Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Muzzleloaders Ramblings of an amateur gun tinkerer

This is my latest project....restocking a Ruger 77/50 inline .50 caliber. This rifle has been great over the years. Accurate and a great pleasure to hunt with. I have used it to kill more deer than I care to try and remember...however the original straight stock has never really appealed to me once I had purchased it.

I figured it was time to put a new piece of wood on it and make the ergonimics of the rifle a little more to my liking. I started with the scrap piece of walnut left over from the flinter I did that I pictured on a different post. This wood has been off the stump for a considerable number of years and more than ready for some carving. The grain flow is perfect to highlight the addition of the pistol grip and the density is so that it should take a decent checkering pattern. I am going for a stock that is thicker in many dimensions from the original, namely the forearm and wrist. I plan to fluff it a little with a ruger butt pad and a steel grip cap.

When I began this project I had given some thought to how the action was held in the stock. The dinky original screws seemed to be a little bit light duty and they were slotted. Since I take this rifle apart often for cleaning the slotted screws had shown some abuse. My cure for both, right or wrong, was to drill and tap the reciever for a bigger fine threaded stock bolt with an allen head or a torx head. Let me tell you now that a ruger reciever is harder than hell. This I discovered after breaking the first 1/4-28 tap off. Proved positive after the second tap broke. Yes I know how to tap a hole and now I'm out two taps. With some judicious use of a dremel grinding tool and about two hours time I managed to get the broken taps out and save the integrety of the threads already formed. Whew...vulgarities ceased at that point....

Here are some pics so far.....

This is what I started with.....


I did some initial inletting on a bridgeport mill and got it to within 1/32 all around except the barrel channel.


Then I did the old fashion thing with a scraper and lamp black....and a Dremel Tool....



Here is the result of a bunch of hours of inletting the barrel and action...



Today I inletted the trigger guard....
[img]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/wildswalker/50%20ml%20pics/triggerguard.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c66/wildswalker/50%20ml%20pics/triggerguardbetter.jpg[/img]

Next step is tommorrow finish the action inletting ie the hole thru for the trigger....making sure the the safety works properly and making the ramrod hole larger...

More to follow as work progresses...hope ya enjoy my aggravations.....I do....

All systems are go. I oiled one side so the grain will show in the pic. Ready for some shaping and some fluff.

I think maybe a Ruger butt pad and a steel, checkered grip cap will go nice on this rifle.

Anyone got that I could buy?....

WW, looks like it's coming along just fine. BTW, I was going to put a steel grip cap on my '03, but after finishing it, it just didn't look to me like it'd look "right." Your stock's enough different, though, that I think I'd put one on yours. The tighter grip, compared to my '03, would look just fine, I think.

BW, that "tight" grip is subject to change as the whittlin' process begins, lotta wood right there yet. Can't say right now what we'll have but after 3 or 4 hundred "throws" it'll get figured out. This one is gonna fit me like the proverbial glove.

BTW, gonna pm ya in a minute....

Wilds, you sure picked a nice grain pattern to accentuate the pistol grip, could see that in the first pic without the oil.

Thanks for the visit to your shop, hope to stop by again soon.

Very impressive! What a hoot! Tailoring a gun to YOU. No doubt about it - gotta try this soon.

I'm still working on this thing, haven't stopped. Contemplated getting a little bit fancy with some Ebony wood accentuations. Nothing to extravegant just a nice compliment to the style of the rifle. The epoxy is drying as I type this and will post pics soon. I just hope it turns out as planned so I don't eat crow.....hate the taste of crow.

Well folks this is why it's taken a little while to get this back on here. I decided an ebony forearm tip was in order so I set to doing that. I was a little bit afraid it wouldn't turn out so was prepared to take the chop saw to it just in case. This was about the most complicated fit up job I have ever tried to do. I saw a picture of a Sharps rifle with a pewter forearm tip and figured it would look nice in black. All I had to go by was the picture and the rest I had to come up with on my own. One thing I knew for sure was that in order to get the curves to come out right, the fit up had to BE 100%. Since I didn't know exactly where the lines would end up having the right radius shape, it turned into a fit up nightmare. I had to get the inside curves on the ebony to come out symetrical and perfect as well as put a slight taper on it. I then fit it to the walnut from the top down thru the barrel channel. Had to do it that way cause of the shape of the ebony.

