I have turret presses, single stage presses and progressive presses.

My progressives are for handgun ammo using carbide dies.

So what’s the scoop when loading bottle necked cartridges on a progressive.
Lube, size and load, then how do you remove the lube.

I load my 223 on my turret press right now. I lube, size, then tumble the lube off. Then continue the loading process.

Try the Lee Resizing Lube, It's a wax.

I empty the container into a spray bottle with a pint of isopropyl alcohol, shake it real good before use and spray it on the brass making sure you get some on the inside of the mouth of the case, let it dry and just the wax is left behind.

After sizing you can just wipe the wax off.

Wiping down 1+K loaded rounds doesn’t sound like a good time to me.

Ever try tumbling the wax off.

A friend of mine dumps his loaded rounds from a Dillon into a vibratory tumbler for a few minutes to remove the case lube, one shot in his case.. He shoots a lot of 3 gun etc. no probs.

It still makes me cringe. Is that changing the size of the powder granules? I really don't like tumbling loaded rounds. ????

My solution is to size, deprime, & tumble. Then run the stuff through the progressive with a decapper at first station to knock out the media from the flash hole. If I had to do this with thousands of rounds it might work out. But need a powder cop die, etc. etc.

Even for a 500 at a time, I went back to single stage. Maybe I'm old school & missing something ???

Since the wax is soluble in alcohol, couldn't the finished rounds be washed off with alcohol as well?? Everything should be sealed up and the exposure to alcohol would be short as long as you don't let it just set and soak ? Reuse the waxy alcohol to make more spray lube. I guess I should try it sometime to find out.

kwg

ever think about the trucks and the roads bringing your rounds to market jostling the fire out of them, (pun intended), or the places flying them to theater, vibratory is fine...

I process rifle brass first then load. The .223 is prepped on a pass through a 1050 then the bulk stuff loaded on the same press. Much smother press operation. Mostly use the same processed brass for Bolt gun but load most of that on a old PW Met2.
Tumble the lube off with cob treated with about a thimble full of mineral spirits. Tried rolling them around in a towel moist with alcohol but it was just easier to throw them in one of the tumblers while I did something else.

Most times I don't wipe any of it off, it's such a minuscule amount it doesn't matter.

I have a bunch loaded up, I'll go take a picture.

I throw them in a box and hit the loaded rounds with a shot of electric parts cleaner. Works well, they dry fast, and I’ve never had a problem with it - as long as you do it outside.

Best thing to do is to try not to load any of that shixt and stick with straight revolver cartridges and the aforementioned carbide dies. I don't mind loading for most cartridges, but loading for high-volume semi-auto cartridges is a pita.

You can see a little white dust on a couple of them in my hand but it's no big deal to me and yes you could tumble it off. The wax will separate from the alcohol if it sits for a bit you just have to shake it up before you spray it.

Hornady One Shot and Dillon Carbide dies if I'm only making a single pass.

Most of my loads I run through twice these days as I'm chasing the precision dragon.

I tumble clean and lube with Hornady One Shot. Size and decap on the Rock Chucker that has the old time case kicker on it so it goes pretty fast. Back in the walnut for an hour to remove the lube and only then they go to the 550 for priming and loading.

Call me number 3 for Hornady One Shot.

I use a Hornady LnL 5 position progressive. I don't even go as far as decapping first... I just tumble, One Shot, and load.

I've compared my progressive loads vs my painstaking single stage, individually weighed powder, concentricity tooled, weight separated, uniformed primer pocket, flash hole uniformed, trimmed, deburred, Lapua brass loads, and up to 400 yards, I can't tell a difference... So I don't worry about it anymore.

Over the years, all of my 3000+ 223 brass has had PP's and flash holes uniformed, so there's that... Any more I only separate by headstamp (ie. LC, Lapua, Winchester)

Never hurt a thing

Neck size only.

Lee Collet Neck Die and 223? If so, I'm in.

Not going to work for semi-auto ammo.

Won’t work on a progressive.

Thanks

Do I see the Lee Factory Crimp die .

It certainly does

Made this video many years ago
Was using a Redding bushing neck die with a carbide bushing so no lube required
Have since gone to a LCD and it works better, set the die to cam over slightly.Dillon 223
Done many thousands this way and they shoot as good as the rifle will

Edited to add the rifle IS sub moa all day long

Yes sir you do. I really like the FC dies, you can really dial them in good and they seem to work extremely well.

Use undersized mandrels as needed I'd suppose?

I've got Lee Factory Crimp Dies for nearly everything including 556.

