Do you think it makes them easier to start?

My Stihls are getting to where ya have to pull em 35 times to fire em up.


Thinking about switching to a brand with a primer bulb. I need input if this makes a difference

I’ll hang up and listen

My Echo has a bulb and an auto choke. 3 pulls and I’m Freddy.

I don't know about chainsaws, but my Shindaiwa T230 trimmer starts on the second or third pull with a primer bulb. Do they put them on the new-fangled saws?

Yup
I been looking at the Echo

✌️

I think they do, I'm in the same boat especially in cold weather.

Mike

Stihl makes 2 versions of a few saws, 1 with the EZ start and primer bulb as well as an EZ chain tightener and 1 without. I just bought a new Stihl Farmboss and chose to NOT get the EZ start, primer bulb and chain tightener. The EZ start one had more plastic and felt cheap especially with the big plastic knob for tightening the chain.

Choke on..1 pull…choke off and pull to start.

And I don’t need a big saw

14-16”

Just for once a week, homeowner use

Maybe I would ask it to cut a pickup bed of wood twice a month during cold months

For something light duty and minimal use I’d look at the new cordless stuff.

Sure it helps. What also helps is not putting ethanol in a 2 stroke engine, or any engine with a carburetor..

Your doing it wrong!

Squeeze the throttle trigger. Push lever all the way down.

Pull til it tried to crank.


Flip it up to middle position.

Pull it again.

It’ll touch off…

Been cutting firewood for 30 years…….

Wish my 361 hadn’t chit the bed. It was a good saw.

Sheesh.

no make that


Whoopity Sheesh.

I have two old Husky's without the bulb. If I start them at least once a month they start on the 5th or 6th pull. If I skip a month I'm pulling a lot more than 6 times. With my Echo I'm going on the 3rd or 4th pull no matter when I started it last.

kwg

My 18" echo has a primer bulb. I also have a 22" and a 36" echo saw. They don't have the bulb. You can definitely notice the difference in cold starts.

Can you figure out what brand I like?

Mine is 18”. Don’t be a dwarf.

That toolless chain tensioner works splendid.

I think Santa Claus has the Makita lined up.

I need a new gasser too. 😃

My husky has a primer blub, push bulb five or six times, pull choke, pull rope two or three times it starts. After it's run, and needs restarted, pull rope usually once is enough.

I use the premix VP racing fuel 50 to 1. If you loose your octane rating from old gas a Stihl saw won’t start worth a crap, period! Might be worth a try before buying a new saw.

TSC carries it on n the gallon can size.

Good idea

My gas is the cheap 87 octane and its been bulk stored since May
had stabilizer in it but it was cheap gas from the get go

I should have known better.

You put some Seafoam in it?

Or at least some Sta-Bil storage?

Marvel Mystery?

Please tell me you put something in it.

That’s it, low octane bulk stored fuel is the chits! Seen my F-I-L and nephew tear into almost everything on the farm over bad low octane gas in the overhead tank. Fresh fuel fixed it all.

Stihl starting procedure:

1.). Set on full choke. Pull 2-4 times until you hear it pop.
2.). Move lever up to fast run position. Pull to start.

Not sure what your issue is. This has worked for me over the last 35+ years with 10 different models.

Maybe it’s time for:
1.) new carb or rebuild
2.) new impulse line
3.) new plug or coil
4.) clean air filter
5.) clean sawdust from around/under flywheel and coil

Fresh gas, preferably ethanol free, at over 91 octane preferred. 50:1. No more.

Run the tank and carb dry after every use.

My chainsaw shop said stabilizer doesn't work on 87 octane, it has to be 89 or 92. And I was always told by the shops on small engines to run high test with GOOD stabilizer, including 4 wheelers.

I use only non ethanol gas in my saws. The Echos will start first or second pull after sitting for a year or more. Only have one Stihl remaining. Very frustrating to start until I started giving it a shot of starting fluid.
I’ll be happy when this Stihl takes a final dump so I can replace it with an Echo.

I have a Stihl with a primer bulb.

I never need to use it.

Have a 20” Echo 4 yr old I think. No bulb. No problem starting. Never had likker in it.

are your rings toast?
try pulling the plug swabbing a little oil around the cylinder wall just above the piston.
if it starts easier your rings are probably worn.
extra fuel won't help low compression...

