Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots No. 1 Trigger Adjustment

Just bought a new No.1. Will the back trigger screw adjust pull weight? The manual says these triggers are not adjustable; yet there appears to be the sear and spring adjustment screws.

The manual is somewhat correct, there is no sear adjustment on the new Ruger # 1 trigger. What you have is a trigger stop screw, and a trigger return spring screw that really does not do much. If you want a better trigger the easy and cheapest way is to buy a Moyers three screw trigger, it's much better than the Ruger two screw trigger. To get better than the Moyers you will have to go with a set trigger, and that's big $$$.
S/S

You sad its is new so I assume it not an early three screw trigger which was adjustable. (The manuals then even had instructions on how to do it!!) Later two screw triggers can be adjusted only by a skilled metal smith -- pro or no -- to break clenaly at 3 lbs. All of mine are. Costs me @ $75 each time but it a great comfort to know almost precisely where a trigger will break on 30 rifles.

1B

SS and 1B pretty much covered it. Here�s a picture of the trigger you have.



Here is a picture of an adjustable 3 screw trigger (it�s a Moyer copy of Ruger�s old trigger but not the No 1's first trigger).



The set trigger that SS mentioned is a Kepplinger and it�s around 270 to 300 bucks these days. Here�s a picture of it.

Moses,
During my apprenticeship with Tom Gillman in Hot Springs, Ar.
I did a Canjar set trigger conversion on my #3 Ruger hornet. It was a project I will never forget, I made all parts by hand, even the set shoe.I had to add the third screw adjustment)I could not get the temper right. It would be fine for maybe 50 shots then would not stay set(so I bought the adjusting screw & spring from Canjar). This may be why Canjar brought out his. I still have it and it is the best I have seen.

We would all be interested in were we could buy a Canjar set trigger today. Do you have a supplier?

Sad to say, old Matt Canjar is gone. I bought the last three # 1 triggers he had about a year ago and used them in my # 1's
S/S

Mickincolo those pics are great (informative) Thanks for the attention. I am not knowledgeable on No.1 triggers. So I guess I need the Smiths help.

Moses,

As pointed out in the above posts(nice pictures by the way), the early No.1 oem triggers(3 screw) and the current oem No.1 triggers(2 screw) vary by the absence of the sear adjustment on the latter. Two and three screw No.1 triggers are taken off rifles every day, so some are around in the gunsmiths' shops.

In the two adjustment(late) trigger, the screws are for overtravel, and for the weight(for lack of better word). The return spring applies tension that has to be overcome to release the hammer/sear engagement.

Any gunsmith can tune a factory early or late trigger. With the latter, one method is to install a pin in the hammer that controls the sear engagement. The pin method is recoverable easily. The hammer is fairly hard material, so one might consider using carbide tooling for the hole, ie centerdrill etc. The pin's standoff is adjusted(filed) until the engagement is achieved that is reqired. Just a method that has been used by gunsmiths for generations; look at the Marlin 39. Just my opinion, I think you might get it done for less than 75 bucks, but good gunsmiths are getting scarcer to find/use; and the cost of insurance/licensing is not getting any easier for them.

If you are considering replacement, the Moyers is basically a 3 screw early style trigger. The old Canjar single set was/is a good trigger in my opinion, but sometimes some relief on the trigger guard is necessary for full release. The Austrian Kleppinger single set, like the old Canjar has a set and non set position, but the Kleppinger is getting up in price(>200 dollars even wholesale). With any trigger update/mod/adjustment, a good gunsmith is the ticket; not a task for the average guy.

If kinda browsing the triggers, one might look at Brownell's for the aftermarket triggers as a beginning look.

FWIW

SS

To bad about Mr. Canjar. He made a good product from what I could see.

Moses

Your welcome, I�m glad you found them helpful.

Mick,
Yes Mr. Canjar did make a fine trigger and they were about half the cost of the Kepplinger. I've installed and used quite a few of them but now there a thing of the past. He made two different # 1 set triggers, one will be scribed S-1 on the side for the older # 1's and the other will be scribed S-2 for the newer # 1's, somewhere I have the serial number range for the different triggers but don't have it handy right now.

I do however like the Kepplinger a bit better because it's easer to set and it's a linkless trigger like the first type Ruger trigger. The Canjar and the Ruger second and third type triggers are the link type and I believe that the more direct trigger to sear contact gives you a better trigger.
S/S

Mick,

In your picture of the Kepp trigger, is that "unset"? If so, would you happen to have a picture of the "set" position?

I had my gunsmith install a Kepplinger Single Set Trigger in my Ruger #1 International in 7x57mm and I really like it. He set the regular trigger for about 2.75 lbs and the set trigger is about 6-8 ounces... and crisp with no creep.

The cost? About $260-$275 parts & labor... and well-worth it to me. This Kepplinger Trigger is SOOOOOOOOO much better than the Ruger factory trigger... it's the kind of trigger Ruger SHOULD put in a single shot rifle that has a suggested list price of $1100+ Yankee dollars!!!

But then, it would be $1360, wouldn't it?

The Kepplinger Single Set Trigger is the kind of trigger that a "classic" looking single-shot rifle like the Ruger #1 International (aka "RSI") in the classic 7x57mm cartridge NEEDS to have !~!~!


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

Ron T,
If your really concerned about the "classic look" then I think the RSI in 7 X 57 should have a DST not a SST. I've seen some pictures of # 1's with DST's and am trying to track down who made them.
S/S

Sorry prostrate8,

I don�t have a picture of it set. I�d take one and post it for you but my camera crapped out and I haven�t replaced it yet.

To set it you put your finger on the back of the trigger and push it forward until it clicks into position. Unset the trigger in the picture (220 Swift 1 V) goes off at around 1 1/2-1 � pounds. Set, it doesn�t register on my RCBS trigger pull scale.

In the unset position the triggers pull weight is dependent on the sear/hammer relationship and not the trigger itself. This particular rifle has a 330-grain speed hammer in it (as mentioned in my �Speed Hammer Blues� thread) and I have the sear/hammer faces honed very smoothly.

The trigger�s set position has an adjustment screw for pull weight but I left it as it came from the factory.

This is a very old thread But Im about to take this on...

Anybody have any newer suggestions?

We've discussed this ad nauseam and there's a current thread that discusses this again. You went to the trouble of resurrecting a thread from 2008. There have been more recent threads including one with an article written by Mule Deer aka Jon Barsness regarding No. 1 trigger adjustment.

The Moyers is a piece of DOGSHIT. Period. Anyone touting it is either an idiot or a shill. Exclamation point.

Installation of a trigger without also polishing the sear engagement surfaces is a BIG waste of time.

The article Bricktop refers to is in the November-December edition of Rifle magazine. Pages 74-75 even have 6 pictures on how to polish the triggers on a # 1.

Am I going to do it? With my four thumbs on each hand?

John also gives probably the best overview you will find in one article on ways to accurize a # 1 and some hints as to which #1s most likely need it and which should not.

Good luck,
1B

"I do however like the Kepplinger a bit better because it's easer to set and it's a linkless trigger like the first type Ruger trigger".

Single Shot, would you happen to have a picture of the "first type" Ruger #1 trigger? This is the first I have ever heard and have never seen a factory linkless Ruger trigger. I am curious to see what one looks like. RJ

You do realize he hasn't posted here in over THREE YEARS, don't you?

This is the so-called "type 1" trigger, only used on very early circa 1967 No. 1s: