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I need some Hi-Boy help on a barn find.
1976 F-250 4x4 Auto. 1 owner. 89,000 miles.
I took off the rear quarter panel chrome strip in the wheel well and it looks good, no rust.
Both rear corners, not so good.
All original except 390 instead of 360.
Normal dings of a farm pickup.
Box interior looks suprisingly good.
Tailgate top I could put on an aluminum strip.
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man, that looks like a pretty sweet truck, what kind of questions or what is it i could help with?



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I am in no way a body guy, but I love the looks of this era Fords. I don't want a show truck, just a good looking driver/hunting rig.
Can I repair rear corners?
The old farmer was saying to buy a complete box, as a fair amount of them got taken off and made into flatbeds around here and a guy may find one.
No idea of what the cost of a box would be, if found.

I am thinking hubs up front. What do you think?

Was hoping it was a manuel, but what tranny is in a 250? Still a c6?

It has been sitting for 5 years, should I take the carb off and rebuild? or do you try just seeing how she does? It does run.


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I wouldn't do a whole box, I'd just buy the lower rear corners from someplace like LMC truck.

cut the bad stuff out, cut matching pieces out of the stamped repair pieces and weld them in.

You mentioned hubs in front? Are you thinking the lockouts are bad or?/ wheel bearings? U-joints?

there are 2 diaphrams in the carb that dry out and leak. the one on the front of the carb (assuming it's a ford 2 barrel) is the accelerator pump (squirt gun for gas) it squirts a shot of gas down the carb throat on quick acceleration. second one and not as well known is the power valve which would be inside the square cap on the front bottom side of the carb. if this leaks, it just leaks gas into your engine, you won't see this leak, it will just make the truck run rich at idle and drain your float bowl when the truck sits for a day or 2.

those 2 things, the seat and needle, and the choke pull off vac diaphram are the most common things to go after with the carb.

A carb kit aint a bad idea, not all kits come with a power valve though, so make sure you ask for that in the kit.

Trans should be a C6

3 driveshafts in that thing so you have lots of u-joints grin



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Originally Posted by northern_dave
I wouldn't do a whole box, I'd just buy the lower rear corners from someplace like LMC truck.

cut the bad stuff out, cut matching pieces out of the stamped repair pieces and weld them in.

You mentioned hubs in front? Are you thinking the lockouts are bad or?/ wheel bearings? U-joints?

there are 2 diaphrams in the carb that dry out and leak. the one on the front of the carb (assuming it's a ford 2 barrel) is the accelerator pump (squirt gun for gas) it squirts a shot of gas down the carb throat on quick acceleration. second one and not as well known is the power valve which would be inside the square cap on the front bottom side of the carb. if this leaks, it just leaks gas into your engine, you won't see this leak, it will just make the truck run rich at idle and drain your float bowl when the truck sits for a day or 2.

those 2 things, the seat and needle, and the choke pull off vac diaphram are the most common things to go after with the carb.

A carb kit aint a bad idea, not all kits come with a power valve though, so make sure you ask for that in the kit.

Trans should be a C6

3 driveshafts in that thing so you have lots of u-joints grin



Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.
I just got off the phone with him, as he was trying to round up the title.
Title says 1975 not 76. It was ordered from Wendle Ford in Spokane. He wanted factory air, enclosed front end and the auto tranny.

He also said he had put Warn hubs on it years ago and took them off. (he still has the hubs in the shop). grin (as you know farmers don't throw anything away).
I will leave the warn hubs off.

Thanks for the carb info, we have an old boy in town here who's dad owned the Ford garage way back when and he loves to work on Ford and only Ford carbs. I'll let him play with it. grin

The fun is just beginning so I'm sure I will be hounding you more and I'll check out LMC for some corners.

Thanks again.


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Those pieces behind the wheels on the box will run you $35 or so from LMC truck. Cab corners will run you $19 (+ shipping for both). If I can put this stuff in, you can do it. I don't have 10% of the talent that ND does and made it look decent.