Im probably due for carb rebuild

Saw is 5 years old get ran a lot, probably crap sucked into the carb passed the dirty filter. I don’t maintain chit like Miss Manners. I admit I’m shameless about that.

I can get a new carb for less than $50

Can replace the saw for $189

i’ll check that that too

Thanks

Look pm eBay for a new carb.

Couple months back i needed one for my echo pole saw.

Complete carb, gaskets, new fuel hose, new primer bulb, new spark plug.

All for $14.

Swapped it out. Fired right up.

I’ve asked a few times and looked on the internet- “How long does Sta-bil last”

All I get is the estimates for the mixed product.

I wanted to know “HOW LONG DOES STA BIL ITSELF LAST” Because I have about an 8 year bottle of the red Stabil on a shelf in the shop. Wondered if it was good.

I bought some new anyway.

The internet is stupid sometimes.

Will do

Yepp...

But they are 1-2 year carbs... at best.

Save the old carb and Hopps 9 it with a diabetes syringe... probably be OK when you put it back on after the China carb fails.

Guessing it fuel... I am OCD on 93 octane ethanol free (or AV Gas) and Echo Red Armor oil... ONLY!

40mm rings cost me $10
can of carb cleaner for a different used saw that wouldn't start bought as is cost me $4. that saw is a peach now! just gave it a cleaning, cogs, air filter and the tank breather valve thing that replaced the vinyl tube with two grub screws in it.
also check Scribd.com for stihl service manuals...

Originally Posted by BigDave39355
"Look pm eBay for a new carb.

Couple months back i needed one for my echo pole saw.

Complete carb, gaskets, new fuel hose, new primer bulb, new spark plug.

All for $14.

Swapped it out. Fired right up."

That must be a TOP quality carburetor. Is it made by Holly"

Asking for a friend...

I'd think the stabilizer has "indefinite" life, but once mixed mine says....1/2 oz gallon for 3-6 months, 1 oz. gallon for 1 year. But most stabilizer is cheap junk, buy the good stuff and high octane gas and your problems are over. I run a lot of small engines including quads, and never have a problem...start right up even a year later. But I do run my leaf blower & weed wacker empty/dry at the end of the year.

I use all Echo small engines, 5 year warranty.

EDIT: If I had to guess, your 87 octane and cheaper stabilizer trashed your carb.

Fresh gasoline is important. Burn up the old stale gas in your pickup and buy some some fresh gas for saws and snow blowers etc.

Rene says pics or it didn't happen...

391 (25 and 20" bars) down to 017 gassers, the battery powered was my present to me last Christmas. Not pictured is the man killer Stihl pole saw.

Run premium non alcohol in them and the big weed eater. the 250 is the coldest collared of the bunch.

Primer bulbs will dry rot dad in law said rub Vaseline on them to preserve I’ve replaced a few

Don't know crap about gas in Tennessee, but,
we have summer and winter gas here.

The difference is how it vaporized with temp.
Summer gas won't evaporite/vaporize as well at low temps.
That makes for harder starting. Your older ethanol/gas was
likely summer blend, if it's pretty cool that would add to the trouble.

By now you should have winter blend. You really can't tell, the
people in the stations won't have a dam clue. It's determined by the
EPA/fuel companies.



Ethanol free, or at least 93 octane is all that goes in my 2 cycle stuff.
Guys don't want to hear it, but you have an engine running 12-13k rpm
at no load. 10,000 in the cut. That's a high performance engine that
will benefit from some pampering.

Buy a Husky or Dolmar/Makita, those rpms may go up to 14,500.

My cars get 87. It's good enough for that application.
Not a gas snob.

Husqvarna has gone to hell id get a echo

My Sthils start right up, but I take them to a guy once a year to fine tune them, charges 35.00 bucks. My 2 cycle motors do way better since I started buying the store bought mix.

Old man is onto something.


The quick and dirty compression test is to grab the pull start handle,
And try to pick the saw up.

If you can lift the saw, good compression.
If it lifts and the string comes out too. Stihl good.
If the string comes out without lifting the saw at all, not good.

To posts, now on topic.

Weed eater has one, really don't think it helps a lot. Still has a choke,
still need it.

As to saws?
I've on my seen them on toy saws.
Never a Pro-saw.....

Echo makes nice homeowner saws.
Easy starting is one of their best known attributes.

