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He should see if it shoots before spending a bunch of money on it. If he's going to do a crossbolt and some bedding he'll have like $20 into it and a lot of time. I'd chance it for $20.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Nsaqam, pal, utal708: thanks for all the input, gent! I really appreciate your help. With regard to the barrel, I do think it makes sense to free float it just for consistency in point of aim even in wet weather, etc (this won't be only for fair weather). No matter what the barrel channel will have to be opened up at the end to take off the pressure point at the front of the fore end (see below pic). But I think it still probably makes sense to re-bed it more thoroughly (tang, etc.). ![[Linked Image]](http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/dclaytonv/Picture018.jpg) I also definitely want to know why it cracked. Especially because it doesn't seem as though the rifle has been shot all that much--as I mentioned there's some copper fouling, but the bore itself looks great, and although I know there are folks who don't use scopes, this rifle doesn't look to me at though it's ever had a scope mounted (not even a hint of a mark where the screws for the bases are). And the stock is in such good shape. Obviously not definitive, but taken all together it inclines me to think it hasn't been used all that much. So it's strange that it cracked (after all, it's a .30-06, not a .458 Win Mag). I don't have huge amounts of time, but I have more of that than I do money!  (And I have time in that I don't need it for tomorrow of the day after, but for the long haul.) I'm sure a good smith could diagnose and remedy the problem, but that could start to get expensive, so insofar as it's possible I'd like to do things myself. Do you all have any suggestions on how best to tell if the bedding is at fault? Or given the suspicions about the bedding, should I just try to take up as much of it as possible and move on? I definitely don't mind putting in a crossbolt: $8 (or $16) and a lot of time is about my speed! Nsaqam (or others), I'd appreciate if you have any recommendations as regards installing it. I should also mention that the trigger on the rifle is *great*--crisp, and right about 3 lbs, which is just where I want it. Another endearing quality, as far as I'm concerned. As regards a general update, I realized that I neglected to mention a couple of important things: one is that I received the dies, bullets, and brass that David Walter sent me. I'm looking forward to developing a couple of loads for the rifle with those. Also, I haven't yet mounted the Leup. that Steve Timm so generously gave me, because the bases I wanted to order were out of stock. I'm waiting on those to come back in before I can actually mount the scope.
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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I can't wait to see some groups!
EVERYBODY is pro-gun, some just don't know it. When an anti-gun person is in trouble, the first thing they do is call 911 and demand that they send somebody with a gun!
"Turdlike".... in record time
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Actually, I can't wait to make some groups!
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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...I definitely don't mind putting in a crossbolt... I'd appreciate if you have any recommendations as regards installing it. Yeah, don't.
"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon
"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg
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Nsaqam, pal, utal708: thanks for all the input, gent! I really appreciate your help. With regard to the barrel, I do think it makes sense to free float it just for consistency in point of aim even in wet weather, etc (this won't be only for fair weather). No matter what the barrel channel will have to be opened up at the end to take off the pressure point at the front of the fore end (see below pic). But I think it still probably makes sense to re-bed it more thoroughly (tang, etc.). I also definitely want to know why it cracked. Especially because it doesn't seem as though the rifle has been shot all that much--as I mentioned there's some copper fouling, but the bore itself looks great, and although I know there are folks who don't use scopes, this rifle doesn't look to me at though it's ever had a scope mounted (not even a hint of a mark where the screws for the bases are). And the stock is in such good shape. Obviously not definitive, but taken all together it inclines me to think it hasn't been used all that much. So it's strange that it cracked (after all, it's a .30-06, not a .458 Win Mag). I don't have huge amounts of time, but I have more of that than I do money! (And I have time in that I don't need it for tomorrow of the day after, but for the long haul.) I'm sure a good smith could diagnose and remedy the problem, but that could start to get expensive, so insofar as it's possible I'd like to do things myself. Do you all have any suggestions on how best to tell if the bedding is at