If you can find a box for $500-600, it's a decent price. Less than that is a good price. If all you have to do is the rockers behind the wheels, I'd skip the box.

Here are a few pics.

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I sitll have to weld on the piece behind the wheel and the cab corners.

This one is pretty bad compatred to what you're looking at! That is a nice rig!

The trim pieces look to be in decent shape even.

I'd have a hard time passing up that truck if the price was in my range. Ok, I lied...I would NOT pass up that truck. smile

Last edited by tzone; 06/28/12.

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Wageslave,

another good place to look for vintage Ford 4x4 stuff is Jeffs Bronco Graveyard. He also has a website by the same name. If you can't find it there, there ain't one. at least that's been my expecience so far.

He will have better drivetrain and suspension parts than LMC and I believe all parts are made in USA, not positive though.

Dave probably has some other body places to look too, but realy I found everything I needed from those two places.


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Originally Posted by tzone
I sitll have to weld on the piece behind the wheel and the cab corners.

This one is pretty bad compatred to what you're looking at! That is a nice rig!


Thanks for the pics and encouragement. I may have to try that. I need the last lower 10% of the bottom corners of both rear fenders. Looks like the truck may have backed into something and that sped up the rust process. Just guessing. The wheel wells look good. I know that when I start tearing it apart I may find more rust. grin
Out here it's pretty dry and when this truck was on the road they had not started spraying calcium chloride in winter yet, so it should not have to much more rust I hope. They spray it alot here now, even in a frost.
It will be a slow, long learning process for me, but I'm looking forward to a after hunting season project. I can just use it till then.
Thanks again.


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Originally Posted by tzone
Wageslave,

another good place to look for vintage Ford 4x4 stuff is Jeffs Bronco Graveyard. He also has a website by the same name. If you can't find it there, there ain't one. at least that's been my expecience so far.

He will have better drivetrain and suspension parts than LMC and I believe all parts are made in USA, not positive though.

Dave probably has some other body places to look too, but realy I found everything I needed from those two places.


Thanks. I knew you guys would be the place to get help.
I'm indebted and we'll be talking. grin


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Back to our regularly scheduled programming after the hijack.

Thanks fellas.


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Those wheels really change the look of the truck. Deffently makes it look tough.

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Originally Posted by wageslave
Back to our regularly scheduled programming after the hijack.

Thanks fellas.


there's no hijack, don't be silly.

What the hell else are we gonna talk about lol!!

You found a GREAT truck there.

I hope we keep some project dialog going on here, it's way fun.

I got my dual exhaust finished up tonight but one of my new hooker headers turbo mufflers has a slappy baffle, piss me off.

And I welded the exhaust together, sonofa...


Oh well.

It's all good.

grin


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Did you get headers too?


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No headers.. i aint a big fan.

Although it's not beyond me to use them...

grin


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Do you think they'd do much for the "M"? I was thinking about getting a set for the 78.

Really, the only thing holding me back is, I'm not sure I can get the mainfold bolts off. I don't want to bust any off. eek


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Well, I could go either way on the headers for these engines. It is a great weight reduction, so if you think about that along with an aluminum intake you really shed some pounds.

The big gains are in the compression ratio and cam timing. TRW makes a forged piston for the 351M that will get you around 8.6:1 without cutting anything off the head. I know there are thinner head gaskets you can get and a little cleanup cut of the head surface will help land you closer to 9:1.

The cam shaft was timed after center with the crank on these from the factory. If you run a modern cam that targets the zero and up RPM range and time it straight up with the crank that's a big gain.

A dual plane aluminum intake like the weiand action plus will also compliment the RPM range that you want to make power with these engines. A 600 CFM square bore carb like a holley or edelbrock (carter AFB) will do nicely. Six of one, half a dozen of the other on the carbs. Although I lean towards the holley i'd take whichever I got the best deal on.

Headers would work well with the above mentioned too.



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Originally Posted by keystoneben
Those wheels really change the look of the truck. Deffently makes it look tough.

I like them too. Would love to have them, but they cost more than the barn truck.
Really look great on yours. Sounds like you are coming along great.


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thanks.


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