I got a 10 pack of bulbs off Amazon for my weed eater and leaf blower
Like $3

If this is an older saw, have a vacuum test done to check your crankcase/crankshaft seals. The fuel pump works off of crankcase pressure. No crankcase pressure, no fuel.

I'll agree echo saws are not commercial saws. I love the brand and will not stop buying them. I will say the 36" saw is a beast. I don't use it much but when need to it runs.

Put a new carb on it and throw away the old crap gas. Forget the stabil, if the gas is so old that you need to think of that then you need new fuel. Only use fresh non-ethanol and never 87 octane. I have a source in town of 93 octane non-ethanol, it solved my two stroke problems.

When you put up the saw drain the tank and run it til it quits. If you’re going to store fuel then use the metal cans the pre-mix stuff comes in, don’t store it in plastic. Any fuel more than a couple months old should be dumped.

Crap fuel is the death of small engines.

Don't matter what make you have, after a couple pulls get out the starting fluid...it's your friend.

Have two 30 year old Redmax saws without a bulb that were fed nothing but cheap ethanol gas since day one. They both have started within a few pulls even after sitting for nearly a year. The first problem with either was just this week. Had to replace the fuel tank grommet on the G561AVS.
Since the Redmax saws were getting old and parts are nonexistent, I started shopping for replacements a couple months ago. My brother runs several Stihls and suggested the ms261c. However, I decided on Echo since the dealer is close to me.
Bought a CS620P 24" no bulb, CS3510 16" w/bulb and a slightly used CS352 w/bulb (didn't need another 35cc saw but for $100 with three new chains I couldn't not buy it).
All start within three pulls.
Fixed up and sold a few Craftsman/Poulan saws with and without a bulb. All started easily in a few pulls.

So, in my experience:
Bulb or no bulb makes no difference. Just one more component to go bad.
87 Ethanol gas makes no difference. However, I just filled all of our cans with nonethanol + Stabil and bought a bunch of overpriced True Fuel for SHTF storage.
Proper maintenance makes a big difference. Clean filter and saw after each use. New plug once per year.
Most important is keeping fuel clean and free of sawdust.

Here's what Stihl says about ethanol and octane:

https://www.stihlusa.com/information/articles/gasoline-guidelines-outdoor-power-equipment/

The ethanol thing always causes a fuss amongst small engine users and boaters. Usually it falls out with folks from the Northeast and West saying it makes no difference and folks from the South saying it's the devil. I know that my engine problems went down by orders of magnitude when I swore off of ethanol fuel for my small engines and my boat. In my vehicles I burn the cheapest stuff I can find, usually 10% ethanol 87 octane. The difference in the South is our humidity, we've got a lot more than other parts of the country. Ethanol fuel reacts badly with humidity, it absorbs more moisture from the air down here. Ethanol fuel doesn't store well down here for that reason. For a fuel injected engine I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference, especially in vehicles where the fuel is burned in a matter of days instead of sitting in the tank months at a times. My boat has a fuel injected four stroke and I could probably get away with E10 in it even though I don't use it that much. I just like the extra peace of mine with non-ethanol although I'm fine with using 87 octane. For anything with a carburetor though I'm adamant that nothing other than non-ethanol will touch mine. Chainsaws, weedeaters, ATV's, etc. If it's got a carb I'm not putting ethanol fuel in it, I've had too much trouble over the years from it. It degrades too quickly in my environment and I've replaced or rebuilt too many carburetors from it. The higher octane stuff is a no-brainer in small two strokes, the price difference is insignificant.

Bottom line, use high quality fresh gas in your small engines. Put the crap stuff in your car or truck, they'll run off of anything.

Sounds good

I used to do that but got lax.

We have a fuel terminal in town about 25 miles from the house. I need to get 5 gals of 93 no eth and do up my wheeler and freshen up my saw gas

Probably over $4 a gallon but I gotta get back to doing it.

He put something in it.

I have two without and one with, fresh fuel makes a bigger difference.

Ethanol is likely the culprit on the majority of poor running small engines, 2 or 4 cycle.

