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even more annoying to me is the tire sensor.

at least its easily fixable I guess.


have you paid your dues, can you moan the blues, can you bend them guitar strings

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Originally Posted by safariman


Not "borderline" at all. It is a royal scam. And the car manufacturerers keep making it more and more expensive and difficult for noon dealer machanics - let alone do it yourselfers- to diagnose or repair anything.


That's absolutely false.

Diagnostic codes make it far easier for a DIYer or a mechanic to diagnose and repair problems. It takes the guess work out.

If you pull the code(s) and do some internet research a competent DIY mechanic can accomplish repairs without resorting to taking it to a shop.

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Originally Posted by CaptEdIII
Originally Posted by Steelhead
What's this inspection process you speak of


Many states have annual or bi-annual vehicle inspection programs for safety as well as emissions systems. Without the inspection you are unable to re-register the vehicle.

-Ken
I try to stay away from those states. I prefer the free ones. wink


We may know the time Ben Carson lied, but does anyone know the time Hillary Clinton told the truth?

Immersing oneself in progressive lieberalism is no different than bathing in the sewage of Hell.
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I checked the engine.

It's still in the same location.


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Originally Posted by GeoW
How did we ever get along without the check engine light? If we could pluck the bulb, we'd be back to where we were before the light and all would be good.


People drove until the engines stopped working, or until they'd done so much damage to them they were not repairable.

[img]http://www.chemistryland.com/CHM107Lab/Exp02_Exhaust/ExhaustVapor.jpg[img]

Modern engines get much better mileage and last longer than engines of years gone by. But at a cost.

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Originally Posted by 16bore
The one in my Taco has been on for 7 years.....


Me too -- $120,000+ miles of check engine light...



"And for the support of this Declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our Lives, our Fortunes and our sacred Honor."

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I'll second the suggestion to get or borrow a code scanner. I kept getting the CEL in my Durango and it turned out to be just the gas cap. (My friendly garage had replaced the original one because it was 12 years old. The new one was the faulty one. Sigh...)


Cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.

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I would too but I'm that sort of guy. The old Explorer does the check engine light intermittently under certain load conditions which I can't exactly pin down. Coaxed the error code out of the box and it basically says nothing. Or rather nothing specific, just that the fuel injector impulse was longer than expected. Absolutely no other symptoms so I try to ignore it but very irritating. I'm old enough to remember when the engine idiot light came on it meant something important.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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I have an '04 Pontiac Montana. Last year the light came on for the front O2 sensor. I could easily look at it but it took an arm with 3 elbows to get at it.

A friend had a 90 something Ford Aerostar with the V6. Changing the #6 plug required pulling the engine. He sold it with well over 100k and 5 new plugs.


β€œIn a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.”
― George Orwell

It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
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Originally Posted by CaptEdIII

That knock sensor system will prevent your engine from pinging (pre-detonation). It is a helpful measure to prevent damage internally (pistons). Think of the $$ you spent as insurance for the future life of the engine.

BTW.. the check engine lite illuminates for a number of reasons, possibly 200+ different permutations. Everyone assumes HO2 sensors because of what they read in magazines or see on the boob tube. This can not be further from the truth.

Also many states will deem a check engine lite a failure for the inspection process.

-Ken

We don't have vehicle inspections in Alabama. Some people say we're backwards but we are usually reluctant to let the government into our lives.

That's the reason I replaced it. This is my last vehicle I ever intend to buy so I keep it in tip top condition. Purrs like a kitten with only 127,000 miles on it. Gets 21+ mpg on the interstate but I only drive 60 mph now due to my eyesight. Just being careful and I don't have to be anywhere so why hurry?

It's a curse I have to endure that I cannot abide having something that is not in good condition. It costs me more to maintain a vehicle than it does most people and I doubt that I'll change if I haven't changed by now.

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Originally Posted by badger
Originally Posted by MColeman
came on in my 2005 GMC pickup. Great, I thought, another $200 gone. I wish. It was two sensors called 'knock' sensors that notes when the engine starts to do something that used to make the valves rattle and it retards the timing. I could have put a piece of black tape over the light because my mechanic said that it wouldn't hurt to drive it. Problem is, though, if something else goes wrong the light won't warn me.

With a long breath (a sigh to you city folks) I axed him how much would it cost. They are located, of all places, under the intake manifold so everything has to come off. The book gives 3 hours and that's what I was charged for but it really only took 2 hours. Total= $600.54 for everything. That took care of my gun show this weekend but, Lord knows, I have enough guns.

Best part of all? My check engine light is off. laugh You know you're living right when the check engine light not burning is one of the highlights of the day. smile


I know its not much consolation Mickey, but a Porsche 993 requires engine removal to be able to remove the intake manifold, then the tin cooling ducts, to get to the knock sensors which are only $245.00 each. Soooo, mid teens in labor plus parts. Oh, and while you're there, might as well replace ignition wires as they also require manifold removal to do, all 12 of them (2 plugs per cylinder) and both caps and rotors too. Wire set is about $900.00 or so......... crazy laugh

Au contraire, my friend. Scripture tells us to give thanks in all things. Not owning a Porsche gives me one more reason to give thanks at night. smile I pray you and the missus are doing well.

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Originally Posted by fish head
Originally Posted by safariman


Not "borderline" at all. It is a royal scam. And the car manufacturerers keep making it more and more expensive and difficult for noon dealer machanics - let alone do it yourselfers- to diagnose or repair anything.


