I'm thinking of adding them to the store. What do you think about them? Good, Bad, Indifferent?

I have a NXS 2.5-10x24 on my AR and think NF builds a scope of unbelievable quality.

Lots of people like them. They are heavy.

best scope i've got by a long shot

zero stop
illuminated reticle
first focal plane
etc

I have a couple of NFs. They are well built. Their glass is not the best that I own, but overall I am pleased with the value of NF.

Mine are not safe queens either. Many may buy a top end piece of gear just to say they own brand x. Those people would be shocked to see the wear marks on some of my gear.

That being said, while there may be wear marks, I do not abuse my gear.

I guess you need to know your market to know if carrying NF is a smart move or not. Most in the gun community do not spin turrets or know a cosine angle from a spare tire, though if you read much on the net,it may seem like they do.

Dependable, but wouldn't want to drag my rig up and down valleys.

I believe the glass is better than my Leupold VX3 and Zeiss Conquest in comparison.


NFscoperings by wadevb1, on Flickr

I like the Nightforce BR scope that I had. Most of the benchrest and F-Class shooters I see at my club have NF scopes, or high-magnification Leupolds. They are quite heavy, though, and I wouldn't want to carry one around all day. I had a 5.5-22 BR model.

On my little Pierce 6.5x47 Lapua I run the 2.5-10x32 with the NP-R2 (2 MOA hash marks) reticle. I really like it. It's dead nutz reliable, returns to zero EVERY time. Will get me out further than I have any business shooting with a 140 VLD @ 2920 fps which is 1140 yds so far.




Back in September I won the Utah State Sniper Shoot with my BIG 6.5x47 topped with the 5.5-22x50mm with the NP-R1 (1 MOA hash marks). Same, same! Even better with the zero stop and now the newer scopes all come standard with the high speed elev turrets. Good enough to shoot 1/2 MOA groups and better out at 1k.

Alan

I see them sitting a long time in shops, the stock turn over is slow. The bigger ones I have no experience with, but I would buy a S&B before a NF. The smaller ones with the 24 and 32 mm objectives don't make sense because when you crank them up to 10X with a 2.4 or 3.2 mm exit pupil. I have a 1-4 and its a $900 scope not the $1200 or so they ask for it. It IS a true 1X and it IS very tough regards zero, the adjustments are accurate.

What kind of rings/mounts do you have on the Pierce rig? Nice rifles, btw!

I went ahead and closed the deal yesterday. This gun shop business sure is an education.

Nightforce is only about 50 miles down the road from the our shop. I get the scopes in used about every two months or so. The do not linger in the store. I hope to do as well with the new ones.

Wilson Combat is another upper end product we carry. They sit for a bit, but then somebody walks in and buys one. Even though I could turn over a dozen Jennings in the time it takes to sell one Wilson, I feel much better about being able to provide a quality item. So far, I have been able to avoid selling the lower end products.

The biggest obstacle with selling the good stuff is that I sell it for less than the lowest price I am allowed to advertise at. So a tip for all of you, make an offer on the upper end stuff. The dealer may be more than willing to deal, but he may also be hampered by the manufacture's lowest advertised price limit.

Both pics of the Pierce have Farrell 30mm alum rings. The difference is the first, full length pic has a custom Farrell 20moa steel picatinny base that was cut in two. I wanted lighter and so had Pierce, themselves, install their 20moa 1-pc alum picatinny rail.

Alan

good luck to you in your business!

I may be in the market for another used 3-15

eclectic,

I have had three Bushnell 6500 4 1.2-30X50 and four Swarovski z5 5-25X52 and one Nightforce 12-42X56.. There is no comparison. The Nightforce is head and shoulders better than either of the others in observing detail or low light when they are all on the same magnification setting. No compareison at all.

Interesting....


This guy ate it one minute before end of legal light using the aforementioned x32 at 10x last week in NE. 382 yards AMAX.





This one got it right at daylight about three or four minutes after legal light a couple days later also at 10x... 369 yards AMAX.



Either could have been killed on 6x. Sometimes using the item in question to kill things illuminates the subject far better then imagination....

Congrats on a couple of good looking bucks! Even more congrats wit the condition of that rifle was "earned" through honest hunting wear!

I appreciate it but that rifle has been abused. I'm not afraid to "test" equipment..... grin

Good on you! I hope to get to use some of my guns enough so that they show 1/2 that amount of wear! Gotta have goals...

