Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Long Range Hunting Sight-in distance

Since this is asked on the LR forum......

I see no reason for a 100 yd zero, as I'm not interested in threading any f'ing needle, so I use 200.



Jack Schitt

Agreed. It just took some of us longer than others to reach that conclusion.

Which assumes you'll always have time to use them twisties and in any sitchie-a-shun.

In the summer I go with 100 just because it's easier to get a precise zero and check it after you've dialed up and back down. Once hunting season gets close, 200.

How much more time do you figure it takes to twist a dial than turn the power up and use the reticle?

I have shot a couple elk that gave me about as much time as a flushing pheasant. No time to twist anything.
That's why I use a 250 yd zero.
But zeroing at 100 and carrying it set at 250 would work too.
And give you the ability to thread the needle better in heavy cover. May have to change my SOP.

That's what I do with turrets.

Zero at 100, dial to 250 when it's time to start hunting.

Model70Guy, I guess if you zero for (minute of deer) most folks would not notice temp and humidity variations. However when shooting at a 1" bulls eye at 300,it is noticeable.Took my 1000 yard rifle to the 600 yard range and noticed a change on the second day we shot with only a 30/40 degree change. Reloader 22 changes a lot more than Varget for me. Most of the time a 1 to 2 inch change of POI on the side of a deer won't make a lot of difference to the deer. I was not saying any ones gun was not zeroed to their satisfaction. I shoot a 160 Sierra game king in my 7mag, 7STW and the 7mm ultra when using them for hunting. I still like the old 264 mag for my area.What caliber F class rifle do you prefer ?

In my 300WM i use a 300 yard. Its a good adjustment to 400. Its 3.50-4 inches till 300 and at 400 its 8 inches low so I adjust for it. After that I use BDC.

Depends on the rifle and scope. Mostly 200 yards but occasionally 300 as it gives me a little more distance in one revolution of the turret.

I don't see my POI shifting all year either.

I missed this one, but better late than never.

I like the STW as well, have 4 of those now. Since I generally just use them as general purpose zero to 600 heavy sporter, none of those are even wearing a turret scope at the moment. One has a CDS, and two B&C reticles. The last one has a Zeiss plex reticle and I'll swap that out for a Mark 4 one of these days and think about VLDs. Since for the use I put them to a hunting bullet is well suited 3 out of the fourare using 160 grain Accu-bonds. I use the same bullet in my 7 Rem as well. I have a lot of fun with my .264 Win Mag too, even though logic does force me to admit that anything it can do a 7mm or .300 can do better.

For the most part I shoot F-Class with my long range hunting rifles, since I like my shooting to have a point. I use a .300 Win in Open, and a 1-8 twist .223 in F-TR. That one may not have a real point, come to think of it.

The last match I shot was a modified format, with distances of 600, 800 and 1000 yards. We used the 300 yard target at 600, and 500 yard target at 800 and 1000 to give a 1/4 MOA V-bull and a bit of extra challenge. We reasoned that since we invented F-Class the rules are whatever we wanted them to be, and allowed muzzle-brakes to let the big .338s play. I used my Defensive Edge Canyon Rifle in .338 Edge for that match.

On a hunting rifle I zero for a +-3" MPBR. That means a centre-of-shoulder hold on a pig, goat or deer out to near 300y for most rifles.

I'd hate to be stuffing around with turrets anywhere inside that range. Every second wasted is another chance for the game to bolt.