Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Chain saw opnions

When it comes to rear handle saws HUSKY, HUSKY, HUSKY. 346XP now replaced by the 550XP, 576XP, and 395XP are the kings.

The op stated he didn't want to spend for a professional saw so that leaves the home owner/farm saws. I feel husky owns that market right now anyways. Or possiably shares that market with Dolmar.

The old Stihl 066's and 088's were great saws. I have no loyalty to any company. My loyalty is to my wallet. When you make a living on them you learn fast its just a name until you see a performance difference.

Whatever you do don't buy .058 bars or chains for Husky's.

I LOVE my Dolmar. It cost forty bucks more that the same sized Stihl and out preforms both our Stihl and Huskys.

Really..I can take a low cc engine saw and out cut a higher..Saws are saws unless you grind your chain or know how to sharpen correctly and most don't...

Jayco

I don't see where Scott said what size any of the saws are. But yes a lower cc saw can out cut a larger in some cases. If mods have been made, if bar is smaller then on the larger cc saw, skip tooth, also a full cheisle can give you the upperhand.

I wasn't aiming my reply to Scott...Most or atleast a high percentage of saw users have no idea how to sharpen a saw correctly,making it cut less than it could....Round file users that no what there doing can do a fair job but nothing close to a grinder.

Many buy those fieasco guides,but then again,you have to no when to quit or keep going.Rocked chains are another thing....

My point is,someone with a sharp chain done right will out cut someone with an okay chain and a larger cc engine.....

Jayco

In my opinion thru experiance grinders suck. All that is needed to keep a chain sharp is a few file strokes ever time you fill the saw with gas.

Running a Husky 346XP and a 359. I love that 346XP--hurts buying it but worth it...makes light duty, quicker...

Sell a couple of knives to get there and you will never be sorry...:)

You evidently have not used a sharp chain much.Being a sawyer using my saw 8 hours a day and very good with a round file,it doesn't even come close to a ground chain...

Then the rakers,when to whack 'em and when not to.If your getting sawdust when cutting wood,your saw is not sharp.If your getting fine wood chips 1-2 inches long,your saw is sharp.

If you can hold on to your saw with one hand and it eats it way through the wood without any force,your saw is sharp.

I could go on but I'm going fishing.....

Jayco

Your right I only make my living with my dull saws!

If you let your chain get dull to the point you need a grinder to get them sharp you are in over your head. Which I already know you are lost in this discussion.

Now tell everyone how many trees you have had Barber's Chair on you!

I really don't know anything about chain or sharpening it. I only help design and make the machines that assembled and sharpened chain, took part in testing kickback, and made comparison cutting tests for nine years. What would I know?

Scott

Why are you taking this personally?I never once mentioned your name and you not knowing how to sharpen.What I did say was the majority or most,not Scott...

This is the fire where the Chain/bullet/270 Win/Kimber and everything was invented or someone was part of..

I click on the poster above and do not aim my post at anyone in particular unless I start it with there name,like this one.

Easy little fella...Take a pill or something and get snotty when someone is in your face which is not me...

Jayco

For light duty like pruning trees and cutting firewood you can't beat it. German and Swedish saws have a lot of rubber bushings to counteract vibration (white fingers). They last a long time. Keep it sharp and keep it revved and you will be happy. Use the best lubricants you can find. Don't let a small saw bog down, and don't overwork it.

Didn't see your second post. Looked like it was addressed to me. I apologize.

But, real saw chain can only be sharpened wit a flat saw file and a real saw man knows how to use it.

Scott don't give logcutter any clues, he will only end up hurting himself.

A lot of folks here have more time on a saw than I do. I am just the lone Dolmar groupie.

And I am betting I have been around more chain in my life than anyone else here. Help design and build assembly machines and the only machines in the world that sharpen chain from as they come from the punch press to dead sharp after assembly in hundred foot lengths. Have built the machines the break chain into loops and the machines that make the loops. I have done metallurgical study of chin parts and studied failures. 3/4 pitch failures were really fun. Probably the only guy here who has made an air driven gun that shot saw chain rivets through cinder blocks too.

I like the Dolmar's just not many places around here deal in them. That shouldn't matter much to me as I order all my parts on-line. At this point I have a lot of money vested in the saws I have so hard to stray unless there is big reward in doing so.

One of the reasons I went with Dolmar was the two saw shops within fifteen miles of me that were full service dealers. So far I have not needed them.

One of those dealers even carried Carlton chain.

I have never run Carlton Chain.

I run Stihl Super L Klassic

RSLK on my 346XP and 562XP

RSLFK on my 576XP

Edited as ran the wrong parts on saws the first time.

I run carlton chain. 3/8, full chisel, regular sequence.