fault? Or given the suspicions about the bedding, should I just try to take up as much of it as possible and move on? I definitely don't mind putting in a crossbolt: $8 (or $16) and a lot of time is about my speed! Nsaqam (or others), I'd appreciate if you have any recommendations as regards installing it. I should also mention that the trigger on the rifle is *great*--crisp, and right about 3 lbs, which is just where I want it. Another endearing quality, as far as I'm concerned. As regards a general update, I realized that I neglected to mention a couple of important things: one is that I received the dies, bullets, and brass that David Walter sent me. I'm looking forward to developing a couple of loads for the rifle with those. Also, I haven't yet mounted the Leup. that Steve Timm so generously gave me, because the bases I wanted to order were out of stock. I'm waiting on those to come back in before I can actually mount the scope. A better (IMO) alternative to the stock bolt from Brownell's is a 50 cent stainless nut and bolt from any hardware store. The nutted bolt is inletted across the crack in a dumbbell shape recess and permanently embedded when the action is epoxy bedded into the stock. Jack Lott (who developed the .458 Lott) published an article on why wood stocks split and how he prevented/fixed stocks using epoxy bedded hidden stock bolts. I've used his method to repair a cracked 9.3 Husqvarna and .375 HH Sako and so far, so good after several hundred rounds of near to and max power ammo through both You should be able to find the article online. It is a worthwhile read.
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That's an interesting idea, carbon12--thanks. I'll dig around for that article. I'm still trying to visualize what you mean though--you don't by any chance have a pic or a diagram that shows what you're talking about, do you? Although I guess if I manage to find that article all will be revealed...
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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I am mailing you a complete set of mounts, as new, Redfield two-piece bases and Leupold rings. I just have been delayed a bit with finding them as my stuff is packed due to house repairs.
I was going to PM you on this today if you were wondering what had happened, but, if you prefer other mounts, Talleys are best for your uses, just let me know.
I am happy to give these to you, but, I understand that you may prefer another type of mount and will do whatever you prefer.
God Bless and keep you, Brother Daniel, your friend in BC-Canada-Dewey
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Thanks for the update, Dewey! PM inbound...
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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Nice find an a darn good price, evenwith that cracked stock which is an easy fix. If it wee me, I would shoot th rifle first before free floating the barrel. I've owned two mark X rifles in the past, an Alaskan in .375 H&H and another in .300 Win. Mag. Both rifles were very accurate with the .375 doing an anch on average with the .300 gr. Winchester Silvertip ammo and the .300 averaging one inch with factory ammo aand groups as small as .75" with my handloads. Neither barrel was free floated.
Dunno if I can accurately describe that fix for the stock but basically you chisel out a groove for the bolt with nut to fit with a little space to spare, put in some Accraglass bedding, insert the bolt and fill up the slot so that the bolt is covered. Quite simple really. I think you'll really like that rifle once you get it squared away.
Paul B.
Our forefathers did not politely protest the British.They did not vote them out of office, nor did they impeach the king,march on the capitol or ask permission for their rights. ----------------They just shot them.
MOLON LABE
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That's an interesting idea, carbon12--thanks. I'll dig around for that article. I'm still trying to visualize what you mean though--you don't by any chance have a pic or a diagram that shows what you're talking about, do you? Although I guess if I manage to find that article all will be revealed... My Google-fu sucks. Apparently, more today that usual. Jack Lott's diagram of how he installed hidden stock bolts was even posted here on 24hrcf not too long ago. Basically, pick out a #6 or #8 SS bolt long enough to fit across the stock inletting where you want to install a stock bolt. Screw on a nut on the end opposite the head. You can crush the nut onto the treads with a hammer if you want to lock the nut onto the threads although it is not really necessary. Hog out the wood so that the nutted bolt will just slip into it's slot. Try and take out the minimum amount of wood possible. The shape of the hogged out space should be dumbbell shape to fit the nutted screw and to form a mechanical-structural lock once the epoxy fully cures. A Dremel tool with a small burr bit works brilliantly for this procedure. I like Marine-tex epoxy (grey, not white) for bedding rifles. I also like to fix the crack with epoxy as a separate step before installing the hidden stock bolt.
