If you dont change your own oil.
Just go sit in the corner and please dont contribute cause you are a rube getting taken anyways.


Discuss!!!!

Kirkland synthetic with K&N filter...

20 quarts for $70 - at $3.50 a quart it's less expensive than most standard bargain brands.

Wooo!!!!! An oil change thread

Something an old Boomer can run his piehole all about even though they’ve not touched a drain plug in 30 years.

😂😂😂👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻


7 pages

Super tech full synthetic from the Walmarks. Bought a case of Delco filters off ebay a couple years ago, use one of them.

Just changed the oil in the wife's Pilot 2 day ago.
Mobil 1 and a Wix extended range filter every 10,000 miles.

I change my own oil, but maybe 6-8 times in my life I have just let Walmart (or whoever do it)... busy with chit or whatever...

ALMOST EVERY SINGLE TIME I have had someone else do it... something goofy happens.

1) Plastic wind deflector put back on wrong and falling off later (hours wasted bitching at CS to replace).

2) Leaking or cross-treaded oil filters (How the fugg someone can mess an oil filter is beyond me).

3) Lost crush washer on the plug (slow leak).

4) Over torqued the oil filter housing on a Toyota to the point of cracking.

I just can't stand the stupidity anymore... do my one wrenching.

Mobil 1 or Walmart Synthetic if I don't like the car that much... they are made in the same factory anyway. More PTFE in the Mobil 1? Maybe... I don't care.

My new Toyota Sienna take 0W-16... how gay is that? White Claw has a higher viscosity.

Rotella gas engine, Mobil 1.
Baldwin, Wix, Napa Gold. I've used Mobil 1 filters too when there was a package deal with the oil.

My diesels get nothing but Rotella Diesel.

There's gonna be at least one old timer talk about how theyve never had a problem with a Fram filter in 70 years of driving.,

Had a guy break the oil dipstick housing somehow. That was 10 years ago or so, last time I let someone else change my oil.

Exactly... How in the fugg can they do chit like that... it's a fugging oil change... simply unreal... and these bastards breath the same air as us... I might actually have to start wear a mask...

Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w20, with a Wix XP filter.

Rock Auto had the filters $6.99 each, so I bought 6. O'reily has the same filter for $13.00. Even with shipping I save $25 bucks.

Clyde

Mobil 1 and Wix

Just did my '11 Silverado. Valvoline Maxlife high mileage full synthetic and Fram extra guard filter.

Used to have dealership change. I told them Mobile 1 and PF48. After the 3rd time I noticed oil pressure was fluctuating. Looked underneath and it was a PF48e...big difference, PF48 has metal end caps more filter media and better bypass valve, PF48e has less filter media and plastic cage around it, cardboard end caps and schitty bypass valve. So I started looking at Bobistheoilguy and found Fram extra guard filters to be about perfect for my needs(look it up, all other frams junk) For my 5.3 I use the long filter XG10575.

So I did..
Mobil 1
Quakerstate Ultimate durability
Pennzoil Platinum
Supertech
Valvoline Maxlife

Switched off and on between oils. Two stood out. Valvoline Maxlife I can go 12k without oil pressure fluctuating. Supertech about 10k. All the others around 7-8K pressure starts to fluctuate.

Liqui-Moly (MolyGen) synthetic for me. 5w-40, and K&N filters, for the Saab daily driver. If it's good enough for Euro racers, it's good enough for me.

Castrol 20-50, K&N filter, for the vintage MGB. Hey, you asked!

(And yes I do all my own changes. I wouldn't trust the klutzes at the lube joints to even know how to drive these things, let alone have the oil I demand for them.)

Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic. Re filters ... you get what you pay for.

Mobil 1 and Wix unless it's going on a Toyota product, then I'll use their filter.

If it's a Honda ATV or motorcycle I'll use their oil and filter.

ymmv

Traveler (Tractor Supply) 15W40 from a 5 gallon pail in everything on the place- - - -3 Cars, 2 trucks, 2 lawn mowers, 2 tractors, pressure washer, generators, pumps, and a Harley soft tail. WIX or NAPA pro-select filters (same thing, one digit difference in the part number). No oil-related failures in the past 20-something years.

Mobil 1 and Wix filters or Fram if they don't have Wix

Advance auto always has a oil change deal.

Last time i changed mine,

5 qts Royal Purple Full synthetic + K&N filter for like $41.

Cant beat that.

I use Schaeffers 5w-30 full synthetic and wix premium filters.

Only syn oil I will not use is Royal purple and Amsoil
Only filter I will not use is a Fram.
Other wise oil/filter gets changed every 10K or when the computer tells me to with whatever syn I can find for the least amount of money.

Sorry, had to go look....extra guard didnt seem right. Its the Ultra...

When I was racing I used nothing but Valvolene and Wix filters.

Synthetic is a waste of money.It breaks down just as fast as real oil does.I change mine every 3,000 miles.

Lol. This worth atleast 2 pages.

Mobil1 and a Motorcraft filter.

Mobil1 synthetic oil and Mobil1 filter or Wix XP synthetic filter. Walmart has the best local shelf price on Mobil1 synthetic/high capacity filters but are often out of stock, so ordering one in advance online might be a good idea depending on availability near you.

If doing extended oil interval changes you definitely want the higher capacity synthetic filters. For normal intervals, a good quality regular cellulose filter like Wix, Bosch or OEM is fine IMO. They have good quality silicone anti-drain back valves, filter media and burst pressure. For the Honda, the maintenance minder typically indicates oil change around 7K - 8K miles and I just use an OEM Honda, Wix or Bosch filter. Staying on top of your air filter changes is equally important IMO. If you really want to dial in, you might consider doing an oil analysis or two. I've used the Wix Oil Analysis kits.

Valvoline and either Motorcraft or Wix filters.

Rene. All I use is mobile 1 full synthetic and factory filters on the gas rigs. The 150 requires synthetic blend or better and going full synthetic is the only thing I’ve ever done that helped with fuel mileage

Thats the one I use also.
With the 6 qt box of high mileage wally world syn havoline.

Bout 27 28 bucks total.

And I know its done right and not getting ripped off like we know what happens at some oil change outfits.


Oh my margret they sure did that oil change nice.
Yes Henry they are good young men


👍👍👍🤪🤪😄😄🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

This

Negatory.

Amsoil and Wix every 10k, and I have a whole bunch of used oil analysis to prove it has no peer.

MObil 1 and Napa platinums(WIX) or OEM filters. 5k interval.

Oh and the way they folded the ticket, so nice. Lovely day for an oil change.
Harold we could give them a good review on Yelp if we knew how to use our Jitterbug rescue phone.
Don’t worry Hortense, I will fire up the Commodore 64 vanguard analog with 2 meter shortwave internet patch and make a post. Oh wonderful dear, say hi to that VarmintLoad guy.
I’m going to fix us a lips and ass holes mincemeat pie and we can watch Crappy Days on the 13” black n white Philco in the kitchen

That's funny, my RAM requires synthetic and is rated to 15,000 mile per oil change.

Mobil One and NAPA gold or platinum

Under normal conditions changing oil/filter every 3,000 miles is a HUGE waste of time and money. Might of been a good policy 50+ years ago but not now. Blackstone oil analysis will easily prove oil will last a lot longer.

"Driven"... "Schaeffers"... or "Maxima"... Best base stocks and anti wear additives $ can buy... Note i use synthetic blends and 10w30 not the pissy thin 0w's and 5w's in my newer stuff ... No problems in 25-30 yrs... Just dont beat on it when the oil is ice cold!...For filters Motorcraft in my fords... Baldwin or K&N in my hot rods/muscle cars and Wix everywhere else... Fram and ac-delco are Shidt now...

There are several manufacturers that "recommend" these extended oil changes. Unfortunately, for many that means they don't bother to even check oil levels unless the idiot light comes on. I use synthetic and still change my oil and filter every 3,000 - 4,000 miles. Then again, at $3.50 a quart for synthetic, there is no reason not to.

What is still difficult to understand is the notion of a sealed automatic transmissions. They don't even have a dipstick or drain plug any more. Yikes...

Yep.

Ahhhhh.
Controversy...
Syn
Syn blend
Conventional

6qt box of havoline high mileage syn at wally world like 17 or 18 bucks still


Pretty good deal if ya ask me.....

Was using blended Motorcraft in my truck when I did it myself.- every 4k or so. I stopped- too much of a hassle. So now I get 5-30 Valvoline Synth and have it changed every 5k miles. in my G37 and 0-30 for my F150.

I'm still a 3-4000 miles kind of guy. Cheap insurance, especially with a turbo that needs lubed too.

