This brass is being sold as once fired Lapua Brass, however the headstamp is not any of the standard Lapua headstamps I have seen before. Can anyone verify if this is in fact 1st quality Lapua manufactured brass ?

send an email to Lapua, they should know.

Couldn’t post what the other guy did.

Your link doesn't work as posted. After figuring out why, I see the pic below. Are you referring to #8? If so, it's not the same as the OP's.

His post was kinda hazy but “L” inside the logo is missing. I can’t figure out why the attachment managers doesn’t work for me

Edit it if you're not past the time limit and take out the http://. Leave in the https://.

I have a question, I just bought some Lapua brass and in the primer hole the pocket is raised up like a dome, does this brass take a different primer?

Send a pic....might need uniforming. Does the primer fit ok ?

That's the best answer. Don't know if the OP is getting a stellar deal on that brass or what? Personally I'd move on and buy something different, if unsure about manufacture. There are other brands out there that will work just fine. Trust me..

I heard that you don’t have anneal Lapua!

Sounds like it was made for Berdan primers. Does it have two small flash holes on either side of the "dome"?

That’s what l thought at first but l never saw commercial brass berdan primed.

Common in commercial brass made for European sales.

This is where I found the manufacturer of some 7.62x39 brass I have. I briefly looked for the headstamp in the op but didn't see it.



https://cartridgecollectors.org/headstamp-codes/

The latest Lapua brass is properly annealed by Lapua. I like this brass though the price is a bit hard to choke down. From what I can tell Lapua uses an alloy with a bit less zinc so it is softer like Rem vs Winchester. I can tell the difference just by color as the more zinc yields a case that is brighter. The higher zinc % the more rigid and much more easily machined. One isn’t always better than the other. You can easily see the difference in a case trimmer and feel the difference as the higher zinc% the shorter and sharper the chips where less zinc more copper often leaves longer tailings. I’ve alway found Lapua fire forms with sharper cleaner shoulders and less pressure

Rick

The brass only has one flash hole, I can not seat the primer in fall the way they will not chamber in the gun.

Where’s that pic?

I can text you a picture

No thanks

Do you have a hard time seating a primer?

Yes the center of the dome prevents the primer from being seated flush with the base of the head of the brass

I saw a pic of what you're talking about..... you need to uniform the base of the pocket with a primer pocket uniformer

I can't click on your link to open it

you need to uniform the base of the pocket with a primer pocket uniformer

OK

I recommend this one

https://www.lymanproducts.com/primer-pocket-uniformer-lg-sm

Post up a pic of yours sitting next to a note that say's "I actually use this". Sign the note with your handle.

OK, thanks

Another one that has no life

Using a primer pocket uniformer tool is always a good idea. Primer pockets and flash holes are punched during manufacturing so they aren’t always as perfect as they should be but they always do conform to loose Saami specs. If they were machine cut and bored they’d be more uniform but this is costly. Euro primers are known to vary a bit from our Saami specs so occasionally you run into seating problems. A carbide uniformer primer tool will cut a clean pocket base to accept primers to the correct depth. But if you’re going to really do it right you should de-burr the flash holes too. If you have the means look down the mouth of a case or two and you’ll see when they punched the flash holes it creates pedals or fingers that extend into the case. These create obstacles for the primer flash flame. This means instead of a uniform ignition flame it’s disturbed so some of the powder gets hit harder than other parts. A primer flash hole tool is nothing more than a tapered drill bit so with some creative thinking it’s not hard to create

Now some on this forum think I’m way over the top talking crap but I’m not just blowing smoke I’ve learned from some of the best since I was a young man. Anyway it’s information so it’s up to the reader to determine whether my comments are worth filing away or throw out.

Back to this Lapua brass. It’s a softer less zinc alloy and therefore is a bit easier to deform. Brass flows under pressure which is its biggest benefit as cartridge brass. Only the chamber walls contain it to the correct dimensions plus or minus. Softer brass primer pockets under high pressure loads can distend a bit maybe not much but it doesn’t take much to affect primer seating. Everybody knows about cases with sloppy primer pockets after lots of loads. Now then primer cups, the metal cup that holds the anvil and igniter substance, are of different hardness this is a known fact with comp shooters who set up their pistol and revolvers with light triggers which means lighter main spring and hammer force. These guns need reliable ignition with lighter hits so they use either Federal or Winchester primers who have softer cups. There is lots of hammer oz. settings for different primers. Harder cups will not crater as easily as softer cups so with higher pressure you may not always see the typical evidence of too much pressure. Some Euro primer cups have been known to have very hard cups. So it’s possible that your Lapua cases were subjected to some higher pressure that actually distended the pockets and not the primer cups.

Just Spitballing here with too many years stuck on this subject
Rick

I tried some of this brass in 7-08. DO NOT BUY IT!!!

A lot of the cases have ejector marks in the brass head and primer pockets are loose. I have contacted the seller to see what he will do about it. I will let the members here know how that goes.

Seller guarantees brass. Full refund plus initial shipping. Return shipping on me, no return of sales tax.

That about sums it up. Like I said earlier, I'd steer clear of it. You guys thinking you always need Lapua need to get out and try other things.

The man has a point. You recommend...?

Appreciate the responses. The brass in question is once fired 7mm-08 brass listed as Lapua, the picture on Gunbroker is that exact poor quality photo but the brass is selling for a low price. Just not sure whether its the same quality Lapua or Lapua at all.