Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Firearms International Washington DC

I'm certain that is the original floorplate and trigger guard assembly, all steel. It looks also like the double set trigger is original, as it fits the factory trigger guard to a T; the guard is longer than those for a single trigger. Very nice.

Look on ebay for Firearms International advertisements/catalogs. I seem to remember one listing "factory" options that included double set triggers.

Kent

Yes, thank you.

Just found out that firearms international started offering double set triggers in May of 1948, and this was made in '48



http://books.google.com/books?id=tu...tional+set+triggers&output=html_text

DOM not Sn. most pre-68 imports were not serial numbered. Many that were had the SN on the barrel. Look at the Husqvarnas that used FN actions, none had the SN on the receiver.

On the right if the receiver- above the DOM (1948) and the FN symbol- there is a 4 digit number that i assumed was the SN.

If it is marked, then yes, that would be the SN. I only saw the 1948 and "assumed".....

Silly me.

Not sure why but putting out the serial number on the web doesn't sit well with me.

I can relate to that.

You have a nice FN made action, provided the barrel was chambered & fitted correctly, it ought to be a shooter. I had a deal on a Musketeer in .264 that fell through. Wish it hadn't.

I don't think the DST's are original but one thing I've learned not to say when it comes to mausers is NEVER.

Good luck with it.

I remember "Ye old Hunter" my first rifle was bought there, a Mauser M-95 carbine in 7X57 for $19.95.

Doc

Way back in the '90s!!! Crap, how old am I!

My brother had a Musketeer in .270 he bought through the mail from the original Gander Mountain company for the grand sum of $108. He also bought an L.M. Dickson scope that fell apart almost immediately.

It had the Sako trigger with a side safety and a hinged aluminum floorplate that he had replaced with steel, I believe before he ever shot it. Nice gun, but he sold it and replaced it with a Sako .270 that weighed WAY too much, nice as it was.

The D.C. area had some great gun stores at one time; the Atlas chain, Ye Old Hunter, Atlantic Guns, and Crawfords.

Pappy,

Atlantic guns is still in business, the rest have been gone for for years.

Doc

1948 version-that should be a c-ring action. Very nice rifle and a good find.

Atlantic was the store I frequented the most. I had a couple of guns re-blued there. The old guy that ran it was real nice and did decent work. This was on Bonifant St. in Silver Spring.
Crawfords, also in SS, was a good store too, but went out of business, probably in the late '70s or early '80s. At one time they had a bunch of arsenal-new 1909 Argentines for sale, complete with test targets for $175. I STILL regret not getting one or two, but who had $175 to spare then?
Atlas was a great store too; had great sales on fishing tackle in the spring. Some guy named Herman bought them out and eventually transformed them from an outdoor store to a jockstrap and tennis racket emporium. A great loss.

Last week i learned that this barrel won't stabilize a 140gr SMK.

I've spoken too soon. Now i need a little guidance as I'm in an unknown territory. When at the range- i was having some difficulty chambering- but more so extracting the spent round. There is some material in the chamber that is scratching the brass when chambering the round- and gouging into the brass once it's fired. I took it to the local gunshop who has a gunsmith who works out of the back. He believed the problem to probably be too severe for just a chamber polishing to fix. Also noted that there was something at the crown of the barrel that was to blame for the keyholing, not the weight of the bullet. He'd charge $75 for the chamber polishing, which may not smooth the chamber enough, and another $75 to recrown the barrel. So I'd be $150 deep with a barrel thats already worn. For him to rebarrel would be too pricey as he doesn't have a 6.5mm reamer so he'd have to bill me to buy one. No thank you.

My intent with this gun is to use it for hunting primarily and secondarily to punch paper. Deer and or elk. I don't want to dump tons of money into it, but I don't want a POS barrel screwed on either.

I have never had a rifle rebarrelled, so any insight is appreciated. Whats a reasonable charge for someone to put on a new barrel?

He doesn't have to buy a reamer, he can rent one from manson for just a few bucks. I bought a short chambered barrel from midway for less than $100 dollars and had a friend rent a reamer and chamber it for me for the cost of the reamer. I haven't done any real load workup on it yet but it shoots 130gr accubonds into about 3/4" for 3 shots. Talk to a different gunsmith. This one sounds like the one here in town. If he can't build full on bench guns or high dollar hunting rigs, he's not interested.

Some steel wool on a bristle brush in the chamber, and a brass screw with some fine valve lapping compound on the muzzle, add an electric hand drill, and you should be ready to go in about twenty minutes.

At least, that's what we would try up here in the Yukon.
Ted

I'm with Yukon. Looks like that old girl hasn't been out of the stock in a long time.
There are a couple of ways to fix her up. If you have a loupe or really good magnifier, take a look at the crown and see if you can find any visible ding. A nice big round-head brass screw, some 600 grit emery paper, some NAPA valve compound. Spit and oil, too.
Since she's not shooting, go ahead and take the glass and mounts off, you should do that anyway to make sure everything is nice and clean, unrusted underneath, then remount properly with loctite and whatnot.
All you need on the crown is a clean edge all the way around, a nice bright ring that looks straight and round. What that will take depends on what defect you now have.
As for the chamber, one thing I have done is drill and tap a case on center and use that as a lapper with valve compound. You can use either a fired or unfired case, on a shaft or Allthread long enough to give you control from behind the action.
Initial insertion you give you clues on where the "bad metal" is, put in the case and wiggle it around, pull it out and look for the scratch area. I would put oil on the neck and shoulder, and lap compound where the bad spot is on the case, give her a "spin" either by hand, or easy with a slow drill lightly chucked.
Might take some doing, but you already have a problem child and it will be hard to make things worse than they are. Use reasonable care and you should end up fine -- or at least learn something.

Also, don't forget N.F. Strebe in Forestville (MD) and the pawn and sporting goods shops (including Atlas) on 7th street, D Street and Pennsylvania Avenue (all NW)!