Once you go high mileage oil, it "may" not be a good idea to go back to regular oil as some have additives that are designed to swell gaskets and seals. Would only consider high mileage if the engine started to consume more oil than usual.

Been using nothing but Pennzoil for almost 30 years.
Finally switched to full synthetic this year.

Oil filters? I used to think Fram was the best, and used them from 1975 (when I bought my first car) until a couple of years ago when I learned that they are now garbage. Now it's only NAPA Gold.

I bought some of that last month.....first "oil in a box" for me. The one I bought said something like "synthetic technology" which makes me think its a blend, not full synthetic.

I have been using supertech full synthetic but they were out so I bought the havoline which I am sure is fine. Biden has effed the economy up so bad you can't go into wally world and buy house brand oil.

Damn, now you've gone and reminded me to get oil and filter for the truck.

Motorcraft cartridge filter

Valvoline synthetic.

i use mobil 1 and napa gold or platinum filters on all my vehicles.

Schit, looks like Fram changed the Ultra....not sure what to think. Removed the metal cage and change the filter media. More media, but doesnt look as tough. The one I just out on is an old XG10575, the one I took a pic of is the new one. Both bought at Walmart.

Mobil 1 and Toyota filters for my Camry and Tundra. Castrol Edge synthetic if Mobil 1 is out of stock (try finding it at Wal Mart right now). I'm not a synthetic snob but I use what the book tells me to use, that's synthetic for my Toyotas.

The 99 dodge Diesel gets Rotella 15W-40 conventional and Fleetguard filters just like it has for the last 400,000 miles.

I change them at the interval the book calls for. That's 10,000 miles for the Camry, 5000 for the Tundra, and 7500 for the Dodge diesel. No way I'm changing every 3000 miles just to feel good, I'm not changing oil once a month.

Fram doesn't go near any of my vehicles.

When I was in college I had a job at the local Sears Auto Center which had me doing oil changes, tires, mufflers, shocks, etc. Oil changes are where they put the new guys off the street who don't know how to do anything else. If you go to a place like that there's a good chance the guy doing the oil change is going to be the dumbest mouth breather they can find who has worked there less than a week. Pretty much every place is like this, not just Sears. It actually takes a slight bit of training to install and balance a tire, but they figure any idiot can change oil, that's why you hear so many horror stories about oil change places. Unfortunately an oil change is something very simple that if screwed up can do a lot of damage. Unless you know the place well and know who is doing the work you're asking for trouble at these places. Chances are the guy working on your vehicle is Jamel who just got out of jail last week and won't be working there next week. That's why I always change my own oil.

Well at least one guy here knows what to buy!...

Mobil1 and NAPA Platinum filters. Change the Highlander every 10K and the truck once a year.

This^^^^^^

Mobil 1 with either a WIX or OEM filter and a change interval of 6,000 miles.

I try to sync my tire rotation and oil change at the same 6,000 mile interval.

Walmart's SuperTec and Costco's Kirkland synthetics are made in the same place, and pretty good stuff. Napa filters are, or at least were, a rebranded Wix.

Oilzum oil and Wix filter. Second choice for oil would be Lubrication Engineers, still using a Wix filter

On a related note.....new Fords have a plastic oil drain plug.

After looking I think it is to accommodate a tight fit. think it is a quarter turn with a click sort of fit. I hated the thought at first but wonder if anyone ever had any real problems with one?

this stuff.....$18/jug

Wix XP filters...Toyota OEM......K&N occasionally

[img]https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/da...ht=612&odnWidth=612&odnBg=FFFFFF[/img]

Warren Oil......

Read it on the 'net

has to be true

This is buggin the fück outta me! Try to hold a flashlight in your mouth and take a pic with your phone Looks like this new XG10575 still has metal mesh backing...hard to see in those holes lol

Probably a good time to swap out the batteries in the smoke alarms and the flashlights too.

We had a Chem lab at work and they checked Amsoil and Pennsoil after 3 thousand miles.The Pennsoil had actually broke down less then the Amsoil.So believe what you want.I know better.

You dont know schit lol

I put Mobile1 and Denso filter in our good car and SuperTech/Denso is the cars I don't care about. I've never had an engine fail due to oil though but I have heard of people running them dry which destroyed them. I suspect there isn't enough difference between the brands for my driving style.

Not a problem but you need to be ready if you just pull it all the way quick. Its like a 1 1/4 inch hole, lots of oil rolls out quick. First time I did it was using a old used oil catcher that has like a 5/8ths hole in the top of it. Made a mess.....

