Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives po-boy's highboy.

A decent Texas box I've found a guy can get for 6 bills, for a long box.

Good luck with that on a short box. Next one will be a long box unless it has a real good one on it already.

HHmmm......
always thought I needed to see more of MN. then liberalappolis and the Polaris plant................
Someday. Not today.

Actually, I'll probably channel my inner Northern Dave on this box sometime.
I need to learn something in life someday.

Looka here. Passenger side head is off the truck (yes it fought me all da way)

Anyways, I hope these phone pics show how bad the exhaust valves especially, are sucked up into the seats. Badness.







And a look at my cheapo refurb heads.



exhaust valve from cylinder number 3



and the pounded out seat.



A look at the top of the stem for that same valve, me thinks, it stopped spinning completely.

[img]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e...ds/Resampled_2012-08-01_20-05-22_860.jpg[/img]

cylinders look decent, I'm... optimistic.

[img]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e...ds/Resampled_2012-08-01_20-20-51_686.jpg[/img]

Enough for tonight, no hurry.

seriously, my valves are sucked up into the seats so bad... It's no wonder the valve springs were loose! lol!

I had one exhaust manifold bolt I couldn't get on the RH head, so I left it on the head until I got the head out of the truck.

I think I'll remove the LH head with the exhaust manifold attached too. They will be seperate going back on the engine.

Time for headers.

Well, I won't be running tonight.

Freaking distributor is broken.



But I got the heads on and torqued.

Yep, she's broke. They're $47 at Auto Zone. I bought one in May.

I feel your pain

$50 here.
$100 there.
It's only money, I guess.

Bed is on, hitch design complete and pick up more iron tomorrow to finish it and the bang board. D-rings for tiedown points in, need attached.
Old white is coming along.

P.S. His real name is Clint, in honor of his real dad.

I have no idea WTF you guys are talking about, but I'm still digging this whole rebuild thing

See, I grabbed the plastic rotor with the dist still in the engine. I gave a little twist on the rotor with my fingers to test the free movement of the springs in the mechanical advance. With a little twist of my fingers the weakened ... ramp arms for lack of technical name.. snapped free. Later I inspeced and saw that one side had been broken for quite some time. i'm actually lucky I found it now rather than have it break in Feb 10 miles out on a frozen lake in -20 temps.

My timing chain is nice and tight, I was able to turn the crank by hand and watch the cam through the dist hole. No detectable slack in that chain, I was pretty happy to see that.

I might try to pick up a power valve for the carb tonight on the way home and have a dist ordered in to my local parts store for tomorrow morning.

Are you getting a stock dist. or something a little hotter?

Excuse my ignorance...what is a power valve?

I googled it..

power valve.

Stock, but I'll tweak it for exactly the way I want my advance to come in. I'll recurve for what RPM I want my mechanical adv to come in and I'll set a limit as to how much mechanical advance I want to come in. Same with the vac advance, I'll tune that as well.

You have "static" timing, which is your ignition timing at idle engine speed with no vacuum advance. (probably at around 12 BTDC for me)

Then you mechanical advance will bring in another 10 to 15 degrees of advance, you can tune that amount to be whatever you like overall. As well you can change springs and weights so the mechanical advance comes in at higher or lower RPMs.

Finally a vac advance, this is likely to ad an additional 15 degrees of advance to your ignition timing. these ford vac advances of this era where adjustable with a small allen wrench inserted in the vac port, you could turn a screw inside there. You can also modify the linkage arm, create a stop that limits the pull length if you like.

The real bang for your buck in ignition timing isn't always a $300 distributor.

It's old school know how.

The engine is going to have sweet spots for ignition timing throughout the RPM range. identifying those sweet spots and tuning your distributor to accommodate those needs is the key.

It really is a dying art form.

Old school mechanics didn�t think so, it was just second nature for them, but they are few and far between these days.

Dave,

It's fun watching you do all this stuff to your truck. It's coming along very nice. Good job!

Are you going to rebuild the carb? It looks nasty.

+ 1 on distributor tuning.

I had my 1970 340 Cuda dyno-tuned and it was amazing how much low end torque it picked up. They recurved the dist, leaned out the carb and dialed it in purrfect.

I still own a dwell meter for those occasions the allen wrench is needed to go through the window of the GTO's distributor. I'm not sure they even bother teaching that stuff in trade schools these days.

I asked this question on the thread you have going on the HC; - how do you work comfortably on things in the engine compartment in your hiboy?

Comfortably??

Are you [bleep] kidding??

LMAO!!

Maybe 15 years ago it wouldn't have bothered me so much, but I'm really wishing I had taken the hood off the truck before I started this crap.



My 327 in my 66 still has points distributor and I set the dwell with an allen wrench through the side window, with a dwell meter.

Awe, I figure I'll spin a new power valve in there for now, I already replaced the accelerator pump.

Needle and seat are working fine... I'll clean it up and look for any problems.

Dave- I had two endoscopic surgeries lumbar and neck three months ago- even looking under the hood of my F150 and Excursion is painful. They tell me to be patient; it will get better. So far I'm a skeptic.
I just wondered if you crawled in there, did the short ladder, worked through the wheel wells etc.
I remember a discussion long ago on dieselstop where guys were talking up those topside creepers that allow you to work on taller vehicles and saw the northerntool had the collapsible model on sale. Expensive, but maybe less painful.
Jim

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200360239_200360239