Yep

I have several Lee Collet dies. These I use for my bolt action rifles, never for a semi-auto, unless I couple it with a Redding Body die.

Lee does not recommend setting the Collet die to Cam/Toggle over. No feel and can damage the die.


I have tried setting a Collet die to cam over on my RCBS Turret press, I was not successful.
Now all my Collet dies are set up according to Lee’s +2 Turns as well as undersized mandrel.

If I were to go progressive, I would not use a neck die.

Excellent.

I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die for all of my Semi-Auto rifles in various cartridges.

I have done extensive testing in all, both with the LFC die and without.

In all of my testing and hundreds of rounds the LFC dies improved accuracy, except for one, my 6.5 Grendel.
The accuracy in the Grendal was not affected one way or the other, but I still crimp those loads.

Okie dokie.

Nothing like some dick on the internet telling you something you have been successfully doing for years won’t work

But Lee says so, if adjusted as above. LOL, The trick must be adjusting as needed, to work as desired, as is the case with all dies. Goodtimes.

F*ck you
I never said it wouldn’t work, I said I didn’t have success with the the cam over.

well Actually you did

If I'm doing semi ammo that needs FL sizing, I have a head for that. I tumble them clean, then run the cases through a deprime/FL size only/inside neck in three separate dies on the head. Then tumble the whole snotting batch clean, take a sample of 10 or 15 to see if a trim is needed, either yes or no.

Final loading sequence goes final neck in and out/prime/powder/seat, which is the way I load bolter cases, cleaned but not lubed because they don't need it.

One advantage, a big one, is when a case sticks and rips out. It's a simple matter to unscrew the FL die and put a nice solid rod in to whack out the case and go again.

Second advantage, another big one, is "feel" and "smoothness." While I've got everything bolted down pretty rock solid, it's basically a better stroke and the powder drops more consistently if you're not whamming and jamming the full-length sizing forces and doing everything else at the same time.

Hornady One Shot is designed to be left on the case.

If anybody tells you that is detrimental, they are fugk tards.

If you have a problem not wiping down every cartridge, you shouldn't be using a progressive.

Steve is a nice guy.

And he thinks he shoots a lot.

I don't really have the heart to tell him he has a lot to learn. LOL

Good point

I spray cases down w/Hornady One-Shot. Load the lubed cases into the auto-feeder on my 650. Then I start pulling the handle with the goal of doing nothing more than deprime/re-size on this run. Then they go into the tumbler with very fine corn-cob floor-dry that DOESN'T stick in the flash hole. After tumbling, run them through the separator to get the media out and the prepped brass can sit prepped until I'm ready to load it.

Prior to buying the 650, I would re-size/de-prime single-stage then fill everything back up on a 550. I still do that for all the other rifle cases I load on a 550 (22-250, 243, 270, 7-08, 308).

Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Lube 5 oz Aerosol this is the stuff I use for case lube and it is the best I have found. Plus it smells GREAT:)


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012981131?pid=782240

Do you leave in on the cases after loading

No but I don't reload 223 on a progressive. I size them and throw them in a tumbler for 15 min or so then do my thing. If I can find a 223 progressive I will probably pick one up soon.

I use lee sizing wax and a single stage first. After resizing, trimming, and cutting primer pocket crimps as needed I use a progressive press and a lee crimp die.

What I like about the spray on lube that I use is I throw a bunch of cases in a bag and spray some lube in there and hand tumble them. Then pull them out and I will run a Qtip with lube on every second or 3rd case neck. You could do the same with any spray lube. I just have had excellent luck with the Sharp Shooter Royal.

FWIW, "Grit 'O Cob" corncob blasting media is much finer and won't stick inside flash-holes. A 50# bag is ~$50 and is virtually a lifetime supply of tumbling media for most folks. ~1# will fill up the smaller Dillon tumbler and you can tumble 2000-2500 rounds before you need to change. I want my brass "clean" in ~15min worth of tumbling, I'm not concerned about "shiny". The finer media also makes the vibratory tumblers MUCH quieter.

I save my "used" media in gallon ziplocks and use it as "floor-dry" when necessary as it seems to still work pretty well for that.

My only progressive press loads shotgun shells and I don’t spend time worrying about all this stuff.

Steve is one of those dumb asses that thinks he shoots a lot.

LOL

I did the spray and pray thing for awhile in Nam. It's not near as effective as one well aimed round.

I don't have much use for pistols.

How dare you...

Never said I didn’t know how to use them.

Roy