I have replaced the O ring on it once.

Mobil 1

Then you used oil that was spec'd wrong. I've got dozens of UOA's that say you don't know what your'e talking about, making it up, or lying.

He still changes every 3k. Stuck on old mindset. Wont convince guys like this.

On the Trooper, Mobil 1, fram filter. One the boat Honda oil and filter. These I change! On the Duramax free oil changes for life rottela, and Wix filters. Wife's car free oil changes for life mobil1 and factory filter. I had to pick the oil brand when purchasing both the pickup and wife's car! Same dealer, both vehicles!

I had an oil analysis on a JD 772 grader that said the bottom end was about to let loose. Resample and it's all good.. BTW the reman 9.0 was about $32,000

JG thinking of running Amsoil in the new truck(Gas) which one do you use and did you ever try their expensive oil filters?

Napa full synthetic and a Napa gold filter.

Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter in both trucks. And I change the oil in both trucks, slumlord

Mobil 1 (whatever SAE the vehicle calls for) and a Fram every 5k. (ETA I spoke incorrectly about the filter - I use a Motorcraft in the F250 and a Fram element in the Toyota). I stopped using Fram about a decade ago.

Although I'm thinking about changing to Castrol GTX , High Mileage synthetic blend, since I change every 5k.

Whatever is reasonably priced at Rockauto. Oil and filters.

I don' know about best, I use Mobil 1, and a K&N filter just because it has a nut.

I always change my own oil, simple job but don't trust a low wage earner of unknown ability to do it right.

06 Ram 3500 diesel gets Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic and a Cummins Fleetguard filter annually or 7000 miles or so. Whatever comes first.

19 Honda Pilot, 06 Accord, and 02 Civic get Honda OEM filters.

Mobil 1 0w-20 for the Pilot. Change when the computer tells me to for warranty reasons.

Kirkland or Walmart synthetic 5w-20 for the Accord and Civic, they have 170K miles plus, change around 7k.

Walmart has Quaker State full synthetic dexos 5w-30 5qt jug $16.40. Spend over $50 & pay thru Paypal $10 off. Got free shipping with +$35 order. Hopefully paypal & discover card extra 5% off.

Walmart Quaker State link

Slick Deal Thread Quaker State Oil

My Ram Ecodiesel calls for the Amsoil Euro 5w40. I've got 3 UOA's with it and it's done very good at 10k interval. I have not used the oil filters so I can't comment on that one. If you decide to get the oil, sign up as a preferred customer and get significant discounts online.

Looking at either Signature or XL 5-20 . I hear the filters are made of unobtanium so will go with a regular premium filter. I doubt I get 7k a year on the truck. So maybe a yearly oil change.I have a friend that uses it religiously in his Cummins diesel and is getting close to 350k on it. I will be buying it from him(the oil that is).

Don’t forget the valve cover gaskets.

Whichever name brand full synthetic I find on sale or the cheapest................no matter what some think, for a normal automotive engine in regular, normal conditions & use, there's no real advantage for any, just better marketing for some.

Fram, Puralator, Mobil 1, NAPA or WIX filters..............usually the upgraded versions, but at 5K mile intervals, again, it really doesn't matter much.

My 2 vehicles both take 5-20.

My 2 motorcycles are a little different story because of running at higher temps & they require 20-50 weight so the selection of oils is considerably narrower.

Mobil 1, Valvoline, Amsoil, Redline & Royal Purple all have been used with no issues; I think Redline might be slightly better in both lubricity & temp performance than the others, but that's subjective.

And I work in the automotive internal engine components business for a company that has numerous dynos..............we use whatever the OEM engine spec calls for, today usually a semi-synthetic at the weight called for, usually 0-20 or 5-20. All the test engines come with oil already in them for the initial testing.

MM

Are the Fram elements made out of cheap cardboard like their filters?

I've wondered if the bulk oil used in the oil change places was in truth what it is represented to be. The filters they use are not any I've seen for sale in stores. I had to take the state truck to Jiffy Lube or some such place. My captain refused my offer to change the oil myself. I caught quick change places missing grease fittings several times and one time Jiffy Lube's man had to be directly told by me to fill the oil to the full mark. He told me that as long as it was over the add mark it was good. I figure most any major brand of oil and a Wix or NAPA are good. I use Mobil 1 and Wix and the reason I change my own oil is not just to save money. Consider the type of employee that would change oil for a living.

