Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles lead removeal

Well since it's out there lets put it in perspective. From fr.frogs page
http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm


Lead Removal

Liquid Solution
For really stubborn lead removal try a 50/50 mix of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (the common drug store variety) and white vinegar. Plug the bore, fill it up using a dropper or syringe and let it stand for 2 to 3 minutes. (Do not let it stand for too long.) You may get some foaming so protect the barrel's external finish as this solution is not kind to bluing. Drain and wipe out the black muck that used to be lead and then immediately clean well with bore cleaner.

One special note. The solution works by changing the lead to lead acetate, which is water soluble, so wear protective eye wear and latex gloves to prevent lead poisoning.

Thanks to Joe Sledge for this recipe.

Note
While most people have used this solution without a problem there have been reports of this solution pitting some mild steel barrels. The factors involved in this seem to be the type of steel, the presence of rust in the barrel, and excessively long soak times leading to chemical changes in the solution. I strongly recommend not letting this solution soak more than 2 to 3 minutes.

Pure turpentine has reportedly also been used as a lead remover.

Nothing I really disagree with there except, like I said, I used it a bunch and never saw it damage anything, including bluing.

Tornado brass brush cleans the lands.
Follow with a bristle brush.
Shoot with cast bullets/lube that don't lead.

Anything that chemically eats metal had best be administered light handed.

Never really found a reason to use it myself. What may work for you or I, someone else may or may not screw the pooch.
With good hard cast bullets in the 18 - 20 brinell hardness range and good bullet lube, leading should not be and issue up to 1500 fps without gas checks in a pistol, rifle I would think 1800 + should be good.
Leading issues that can't be cured with Kroil oil, a brush plus a few patches indicates neglect in which case I would be reluctant to get real aggressive with acidic water based solutions.
Just got done cleaning a 41 mag Blackhawk that had 150 rounds of hard casts at 1400 fps using AA9. Took me 30 minutes off and on to get it spic and span using method above.

Kroil oil and Butch's bore shine makes a great lead, copper, moly, graphite cleaner. Let it soak doesn't matter on time as it's oil based. Stuff just works.

Wasn't dissing you, just don't quite agree.

Never shot many lead shotgun slugs I see. When I was doing general gunsmithing my shop was located in a shotgun only zone. The peroxide vinegar solution was worth it's weight in gold.

Cleaning the lead out of a smoothbore slug gun will cause drastic POI shifts until the lead "skids" re-form.
Your customers never figured that out?

Firing lead slugs in a rifled one is, well, stupid....

Any leading requiring a brush or solvent is a fit or finish issue, primarily, and can be avoided.

I'd question what's going wrong if I had to use either.

Yep, I have shot more than a few slugs in my day, Iowa is just across the river. Still never needed to use the stuff. I take it most of your customers didn't know how, or we're just plain to damn lazy to clean their own guns. So they brought em to you. Then you dump acidic chit in their barrels and charge em up the azz for junk work. How nice!

I'd imagine they had the coin for a rifled tube but still used the Foster slugs....

Cleaning smooth bores shot with Fosters or Brennekes is a waste of time, unless you like even worse groups than before the treatment.

Other than keeping plastic or lead out of gas ports, I'd question the need for "lead removal".

Lots of them used lead out of rifled bores and it ain't neccesarily stupid to do so. If either of you jazbo's knew half as much as you think you do, I wouldn't need to tell you that. I shot many rifled slug guns that would print lead Brenneke's into nice tight groups before enough lead built up to degrade accuracy.

I never charged more than a fair price for anything and certainly didn't do any "junk work" so GFY azzhole.

So you shoot 431 diameter bullets out of your 45's too, huh?

Hint: Rotational forces imparted to produce accuracy come from the wad, ESPECIALLY the Brenneke; all lead slugs are undersized in relation to the bore, which is precisely why they are pfukking leading up the rifling you dumbass.

I'm so stupid I use the correct slugs, never have to clean the barrel and never lose any accuracy to begin with.

Penny wise, pound foolish.
Continue your treatments if you think you've found nirvana...

Geezus krist, that post is so full of ignorant nonsense I wouldn't know where to start a rebuttal. For now I'll just say you don't have the first fuggin CLUE what you're talking about and I have neither the time nor patience to educate your stupid azz. Wait, here's a CLUE for you, you stupid bastard. Lead shotgun slugs MAY BE undersize {slug and bore diameters vary retard}precisely until the instant of ignition and no longer. Now go talk about something you're at least remotely familiar with.

I ain't the one scrubbing lead out....but you're welcome, if you can admit it....

If you have no experience with lead removal, you should have kept your big, ignorant mouth shut when asked for advice on such.

Lead removal means something is wrong; you're doing it wrong if you need to scrub out lead, period.

You obviously don't want to listen and I don't know anything, so please tell me why anyone would tolerate scrubbing lead out when there is no reason to have it?

PS Mouths o' dicks, you're also welcome for the removal advise too.

There is actually NOTHING in the above post that is correct. Nothing. I think you'd best stick to the campfire forum. You haven't a thing to contribute here.

Fine dumbass, just answer two simple questions for the OP: Why are you scrubbing/dumping toxic sheit to remove lead out of a rifled slug barrel? What is causing YOUR leading issues?

Hint: Your first failure is that you think a Brenneke obturates...fuggin stupid, plus P plus!

Wrong again dumbazz. You CAN'T shoot lead shotgun slugs without leaving lead in the bore. Makes no difference if it's rifled or smoothbore and at some point it needs to be removed. Period. Care to try again to get something right or are you ready to shut up and go back to the campfire ?

If Brenneke's don't obturate then maybe you can explain why I have a bunch of recovered ones that are smooth on the bearing surfaces EXCEPT for the rifling imprints from the barrel and are also measureably and visually shorter than unfired Brenneke's ? Keep in mind many of those slugs were picked up off the ground in spring after the snowbank they were fired into had melted. IOW they are undamaged other than the engravings left by the rifled barrel they were fired through. I have done just a wee bit more testing with slugs than your average deer hunter. In fact I can pretty well guarantee I've fired more slugs through more guns in one year than your average slug hunter would in ten lifetimes. Oh and another thing you may find enlightening. Many of those recovered Brennek'e no longer have a wad attached. The only Brenneke wads that can be relied on to remain attached in flight are the screw attached felt wads.

Okay, cabbin' [bleep]! Keep scrubbing!






Guess what cunny, this was from a slug round I made myself. 2009 and not a brush or dipsheit concontion has graced its rifled 12 bore, ever. Think it shot three deer this year....two with the same non-leading homemade slug load, the other, a Winchester Supreme.



Keep up the bliss, its entertaining...