who want to make such
a knife? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Gene Ingram makes pretty close,
but I prefer a slightly larger handle than he makes.

Someone said it best, Get Gene to make the blade and
Bob Dozier to make the handle! Bob's kydex model A
crossdraw sheath is tops! Gene's leather sheath is as good
as anyone's!

Handle material I like for lookers is premium stabilized wood
and smooth bone.

Handle material for a "using" knife, I prefer beadblasted canvas micarta combined with a four finger cutout.

Between the 4 semi guards made by the handle shape, and the beadblasted canvas micarta, yoiu have one very non
slippery knife! Easy to control upside down too, if needed.

Yeah, I know. D'Alton Holder! I can afford his knives,
but I'm way to cheap to ever use one afield! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

Attachment would be perfect for me if it was flat ground, distal
tapered and 1/8 inch thick. D-2 @ 61rc. Handle should
be brown canvas micarta! It is 1 1/16 inches wide.

How about a modified Queen in 440C? Stabilized
handle, brass guard and pins. Blade length 3 1/2 inches
and 1/8 inch thick. 1 inch wide.

Here is an "alaskan bwana" which used to be a folder.

I don't like folding knives but liked this blade pretty well
even though it was hollow ground. It is really thin since
I hand sanded out all the rougher grind lines with 400 grit wet/dry.

I diassembled the folder, recut the blade where it was in the handle and welded on an extension after putting the brass guard in place. Cutting edge goes right up to the guard.

Gorilla glued a three part handle material and freestyled the
handle profile to fit my smallish hand.

Sanded the handle to a 600 grit finish and finished up with
steel wool. Sent the knife to Bob Dozier and had him make
a model A sheath in LH carry, right hand draw out of kydex.

This thing is like a razor blade!

It is my favorite knife for deer hunting so far. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

WMacD ........... You don't want one of those things, do you ??!!??








It appears to have little or no distal taper! ... I doubt that you could cut anything with it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />






<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Walker, distal taper is not that important to me on a short knife. On this upswept skinner, a large amount of metal was removed to create the sharpened edge. Tapering what little is left of the unground blade would provide no real benefit and only weaken the entire tip area. On the contrary, with a full tang, this knife might be unbalanced and require the tang to be tapered to move the weight forward to the blade. There's a lot that goes into the execution of a good design.

Unlike you guys so concerned about distal taper, I use the sharpened edge of the blade to do my cutting, not the spine. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

What a concept! Boy, ya learn something every day! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I perfer a reverse Distal taper with a hollow ground convex edge with a parallel ricasso slighty shorter then blade length divided by 3 and mulitplied by .862.

http://us.st3.yimg.com/store1.yimg.com/I/botach_1861_255347043

Ive found the cold steel master hunter to be a very good value

So, you're an Ingram's man, then?

sometimes. more of a shortened green river with a 41/4 blade. I much prefer a ricasso with a dropped choil on a hunter. It works for me anyway. okie

Steelhead, based upon the information you provided, I found the knife that met your criteria. It turns out to be a rather large bird knife, about a foot long so to speak. I thought it odd at first, but when I saw the end of the handle, I just knew it was meant for you. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Now I get the feeling you guys aren't being serious.


WMacD ......... Is that talonite?

That's going to leave a mark. Thanks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

No, it's Meleagris gallopavo.

Steelhead ....... Can you help me with this one? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />


On second thought, never mind. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Okie, these are my newest fixed blades:

WMacD; those are some sweet knives. what wood?
You the TN McD?

The knife maker is Frank Chikey from GA. Ironwood bolsters on both, stabilized Redwood burl handle on the small knife on the left:




Stabilized Maple burl handle on the knife on the right: