Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire &%$#%*@ Mice

get a chit load of moth balls, put a few in a coffee filter and put them absolutly EVERYWHERE!

they have started to avoid the decon, I've been baiting our neighbors cat and the mouse problem has gotten worse, I think we may be "infested" we were cleaning our little boys room and found a nest under his crib, we removed and cleaned out a nest under his crib two weeks ago as well. The traps get cleaned off after one is dead in them after awhile they avoid the areas with traps and chew holes in the walls in different places. They chewed the insulation off the wiring on the dryer, I have left the back off the dryer so that we can vacuum the lent out and yesterday it wouldn't start low and behold mice in the dryer. I really don't know what to do at this point. We are considering moving at this point.

Take a stick and probe under the siding where you house meets its foundation. You have a gap somewhere so they can get in, if your getting a lot of mice it's typically a place lower to the ground and near a corner.

If you have a friend with a ferret, borrow some of the ferrets bedding, and place it in likely mouse spots....works like magic! and quick too.

If you make these traps and put them around your place, you won't have any more issues with mice. They work like a charm, aren't dangerous to kids/pets and you don't have to reset 'em.

Drill two holes in a 5-gal bucket and in the ends of a round condiment jar and feed a hanger through. I put kinks in the hanger so the mustard bottle stayed centered - just make sure the jar/bottle is able to spin freely so the mice get tossed into the drink! Move one around or make up a few if you have several spots you'd like to cover.....

Nebraska, I built a couple of those but I can't seem to locate them near where the mice our.

You need a good snake to keep the house clear of mice.

One thing that will help is making sure the mice are able to climb on something (piece of wood or ??) that will get them high enough to look in and see the bait. Good luck either way....

Close up all your doors and windows. Open the highest window a crack and run a hose from your trucks exhaust pipe to the crack. Then run your truck in neutral for about an hour, wait overnight and then air out your house. You should have a lot of dead mice.

Dig down 6" around your house then wrap it with of roll of the plastic that movers use to protect furniture. Might not keep them out, but you should be able to see where they are entering.

My sympathies Sir, at least I only have one critter to kill.

Did you mix cement with deer pellets or hen scratch and put water near?

Call the owner of the house and tell him he has a mouse problem and they are destroying his house. Tell him he needs to fix the problem pronto!!

that's the problem, it family and 90 yrs old and make me take care of every thing anyway.

and on the bucket traps I have built little ramps out of paint sticks.

So looking forward to this spring when we can purchase our own home.

They absolutely are! Never clean a mouse trap after a catch. The other mice will be attracted to the scent of the first mouse and the trap will become much more effective. Mouse piss is the best bait available for any trap. The second best is a piece of yarn or tuft of thread, as mice are always on the look out for nesting material. Food stuffs come in a distant third.

It sounds like the OP really needs a few "Tin Cats" which are capable of catching as many as twenty mice at a time.



I will repeat this post I made a week or so ago.

If you have mice around the exterior of your home, you will eventually get one inside. The professional answer is to keep them away from the outside. And then catch any which do make it inside.

I have professional training in prevention and control of rodent entry of food processing facilities. We prevent rodent entry into a food plant with well manicured grounds. The lawn is kept short. All vegetation is removed from the immediate perimeter. The exterior perimeter is all paved or concrete. And we place rodent bait stations every thirty feet around the exterior.

Still an occasional mouse will get inside. We place "Tin Cat" live traps inside the building on each side of every exterior door way and at intervals on every interior wall.

Some of these techniques translate well to the home owner. Keep the lawn mowed short. Do not allow any shrubs around the house which might give harborage to rodents. (anything which spreads and covers the ground)

Bait stations like this can be discretely placed around a home. They are designed to be pet proof and child resistant. The rodents eat at the bait, then leave and die some place else. This reduces population density around the house, and greatly reduces the number of mice which might gain entry.


http://www.qcsupply.com/farm-livest...otomco-tamper-resistant-rat-baiters.html

This is an effective bait for use in the station. It contains the anticoagulant diphacinone, which has been an industry standard for at least a couple decades.


http://www.qcsupply.com/motomco-tomcatr-rat-bait-9-lb-bucket-chunx.html

I keep bait under the house where pets do not have access. In several years, I have never smelled a dead mouse from under the home. But the rodenticide blocks do get consumed, so something must be getting under there inside the foundation.

If that is a concern for you, you could use "Tin Cats" under the house. Then if you do detect the aroma of a carcass, you can go straight to the offending trap and empty it.

Once set, the traps need no maintenance. If they are in a clean and dry environment, they will stay operable and attractive to mice for eternity. They take no bait. They work because a mouse will explore any hole he finds in search of harborage.



http://www.qcsupply.com/farm-livest.../traps-bait-stations/230140-tin-cat.html

Place a pair of "Tin Cats" inside the foundation, one on each side of the entry to the crawl space. Then place one more in the center of each side wall inside the foundation.

Mice will almost always travel with the whiskers of one cheek touching a wall. They are agorophobic. Place the traps against the wall with the openings close to the wall.

The final bit of protection for a home owner fighting a mouse problem is traps inside the home. It is wise to keep an operable trap inside any pantry or cupboard containing food stuffs.


You have previously stated that you keep livestock. Traps and bait stations around barns, out buildings, and feed storage areas will reduce rodent populations in those areas and will also protect the home if it is in close proximity to out buildings.