Ever smoked a piece of wood over an oil lamp to get lamp black on it? Good thing ebony is kinda hard to scorch and burn. I tried a bunch of stuff and the only other thing that worked well was stock oil....but...that spread out too fast and left me with a missed judgment on fit up. Finally went to the lamp as a failsafe, other than a couple cooked fingers it worked well.



Then the other problem came into play, taking up a lot of time...since I had already done a real good fit on the barreled action, I needed to then fit the barrel to the forearm tip and ultimately come out within a frogs hair of the previous fit up. I almost screwed up and let the barrel down in with a little push to one side...I saw that in time and saved it before it bottomed out. This forearm tip will ultimately end up rounded off on the end...I'll leave it alone for now so that the sqare end will aid in re-drilling the ramrod hole....

Thanks to a couple fine Campfire folks I'll have a steel grip cap and a Ruger butt pad to fit up soon and then I'll continue shaping....The hard part is OVER now and now the enjoyable part begins...Thanks for checking this out.

A suggestion. The next time you contempalte tapping harder steel get gun taps, if they break you can get them out a lot easier.

I am all fixed up by the Campfire on a red Ruger butt pad and a checkered steel grip cap....parts have been recieved, thanks again guys....fitted them and started shaping the butt of the rifle tonight. I believe it's gonna turn out just fine. Should have pics of the final shaping in a day or two...

I have finalized the shape of the rifle the past few days, it is now ready for some fine tuning and a final sanding....what's your thoughts......so far?

Damn! That's some very nice work. Seems my "This old house" projects suck up the time I have for projects like that.

Allen

I like it! I am doing a very similar "post season" project. I got one of the Z5 Omegas with the tupperware stocks. I got a Weatherby "reject" stock for $39. It is rough outside turned and un-inletted. Nice grain but a few imperfections that I patched with some glue and saw dust. I'm not as far along as you and hope mine comes out as nice as yours. I have to try to adapt the Monte Carlo stock to a more straight style that I prefer. My main concern is how the pivot portion of the rifle will look in the wood. I am am definately a rust blue and walnut guy, and am trying to figure a way to dress up that silver painted trigger guard on my gun. I love getting to the point you are at. It is always exciting to see how the wood comes alive as the oil first hits it.

PS - A nice single malt by the fire is a great reward after a well completed project. I have a bottle of 18 year old Glenmorangie that I look foward to pulling the cork on while watching the Olypics tonight. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Man, that's some project you got goin' there......looks great!

Superb......

Thanks Bro.....

Very impressive! You do nice work!

That is pure craftsmanship! Thanks so much for sharing your project with us.

Gene

Man alive!!!

When you said you did stock work, you wasn't kidding! That is some awsome craftsmanship. It makes me want to ease up there, and see just how you do it! LOL!

Jerry, thanks for the phone conversation...great to make new friends...I'll be having a chance (excuse) for you to come out my way in the spring....if you can make it. It'll be great fun for you and the Mrs. A real good chance for us to sit around a campfire and chat about such things as guns and gunstocks....maybe you can bring that foxpro and show me how to use it. I'll holler at ya in a day or two and fill ya in on the details...

Re: the project, I have gone into a metal working phase for the time being. The plan is to make, fit and blue several parts to complete this rifle. Two are simple, a couple of stockbolt screws to fit the action. The others involve how to hold the barrel down in the stock. The original had a barrel band that I thought was simply put....damn ugly... For this rifle anyway. My thoughts are that even though I probably wouldn't have any trouble with just the two screws up thru the trigger guard, it seems maybe a little weak, since the rifle is not put together like a regular centerfire 77 with the 3rd angled stock bolt pulling the recoil lug into the wood. Therefore I need a screw up in the forearm pulling down on the barrel.