+1 on the WalMart full synthetic, but IMO the Super Tech Filters do a slightly better job than the standard Frams and such (99% vs 95% filtration), so even though they are the bottom of the barrel pricewise they are a value above the mid-market ones.

Surprised me when I came to that realization, but there it is!

Lotta truth to this.

I also use the oil change to grease, top off fluids, and inspect the undercarriage for emergent issues. Catch things all the time, that could lead to real problems.

I have an 04 Malibu. Hardly changed the oil and used the cheapest oil and cheapest filters. I bought it with 89K, I now have 175K. The engine runs so well, but now it goes to the junk yard..... Sub frame is all rusted out . I bought an 08 Impala and has aluminum sbframe and shoul dlast longer. I might just go synthetic. It is a 3.9L. and only uses 4 quarts. I find that very odd they only use 4qts . so an engine that size with only 4 qts. may be a good idea to use synthtic.

Yup. But the correct SAE blend: 10-30 is pictured.

Wal-Mart full synthetic, motorcraft filter for my f150.

NEVER use a piece of crap Fram filter!

5w-40 Rotella in the year round engines.


Either Ford or Carquest labeled filters. Clarkscor?

4

As with a LOT of aftermarket parts, there are only a few real manufacturers; all the other "sellers" buy "private branded" with their name on the box or the product from those few manufacturers that are now becoming fewer & fewer.

It ain't about who makes it, it's all about marketing.

Just sayin'.

MM

Quality synthetic oil does not "break down" anywhere near as fast as conventional oil... However it gets contaminated with carbon and unburned fuel residue just as fast as regular oil... That's why it turns black.. Carbon is abrasive... So i change oil when it gets dark!... If you want the long oil change interval that a full synthetic can provide, You should install one of those remotely mounted small micron catching super filters like the big trucks use... I use the best quality synthetic blend i can find, It's a good compromise!...

If by "combo', ya include kit, and the filter is on toppa the engine, this is your huckleberry:

https://www.amazon.com/FOUR-UNCLES-...oil+vacuum&qid=1638847664&sr=8-4

Never crawl under a car again, and it's so easy, you'll do it on schedule.

I have Fumoto valves on everything.

Me too kingston. Wouldn't be without 'em.

I know you.Same,same.

Numero tres here.

woops...........use 5w30 in two rigs

0w20 in the other

Mobil 1 extended protection and Fram ultra. I run this combo 20,000 miles and get a used oil analysis every time. Oil and filter still have plenty of life left even after that many miles

I also do my own to make sure it's done right and likewise inspect while underneath. I also rotate the tires since the change intervals are close enough to tire rotation intervals. Just makes sense to do it all at once and more or less offsets time spent driving to service centers and waiting in a lobby. I also go ahead and do transmission fluid changes on the Honda on most oil changes. It takes about 3 to 4 drain/fills to change the majority of the transmission fluid due to the torque converter holding residual fluid. Rather than do that in one event like I used to, doing it at regular oil changes works out to keeping it fresh instead of once every 30K and is much cheaper than paying for that service. It really isn't much extra time or effort to pull one more drain plug while up on stands. I pull the tires and rotate while oil/fluid is draining.

Nope our head Chemist had a PHD from MSOE.He was in charge of determining which oils were good for machining,using in our Semi`s,fork trucks,fleet cars,fleet pick up trucks.I originally went to him to find out which oils were best for my motorcycles.His conclusion was synthetics were no good for breaking in any gas or diesel engine.He also concluded they were not any better or worse for use in cars,motorcycles.He also debunked that sythetics were good for 10,000 miles between changes.So if it makes you feel good to spend extra money and then throw it away by not changing your oil & filter in a timely fashion means you drank the kool aid.

that is confusing in my mind....
the people that make and sell the oil are saying this will last xxx number of miles and you are saying it doesnt
from the stand pint of selling product why would they say it last longer and lose money on sales and if they are no good for breaking in gas motors how come certain cars come new with synthetic in them costing the manufacturer more money....just seems to be shooting yourself in the foot if they arent any better

The Valvoline quik lube I go to uses Valvoline oil and filters so I will say that.

Not defending that guy, But synthetics [and all super slippery oils] can and do prevent new piston rings from seating/sealing compression in a timely order... I believe new vehicle engines today are pre-broken in after assembly...

My God, man; where do you find such drivel..................in both statements.

You are more than misinformed in both cases.