Is the tape on the elevation turret for anything more than just more 'gription'?

It's marked in 100 yard increments for quick reference.

Was just over on Snipershide.com looking in the Hunting section. Their's a topic on George Gardner, owner of GAP custom rifles. Their are pics of him, his 7WSM rifle and on top of it is a NF 2.5-10x32mm. Here is a guy, who has the money and knowledge to build/buy about any rifle he wants and he picks the NF 2.5-10x32mm. To me, it just says something about him and his great choice of optics.

Alan

To me, it says he has better eyes in low light than I do.

Gotcha! That's a "CDS" knob I can afford...

It really doesn't work that way. It, any scope, works when there is enough light to allow it to work as it is adjusted.
I've seen nights where a scope or binocular with a 4mm exit pupil will work. And I've seen legal twilight where an optic, either a rifle scope or a binocular, would just barely work with a 5mm exit pupil.
That means the scope in question will work even when it has to have a 5mm exit pupil, but the user can't use 8X. He has to use 6X. Any more magnification and the scope simply goes black. You'll see nothing.
The other problem is the retilce. If it's a fine, tactical sort, they are often unusable even if the image is still present. E

Just got back from having a look around for a big guy in our late four point season here. Right at the beginnning of shooting light a doe and a fawn came out on the gas line I was on and crossed into the trees on the other side.

Quite suddenly they came ripping back out with their ears back and ran back into the forest from the side they came out on. I ranged where this had occurred (391 yards) and then waited. Maybe 30 seconds later two coyotes came out using that kind of loping trot they use that eats up ground.

I had a rest and led the first one a little using the 3rd hash mark on my unilluminated npr2 reticle and double lunged him.

This was absolute first light on 10x power. This picture was taken with a flash as the camera thought there was not enough light.



As an actual user of this scope and reticle in lowlight I can say it works just fine - just as many other scopes will work fine.

edited.

Not everyone has the same eyes Coaster...

Have you used one?

As a matter of fact I did (2.5-10x32). And guess what, it didn't do what I need a scope to do in low light.

Think it's a great scope, but it didn't perform for me in low light. Which wasn't a surprise with the 36mm objective.

Cool. You got any pictures of the animals?

More than you care to look at.

Really? I would love to see a truck full of critters that you killed using the little Nightforce! Be curious to hear your thoughts on it. What was your results as to the small objective keeping you from killing animals in legal light? How was the durability? Did you test the adjustments?



Thanks!

Unless the recticle is laser etched and can be lite such as most NF scopes.

Not with the nightforce clown. One hunt told me what I needed to know about the low light capability of that scope. There is better out there in that regard and I choose not to limit myself.

HINT: It's about using equipment that will effectively kill stuff in a variety of situations.

For me, Dark timber with deep ravines doesn't make the 32MM objective exactly shine in legal light.... If you actually hunted you might be able to see 1st hand how the smaller objective is a limiting factor in many low light situations.

If you need more instruction I'll be around.

JM

You saved a deer there, for sure. Ive seen them stay on a deers trail a while before it gave up trying to get away. I'd sure like to know how much you figure the lead was on that dog you got at 390.

I built a chart on a spreadsheet last fall after I missed a nice bull elk on my fly in. On one axis it has mph and on the other yards. I plug bullet velocity and I get approximate lead.

The guess work comes in with how fast you figure the critter is running. I guessed the dogtrot at about 5mph which gave a lead of about 8 inches at 2600ft/sec.

So my point of aim was about an inch or two ahead of the coyotes chest.

I thought this thread was about Nightforce?.... So you don't have more pictures then I would care to look at of animals you've killed? And you bought a $1,200+ dollar scope, used it one day in the "dark timber" and "deep ravines" (of Miss. and LA?) and determined it wasn't sufficient to kill with because of it's objective size?

Now I'm just starting out in this whole killing thing, but I would think that one wouldn't need nor use a scope set on 10x for "dark timber"... The little bit I have done says that using it set on more like 2.5x makes more sense thereby giving an exit pupil of 12.8mm. Matter of fact one could run all the way up to 6x and still have over 5mm. Of course I don't actually hunt, only being out for 39 days this fall and counting, across three states with only eight animals, and of course I did post pics of two gnarly old bucks killed in the last two weeks on a public land backpack hunt where I had never set foot before with said scope, so I am always ready for instruction on shooting and killing.




