My 7 X 57 Seems to shoot well also group size at 100 yards with a 4 X Leupold never adjusted trigger
2 groups with 140 gr fact RP (5 @ 1.56" 4 @ 1.65")
(3 @ 1.962" ) 175 gr Hornady RL 22
140 Nosler AB 3 @ .89"
140 Nosler Part 3 @ 1.22"
154 Hornady 3 @ 1.97"
The Pretty 223 LH Zastafa shoots well also also shot at 100 yards 4 X Leupold Bedding not that great surprised it shot that well. Never touched trigger.
Factory RP 45 gr 3 @ 100 yards 3 @ 1"
53 Gr Hornady Match 3 @ .66"
kk alaska
Alaska 7 months of winter then 5 months of tourists
Those groups sound pretty good. These rifles definitely want to shoot.
After polishing the heck out of my 7X57 and working the bolt a zillion times the action is getting real slick. Going to free float the barrel tonight and see how it does this weekend.
What kind of rings and bases are you using with your two rifles? Those look like Talley's on the M85.
Also, how's the double set trigger on yours? Mine is okay when set but the reach to the front trigger is excessive. The single pull (front trigger only) is very long with about 1/8" or more of creep. Does anybody know how to adjust those? The single M70 trigger is easy, that double set one I haven't figured out yet.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
(What kind of rings and bases are you using with your two rifles? Those look like Talley's on the M85.)
Warne bases on both rifles. Rings are Leupold Rifleman on the 85 I had accumulated. And Weaver steel detachable with 2 pieces of black tape on inside of bottom rings for bolt clearance.
I switched the levers to the opposite side last night. Let me know when you are going to visit the stock guy.
If you figure out the double trigger adjustment let me know I wish I would had of opted for the single trigger. Nice for the range but field application I dont know.
kk alaska
Alaska 7 months of winter then 5 months of tourists
I spoke to Robert at K-Var about getting a single adjustable trigger to replace the double set ones on the Model 85. He emailed Zastava but hasn't heard back from them about what parts might be available.
I'm really happy with the trigger on the 7X57. It's settled in at about 3 pounds but it breaks cleanly.
I'll go visit the stock person but after seeing this stock with the cast-on and cant I'm pretty sure I'll use it and just have the comb, cheekpiece and forend reshaped some. Even though the inletting is not top quality I can live with it, plus the wood and overall configuration is just too nice to discard.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
I received my LH Mauser tonight in 6.5x55. I'm very happy with the finish on the metal, but the stock definitely needs to be refinished. The front action screw on mine was stripped from the factory, someone rounded off the allen head when assembling. I emailed Elliot and hope to get a replacement.
Need some advice... I purchased a 6-24x44 scope with a set of Talley lightweight mounts. The rear sight interferes with the scope and I can not mount it. I attempted to punch out the rear dovetail but it won't budge. I was able to remove the blade but still don't have enough clearance. Does anyone have this problem? How did you remove the rear sight?
How much clearance do you need I put a couple pieces of black electrical tape on the inside of the bottom ring on my 7 X 57 for bolt to clear scope bell.
kk alaska
Alaska 7 months of winter then 5 months of tourists
I need more cleanance than shimming will allow. If the dovetail comes out might be able to clear it, if not I will need to remove the 2 screws and take of the sight base.
Finally got MY rifle and in its current state, appears to be a solid, workman-like Mauser 98 clone. The metal work looks very sound though, which is the most important thing to me. I mainly picked one of these up to use as the basis for a "partial" custom.
Here are my planned mods:
- Install a Mod. 70, 3-pos. safety
- Install a Mod. 70-style trigger
- Fit a new walnut stock and recoil pad
- Swap the factory bottom metal for a new Oberndorf-style unit
Plan on using IOR Valdada's version of EAW scope mounts/rings and top it with a Zeiss Duralyt 1.2-5x36 (non-illuminated).
I just received today a LH Zastava in 458 Winchester Magnum. I'm familiar with Zastava, having owned two rifles made by the company in the past. In the coming days I plan to photograph, disassemble, clean and evaluate it to the best of my ability and then post the info. My first impresion is of a hastily and carelessly put together rifle that reflects the incredibly low price I paid for it. My plans are to improve it cosmetically little by little as a hobby. Let's see what happens.
