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Joined: Dec 2002
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Many thanks I like that design. I've actually been modifying the Elevators so they would support all 4 corners. The EZtower solves the problem.
"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."
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Joined: Jun 2002
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Campfire Sage
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Campfire Sage
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A quick search turned up this. Looks pretty good to me. Looks about like an over-sized chicken coop. PS That's not a put down, by the way. There are some very nice chicken coops.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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Campfire Sage
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Campfire Sage
Joined: Jun 2002
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Your budget is too low to build something nice that will last a long time. This is what my son built for his Eagle Scout project this summer. He made it for an Environmental Learning Center that also has public hunts: SWEET!
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Joined: Jun 2002
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Campfire Sage
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Campfire Sage
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Well done, Mark. That'll do.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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Campfire Regular
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Just built one myself. It's 4'x 6 1/2' long and 18 feet off the ground. 6 1/2 feet tall at the front wall and 6 feet at the rear. There is about $700.00 in lumber in it. I used the elevators brackets so add another $95.00 or so. Not really crazy about them, won't use them again.
Your mind is your primary weapon. Never let it get rusty.
Endowment Member NRA
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 131,964 Likes: 54
Campfire Sage
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Campfire Sage
Joined: Jun 2002
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Just built one myself. It's 4'x 6 1/2' long and 18 feet off the ground. 6 1/2 feet tall at the front wall and 6 feet at the rear. There is about $700.00 in lumber in it. I used the elevators brackets so add another $95.00 or so. Not really crazy about them, won't use them again. Nice. Is that painted battleship grey, or did you up-armor it?
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Joined: Oct 2011
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Campfire Regular
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It's OD Green. Going to the lease this weekend to put the finishing touches on it.
Your mind is your primary weapon. Never let it get rusty.
Endowment Member NRA
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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I have to suggest this strongly. I bow hunt frequently out elevated blinds. The new one is not home made it's a "Redneck" blind" Although the platform is all made here of wood.
It needs to be anchored with cable well staked well away from the sides. Elevated blinds will blow right over regardless of the width of the bottom. I have been in Elevated Blinds in Texas that were 3-4 feet away from the original position during a wind storm. I have seen many blow over. They do not land well by the way.
I learned from this and now I stake them in with cable on all four sides and a cable tensioner. The Anchors I use ar 6foot "t" posts hammered in flush with the ground at an angle. They are drilled through the tops and the cable connects there.
Just this week we have had two really powerful storms taking down 100 year old Sycamore trees at my neighbors. Wind speeds meausured well in excess of 50mph for about an hour each storm.
My Elevated blind is still standing thank goodness! However the cable tensioners are loose. Easy to tighten them up, but to have come loose means that they were stressed a lot. Thankfully This thing is anchored as tight as it was!
www.huntingadventures.netAre you living your life, or just paying bills until you die? When you hit the pearly gates I want to be there just to see the massive pile of dead 5hit at your feet. ( John Peyton)
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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First make your floor (base), using 2x4's and 1/2-3/4" plywood. The make your walls using 1/4" (or 3/8) plywood and 2x2's. Make a roof that will sit on top of the walls(as light as possible). Use a couple drywall screws with the hex heads to secure the walls to the base and roof to the walls. Disassemble the stand, take it to your hunting location and put your legs on the base. Brace the legs with boards horizonally near the bottom of the legs. Stand it upright and bring the wall componants up, one at a time and secure with screws. Put the roof on last. (duh). After the stand is assembled put cross braces on all four legs.
5x6', 10' tall, is a big stand, and dangerous to move in rigid form, unless you have heavy machinery. All I'll add to what Pat said is : A sheet of 1/2 plywood is cheaper and stronger than a bunch of dimensional lumber for your bracing. Cot 6" wide strips and use LOTS of the screws Pat mentioned to attach them to to the legs. Diagonals are your friend when it comes to bracing. I'd use tin for the roof. Cut 10' sheets half in two and it will give you 6" of overhang on the sides and you'll need no ceiling joists. Put a trap door in, keeping it at least 6" away from the end wall. A slanted ladder will make it easy to get into. Unless you just have to have 10' to see over obstacles, I'd go with 7 or 8 feet to the floor. Even then, I'd guy it out to steady it in the wind. I must have built a dozen enclosed blinds over the years and no two were alike. I seldom hunt out of one anymore except when there is falling weather. Don't forget carpet.
Never holler whoa or look back in a tight place
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Campfire Outfitter
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First make your floor (base), using 2x4's and 1/2-3/4" plywood. The make your walls using 1/4" (or 3/8) plywood and 2x2's. Make a roof that will sit on top of the walls(as light as possible). Use a couple drywall screws with the hex heads to secure the walls to the base and roof to the walls. Disassemble the stand, take it to your hunting location and put your legs on the base. Brace the legs with boards horizonally near the bottom of the legs. Stand it upright and bring the wall componants up, one at a time and secure with screws. Put the roof on last. (duh). After the stand is assembled put cross braces on all four legs.
5x6', 10' tall, is a big stand, and dangerous to move in rigid form, unless you have heavy machinery. I build base first, then walls and roof. Haul to site and assemble. Edited: post hole digger to drop in ground and for bracing supports. Stand must be secured against wind gusts.
Last edited by Stan V; 09/19/13.
All American
All the time
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Camo corrugated fiberglass? Where's ya get that, Woody? I need some!
"I'm gonna have to science the schit out of this." Mark Watney, Sol 59, Mars
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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A suggestion to the OP:
Find a copy of Reader's Digest's "Back To Basics" for a primer on some good basic construction skills, and lots of other good stuff, besides.
Have a good day man. In honor of personal freedom and the open squirrel season, I think I'll go put a hole through dinner's head.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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A suggestion to the OP:
Find a copy of Reader's Digest's "Back To Basics" for a primer on some good basic construction skills, and lots of other good stuff, besides. And remember, it ain't furniture.
All American
All the time
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OP
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Wow!!! Tons of great information guys please keep it coming. I guess I am mostly concerned about the door and windows. I want to construct them to be as water tight as possible and I don�t want hornets taking up residence in there either if that is avoidable.
htduck: What did you not like about the elevators? I was planning on using those.
curdog4570: Why don't you hunt out of them anymore?
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Joined: Jul 2005
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Campfire Outfitter
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No pest strips.....no wasps.
All American
All the time
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The brain is a wonderful organ. It starts the moment you get up and doesn't stop untill you get into the office.
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Camo corrugated fiberglass? Where's ya get that, Woody? I need some! Doc it's just ordinary galvanized corrugated steel siding.We primed it well and worked a little spray paint camo magic that's all. Prefabricated all the panels,hauled it to the river slough and assembled it on site that's why zero maintenance was #1 priority.
You better be afraid of a ghost!!
"Woody you were baptized in prop wash"..crossfireoops
Woody
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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A guy from chitcago would build one like this.
Last edited by 17ACKLEYBEE; 09/19/13.
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What's the weight of that steel siding compared to plywood? Must have been a laborious assembly job out there in the swamp!
"I'm gonna have to science the schit out of this." Mark Watney, Sol 59, Mars
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