It wouldn't matter if this thread was about NF, Leupold, Ziess, BSA or Bushnell. I believe most people, when soliciting opinions, want feedback from actual users. I know I do.

quick question, does anyone know what the parallax is set for at the factory?

thanks.

You need instruction and a lot of it.

You guess too much.

Why would I buy a 2.5x10 Nightforce for 1200 bucks when a bud has one on his gun that I can use to see if I liked it or not?

Hmmmm. You guessed wrong once again.

Here is another tidbit for you to contemplate. The reason he let me use his rifle is because he wanted to sell the scope to me...

Why was he trying to sell the scope you ask?....

Because he hunts the same places I do and didn't like the fact that the scope didn't do as well in low light as his 6X42 Leupold.

I tried it and didn't like it. Simple as that. Now if you want to spend your 1200 on one and give it to me, that will be fine. I'll sell it for 1K and go buy something else That fits my eyes and the way I hunt.

I've guided hunts for years. Bow hunted for over 30 years and I've been asked to use calls by more than one company before they came to market...Deer and Duck.

I've posted picks all over this site of big whitetails I've killed buddy, go look for 'em. It will give you something to do and get you out of the adults hair.

So excuse me if I'm not real impressed that you hunt some public land a few days out of the year.

But I do find it amusing that you cannot except the fact that some people who hunt in dark holes may want a little larger objective in order to maximize their legal shooting time.

If somebody bolted you to Einstein, you would still be a imbecile.

I know nothing about the "dark" in the South.

Up here, we get +1/2 hr each side of the day, and with the low clouds and big trees and valleys and so on, not to mention a dark messy background (as opposed to say dry tan grass), it can be damn dark during "legal" light.

I'm always looking for "the" scope for low light. I'd be real hot to try say a 2.5-10x42 or 44mm Nightforce. Wish one existed.

If the reticle is appropriate for the job, are are saying that a 32mm scope of said quality would not be adequate to use throughout legal shooting hours in low light?

"If somebody bolted you to Einstein, you would still be a imbecile."

I like your style!

BTW I have the 12X42 and the 5.5X22. Fantastic scopes. I was all hot to get a 2.5X10 and like you a friend let me use it for a couple of weeks. I just couldn't warm up to it, the eyebox seemed small and it was a lot darker than I though it should be.

Lefty C

I have one Nightforce scope that I put on my Remington 700 SPS tactical .308.
Now that being said I have only had it for a few months now, but I really like it. It's a really clear scope and as soon as I can afford another one, I will buy one. It also illuminates for low light conditions. The first time that I took it to the range I was pleasantly surprised.

There is adequate and there is optimal. 2 different things with a lot in between.

well, there you go--a 32mm in low light certainly is adequate.

as to the optimal side of things--what is your low light scope pick in considerment of your vast experience?

Jeff, I hear you, I'd bet HEAVY if/when NF makes a 40-42 obj. in that size, ALOT of 32 scopes will be up for sale

There must be a reason 40/42 is the common size and many opt for 50, though prefer low and compact. The former will fit well low like the 32 and I think will transmit more light.

NO Doubt about it, optics is something that is not 'cookie cutter' as we all see different, and have different needs for how each uses their rifles.

No doubt some equipment works better/worse for various individuals.

Funny thing about the 'campfire... Attitude on this site is, a 32mm is not big enough for low light, but if you run a 50mm you are an idiot because it is too big. So I guess only a 40mm is good for lowlight?

Can't KNOCK a 50 for low light, if one accepts the higher mounting and bulk/weight that goes along with it.

In a 4-14 a 50mm beats the 40s at 10x and higher at Dusk, based on my samples. As mentioned above, at 10x and higher, my fov blacked out at the end of a Tx hunt w/a 4-14x40. Texas unlike LA here, is much more open and light seems to be more available vs deep woods around here. Used a 6x42 w/HD to good effect long ago - a good combo for woods hunting.

Yet for me, most of my hunting has gone well w/simple 4 and 6x scopes so 10-12x is all I'd want for a game rifle.

Baskin Robbins sold many flavors...ALL made customers happy.

50mm at 3.5 X is pretty damn good. If you can't use that setting it's to dark to hunt.

Tom, if you don't want me using anything but Nightforce 2-10x36, buy me one.