I fought with this issue for years especially in my 2 cycles. I ran all of the typical ethanol treatments, helped but problems still came back. I ran across a product called "Mechanic in a Bottle" that was designed to help poor running engines due to ethanol (see below). I figured, what can it hurt, bought some and was amazed at the results! I had a poor running generator that had a 4-position choke lever, I had to leave it at the highest choke setting to keep it running. After using "Mechanic in a bottle" it will allow me to completely turn off the choke. I have used it on multiple chain saws and weed eaters that were extremely poor running, worked on all of them! I have even used it on a couple that would not run at all, simply flooded engine/carburetor with it, let it sit 1-2 days, started up after flushing. The older engines are not designed for ethanol, the newer ones seem to fare better. Before anyone does anything drastic, try it, at best you will be out $5 for a bottle.

"Mechanic In A Bottle is the solution to FIX poor or non-running 2 and 4 cycle engines due to modern fuel issues. This synthetic fuel additive removes all varnish in the fuel system without having to remove the carburetor, removes carbon deposits and water, revitalizes rubber and plastic components, replaces lost octane and rejuvenates old fuel."

Have you noticed that in the higher humidity environments your gas cans with ethanol-based fuel will turn black, actually gets a fungus/mold on it. This can also be seen at all fuel refinery's, storage areas, all of their tanks or lines that carry ethanol-based fuels will get this mold. It is also prevalent around whisky/bourbon distilleries and storage/aging warehouses. The fungus literally grows and covers everything, this is from the evaporating ethanol. Google the multiple articles about MGP Distillery in Greendale Indiana and their legal issues and problems with the local residents, will show pics of their cars and houses literally covered in this fungus however deemed harmless to people.

Morale of the story; use ethanol free fuels when available, when not available always use an ethanol shield/treatment in your fuel. When having problems with your small engines, give "mechanic in a bottle" a try, what do you have to lose. Alot of the service stores/technicians use it on customers poor running engines and charge high dollar service fees, they love issues related to ethanol, easy money for them!

Disclaimer, I have nothing to gain from individuals purchasing this product. I am simply a consumer like you that is trying to rectify issues with poor running issues due to ethanol.

Good luck

Millerish

I bought a stihl 500i this spring. It has one, but it isn't a primer. It pressurizes the fuel injection system

I had a fuel terminal customer when I still had a job. That black funk was everywhere.

I like the primer bulb until it rots out.

Couple weeks ago i filled up my SXS for deer hunting.

Only couple local places have non ethanol. Only one open on Sunday. It was $3.85/ gal.

How do you like that saw?
Haven't had a chance to even fondle one, but have watched a bunch of
videos. Seems they are pretty awesome, except one guy didn't like it
for cutting smaller wood.
It didn't respond quite right to the on/off cycles of the throttle.

But it's not meant to be a firewood saw.



Don't know about the injection on that, but ethanol doesn't seem
to affect injected cars. I had a mid 90s Subaru sitting in the yard as
a parts car for almost three years. Had robbed the battery early, so
it was never started. Sold it last fall.

A guy showed up with a battery, almost dead. Gave it a jump,
And the car fired up with about 3 normal tries. Ran fine.
I couldn't believe it. A junkyard friend assures me that's pretty normnal.

Unless it's a gigantic tree, I'm grabbing my
Echo every single time.
Easy starting, lightweight and easy to maneuver.

you try replacing the plug, cleaning the air filter and running some sea foam? my 15 y/o ms290 starts within a half dozen pulls cold. 1 or 2 warm.

High octane non ethanol fuel mixed with a good quality 2 cycle oil. Mix in small quantity's. Don't mix large amounts and let it sit around. Use it up. I used to mix 2.5 gallons at a time when I was falling but these days I only mix up a gallon at a time unless I have a really big job to do. I still mix several 1 gallon cans.

Still running a 1985 era Husky 266 as a backup to the backup. Starts on 4 -5 pulls when cold.

For the occasional user I would look into the pre packaged fuel such as Tru Fuel etc.


Bought a new Husky 550 with the auto tune. Was skeptical at first but that saw is a screamer. Use it for thinning projects instead of lugging around a 372.

I’d definitely be looking into cleaning/repairing the fuel system and getting new gas. Old ethanol gas, stabilizer or not, will screw your small engines up.

A lot of the smaller Stihl's use a Walbro or Zama carb with no choke built in. Stihl puts a little plastic flap in the air filter that serves as a choke. Some of these don't function very well, sorta like half choke. I have 2 026 stihl, great little saws but the no choke feature is a bummer.
This combined with the master control lever is a two pronged failure. We dealers were cautioned not to criticise this lever as it was designed by Andreas Stihl himself. The Tillotson HU carb was the best carb ever, bar none.