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Carbon12 & PJGunner, is this sort of the concept? (It's not precise, but just to get the point across...) The black shape is suppose to represent what would be milled out, and take the screw and nut... ![[Linked Image]](http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/dclaytonv/1.png)
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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Close enough. The bolt does not have to be overly robust in that position in the stock. It has the same role as re-bar in cement. A #6 is enough and will allow you to leave a goodly amount of intact wood
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Given his limited tooling I also advised him that carbon12's idea is easily the best bet for him.
Great suggestion sir.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Alright, so carbon12's (and JG's) idea it will be! As nsaqam points out, it will be the easiest for me to manage with my limited tools. Also, nsaqam seconded Utah's point about diagnosing the original cause of the crack, and made a great observation. Check out the magazine box (see below pic). Safariman mentioned to me earlier that the magazine inlet should have 1/8" behind the magazine or the mag could crack it on recoil, but I hadn't yet looked over my pictures to see what the clearance actually was. Nsaqam pointed out that the problem is the angled wood just behind the mag, which actually touches it. That is definitely the problem. In fact, I'm sure that the angled surface there makes it worse even than just a flat surface in that it actually drives the stock apart from within rather than just impacting it. I'll definitely have to fix that! Actually, when I took the rifle apart on Sunday I didn't take out the bottom metal because it was so tightly stuck in there--I just figured I'd leave it alone for the moment, since I had seen what I wanted to (i.e., the bedding, the barrel inlet, and the condition of the stock). Now I see that I've got to get that off and get in there better... ![[Linked Image]](http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/dclaytonv/2.png)
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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Paul, I forgot to mention, but I also got the same advice you just gave about not free floating the barrel earlier from safariman, so I'm definitely rethinking that idea. I guess as long as the stock (forearm especially included) is really well sealed, the point of aim should remain pretty consistent, and as I mentioned way back at the very beginning of the thread, I don't need gilt edged accuracy...
Last edited by dclayton; 04/23/12.
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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Guys, I have one other question that I was just talking about with kutenay: he has a set of Leupold QRW rings that he's offered me.
From looking online and at Leupold's "Base Fit & Ring Height Information", they don't make QRW bases for the Interarms Mark X. However, they also say that "QRW rings are engineered to retrofit any existing cross-slot base, thus converting existing mount bases into a quick-detach system." So it seems then that they would work just fine with the Warne Maxima bases I'm getting, right? Any thoughts?
I appreciate your input...
"And the Word became flesh, and dwelt among us." Jn 1:14
"The expense is reckoned, the enterprise is begun; it is of God; it cannot be withstood. So the faith was planted: So it must be restored." -St. Edmund Campion (+1581)
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I agree with Utah 708 about finding the cause before doing any fixes. Sounds like you've done that. If the route you choose to make the fix involves getting glue/epoxy into that crack you can use some fishing line like dental floss to pull the glue/epoxy. I put a little dopp of glue/epoxy on top of the crack and then pull the line back and forth workinig the glue into the crack. In my case I just put a padded clamp on it and the epoxy job was good enough to hold for my repair project. Good luck and please let us see your final repair. CH
The older I get the better I was.
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Guys, I have one other question that I was just talking about with kutenay: he has a set of Leupold QRW rings that he's offered me.
From looking online and at Leupold's "Base Fit & Ring Height Information", they don't make QRW bases for the Interarms Mark X. However, they also say that "QRW rings are engineered to retrofit any existing cross-slot base, thus converting existing mount bases into a quick-detach system." So it seems then that they would work just fine with the Warne Maxima bases I'm getting, right? Any thoughts?
I appreciate your input... Yep, they'll work just fine together.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but I do not see how the magazine could have caused the crack in the stock from recoil. When the rifle recoils, the magazine will try to go forward, not back. Perhaps the inletting of the wood on the sides of the action between the mag box and trigger area was a bit narrow. I don't know, but surely it was not from the mag box coming back from recoil. Just say'n. RJ
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