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I just installed a Yo Dave trigger kit on my 17HMR today. The kit worked very well for a cheap fix. Lightened mine to 2.5 pounds and it could of gone much lighter. The trigger cleaned up beautiful compared to factory. I tried every one of sear pin shims and settled on the green colored one. It seemed the best but honestly I could not tell Much difference between all the shims. Anyone have any insight for me? I feel like I am missing something with them. They all worked safely in my gun and I could only feel the difference between the smallest and largest size shim. I used the heaviest spring in the kit with the adjustment nut on the trigger spring relaxed all the way off. It broke cleanly at 2 1/2lbs with only +\- 2 oz. The lighter springs seemed too light occasionally failing under the bump test.

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Do the bump test with a rubber mallet on the removed action. I've heard of stocks splitting on 452's.

I used the kit in my Ultralux. I stayed with the stock spring and got mine just over 2 lbs and safe. I like the Yo-Dave fine.

Congrats on a fine rifle. I bet the new trigger will greatly improve your accuracy.

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What shim did you end up using on your rifle? Thanks for the heads up on the bump test. Luckily I did not split my stock. I will do as you suggested next time

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I don't remember which shim but it was the only one that would pass the bump test with my rifle. I think they are all different. I picked up a scout a couple days ago and it actually had a good trigger already.

As far as splitting the stock, I think the action on those rifles acted as a wedge where the stock wasn't properly inletted. Possibly the action screws weren't as tight as they should have been , so bumping the butt of the stock on the floor resulted in a split. Still always safer to test the action with a mallet. Also more convenient since if it doesn't pass, you just adjust without having to remove the stock again.

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Each one has a different thickness resulting in a different amount of travel.
Find the one with the least amount of travel that won't slam fire.
I've had some rifles like the blue, others the green and so on.
For the money it is one of the best options out there IMO

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PMTJ is superior to the 'Dave.


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I didn't like that the PMTJ relied on a glued on shim. I had more confidence in a pin with a tube bushing.


What makes the PMTJ better? Aren't they both essentially taking up the slack in the sear just as if you were pulling the triger a set ammount each time?

Last edited by R_H_Clark; 09/08/14.
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Less creep,grit/schit.


Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
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Rifle Basix is more expensive but a damn fine unit IMHO


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I just polished out and re sprung the factory now it's an 8pz trigger and can change springs back and 2# trigger what ever the mrs wants . 2# for hunter class 8oz for standard gun . Tool me about an hour cost pennies

Last edited by ldholton; 09/08/14.
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Originally Posted by ldholton
I just polished out and re sprung the factory now it's an 8pz trigger and can change springs back and 2# trigger what ever the mrs wants . 2# for hunter class 8oz for standard gun . Tool me about an hour cost pennies


Yea, they don't all need the Yo-Dave but if you have way too much sear engagement, the YD or the PMTJ are great options. That road may be smoothed but it will still be long.


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