I have 116K on it, bought new. The paint fell off so I had it repainted. I have replaced the ball joints, changed trans fluid twice (dropping the pan, no flush). I have fluid to change both differentials and transfer case. I plan on changing both radiator hoses, any heater hoses I can find. I did have to replace one front wheel bearing assembly a couple years ago. I have gone through brake pads, rear rotors, new exhaust pipes from cat back.

So what would be a preventative for this? I want to nail down any common or potential issues.

Buy a Ford 6.7

I think part of the problem with the front suspension is just from the weight of the cummins.

must not use salt on the roads where you are. my 05 disintegrated by 14. haven't seen a vehicle rust like that since the 70's.

Replace steering tracking bar and any associated parts with it.Replace head bolts with high grade studs.Adjust valves

They are generally pretty solid, I'd replace the other wheel bearing though. The front ends on any of the diesels don't last because of the weight. Hoses and belts just get old and brittle. Make sure and use good quality fuel filters.

You sound like a 6.0 ford owner

An 05 5.9 24V Cummins is about bulletproof

Uh....no!

Any Cummins I have run has been a good engine.

2 yrs ago

I sold my bro's '04 Cummin's 6 sp M/T w/123K miles

Was from West PA......reg cab long bed

Undercarriage was schhiddt......

Sold it here in Utah......thought about keeping it......but

kept my one owner/clean/Utah Chebby 2500HD crew instead

I had to replace the rear brake hoses on mine. They collapsed internally and caused the brakes to drag.

I have an '05 W2500 with the 5.9 and 6spd manual. Service (Lube, oil, oil filter) every 5,000 miles. R&R fuel filter every 15,000 miles. R&R air filter every 30,0000 miles. Putting the aftermarket nylon bushings in the front suspension will stretch out the time between front end rebuilds. Mine, the paint started peeling clear coat in '14 or '15. Rusting out the fender wells and door sills in '17 or '18. Throw a sheet of plywood in the bed to cover the holes that rusted thru around the goose neck hitch.

I bought my truck out of Corsicana, TX in '06. At one year old, the front suspension bolts still had the gold cadmium plating showing. Zero red rust. Two weeks in KY summer weather the rust started showing on the bolts. One month in KY summer humidity, every bolt on the truck was covered with red oxide rust. My son bought the truck off me and took it to S.C in 2015 or 2016. Katy bar the door. It was rotted by the time it came back to KY in 2018.

Just over 200K miles. I plan to drive the wheels off it...

Cummins 5.9 B series are the toughest and hard to kill.

till you lose a freeze plug... melted the pistons in my 97 12v the end of Feb after the big freeze. in the shop getting a new engine built, compound turbos, etc.

I have a feeling you will be grinning big time . My brother claims his is kicking out over 700 horse power.

I have a 2004. I’ve rebuilt the front end, wheel bearing assemblies, couple of water pumps. It has 206,000miles on it. It’s been the best truck I’ve ever owned, giving it to oldest grandson soon. That truck will run faster, pull better that my 2018 dodge diesel.

The best way is not to drive it.

Water pump.

Good Gosh, you've rebuilt this, that & replaced 2 of something in 200K & it's been the best truck you've had ?

WTF were you buying before, Yugo's?

Sounds better than head studs, deletes, def and whatever else it takes to make newer ones go the long haul. I’ll keep my 2000 7.3 and gladly not be as cool as all the new jacked up flat billed def crew

Sounds like you're a "truck" owner. How many loads of groceries have you brought home in your half ton?

If'n 'ya need it ya need it.

But the diesel owners that beat their wallets to death owning one of these humpuffers to pull an ATV trailer or get "groceries".

No thang, I've had 500 HP muscle cars that the ol lady used to borrow, to get groceries.

I've got an '06 Ram 3500 Cummins 6 speed manual with 112k on it, and other than standard maintenance the only thing I had to do to it was put in a new clutch.

The OEM dual mass flywheel clutches are a well known POS but mine had some help going out thanks to mouse nest in it. Had no clue this was even possible.

500 hp is a laughable number to most diesel guys that have anything except a bone stock truck. One thing that a diesel truck does very often is cause a major case of butthurt to the gas truck guys. Meanwhile, we don't have to have airbags to hold up our bumper-pull trailers. When you use stuff, it takes maintenance to keep it up.

Again, if ya need it, go for it. Even if yo don't & want it, go for it. I have.

Upgrade the ball joints to all metal grease type lifetime warranty. The engine mounts should be changed also. U-joints are due. Use only spicer OEM. You will be a very good heavy mechanic by 200k

That's a nice truck, the idler pulley, belt tensioner, serpentine belt and the water pump are wear items that can strand you. You need to invest in an AirDog or Fass fuel pump and filter system.

On the way to get groceries. I like fish.

This is what I did and I replaced everything on the front end at the same time, took 3 days in the summer heat, work 15 minutes then take a break to cool down.

I forgot to mention I have replaced the water pump and put in new thermostat.

Dodge water pumps go out around 100,000 miles.

Any diesel vehicle after 1998.5 should have fuel filtration down to 5 microns before the fuel hits the factory filter and injection pump IMHO.

Micro silica in fuel will wear out injectors on high pressure fuel delivery... kinda like a sand blaster nozzle wears out making for substandard spray.

Cummins injectors are fairly cheap and easy to change... V8 Ford and Chevy... not so much.

Why 1998.5+? EPA regs and rule changes for "cleaner" meant higher pressure. High pressure means the micro silica can do more wear damage.

I sold a 2004 and went back to 12 valves that have been built up.

Currently have:

1998.5 24 valve Cummins speciality built dump (just replaced the FASS pump, filters, VE44 pump, TPS and fraying throttle cable, but still have some idle inconsistency... assuming worn injectors. She only has 286k miles.

1997 12 Valve P7100 with oversized injectors and fuel delivery. She is a real monster. Only 262k miles

1996 12 Valve P7100 that will get oversized injectors and fuel delivery this summer I hope. Runs great as is, but just cleaning up a refresh. 425k miles.

You have cover the basics.

Transmission bands should be adjusted at fluid changes. Not hard, but talk to a couple pros before you do it yourself.

Rust in doors, rockets and jambs... can pretreat with grease if so inclined.

Dodge switches and plastics... and seats suck. Expect disappoint.

I replaced the seats in two of mine mint condition seats from a Prius... great seats and makes me smile.

I have owned about 25 Cummins trucks... engines are legendary... everything else is typical Mopar crapola.

I agree cash is king.

I got 2 dodge Cummins at 300,000 plus.

One at 100,000 plus.

Mopar crapola that keeps cummin.

Can't argue a bit of this. The Dodge lacks a lot of comfort and quality, but I bought it for the towing capabilities. Can't afford a truck to replace it, so going to keep it going.

I have a '06 with 114K. Replaced ball joints and brakes at about 80k. It gets dealer service every 5k.
No other problems, but i think I may need a clutch replacement sometime in the future.
Prior to that I had a couple of company owned 7.3 fords and think they were better than the Dodge. Turned the last one in at retirement with 245K and had no doubt it was ready to go anywhere anytime