Obviously, you are one of those people who are satisfied with "just getting by". I'm not.

I don't want to barely feed my family, I want to provide a good home for them.

I don't want to just get by at work, I want to do the best job I can.

I don't want to use marginal equipment for the way I hunt, I want what works well for my eyes and hunting conditions.

Are you able to follow this line of thinking Tom?

I have my doubts. In the service, we had a name for folks who chose to get by doing the least possible.

"Rag-bags". Are you a Rag-Bag Tom?

JM

I will stick with my 50s and 56mm scopes, despite the opinion of the masses. Hunting deer that are almost completely nocturnal in deep woods on overcast days requires more light. Especially if you are hunting a certain age class of deer and not just any dink.

I've done fine in dark conditions with the 7mm exit pupil afforded by a 6x42. I'm not really keen on shooting far enough to need more magnification than that when it's dark enough to need the 7mm pupil at the same time.

42 and 44MM objectives have worked well for me over the years.

They provided enough light and mounted low on my rifles.

I'm about ready to try a 50MM though.

The last time I was able to get out the 44mm Z5 Swaro and 45mm VX-7 Leupold held up extremely well when it got very dark. A good bit past legal light. No 56mm stuff needed for me, even 50mm really.

You can't make this chit up.......


















A month ago you knew nothing about the Nightforce. Not only that you admit you are clueless about "newer" scopes. Where's my instruction?












So you are worried about brightness on a 32mm objective when you wont shoot past 100 yards? When I need a 50mm scope to shoot deer at 35 yards I won't call you.












Priceless. Worried about "stuff" getting in the housing on an M1. You going to provide instruction on your zero experience on your actual use of M1's?














Again, you are so worried about "brightness" at 10x when you won't shoot an elk past 300 yards?











I thought "brightness" and exit pupil were so important to you????










This was with a 2.5-10x32 correct?













Jesus titty christ! You don't even know what parrallax is yet you call people names and offer instruction?













I'm new to the long range scene, can you please help me? Maybe some instruction on wind drift, Mils, MOA, dialing, parrallax, shooting deer at 35 yards, reticles, turrets, US Optics, and "newer" scopes???????





Thanks!

^ouch!

Laffin,

You can take things out of context and post half quotes till the cows come home.

I was interested in possibly buying a NF 2.5-10, so I asked some Q's, then I tried one before I spent 1200 on something that wouldn't work.

Only an idiot like yourself would not understand the logic here.

Sorry, but It still doesn't change the fact that I used your beloved NF 2.5-10 and didn't like it or that other scopes provide better low light capability.

Something you still fail to understand. Meds wearing off again?

As far as shooting at bucks past 450 yds. that's a personal choice. I'm not big on wounding bucks and take high percentage shots within my ability.

Another lesson you have failed to learn.

If you had ever done any LR shooting you'd understand reading wind starts getting very difficult past that range.

One more lesson you obviously haven't learned.

The parallax comment was addressed at someone who had earlier claimed that adjustment was not needed at longer distances..It was a stab at him, like I've done to you on here..

The 2 clubs I deer hunt at do not include the farms we yote hunt every year. Once again you assume schit that is incorrect.

Never hunted elk, wanted to get some opinions from those who had and and used the 7-08. Not sure what asking a question about how a certain caliber performs on game has to do with a NF scope, but I'm sure you will figure it out.

"I hunt public land and killed 2 deer. I can't understand why someone would want to use a scope that provided better light gathering capability in certain applications, even when it is explained to me repeatedly. Am I just a dumbass?"

Afraid so.

Funny how you left this one out of your search...

427 yds. with an H&R handy rifle no less.

Spectacular!
Points awarded for the stock ammo sleeve...nice touch.

laffin

I have a couple nightforce scopes, 1 2.5X10X32 with the mildot and 2 3.5X15X50 and love them. The 2.5X10 I love it and have had no issues with its light gathering morning or evening. I did however switch to the mildot from Np r1 reticle because the mildot for me anyway shows up a little better. I love the Nightforce scopes and IMO they a far superior to Leupold and the like.
I know that they are heavier but they are more durable, better lenses and better made than most anything else unless you want to drop a grand more for S&B or the like.
If a few ounces kill me on a scope, then I am not going to a lighter scope I'll just get in better shape.
Also with the right rings bases like say Badger I have no issue with the mounting height. Their regular one or two piece bases and their low rings and the 50mm bell will clear no problem, at least with my Remingtons.
I have also used the the 2.5X10 that is my buddies he has on an AR while spotlighting yotes and varmints and have never had an issue with it in that role either for what its worth.

