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444Matt Offline OP
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Yes, all was clear. Did not think to look at piston and cylinder for damage. Will be inspecting that under good light tomorrow at work.

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To determine if it's a weak ignition, tht's holdin you back.Gap a new plug, down to about 20 thou.(.020)

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444Matt Offline OP
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New bosch plug is properly gapped and installed, still will not crank. Plug shows spark when tested outside of combustion chamber, just not sure how to test to see if it is enough spark.

Last edited by 444Matt; 04/09/13.
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The problem is the fuel line from the tank to the carb. Being this is the spring the saw has been sitting all winter. The problem is the ethonanl in the gas. The gas line rubber gets eaten and soft. I have changed a whole bunch of those on sthild that have had gas left in them. And you can say you drained it all out but you really never do. The gas line has a series of knots molded in the line. check for cracks around those knots.

Last edited by Grizz700; 04/09/13.
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444Matt Offline OP
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I removed the pickup tube from the tank to the carb. It was not obstructed, re installed. The saw was used and ran fine prior to "mikey" getting his hands on it.

From imput from others I'm thinking he ran improperly mixed fuel in it and that may have caused some real problems...

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I hate working behind Mickeys.

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Hey Matt,

I applaud you for being so thorough in your procedure to check out the unit. Many folks are not.

The major problem I see on the 025 series are usually related around fuel issues that are substandard in nature(read aged.)
As grizz (and others suggested) the fuel line could have some checking issues. Look around the bended areas out of the tank. Sounds like you might have done this already?

Do take the muffler off again to inspect the cylinder. If it looks ok, take a turn at starting. Turn the saw on (no choke-just on) and hold throttle wide open. Then crank the "sucker" (technical term smile ) 15 or 20 times, or until it starts to try to start. The saw's cylinder and crankcase might be so flooded that it is wetting you plug too much for it to fire properly. If the spark is good and the compression is reasonable, it should try to start. Keep it up until it starts to clear out. I'm guessing that this is your problem, though I'm assuming that the carb. is clean and the diaphrams are not warped or have issues.

Let us know how it turns out.

bhtr


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What ya get for working with "high performance" chit...

After owning two Stihls, I never will another...too tempermental. But a really hyped rep!

I'm sticking with the AK47's, Mauser 98s, and '03-A3s of the world.... Poulan or Jonsered. In a pinch, Craftsman. smile


YMMV - but mine was crap....


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Good advice from bearhunter here. When you pull the exhaust off turn the saw with the exhaust port down. With the plug out and crank it and see if you get premix out of it. If so, continue to crank until it dries up. Those carbs have tiny passages in them too and not hard to clog up. Way back in the 70's, I saw guys turn their bikes upside down and crank them to clear the bottom ends of fuel. The old CZ bike actually had a drain plug in the bottom of the motor for flooding.

Last edited by smarquez; 04/09/13.

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Originally Posted by 444Matt
I need some help from the resident small engine guys. I am trying to get a friends Stihl 025 to run and need some direction. This saw has always ran like a champ. I have personally worked with its owner while in use and can verify that, and his personal care of tools is top notch.

Scott let 'Mikey' borrow the saw a few weeks back. "Mikey" returned said saw with no mention of any issues. I asked to borrow it this weekend to cut down a small bradford pear tree. Scott gave me a heads up to check the auto oiler as he thought it might be a little caked up with sawdust from "Mikey"s use.

Once I got the saw home and took a good look at it, its was obviously ran hard to border line abused by "Mikey" I removed the chain and bar, got everything cleaned up and put back together.

Saw will not start. I didn't verify that it ran when I picked it up, just put it in the truck as Scott's stuff has always worked top notch. I check the plug and it is fouled VERY heavily. Checked the tank and the 'fuel' mixture is extremely dark and oily. Air filter is also a mess.

New plug from the local Stihl shop, air filter cleaned, tank cleaned out, pickup screen fuel tube to carb cleaned. New non ethanol 92octane with synthetic 2cyl oil to 50:1 spec per the stihl manual added. Saw will still not start. Muffler removed to inspect for obstructions and screen checked out fine as did the gaskets. All re-installed. New plug removed and inspected for spark while engine turns over via pull cord. Spark is noticeable, however I feel it may be weak. Looking for way to test that.

Air filter housing removed to pull carb out and inspect. I notice that the access tube for the low speed screw and the idle speed screw are moved out of alignment to set screws. Makes me wonder if "mikey" tried dicking with the adjustments.

Carb removed, bottom fuel bowl taken off and flushed with carb cleaner, no gunk or gel noticed. Carb re-installed with access tubes correctly aligned to adjustment screws, filter housing re-installed.

I took the top "low speed" screw to factory setting "all the way tight, then backed off one full rotation. I have no real idea of what the idle speed screw should be set at, any help there would be great.

