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Joined: Dec 2012
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When I call to order a barrel, is there anything special I need to tell them?
I don't understand what shank length I need to order, is there a standard?
How far from the finish length do I want the flutes to stop?

If someone would guide me or tell me exactly what to order and dumb it down for me , thanks.

22"Brux .260

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Is the barrel going to be a different contour than what's on the rifle now or are you building something from scratch ?

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you won't need to spec. shank length. it will be fixed and have enough meat so the 'smith can cut the chamber end off to get the shank (or cylinder length) you decide on.

the flutes on my only fluted barrel end 2" shy of the muzzle


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is brux going to flute it?

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I think I'm going to go with a custom action , probably stiller.

Brux is going to do the fluting. I would like to orderly stock and barrel ASAP.

Thanks

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this is how I would order it
22 inches in length with a one inch shank length and 6flutes to stop one inch short of the muzzle

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once again, you do NOT need to spec. shank length on a barrel blank. the shank will be ~1" longer than the dimentions on the CONTOURS page. they do factory contours too...

getting twist and contour right is where you gotta be. a typical order will be something like this--SS #2, .264", 1-8" twist, fluted to finish @ 26".

and yes, i'm runnin' some Brux barrels


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how would you know where to stop the flutes if you specified where you would want them to stop if you didn't specify a shank length to determine total length

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look at the contour chart. do the math, and call 'em with your order.
the farther from the norm your order gets, the better the chance for a screw-up.


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I would just get the contour/cal/groove/twist you want. The Smith can fit the bbl, then mark it and send it to Karl to be fluted. This way the flutes are timed correctly when the bbl is torqued properly. Much easier approach and it doesn't cost that much extra.

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Originally Posted by Reloader7RM
I would just get the contour/cal/groove/twist you want. The Smith can fit the bbl, then mark it and send it to Karl to be fluted. This way the flutes are timed correctly when the bbl is torqued properly. Much easier approach and it doesn't cost that much extra.


Get your your bolt fluted and maybe even a campfire bolt knob put on at the same time! http://www.kampfeldcustom.com

Now make sure you ask exactly how to order your mcmillan stock paying close attention to shank length and recoil lug

Last edited by BurninDupont; 01/08/13.
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Can you explain the recoil lug and shank length to me? I plan on ordering shortly. Spoke briefly with Rick yesterday.

I think im just going to buy a Stiller action for now until I undertand this game better.

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I've had three custom barrels made. My Krieger has nine flutes and a muzzle brake. I drew a schematic, and they made it-- with the muzzle brake. Seemed to be no problem for them.

My Hart has six wide flutes. 27 or 28 inches long, I think. The gunsmith put the muzzle brake on. Hart said they couldn't do it. Makes me wonder why Krieger could. I drew a schematic for Hart, and they made the barrel with the 5.50-inch cylinder rear-end of it I wanted, the length and diameter of it I specified at various lengths from the butt, and they did an excellent job. It prints quarter-minute to half-minute groups with maddening regularity.

Having a Lilja made right now in a Remington #4 contour. It will have the length I want and I expect to see it in all its stainless glory around February 22. Will be chambered in a .358-caliber, long-action wildcat of my own design.

It's not hard to design a barrel. Just ask yourself "What do I want?" Consider the diameters that you can't change and those you can. Length is up to you. Longer costs more. Longer is heavier. Custom contours are easier to specify than a pre-turned contour. When you order a pre-turned, you never really know if it will fit your stock without having to have a gunsmith hog it out to make the barrel fit. That's time and money. Think, draw, then think some more...


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Go to the Brux website. Look at the Contour Chart page. Look at Sporter barrel contours. Measurement B (2.75") is the shank length for the Blank. Your gunsmith can shorten this length when he threads the barrel. Your finished Shank Length will INCLUDE the recoil lug and is measured from the face of the action. I like a 1" shank which includes a .25" recoil lug for my hunting rifles.

Perhaps you can tell us what exactly you want to build and for what purpose? You dont have to over think this thing. A stiller action, McMillan Classic Edge stock, #3 Rock barrel, jewell trigger and talley rings will weight less than 8LBs with scope. Just an example of a good combination.

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Originally Posted by Birddogcatfish
Can you explain the recoil lug and shank length to me?
The "shank" is the length of the threaded portion that screws into the receiver mouth. It's usually an inch or in some custom actions, it may be 1.125 or as much as 1.5 inches. Makes for a more solid connection and some say it holds up the barrel better. Less "droop." Considering how stiff steel is, I don't see much droop in a barrel 24 to 28 inches long.

Recoil lugs are pretty much a standard size for M700 actions. There are several to be had in the Brownells. Your gunsmith can recommend one or he can inlet your stock for whatever you bring him. It's not a great obstacle to getting your stock to where you want it.


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Barrel is ordered and done. I did a Brux #3 fluted 6.5.

Now I have to figure out to order a stock from up top. I can't get to the order screen for some reason.

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you won't be sorry. my most accurate rifle has a Brux barrel.


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How do you order a stock? went to the gear section and signed up, I can see where to put in specs etc? I click on Mcmillan box and nothing happens. Im computer dumb but I am missing something obvious somewhere.

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lemme go check it out...

looks like Rick has a server glitch right now. try emailing him at orders24hourcampfire.com

or using the link on the campfire gear shop page to get in touch with him.

you can also order direct from McMillan


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