I wouldn't mind trying a 2.5-10x32 with the NP-1 reticle but the thin hair is a bit of a deal breaker for me.

They are great scopes. Durable with consistent adjustments. I wanted the 2.5x10, but I found that when in dark timber looking across or down into a ravine that the scope was noticeably darker than other scopes I own and use.

That was the only deal breaker for me. Had I been able to see, I would have one right now.

It lights up...

Right, right. Until I really need it, and, it doesn't.

"It lights up..."

Jeff the reticle lighting up does not make the scope brighter. It actually can work against the scope gathering light to see what your shooting at.

I love my two NF scopes for LR target shooting. I can resolve 6MM holes at 500 meters in good conditions....but to me the 2.3X10 was dark and had a small eyebox.
I would have bought one in a heartbeat, but I just plain didn't like it for big game hunting.

Lefty C

Lol, true. I completely agree that the reticle is way too thin. And lighting up doesn't help, probably, in brighter light but in the tangled stuff.

It's an odd scope. I could buy one WHOLESALE right now, and I'm not tempted even a little.

Funny how even a girl with a chitty rifle can so easily connect them dots which you find impossible....










The "instruction" you're giving me on wind drift, Mils, MOA, dialing, parrallax, shooting deer at 35 yards, reticles, turrets, US Optics, and "newer" scopes is "priceless"


Though I do shoot a bit..



and pop more then a few rounds of MK262 MOD1 (feel free to google)...




Been a tough week... only public land dinks so far...










Think I'll splatter one tomorrow in your honor...

Take the long way to school much??? I can just see you there with your abacus and note pad... "now he's 37.2 yards away in the dark timber and ravine, with a 6.4mph wind at .12 value.... and I only have 7.3mm exit pupil. hmmmm...."

Dink bucks I'd have to pass on, but good enough for a beginner. Congrats.

But what is funny, is you trying to shoot sideways thru that hole.

Thanks for posting that pic. laffin.
Instruction on proper prone position may prevent the ocular from impacting the side of your nose Poindexter...

The hits just keep on coming. Please post more pics as they do a much better job of proving you a dumbass than anything I can post.

My note above was an effort to explain how to use Mils/MOA and convert them to a fellow member who asked.

I'm betting you wrote it down and are ciphering at this very moment...

The pics of your [bleep] up prone position, dink collection and deranged smurf stickers are truly priceless.

Thank you Long Ranger!

Laffin.

JM notice the the bolt handle is up and the rifle is on the ground. That is perfect form for that technique. Designed to shoot under low barricades such as cars. Try it some time you will see how difficult is really is. A micro dot gets mounted alot to make it easier than shooting using you main optic. They are respectible (not monster) bucks on public land in my neck of the woods.

That said the Nightforce optics are more than a few ounces heavier. I beleive buy the glass that YOUR eyeball says thats the one. Also the glass needs matched to the platform. NF is not an optic you put on a NULA. It is IMHO the best Benchrest scope going. The new low power modles would be perfect on an AR platform. Nightforce is a high end optic. They hold value as good or better than Luepold.

One time I had a grand burning a hole in my pocket. Decided I was going to get new Binos. I went to a local shop that carries everything from Simmons to Swaro. I was able to step out the back door and look through them all. MY EYEBALLS liked the Nikon Monarchs the best. Go figure, I would not have taken that bet.

Hi BP,

Being @ a 90 degree angle from the direction your weapon is pointed is not a recipe for success in LR shooting for most folks. I do understand your point.

That position could only be useful when shooting around a corner.

But shooting from under a vehicle in that manner is more difficult and provides less protection, as the entire length of your body would be exposed should someone try to skip a dozen or so rounds under the car.

Now if Formudiculous was playing army and pretending there was a wall there or he was in a building, the position is still incorrect as his bucket head is still exposed to wider angles of entry by being so close to the window.

The sensible method would be to engage the target in the correct prone position, as far away from the window or opening as possible that still would allow the shooter the necessary field of view.

Lying sideways with the barrel hanging out the window like a dick out of a zipper may look cool... like the smurf stickers on his stock, but I'll have to pass on that one as well...