Saw still will not start, I've tried giving it a little ether and it will not run off of that.

From what I can figure, either there is something messed up in the carb or the idle speed setting is way off. Or I have a spark problem. (with plug removed while turned over fuel mixture sprays out the plug hole).

How do I test to see if I am getting enough spark.

Also wondering about the gas tank vent line. I know it has something to do with overall starting and running, but not sure what it should be at. It is a clear tube with two set screws in it, I believe it to be a one way vent tube.

I have very little small engine experience and have kind of reached an end of what I know to do with it. Any help, pointers or folks that want to find "mikey" and kick his butt with me are welcome.


Do you want to borrow some all of my broke schitt?



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The "Man of Stihl" has arrived. wink
Originally Posted by bearhuntr
Hey Matt,

I applaud you for being so thorough in your procedure to check out the unit. Many folks are not.

The major problem I see on the 025 series are usually related around fuel issues that are substandard in nature(read aged.)
As grizz (and others suggested) the fuel line could have some checking issues. Look around the bended areas out of the tank. Sounds like you might have done this already?

Do take the muffler off again to inspect the cylinder. If it looks ok, take a turn at starting. Turn the saw on (no choke-just on) and hold throttle wide open. Then crank the "sucker" (technical term smile ) 15 or 20 times, or until it starts to try to start. The saw's cylinder and crankcase might be so flooded that it is wetting you plug too much for it to fire properly. If the spark is good and the compression is reasonable, it should try to start. Keep it up until it starts to clear out. I'm guessing that this is your problem, though I'm assuming that the carb. is clean and the diaphrams are not warped or have issues.

Let us know how it turns out.

bhtr


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las-

You're probably just hard on chit!

Maybe if you had given the saw a cool name....


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It pains me that my saws are orange, and cut trees like a Beaver. Otherwise it'd be an easy nickname.


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Originally Posted by Jeff_O
It pains me that my saws are orange, and cut trees like a Beaver. Otherwise it'd be an easy nickname.


Let me guess, you are a poor misguided Ducks fan...

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Originally Posted by Take_a_knee
Try to find out if the "mikey" mixed his own fuel and got too much oil in the mix. That'll choke up a carb PDQ. I had a moron do that to me twice with a little 4hp merc outboard.


This is my guess. The easiest way to screw up any borrowed two stroke has got to be improper fuel mixture. If you're lucky, you can drian the gas and fill it up with the correct mixture. Hopefully, with a few pulls, you can get her started up again.

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The part about not firing with ether means either the spark is too weak to fire under compression, or it's loaded up so bad it drowns the spark with fuel.


Mark

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444Matt Offline OP
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Guys thanks so much for the input, giving me good places to start with it this morning.

I watched the video on how to rebuild the carb. Looked surprisingly easy. I've never had to mess much with carborated equipment, will tear down this carb to inspect for damage a rebuild kit should be simple to buy and install if needed.

Will be checking the cylinder to look for damage, googling images right now to see what a screwed up one looks like. Hoping that isn't the issue, but have a bad feeling it might be.

I will look at our shop to see if we have a compression tester I can fit to that stihl, but I doubt it. Looking online I should have around 125-150PSI

Also will try turning it over with muffler removed and plug removed to see if that helps break anything up and move it out.



Only reason I am doing all this is the saw's owner Scott, is a very good friend and I KNOW this saw has been well taken care of in the pass. I had a feeling our mutal friend "mikey" was someone I wouldn't loan stuff to and this ordeal has more than confirmed that!


I just bought a NOS Stihl 250c so no more borrowing chainsaws for me, and it dang sure won't be lent out to bone heads like 'mikey'.

Heading in early this morning to work on it.

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444Matt Offline OP
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Also, any tips on how to test the ignition coil/magneto? I can see spark, but have no other way to verify if it is sufficient.

Specs on clearance between flywheel magnet and ignition coil?

Last edited by 444Matt; 04/10/13.
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444Matt Offline OP
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Oh and for anybody following this thread, Lil' Red Barn has some great videos on You Tube and parts for just about any outdoor power equipment it seems.

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Originally Posted by smarquez
Good advice from bearhunter here. When you pull the exhaust off turn the saw with the exhaust port down. With the plug out and crank it and see if you get premix out of it. If so, continue to crank until it dries up. Those carbs have tiny passages in them too and not hard to clog up. Way back in the 70's, I saw guys turn their bikes upside down and crank them to clear the bottom ends of fuel. The old CZ bike actually had a drain plug in the bottom of the motor for flooding.


^^^ Small two strokes can be extremely finicky when they're flooded out. I even throw some raw gas in the cylinder while cranking it to help dry things out.

After doing this try starting it with no choke or throttle until it sputters.

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