I just bought the same rifle in RH. You're right about the stock. It looks like it was finished with a wet Lipton tea bag. As single wet Lipton tea bag.
With a bit of help from Bobnob17 (evidently the Serbs aren't too keen on owner's manuals) I took all of the creep out of the trigger but haven't yet adjusted the pull as I want to do a bit of range work first. Nevertheless, unadjusted the trigger is just a tad over 3 pounds. I'll probably wind up leaving it alone, at least until I've run enough rounds through it that it settles down.
But I haven't shot it yet as I'm waiting for bases/rings to come. I'm going to mount a Burris Fullfield 30, 3-9x40, with 3P#4 illuminated reticle in a set of low Warne QD rings on Warne bases. I built a mock-up of the base/ring height and it looks as though the bolt will clear the ocular. I'm not worried at all about the objective.
Yesterday I put the first coat of Timberluxe finish on the stock. The walnut was so dry that it soaked right in. I used a small brush to brush it into the action/barrel inlays, and hand rubbed the rest. But you're right about the wood: there is a nice piece of walnut under that Lipton finish. Too bad about the checkering, though. I'd almost rather it had none at all than, as you put it, "Hurry up, let's go grab a beer." But this is going to be a working rifle, used almost exclusively on wild/feral hogs; which means that it's not going to get particularly babied climbing up and down stands, etc. Anyway, I expect it's going to take several more coats of Timberluxe before everything is sealed and finished. I'll do the range work once I have everything back together.
Oh yes, and this one is in 7x57 as well...number three in the cabinet.
"An archer sees how far he can be from a target and still hit it, a bowhunter sees how close he can get before he shoots." It is certainly easy to use that same line of thinking with firearms. -- Unknown
By the way, and I know this is an ancient thread, but did you ever float the barrel? Any change in accuracy, especially as the barrel gets a little warm?
Of course, the real question is: Did you keep the rifle and the factory stock?
"An archer sees how far he can be from a target and still hit it, a bowhunter sees how close he can get before he shoots." It is certainly easy to use that same line of thinking with firearms. -- Unknown
Yes, I still have it and it still has the original stock, but modified. I took the stock to a local gunsmith and he slimmed it down quite a bit and refinished it. He kept the original lines but just took off some wood most everywhere. Then I sent it to a fellow over in Eastern Idaho to re-checker, he did a simple two panel checkering on the forend and pistol grip.
The smith asked if I wanted Walnut or French Red stain and I chose French Red, thinking it would be that deep reddish hue of old Winchester Model 70's, but it turned out much lighter than I imagined. Should have gone with walnut.
But all in all it's still a nice rifle. And it still shoots great. I free floated the barrel and it keeps 5 shots under an inch which is all I can ask.
Gunnery, gunnery, gunnery. Hit the target, all else is twaddle!
It was a group buy of left hand Mausers arranged on accuratereloading.com. We ordered them last February. They were supposed to be here in 90 days but it ended up taking about 190. Lots of neat calibers � the American standards plus 7X57, 9.3X62, 6.5X55, .375 H&H, .458 WM, plus mini-Mausers in .223, .22-250m even 7.62X39.
They were manufactured by Zastava in Yugoslavia and imported by K-Var in Nevada.
Finally got the .25-06 up and running.
This is what it does with off-the-shelf 100gr Remington junk.
The three horizontal shots are 120 grainers. The holes with the ink whiskers are where I walked the cross-hairs in one shot at a time.
If a wolf or caribou gets away from me, it won't be the gun's fault.
"An archer sees how far he can be from a target and still hit it, a bowhunter sees how close he can get before he shoots." It is certainly easy to use that same line of thinking with firearms. -- Unknown
Thanks for the info. I'm about to order a mini in ..223. What I really want is an XS size action Sako, but at my age, it just does not amortize all that nicely. Anyway, it will live on a Kawasaki Mule, and there is lots of iron to bump against and beat up guns, except those cased until the shooting area is reached. Left cased, removes targets of opportunity such as predators and vermin. Old Scouts got to be prepared.
Jack
"Do not blame Caesar, blame the people...who have...rejoiced in their loss of freedom....Blame the people who hail him when he speaks of the 'new, wonderful, good, society'...to mean ,..living fatly at the expense of the industrious." Cicero