Best,

JM

I should stop.... but I can't....


Who could forget this jewel....




Wow. Is that a new fangled scope with differing click values per power setting? How does that work?




So you don't know what parallax is, think that dirt is bad for M1's, won't shoot past 450 yards (what happens at 451?), hunt the dark timber and ravines of Mississippi for whitetails at 35 yards, don't know the difference between reticles and turrets, but you know about snipers? Cool!

Formudiculous...You ignorant ass.

Mathman knew i was refering to the ballistic reticle and that is established in the thread you cite.

I'm flattered you spend all your time reading my posts. I hope you learned something....like how to shoot prone.

How can you possibly research all my posts and be out in the woods for 39 days hunting public land whitetails as you claim?

More lies...

I find this one especially amusing..




600 yds with a 95 gr. .243. Let's see... that would be close to 80" of drop with a whopping 540 ft. lbs. with a 200 yd zero, which is probably as far as you can reliably hit a parked bus.

I assume there was no wind that day...

But in case there was just a 5 mph breeze, you had to dial or hold for close to 19" of windage.

Which was it?

You're completely full of chit wannabe.

Thanks again!

I think they gather light very nice. I have several zeiss scopes and they gather light better than they do. Not even close to a schmitt but half price.

Naw. Took all of five minutes to pull those jems. Admittedly it were a waste as there was zero chance you had a clue to begin with.

Feel free to comb my paltry 125 posts to see where I've needed someone to help so as to know the difference 'tween "clicks" and reticles.....







I know you can't read sign, but that'd be the craziest 95 grainer I've ever seen....


Only the clueless work in inches, ft-lbs, and zero at 200 when going long. Not much easier when shooting 600 then to zero for 600....

A bullet pic.

Impressive.

It's been fun formiduculous, but you've proven yourself full of schit from the get go and unworthy of education.

You keep making make your 500 ft.lb. fantasy shots using your amazingly ass-backwards prone position.

Feel free to add dinks and stickers to your dreams.

later.

OMG! My turrets are dirty!!!!

Laffin.

I guess you did kill one in my honor. I'm glad the education worked.

Congratulations bud. I would like half of the meat.

Beats the hell out of what I have been doing the last 3 days...

JM

JM,

I got to ask. What or how much sniper experience do you have?

Alan

Arguing with me...?

No,

Having a former super model trying to sit on my face for the last 3 days...

I'd rather be in the woods.

I shot Bin Laden out of an AWACS with a .243

JM,

I've sat by for days watching you spew your crap! I now know you're full of it!

First off, snipers DO practice shooting in odd positions. How do I know? I practice it about every month; shooting through a port that forces one to hold their rifle 90 deg to the right or left, forcing the shooter to place their bodies in weird positions. I also compete in and SO for the Utah State Snipers Shoot of which I took 5th place last year and top Precision Shooter this year. For you to claim a sniper would actually expose himself shows how little you actually know about it.

And then....

If you don't believe a 243 could kill at 600 yds, you've got a lot to learn. Good budd of a budd of mine killed a bull on the Monroe last year with a 95 grain Berger VLD from a 243 improved at 850 yards. He hit it in the middle of the lungs and it blew them up like a bomb. Bull was chasing cows and filled up his lungs with blood very quickly and died within 50 yards.

That same budd of mine, killed his bull at 1084 yds last month with his 338 Snipetac. He took 4th place overall in the same Utah State Sniper Shoot back in Sept.

If you don't like the NF scope in question, say your peace and be done with it. To keep constantly attacking a guy for stuff you apparently know little about, is going beyond sharing an opinion.

Alan

Hello idiot.

First, I made a comment that the NightForce 2.5-10x36 was dim in certain applications for me and I believed there were better choices in those applications.

I never said the scope was junk or criticized anyone else for using it. I simply stated that I didn't find it to be an ideal hunting scope. Many others on here said the same thing.

You need to go back an re-read clown.

My comments on the pics were directed at the gent who suggested shooting under a car at a 90 deg. angle. Obviously, that's not where the position is most useful unless there are some other circumstances to be considered.

As far as lobbing 95 grain bullets with 500 ft. lbs of energy at game animals over 600 yds away, There are certainly better head stamp choices for that kind of work when you consider wind drift and down range energy.

