I haven't tried these yet. They always look great in the ads but have any of you used them in real life? They're kind of pricey compared to crimp connectors but if their claims hold up, they'd sure be easy to use..

Do not know about that, RC.

I do like and use many of the heat shrink butt splices, but never had one that self solders.

Another automotive product I love, seeing as I am usually driving a rig closing in on 30 years old. I use solder pellets from NAPA to replace battery cable ends. Just cut off the original end behind any corrosion. Put a solder pellet inside a terminal lug. Insert clean bare copper cable. Then heat with a propane torch until the pellet melts.

I have not had one fail yet repaired in this manner. Then I use a battery post to marine adapter on the battery. From that point on, all it takes is a quick turn of a couple wing nuts to release a battery.

This conversion is especially desirable on old Chevys with crappy side connectors.

Used them for many years at work/home and they work great. Much easier than twisting wire, soldering and then taping a splice. I never seem to have the size of heat shrink tubing I need. The heat guns we used at work had a heat shield that wrapped all the way around the splice to contain the heat and make the solder melt faster.

Solderstick is just one brand and they're kind of expensive. Amazon has a bunch of other Chinese brands that are much cheaper.

So far I haven't been able to find out what the voltage rating is on them. Can they be used for 120V or are these just for low voltage? I suspect they're for 12 or 24V only but can't find it in print.

I've used them. They are good if used where there is no wind. They require being heated consistently. I probably use more butt splices on equipment and trailers than on anything else. Most of those repairs are made outside where it can be windy.

I always thought it was better to overlap the wire for a good solder connection..

But it seems a good way to keep the connection dry.

I think twist, solder, then liquid electrical tape would be a better solution..

I've had good luck with "military terminals". I keep them in stock.

http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/c/p/Military-Battery-Terminals-sku-MilTerm001.htm

Thanks Kingston. Never heard of them before today. I don't have a heavy need for connectors, but when I do, those would certainly fit the bill.

Kingston,

That is a good looking product I was unaware of. Even better than the marine terminal conversion I have been using.

A little scared to clic on a Kingston link, but this one is okay.

They work, keep in mind it's low temp solder and low temp solder does not work well in high vibration environments.

When used correctly those should be great. One thing I would do is make sure the finished splice is protected from vibration because the connection may be subject to some embrittlement. I'd also be inclined to put some additional shrink tubing over it to enhance moisture resistance and provide a little more mechanical integrity.

IS,
Have you ever built up a degraded terminal?

I hate to cut away cast-on terminals, especially if you are limited on wire length.
I never thought to build one up with solder...but I have mashed pulled bullets into a shim.

That's good to know. I've thought about getting some.of these. Seems like I use quite a few butt-splices, but they leave a bit to be desired. I was looking at these as a possible improvement.

I don't believe I have ever had a silver-soldered, shrink wrapped splice ever fai l- but then I don't do many, and I don't want to do them twice.

These are military. They were developed by Tyco's military shrink wrap division, Raychem.

I've never used them, but you could always throw a wrap or two of electrical tape around the joint and it would be good to go for higher voltage.

]


I imagine that they have several sizes for different wire gauges like most connectors. If the circuit is properly designed with the proper wire for the load it shouldn't be an issue.
But..
How much they heat up will vary on how well they bond..but that low temp solder will become important then.

If you use the vinyl butt splice connectors that have no bell on the ends (Here) and a good quality Shrink tube with Hot glue on the inside you have a mighty fine Waterproof connection.

No, I have not tried to add lead to the terminal. I do not gave the tools to do a job like that.

Growing up on the farm. Having 50 year old tractors around and equipment like hay swathers which only get started six or eight times per year, there are ample opportunities to repair battery cables.

Most commonly used are the terminals which simply clamp to the end of the copper cable. They are okay for temporary repairs, but seldom last beyond several years.

The soldered lugs are far superior.

Meh.

Not a fan.

While you knowledgeable guys are on such a subject, I have a tiny little wire issue and could use some direction. The pos wire of the 9v battery connector in my range finder has parted from the round ring. There is very little slack - not easy to string the wire out fora fix. I have bared the end of the wire a bit (maybe 3/16 past the insulation), but do not want to mess up the solder job - it is tight and tiny. Suggestions? Thanks for any help.

Last time I had a soldering question I asked RiverRider.


That cat is sharp as hell on that sort of thing.

I have not used these but just in time to redo the wiring on 3 of my work trailers and 2 boat trailers (bernese mountain dog at 6mo chewed every wire she could find) a small price to pay for such a great guard dog & protective of children and livestock..
Anyway, I will order these and give them a try. Also going to bury the wires in ¼ pvc this time.

I have not used these but just in time to redo the wiring on 3 of my work trailers and 2 boat trailers (bernese mountain dog at 6mo chewed every wire she could find) a small price to pay for such a great guard dog & protective of children and livestock..
Anyway, I will order these and give them a try. Also going to bury the wires in ¼ pvc this time.
Learn something new every day, thanks Shooter for sharing the info on the pellets. Never heard of them before but after watching the YouTube about it, I'm hooked👍

Yes they work

I’d probably cut the 9v connector off, buy a new one with a flying lead, bird cage the two wires, don’t forget the heat shrink, little flux, little solder paste, “Touch-Touch”
As they say and your done. Those leads are usually short so the battery and lead fit into the tight compartment so don’t get stupid on length. There’s a few ways to do it and I haven’t taken the IPC class in a decade so little foggy on the alternatives but that’s how I’d do it. I’ve a Rework station setup so it’s pretty easy.

Want a little more challenge? Get the solder kit out and try replacing a broken trace on a circuit board. Hand solder a Through Hole 100 leg Quad flat pack, no biggie, replace a trace is a few tries at least.

A lot of guys like the hot air and heated vacuum systems. I couldn’t stand them. Used to have to repair 660 30 micron solar cells. When those had primary and secondary lenses on them and 24 or so where in an array on a tracker AOA was .8 degrees. No solder mask just bare copper. Painful is an understatement.

Been a long time but overlapped wires at least wire diameter exposed is probably preferred over bird caging. Most of the standards are setup maybe not for strength but so you don’t have a “blind” joint and can check to see if it has the proper fillet or was “interrupted”. The later in Lead/Tin solder usually looks dull under a 4x scope. I had all 3 classes and 3 states memorized by application but I can’t remember a few of my kids birthdays after the accident. Could probably dig out my J-Standard/610 book of someone were interested.

I started using them, in the military, about 1974 IIRC. Used them for many years and they always worked if I did the prep correctly.

Done properly, work great

Here is a link to the Data Sheet for the ones shown:
https://www.nteinc.com/terminals/pdf/Butt.pdf#page=2
They are good to 600 volts. Twenty years ago I worked on aircraft wiring and we used similar ones and they worked great. As someone else noted a heat gun with a curved shield around the end concentrates the heat and helps if it is windy etc.

Before you buy an assortment, look at what's in it. Most of them are mostly for 24ga wires and almost no 12ga. You might find it's cheaper to buy bags of single colors to avoid buying a bunch of sizes you'll never use.

Thanks for this - I will try to find a new replacement connector (flying lead - I like that) in this tiny burg. If i can't get it done right. River Rider graciously has offered to fix it for me. Can't lose.