That's absolutely false.

Diagnostic codes make it far easier for a DIYer or a mechanic to diagnose and repair problems. It takes the guess work out.

If you pull the code(s) and do some internet research a competent DIY mechanic can accomplish repairs without resorting to taking it to a shop.

And I have a friend that owns a code reader and does this, or so he claims. I ain't about to start pulling the manifold on a Vortec engine and start replacing things. Not in a million years. Didn't mind spending the $$$ to have them do it and besides, the co-owner of this place is one of the most honest men I've ever known. I trust him totally.

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I had a CEL for many years too. Pissed me off that I had to go to the dealer to figure out what it was. I hate the stealer.

Buddy's simple code scanner said EGR system. Decided to let it ride. Bothered me to see it on the dash though. Never sure if something else had popped up. Finally decided to chase it down when they ramped up smog checks for diesels. Turned out to be a solenoid. Easy fix. $25, a 1/2-inch socket, and 10 minutes. Once I was pretty sure what it was, I called, and stealer wanted 1 hour plus $65 for the part, but of course they "could not be sure that is what it was until they got the truck in house." :rolleyes: Saw the return on buying a good scanner right away.

When I installed a lift pump, got the CEL. Fuel rail pressure. Adjusted the pressure on the lift pump, fixed it. Nice.

My code scanner is an EFI Live unit that also is a programmer. $650. Now I can read and diagnose CEL's plus program different tunes. I like mild tunes, but a tune for towing, one for economy, and one for a few extra safe horses (20%), is nice to have. It is possible to tune out all the emissions crap too, although I would NEVER do that! So when I drive 1500 miles each way on a hunting trip, I load the economy tune, and sip diesel at 75-80 mph. Once I arrive, I load the 20%-over tune, and I billy goat the back roads in 4x4. Leaving back home, load the economy tune again. Love it!

Also, I periodically take a ride with all the diagnostics on and get unbelievable feedback on a whole lot of stuff, some of which is huge like injector balance rates, to head stuff off at the pass. But there is sooooo much data available that it boggles the mind. It's a great way to have some insight into what's going in in your truck, and for a preventative maintenance type of guy, like me, it is invaluable.

Sooooo, I hated CEL's at first, but decided to join them instead of trying to beat them, and with a good scanner/programmer, I think it's better than waiting for a noise to alert you to a problem. Yeah, there will be things I can't fix myself, but at least I will know what I am in for.

Plus, going to the dealer and saying "my balance rate on my #8 injector is out of spec and my injector warranty expires in 30 days. Return rates ares still good, the CP3 is to spec, all the filters are new, and I've done the Gm injector cleaning " is different from "My truck is running rough and smoking."

It's worth getting with the program. They are not going away.





"What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives every thing its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as freedom should not be highly rated." Thomas Paine
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We don't have vehicle inspections in South Dakota either. Partly because we're a little more than reluctant to let government into our lives but probably more because a large minority of vehicles couldn't pass and couldn't be made to pass.

Can't fault a guy for wanting his vehicle in perfect condition, those aren't the guys I pass on the side of the Interstate.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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Auto Zone or the like will check your engine light, tell you what the problem is, and turn it off, Free.

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Mick, take the back roads. 60mph on the interstate is suicide.

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I've got a fairly cheap reader, ScanGuageII ($150 or so) and it has pointed me in the right direction many times on GM, Honda, and Ford vehicles.

Many people talk about vehicles these days and what it takes to fix them. They look the other way when you point out a vehicle today with 225,000 miles still runs very well, while a vehicle from 40 years ago was on its last legs at 100,000 miles. Saying that, I fully admit the cost of buying a vehicle today is magnitudes above the one from 40 years ago.

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Originally Posted by jnyork
Only about 4 years for me in my Tojo Camry.


Was that intentional? grin

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For early PRE obd ll tbi vehicle, you can read your trouble codes without a scanner.
You just need a paper clip or short piece of wire, explanation on how to, and what the codes mean at this link.

http://www.cfm-tech.com/gm_tbi_trouble_codes.htm

Last edited by DesertSandman; 09/16/14.
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Originally Posted by fish head
Originally Posted by safariman


Not "borderline" at all. It is a royal scam. And the car manufacturerers keep making it more and more expensive and difficult for noon dealer machanics - let alone do it yourselfers- to diagnose or repair anything.


That's absolutely false.

Diagnostic codes make it far easier for a DIYer or a mechanic to diagnose and repair problems. It takes the guess work out.

If you pull the code(s) and do some internet research a competent DIY mechanic can accomplish repairs without resorting to taking it to a shop.


Fish head is right, a code scanner makes diagnosing and/or fixing a modern vehicle so much easier for the home mechanic. At the very least, they will help you know what the problem is BEFORE you head to the dealer. If you have and Android phone, you can buy an application called Torque Pro. Then all you need is a Bluetooth reader from Amazon that plugs into your OBDII port and you're set to read your engine codes as well monitor how your engine and transmission is operating while parked or driving. There are similar programs available iPhones. Total cost for the program and the reader is around $40.

And it's not auto manufactures that have pushed this new auto technology. Government fuel economy and emission rules have driven auto manufacturers to squeeze every drop of fuel economy from engines while making them cleaner than ever. OBDII is your friend, read the codes then check the internet for what is wrong. Often you'll find detailed instructions on internet forums on how to repair the problem yourself.

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