By now you know me and I can't settle for just a screw there with the head showing. Now I have to come up with a graceful looking metal trap door about the size of a nickle that flips up revealing a screw underneath. Kinda like the latch on an over and under shotgun or a double. But instead of a latch it will just hide the screw. Of course it will be fitted well and blued. The "problem" is though the ramrod. The piece attached to the barrel will be dovetailed to the barrel and be a ramrod thimble sort of thing with a screw boss on the bottom. I think it is going to be a nicely complicated sort of thing. Good thing I have a bridgeport I can get my hands on....I did think about a wedge pin thru the side but passed on that asthetically speaking. That would be simpler and may remain as a back-up plan. It's off to some grinder dust and some metal filings....more to come soon.

That's some kind of nice work! Think I would just add a nice square recoil lug with threads for a screw under the front of that action, bed it and be done with that part of it. That is if I had one-tenth the talent you have. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the suggestion...that is an option. I'll kick that one around a day or two....might just try that.

Ain't much I can say ... that is fabulous. Wish I had those types of abilities ... when I get near wood, it looks like I brought my own personal pocket Beaver for fun!! Great work!!

Very nice work on the project, and especially the tip cap...very very nice on that.

thank you very much Dan...just thought some of ya'll might enjoy a start to finish project...done the hard way, or dumb way depending on how you look at it.

Currently I am working on some metal pieces and when they are ready for the blue I'll post them. There's a little R&D involved (expermentation) so it's taking some time. I don't want to goof it up. I need to fit and trim them with the wood before I do a final sanding on the stock.

They will be small parts, half a hand full...know anyone with a batch almost ready for the hot tank soon? My regular guy isn't gonna blue till later in the year.

I agree. Very, very nice work. Have you kept track of the hours you've spent on this? Rick

Well not really. For a couple weeks it was after work every nite until bed time....then it was a fiddle here and there so maybe 100 hours so far....I probably would go broke and starve to death if doing it for a living. Thing is, I get into something I never tried before like fitting that ebony forend tip, trial and error eats a lot of time. Now that it's done and the lessons are learned I probably could whip one out pretty quick. Question is would I want to...I would most likely question Sitka Deer about what he meant exactly when he said "jig it up". Jigs are my friend so I can imagine his idea would save time.
I've fitted many barreled actions so the time spent on that was pretty nill, an educated use of a bridgeport mill is a huge time saver. Good thing most places I ever worked had one I could use....

It's one thing to pour a bit of pewter.......................

The ebony looks as though it were poured.

Nice job, any details on that forend tip, the fitting and calcs, would sure be appreciated.

Thanks for a great article, WW.

GTC

Crossfire...like I stated a while ago, I WAS ready to chop the end off if it didn't turn out...I got lucky...

I got the idea from a recent gun magazine...picture of a sharps rifle with a poured pewter tip. I didn't want pewter, it had to be black. Hate plastic so it was an adventure with the ebony.

How I did it...I made paper patterns on the paint program. Got them to scale out on the printer to the size I needed. These patterns were in 3D kind of as they wrapped around the block of wood. I purposely started with square and true pieces so the patterns would fold on a reference line and keep things symetrical. I knew what I wanted to see when it was done so I just went with a bottom view and both side views. These patterens were then glued on the ebony block. While that was drying I set it aside and grabbed a block of pine wood and actually carved it out roughly like I intended to carve the ebony. I had one stock blank and one piece of ebony to work with so a mistake would be the end of it. I carved the pine block with it left in the square shape just like the ebony had to be worked with, then rounded it off like I wanted the stock to be shaped. This gave me a quick visual of the curved lines I needed for the real thing. I also learned a couple things on the pine that would be a no no on the ebony.

When I convinced myself to go for it, I just went real slow and spent way too much time being careful. I had to think in 3 dimensions and a dozen steps ahead for it to come out. I went back to the pine block several times. I should have taken pics of the block before I glued it on.

Keeping things symetrical was the hardest part. The compound curves needed to match exactly on both sides for the final black/brown line to match. The patterns that were glued to the block were indispensable for that. I measured a lot with a dial caliper from the centerline and the rest was luck...NOW I know why I can't win the lottery...I use it all on this kind of stuff.

