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Joined: Sep 2006
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Well if I'd a poured it, it would have had a slope! Don't know which way...but it would have sloped somewhere...cos I pour like crap!


"It's a source of great pride, that when I google my name, I find book titles and not mug shots." Daniel C. Chamberlain

Joined: Jan 2006
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Call me stupid, but why can't he just build a "speed bump" that the door sits on when closed? Woubn't this be easier than grinding?

Joined: Mar 2005
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The tsunami seal kit or one of the like will fix your problem for sure. Just make sure the floor is dry and install/align it per the directions and you'll be happy.

Have had ours done for going on 8+ years. It gets run over by the lawn tractor , farm tractor, 1 ton diesels trucks and has yet to lift or fail.

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Originally Posted by NathanL
I had the same problem, instead of one of those kits I split a piece of unistrut on the bandsaw and expoxied it to the floor and bolted it down. Door fit right down into the channel it made and only stuck up about 1/2" or less and the water quit coming in. Took 15 minutes tops.
Don't try that where it freezes. The water in the channel will freeze and you won't get the door open until May. My father in law bought a house that had a groove cut in the concrete for the door to drop into. We assumed it was to prevent leaves, etc, from blowing under it. It would get water in it and freeze the door shut.


β€œIn a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.”
― George Orwell

It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
Joined: Dec 2005
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thank you for the replies everyone! we are installing a 50' gutter and downspouts on the eave. also installing the tsunami seal.

if that doesn't do the trick, we'll grind some concrete.

-brenda

IC B2

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