Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Who would not shoot moly coated bullets

Thanks Dave. I have only run a box of Molly's down a 270 with a slick high dollar stainless barrel. Wish I had opted for the DBC first.

I believe it does to a degree.

Also, I refuse to touch the insides of the neck if I can help it, not wanting to eliminate the small amount of carbon that I believe is part of that also.

I anneal every firing as well, and always quench, not as part of the annealing process, but to stop the heat migration on the short Dasher cases. I've found the water quench helps in consistent neck tension as well, vs not.

I've pulled bullets from ammo, one batch loaded for one year, the second loaded for two, that I could use a Davidson plier type puller, and have no snap, crackle, or pop when doing so. They all pulled like they were loaded yesterday.

I quit cleaning the inside of fired brass necks a few years ago and noticed the same thing.

That's why I don't understand the fascination with the s/s pin or sonic cleaning.

Pretty doesn't make 'er better in bed.....

Yeah,but at least you wont puke in the morning when you take a good look!!!

Not really following how you leave carbon in the neck. Doesn't the expander ball scrape it away anyway?

I tumbled all my cases first, and use a carbide expander. It makes the resizing step smooth as butter and I think a dirty neck can pull shoulders forward.

I've never cleaned necks. I keep my brass clean in the tumbler, but not spotlessly so.
As for pulling necks when expanding, that means your sizer is too tight anyway. Bushings give you pretty darn good control of bullet tension, in fact, when I went wet with the moly, I had to go down a thousandth on the bushing.
Dry metal against dry metal does strange things. Like Mickey related the other day, the stainless galling on stainless -- and I've had to "pop" some older Norma ammo. Might be the reason old milsurp isn't often accurate.
Eye, if you want to get as much moly out of that tube as possible, I'd recommend trying Dawn dish soap. It works great in the shop after a day of moly grease nastiness, too.
But you might have not had enough moly in the barrel to begin with. As John says, you can't swap back and forth between naked and coated. The moly the first time needs some time to "settle" and that's after you've rubbed some kind of prep moly on the barrel surface to begin with.
So, good luck.

Not to hijack this thread but lately I've seen some factory stuff on the shelf coated with Boron Nitride? I know its not Moly but is it supposed to be similar or?

Well, for all you Molly lovers out there, I've got two box's of Barnes 165 gr .30 cal that I would swap anyday for plain Nosler partitions. 7mm, .270, .308, .338, etc.

Personally, I have little use for molly coating!

Respects,
Richard

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Buck, you can strip the moly off easy cheesy with mineral spirits and Dawn. Find a chicken pot pie tin or a stainless bowl and go for it.

Be nice if that would work with a barrel, Dave.

How much work you think to remove it from a slick bore after 20 shots?

It seems repeated cleaning and firing normal bullets would eventually abrade it out.

It's not "contaminated." Don't worry.
If you only did 20 shots, it never really had a chance to take effect. Strip it like you would copper, when it comes clean of copper, try some Dawn on a brush, then a patch or two, then swill out the Dawn with your favorite bore stuff. You might still get some "darkness" but it's not going to be a lot, and I find it incredibly doubtful that you actually harmed your base accuracy.
You may never, ever see a squeaky-white patch ever again from that barrel, but if it still shoots, who cares?
I have never lost accuracy with moly, and have got good longevity from my fleet of barrels. I will say that moly doesn't help much with fundamental bore erosion, that's basic 5000 degree gas physics. It did not affect the basic accuracy either way in any statistical trend I could see from my target records when I made the change.
But I definitely do not clean as much as I would with naked bullets.

Pretty much my experience and that of my fellow HP shooters some years ago. Big rush over moly, followed by a gradual fall off in the practice. Some of the early addicts were actually obnoxious about using it, to the point that others became annoyed by their fanaticism. Pretty much a non-issue these days, at least in "my" circles?

Still have a sack of either Speer or Hornady moly-coated .224 bullets out in the loading room, that one of the more accomplished HP shooters pawned off on me years ago, when he abandoned that pursuit.

Some day when my media is due for a change, will probably throw 'em in the tumbler and shine 'em up?

Several years ago I bought a used M700 in 223 that had apparently undergone a moly coating in the bore, as it didn't exhibit enough usage to have become that infested via just shooting coated bullets?

Took a lot of time/effort, but I finally got it to shoot "plain" jacketed bullets with good results. Faux Kroil (home made); Carbon Cutter; Bore paste and a zillion strokes/patches later, it is pretty much moly-free now.

Of the dozens and dozens of regular shooters I've known over many years, none are still monkeying around with moly now, FWIW.

The championship-quality high power target shooters I know have almost all given up on moly.

It's been pretty well established with experiments that all moly does is reduce velocity because some of the powder energy is wasted in vaporizing some of the moly that coats the barrel. A short time later, of course, the moly condenses back on the barrel.

Any improvement in barrel life or change in accuracy is merely a due to a reduction in velocity.

To get back to the initial velocity, you have to load more powder. There is no point to moly.

I know nothing about DBC.

DBC with moly is a fun combination.

Moly sucks, nobody shoots it anymore, ruins barrels, kills accuracy, makes a GD mess of everything, and builds up so bad in the bore that bullets stick half way down......

Why would you even consider it......

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/7794099/Two_World_Records#Post7794099

I will have to respectfully disagree with that statement. Wet-applied moly has helped immensely in my PD rifles for considerably more rounds between cleanings. There is a piece on 6BR that Norma did regarding moly and barrel life also... Worth a look.

I can only go by the rifles I have and the time I get to test them, but it's worth it to me, for the same reasons some of the other guys have posted.

I also UBC'ed my first barrel this summer and trying it with HBN coated bullets for a comparison. Good thing is, the bore coat didn't ruin my new barrel( I was nervous, have to admit, but I know JB doesn't talk out his #%$, like some other folks). So I took the plunge, it's shooting small groups at over 4100fps so far.

Two identical chamberings, albeit different twist rate rifles and I will run them side by side and see how they match up. One wet-applied moly bullet, one UBC'ed and HBN.

Thanks for the vote of, uh, confidence!

One reason moly can extend barrel life is reduced friction, which reduces heat, which is the main (but not only) ingredient in barrel life.

I suspect DBC has some effect there too, but so far there isn't any proof. However, there is some proof that Cerakote increases bore life, because it was originally developed for heat-transfer on stuff like radiators, engines and anything else that runs hot. It definitely helps transfer heat from barrels as well, though sometimes we don't notice because many of us use black Cerakote on our barrels, which doesn't help on sunny summer days on a prairie dog town.

I don't use moly.

No problem. It takes a pretty good leap of faith ( for me anyway) to try something like DBC on a new barrel. Your experience with it helped me take the chance. I've done 2 now, further testing required, but I'm becoming a believer.