Once the ebony was carved and my nerves settled down the fit up was really not that bad, just very time consuming. I treated it like I was fitting a piece of metal to the walnut. I knew I had to drop the ebony down from the top due to its shape. I did the same thing with paper patterns but printed them out so I could use the other side of the lines. Kind of a negative image so to speak. This kept me from going too far and getting into "good" wood with the initial "hacking out" with the Dremel tools. Once I got what I could afford to remove in a straight down path I began the lamp black thing. That was the time consuming part as I was chicken to hog out too much and for quite a while only got a few thousandths at a time. THE OTHER reason for the square shape of the blanks was to hold the stock level and true in my bench vise and use a torpedo level on the ebony block to make sure I WAS going straight down. I ended up with a 100% fit very close to what I had envisioned from the start. I won't tell what the differences are though. Turns out it looks good. The 100% fit was very important because I knew I couldn't match the color of the black wood with the epoxy. I have black dye but from past experience, when it is all said and done, it DON'T match. A boo boo there and all of you reading this would have called foul. I had to have a clean walnut to ebony line all the way around.

One thing I did do that helped me get that fit was...I tapered the ebony block about .010 inch from top to bottom...so it was always trying to wedge itself as I let it down in. This is how I was taught to inlet metal so a clean line comes out. Look back at the pictures of the barreled action inleted in the stock blank...A Ruger action has SQUARE sides...no bevel or round...VERY hard to get a good fit and not have a gap show.

Roy,
beautiful work, nice neat and precise. I like a widows peak on my ebony forend tips but yours looks great and 10X more difficult. Keep posting its very intresting especially when you let us know how its done.
Bob

We need more, more!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

It's coming I assure you...right now I'm investigating a few sources for some parts...waiting on some catalogs to arrive.

If I can't buy them to suit me then I'll make them. I'm not stalling out, just reached a phase that requires a bit of research and daydreaming... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

Wood is easy for me....metal on the other hand is a little tougher if it's not sized on industrial levels (pressure vessels, cutting torches, welding machines and such...).

You sir are a true craftsman with th patience of a saint. I custom build muzzloaders and can appreciate the work, wood and metal. Now if it was just a nice Bucks County flintlock.........

wildswalker, here's a site that might have something you are looking for, in fact they might have something almost anyone anywhere is looking for <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> www.mcmaster.com

Sort of a tricky site to navigate but it might be worth it.

Crazy...I know a little about flinters too...just a little bit <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I put this one together with a few junk parts laying around...the stock was the first half of the chunk of walnut that the Ruger came from...inlays are ebony, fiddle back maple and hickory <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Underclocked...thanks, I'll check that out....

That is some precise inlay work. Your hands must be a whole lot steadier than mine! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Okay...here's the deal...Searched high and low for a trap door mechanism to hide the forearm screw that's gotta secure the barrel in the barrel channel...

Thought I had it found but found out different....I've lost my patients with it so I'm gonna make one.

The lathe at work is busted with no near future hope of a fix...sooo it's back to my bench top and doing it by some variation of "by hand".

I'll put a paint drawing up later so ya'll can see what I'm talking about...

Stay tuned...

Hope this drawing comes out ok here.....

I'll try to make it bigger....

Probably the long way but...printed,scanned,enlarged and rotated....let's see if that worked.

A concern I would have with that is the strength of attachment of the thimble to the barrel. It might take some substantial forces during firing and if it isn't rigidly attached.....

But this will surely be a custom thimble assembly and you'll secure it well.

Also, I wonder how much wood is remaining there where the screw is placed? If it is too thin you'll have problems. Maybe hiding that screw head would prove to eventually cause more damage than it's worth aesthetically? Perhaps a more convential arrangement there would not look as nice but it would be much stronger. Just buy a bunch of nice screws to fit and keep some looking good. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> It's a muzzleloader so that barrel is very likely going to need to go in and out of that stock fairly often. ? ?