I really like it. It is a ripper. I have never ran any saw with such quick response. On big stuf it just blows right through. I only run non ethanol gas 91 octane in it and all my small engines.

I try, emphasis on try, to keep fresh non-corn gas in the saws. The only one that starts sort of hard is my 346XPG. No compression release, and it requires a few more yanks than the 372XPG, Jonsy 2149, and 034 Super AV. Every time I look at new saws, I come to the conclusion I'm going to do everything I can to keep my now 20+ year old gear on the road.

I must have the only Stihl in the country that's not hard to start. 3-4 pulls max. It’s a Stihl 250.

My Husqvarna 362xp is harder to start including the primer bulb. But it’s a hellova lot more saw.

I was going to say that too. But if he’s cutting a PU bed worth, I’m not sure they’re up to the task.

My Stihls are at least 25 years old and still bullet proof, start on the third or fourth pull if not sooner. Always run non oxy here in all small engines if that makes a difference.
I also run a good cleaner thru the tanks once a year.
Wouldn’t trade them for any other. Just yesterday finished cutting up 7 cords birch for this winter, not a hiccup other than a chain change.

Osky

Newer Sthil with no bulb. Older Echo with one, and a really old Homelite with out one. All my starting problems went away when they started selling ethanol free gas here

Probably the easiest way out is finding your local Stihl dealer with a decent mechanic. Let them have at it. It's what they get paid to do. One of mine had similar problems. They dealer's mechanic went through it, replaced the carb, tuned and cleaned it for $46. They had the carb in stock and I got it back the next day.

We don't cut much firewood, but the saws get severely abused in marine construction and hurricane cleanup. Stihl's will still run after being on the bottom of Mobile Bay. They just need a little luv from time to time.

My el-cheapo Mac has a bulb and starts like a dream.

You gonna like that Makita. Carry mine trail riding to trim off low limbs and trees on the trail.

That looks like a really good saw. I suspect that a 20" bar would make that a real manageable gung-ho gert-r done deal working big tops. Same weight as my 391 and it has a lot more umph it appears.

Some will laugh at this, but the best starting saw I've ever run
was Dad's Pro Mac 700.

If you were running it regularly, it coughed on the first pull.
If you didnt catch it, a second was needed.
It could sit a month and start within 3.

Well I just started my approximately 10 year old Stihl MS260 to run it dry for winter storage. Choked 3 pulls to burp, flip choke to run and started on second pull, this after sitting for months. The only 2-stroke I have with a bulb is a Husqvarna commercial weed eater.

I'm not going to read the entire thread but a longer bar verses a short one keeps you from having to bend over so far. Increasingly hard to do as we age. I'm open to a 40V saw with a 18" bar for when I'm just cleaning things up and not making firewood.

My 15+ year old Husky 345 starts just fine w/o a primer bulb. I only use E0 gasoline in it.

Just checked my gallon can of VP premix and it’s 94 octane ethanol free.

Usually this means your carburetor isn't functioning properly, you've got the wrong fuel (or its gone bad), or you aren't getting optimal ignition. This has nothing to do with the presence of a primer bulb.

Fresh gas, no eth

hP ultra 2 cycle

Blew out all the dust, NEW air filter, new plug

Cutting good today even a half worn out chain. Hit it 5,6 licks with 2-in-1 stihl guide

100+ year old shagbark hickory

Had to scramble and get a couple bags of saw curlies sacked up.

Got thunderstorms bearing down and moving in, started to sprinkle


Got two big bags sacked up of pink, corewood of this hickory. Use it for cold smoking sacks of sausage this winter in my smokehouse

Filter was caked and impregnated with superfine dust, I’d say that was part of my prob

Probably, you hit to many trouble spots to be certain.
But why don't matter, it is running.

A worn down chain will actually out cut a new one.
Properly sharp and filed rakers, of course.

Those noodles make great fire starter too.
A handful, and you can light them with a match.

Smart...

I have a 24 inch bar on it. Eventually I will get a 28

For [real] cold starts I like that my Echo 590 has a compression release.
But it always starts on the 4th pull no matter.
My .028 always starts on the 5th

Dirty air filter and gaseyhol were the problem

My Husky has a bulb. I guess it's 7 or 8 years old now. Never had ethanol gas in it. Always starts on the second or third pull.