Most hunters do there best to ensure a humane kill and use the proper equipment to minimize the risk of wounding and losing an animal.

I understand that a [bleep] up hit made by the world famous Utah State Sniper team on a paper target just results in hurt feelers, but to responsible folks who actually hunt, the consequences are a little more serious...

That all of the above escapes you is not surprising.

Sorry your puzzy got hurt in all this. Maybe a hug from your crackshot buddy will make you feel better.

JM,

Three words.

You're an....... IMBECILE!

That's a compliment coming from the best shot in Hobble Creek Canyon, Utah.

laffin.

quit fighting, it's Christmas


Oh and you guys can go in and buy a NF 5.5-22X50, speed turrets and Zero Stop NPR1 ret. for my stocking! Wait, better put it under the tree, it's too heavy, my stocking will fall off the mantel. At least the scope won't break!!

Good entertainment don,t stop, both present good points between the shots.

I have one on my .223 AR. Works. You can try it whenever we get together next. If you're in a situation where the thin hair aint working for you, light it up! That's what the illuminated reticle is there for.

JM,

I don't have a dog in this fight. But here's a little experiment I did last winter. I think my eyes are changing for the worse--maybe like yours. We all get that way. I posted these findings on another optics topic last year.

I went outside in the middle of the night, no moonlight. Leupold VX 3, Trijicon 3-9, and NF 2.5-10X32, and lined up on my woodpile 60 yards away. With both the Leupold and the Trijicon, I could see the woodpile. With the NF, I could see the individual pieces of wood.

I'm needing more power these days for target shooting, but that little 2.5-10 NF I have on the 'yote whacker, is a sweet scope. As always, just my opinion. Others will vary...

Alan,

Blasphemy!!!! 243s are too small for deer, how can you kill an elk....let alone over 1/2 mile?

My longest WT deer was at 400 yds, 6BR/105 Amax, 2850mv...double lunged. Figured over 1K based on #s, but I never put #s in my formula below.......

Success = Success, regardless how the end goal is achieved.

I never owned an NF, but would welcome a few additional models that mirror common models hunters use...even a lowly 6x fixed

If I ran that company, I'd try marketing a scope of around 3-10/12 w/hunting friendly reticle, and in a lighter package if possible.

NF experts....what makes the weight so much more than say a Leupy? Tube or Glass?

Tube and internal components. And NF is NEVER going to cater to the hunting crowd. So lets just get that straight, right now.

I've talked to them about building me certain scope w/certain reticles, and they ain't having ANY part of it. They cater to the military, and benchrest. If that works for you, o.k. If not, they couldn't care less.

Right now, NF is at LEAST 26 weeks out with their orders. I guess alot of us just plain like 'em...

When you build a scope that truly will not break, it's going
to be heavier.

28 weeks as of 3 November when I placed an order.

Alan

Yep! 243 Win and elk....at long range

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthread...80482/all/A_Girl_An_Elk_A_243_Win_105VLD



Alan

Lol - yeah, foot lbs are often over-rated

You knew I was kidding.

No long ranger here but I do have a comment on my Nightforce 2.5-10x24's toughness, it has withstood over 250+ rounds of full power 505 Gibbs loads pushing the 600 gn. Woodleigh's in excess of 2425 fps.

It tracks perfect, and hold's zero like a bank vault buried in lead , forgive my paltry attempt at humor, but its a TSOB and I love it.

Gunner

YOU TALKING TO ME? YOU TALKING TO ME???

Alan

YOU TALKING TO ME? YOU TALKING TO ME???

Alan

Alan, hope you and the Mrs. are set for a Merry Christmas.

Good grief. I should never have asked.

Cliff,

Thanks, no! She's been on dialysis for nearly 3 years. Thought I was going to loose her for sure this past summer with the triple by-pass after another heart attack.

We're working on it though.

Alan

Please let us know when your father gets back home.

Alan- I am very sorry to hear of the set backs your wife has had, but thankful she has overcome her challenges.

Prayers out to you both sir, and may 2012 bring your wife improved health, and both of you peace and happiness.

Cliff

I agree with what Cliff wrote, Alan. I missed reading that earlier. Will certainly say a prayer for her, too.

Smartest post you ever posted>

That's not what I understand on both counts.
First of all, they do break. Second, scope weight, may or may not make a difference. E

nightforce np1 in 2.5-10x32