I've studied on this for a considerable time...a LOT of daydreaming....

"if it isn't rigidly attached....."

--Am gonna dovetail and solder the thimble...yes the thimble will be a custom made one...


"I wonder how much wood is remaining"

--That's easy enough to figure out...but part of the reason for the trap door mechanism...I figure a round, inletted "cup" of the size maybe between a nickle and a quarter will spread out the forces, more contact surface...in effect making a punny screw head very large...but not looking like huge...basically a big washer for the screw head...


"barrel is very likely going to need to go in and out of that stock fairly often. ? ?"

--Yeah I tend to break my rigs down often to ward off the metal vs moisture problems.....all the more reason to hide an ugly and beat up screw with something pretty...



Back to the strength thing...all I gotta do is get an eye full of how rinky dink the original set up was...I think I'm adding more beef...both in wood and metal fixtures...Also, there is a substantial recoil lug to help things out...

With THIS well fitted and maybe full bedded stock I think I got the Ruger engineers beat hands down... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I think you've already accomplished that much, for sure on the stock (and elimination of that barrel band!). Seems like you had already thought way past my concerns but it still seemed worth mentioning them. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Underclocked...I measured the thickness of the wood where the trap door is going...which will center in the wrap around checkering pattern...

From the outside, underside of the forearm....to the bottom of the ramrod channel, which is the thinnest point..it measures .660 inches...

After inletting the trap door and final sanding..it will probably measure no less than .575...over half an inch...that's plenty...more than some production guns...

Just letting you know... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

That's tough. FWIW - I think fitting a square tapped block just in front of the action would be a simple/safe way to go. It would work to hold the barrel down and as a recoil lug also. Bed it with a little JB weld and all that could be seen would be the screw head. You could even "pillar bed" the screw hole by inletting a small aluminum pillar in the stock to keep from compressing the wood if you torqued it too much.

You could still use your hinged cover idea for the screw. I guess it would be like a minature patch box. Just an idea...

Just caught this topic -- Awesome guy!!!

For those of you following this thread...I finally got a little time to put in this project again...

I've been working on a few small metal parts and pretty much have them ready for blueing...which will happen in a month or so according to my gunsmith pard when he's ready to run a batch thru the hot tank....

This is what I had to make...

A new ramrod thimble for the barrel...this was because when I drilled the hole in the stock for the ramrod, I had to drill it with a little space between the barrel and the rod. that was so the ebony wouldn't split out. I'm talking about a shy eigth of an inch, the original set up was tight to the barrel...When the ramrod was applied using the old thimble it left the ramrod bent under the barrel. Ugly and un-professional in my opinion. So I gathered up a block of "gun steel" and fabbed a new one with more space allowed between the rod and the barrel to get things parallel again.

The next part was the part needed for the forearm screw. It also needed to be a ramrod thimble and include a screw boss. I made a thimble and welded a small block to it, drilled and tapped the block, then inletted the new item into the stock. To attach this part to the barrel I needed to cut a dovetail so by following the example of the front thimble I cut a shallow dovetail where it needed to be on the underside of the barrel hidden inside the stock...Hand cutting a dovetail sucks...

If you remember from the beginning I talked about wanting the stock bolts bigger as in 1/4 X 28 thread in stead of the puny factory screws. Well I had to make three custom 1/4x28 slotted head screws, simple task if I had a lathe to do it...I made these by hand from some grade 5... 1/4 inch bolts. I shaped the heads by spinning them in a hand drill and did the cutting with a dremmel and a couple of files. I then cut the slots with a file I had modified to be "safe" on the two flat sides, cutting with the edge. They fit a certain large electricians screwdriver I have so I think I will leave it with the slotted screws and pass on the allen heads I had originally planned.

All that hoopla before about a little trap door thingy for the front forearm screw has been revised by the commonly overlooked K.I.S.S. method...I just made a nice simple little ferrule for the screw to settle into...

I'll get some pictures together and post them before I send these parts off to my blueing guy...The final shaping and sanding of the stock is next...I might trim it up a little more than it is, theres places it seems just a little bit too bulky...

Thanks for following this <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />.

djb......I thunk things over and went with your suggestion...mostly anyway... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

But we need more pictures! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'll do that soon.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Here ya go...my camera was M.I.A. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> darn kids.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

I gotta do a final polish on this stuff before I turn them over to the blueing guy...

New stock bolts...


The forearm screw and ferrule.....


The new ramrod thimble....shakey photographer sorry <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />


Don't look bad so far.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks! I feel some relief. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Don't see a thing wrong with the way you've got that forward screw set in there. Whole thing looks great to me!

I'll be taking suggestions from the Campfire as to the checkering pattern to put on it...Simple is out...so is the totally outrageous....somewhere in the middle...

The time for that nears.....

Thanks for the compliments.

If you need patterns I have a book on checkering (maybe you have it already) or could give you the book's title/author and/or you could borrowed it from a local libary.

A Win 70 Featherweight fleur de lis pattern would look nice!

doc623, yeah the name of the book would be cool...I usually make up a pattern to fit the stock and person I am doing it for...that takes a lot of pencil time and playing around to get it right. I was thinking of letting my friends here on the 'fire have some say in what pattern to put on this one so if you have a favorite, post a pic of it and we can go from there...

RickyD, I've always had a soft spot for those M70 patterns...even though I never drove a winny M70...I do like fleur di lis....

The name of the book is "Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks" by Monty Kennedy, pub by The Stackpole Co., Harrisburg, Pa.
' the complete home workshop reference with ready-to-use patterns...detailed instructions and techniques for making gunstocks look better,feel better, grip better'
Hope this helps.

Don't have a pattern suggestion for you but was thinking you might be able to create something based upon that weird bird Ruger emblem...? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

wildswalker, while you are finishing that stock - help me with my scope protector design: <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

......

Looks like it would protect as is...looks quick to apply and remove. Simple and practical.

Cool Design...one of those things that's "Why didn't I think of that..?"

It's off to the Blueing Guy tomorrow afternoon......120 mile trip one way...

Got her all polished up and ready to go with the small parts too.

The Flinter is going for some show and tell since the wood for both of these BP projects came from this guy...He want's to get a look at the fancies on it.

The 700 is going for a retube job in 30-06... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Roy, have you figured out your checkering pattern yet?

Naw.......

Been weedin' out the no go's though...

anything Ruger is out...
Rem is out except maybe a slightly modified CDL pattern...
Thinkin' highy of a Mod 70 pattern of some sort...

Might just wing it a few evenings with some painters tape and a pencil to see iff'n I can copy my minds eye...

Ya start puttin' dem black spots on the side and ya gotta carry the mail with a little bit of sumthin' fancy... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

we have to see the finished product! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Me too....

I'm still waiting on my metal to get back from blueing...might be a while yet, he was gearin' up to run a BIG batch of stuff. Haven't had time to work anymore on the stock here lately, I ran outta crappy weather.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

I'll be gettin' back at it soon.......

Bumpin' this back up as it dropped off the bottom...

The barrel and action are now blued, all I gotta do is go get it....probably next weekend. Word is it turned out fine.

Lookin' forward to it. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Please stop talking about your rifles, you are making me sick!!...mostly because I can't accomplish that kind of work, but want to. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Seriously though, looking forward to seeing things reassembled after finishing, so post the pics for us.

Steve

Hammer...got the metal back today...looks great, real nice deep blue. Just drove 200+ miles round trip to get it back so I'll post a pic later...maybe tomorrow...

Gonna full length bed the stock, mainly to seal it, then do the final sand and start finishing...won't be long now.

Roy
Awesome job on that stock bud.You can set-up a piece of wood for me anyday.That's gonna be one nice muzzle loader.You'll have to let your boy's break her in on a couple of whitetails.

I think I can arrange that break in with the boys... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Somethin' tells me I won't hafta twist an arm to hard....

Worked on it a bit here tonight...I expect next week I'll be puttin' finish on it...

Got two on the table now and one at the smithy...I'm multi-tasking... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Roy
Just wondering if ya put some finish on that bad boy.Can't wait to see what the wood looks likes finished.

Metal blued...10th coat of true oil....

Roy
Thanks for taking the time to post your work.It sure looks good.I use that tru-oil and it works great.Just not as skilled as you are my friend.
Great job.

Did you decide against checkering or are you going to do that later?

She's lookin' great!

I always checker after the finish is done. I'll rub 10 or so more coats on then break out the checkering tools.

is it soup yet? <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Still in the pot waitin' for me to add a little spice and red hot.....

Got precious little time at the present to divulge to it. Got myself into some projects needing more attention than I can afford....some of which involve a few Campfire members and a Black Bear trip that HAS to go off without a hitch...I'm refurbishing my boat for that event...

Things I need to do before the Ramblings rifle is Soup...full length bed the barrel and action, install sling mounts, aquire a Leupy 6x, checker and recheck load parameters....

Got that hand rubbed oil looking like fine wine though...<grins>

Just thought I'd hang this back up for those that were following along.

I got to hunt with this rifle a little this past season and can really appreciate what I did to it. Am thinkin' though that the geometry is still a little too..."fat", in places. It feels real good for bench shooting but as a hunting rifle I'm thinkin' it needs to lose a little heft. I'll be slimming it down in the near future, and then going ahead with a checkering pattern...

As you can see the Simmons it wore at the start has been banished in favor of a 3x9 Leupie...that I can like much better.

Sorry the pic is kinda blurry.....

Boy, that sure is a sweet job.

Thanks....

Looks great now and some nice checkering won't hurt. Nicely done!

Can't make up my mind what I wanna do on the checkering.

A simple Ruger point pattern would do nicely but might not fit in with all the fancies (ebony forend).

Definately gonna be a wrap around so I might hafta do curvacious accent lines to make it all blend, ect.

I do like a winny classic pattern...

I am impressed!!!!

Thank you for sharing your fine work.

Now thats kickin some azz Roy.Awesome job my friend.

a modified winchester f pattern would make me smile. just a thought. chris

Your most definitely gonna have one sweet firearm. Something to pass down to the next generation of hunters. Can't wait to see the end results.

Was thinkin' on dabbling with something like this....give or take.

Git after it!

ohhh man ,,, very well done

yep thats her whats she look like both sides? thanks chris

Chris...

Here's another view of that pattern, I dunno who did this work but I like it. I'll probably tone it down just a little to better fit my rifle......

fleur de lis? Fuzzy memory at work on my part.

Just don't do THIS!

ahhhhh no ,i wouldnt LOL . that typr of carving looks really good if you do it right LOL comes out like this
which was done by Joe Commings




I have done some of this type work . you need a high speed rotary tool in th 60,000 to 120,000 or more RPM range .. it can be done with a drimel and get fair results but you still have to get diamond points for it and it doesnt rurn out as crisp .
at lower speeds the tips dont sand as well or as nice as at higher speeds .
to do this style of carving I use a pneumatic rotary tool that hooks right up to my air compressor . The are not to bad in price starting at about the same price as a complete dermal set . The higher the RPM rating the higher the cost . But I have seen them rated to 120,000 for around 70 bucks without the diamond tips
I would also get the book Gunstock carving by Bill Janney . It will give you the basics

i would agree with the others checkoring and this type carving above should be done after the stock has been finished

Musta got a new dremel for Christmas.

Man, that is fugly!

I kinda like it : ) . But something you put that much time and money in needs to be displayed and insured. I'd be scared to take it out in the field.One scratch and I'd be crying like a baby .

People pay stoopid huge money for that kind of work...

Me, I can't like carvings on stocks and really can't like engravings much either, classic stuff is ok but fuggly is fuggly.

I dig plain and simple, and I'm affeared the Rambling Rifle might be a bit close to over the top for me asthetically, but we're gonna run with it anyway.

i can not wait to see a pict of your finished rifle. life is to short to hunt with an ugly rifle that said there are many diferent thoughts on handsome. i wish i had your tallent
thanks chris

RickyD that was too funny! I got tears in my eyes...