MM

I'm Listening ???

I am only telling you what a man with the right credentials told me.Believe what ever you want to believe.

I believe today's engines are built to tolerances that do not require a "break in" period. I believe the synthetic oil in the 0w20 weight is used to lube those tight tolerances and prevent wear much better than syrup oil we once used.

7MM loco is exactly right.I do not know if newer motors are pre broken in or not.I have built a lot of race motors for MCs.Do all the machining and work myself.I use a straight weight oil for the first 100 miles to break in.I then change to a multi V for the next thousand and change again.You can prove this works by simply putting a magnet on a new engines drain plug and checking it for metal particles after 100 miles.After the second break in you can use synthetic if that makes you feel good.This is what I do.If you have a better plan,lets hear it.

Wonder if Montana ever heard of Ferarra [sp?] honing stones for precise cylinder wall finishing, [ie quick ring seating]... or "Quik seat" dry cylinder assembly lube for almost instant ring seating in new engines... Or the fact that Amsoil [the mother of all synthetic oils] sells a straight 30 wt non synthetic break in oil [great stuff by the way!] for quick ring seating and flat tappet cam protection [ie high zddp, low detergent]... More than misinformed "My Ass"...

Yes... You're bark'in up the right tree here!...

I use Amsoil and their filters!

Yes, you are badly mis-informed, or maybe not informed at all.

I've worked for an OEM supplier of rings, pistons & liners for not only gas engines, but also diesel engines in both the US & Europe; I also started & managed a JV in the US with the largest Japanese ring manufacturer to service the Japanese OEM engine builders in the US, especially Honda.

With dyno facilities for more than a dozen test cells using radiometric tracing for oil consumption.

I also developed & refined the Mo/Ni/Cr plasma applied coating that was the Big 3 industry standard for more than 25 years prior to today's ring coatings having evolved to gas nitriding, PVD (CrN) & some DLC.

There also has not been a North American or Asian engine built with anything but a steel (not cast iron) top ring for more that 20 years, but I'm sure you knew that too..............

Rings for OEM engines (& most AM) have for more than 30 years, been lapped to very low surface finish & to light tightness at bore diameter & need no real seating to attain nominal performance......................that's why new engines basically use no oil as new..............& also to achieve emission standards.

All that with ring tensions of 50% (read that as reduced friction) compared to those of 25 years ago.

OEM's do nothing more than a short hot start to verify all new engines function & meet initial startup parameter values.

There is absolutely ZERO running of ANY automotive OEM engine built today for "seating" rings as you suggest or for some period of time for "break-in".

As for oils, most automotive OEM's today put in semi-synthetic into new engines, as delivered.

You should have some idea of what you talk about...........Sunnen, Barnes & Gehring cylinder honing machines are production workhorses, I'm not a honing expert, but all OEM's have moved from natural stones & oil to CBN or diamond in water based fluids.

As for high performance engines built by real professional builders............read that as NASCAR for example, those parts today have little to no resemblance to what goes into a production engine except that they perform similar functions & taken on the hole most tolerances are considerably tighter.

So yes, they will run those engines at nominal break-in cycles for relatively short periods & duty cycles before doing full power dyno runs before using those engines in a vehicle.

MM

Wix and mobile 1 for me. I don't know if it's any better but that's what I've preferred since high school. I usually have the dealer change it but I bring my own parts.

I watched the dealer use the conventional oil hose on my Toyota a while back when I paid for synthetic. I made them drop it and refill. I don't want conventional in it when they put a change again in 10,000 sticker in the window. After that it was back to bringing my own stuff in just to make sure I get what I want in it.

Those pit guys just grab whatever is closest on yhe bulk hose rack. They don't care. I get my empty mobile 1 bottles back afterwards so the odds are better I got what I wanted.

Bb

That never hurts anything, whether or not it helps depends on the quality of the new parts that you use & how careful you are during machining of parts to keep chips & grit out.

Also depends on how tightly you are mating some of the parts.

OEM's don't fit parts per se', as all parts to built with tolerance stack ups that are at their design levels built it.

Parts have to be supplied to very high statistical capabilities, usually CpK of 1.67 min.

As you probably well know, for the most part, today's automotive OEM engines will outlast most fo the rest of the vehicle, given just minimal care............lots of accessory items may fail before the core engine fails.

MM

MontanaMan... I stand Corrected... And you are Respected!...

No harm, no foul.

You know what you know, I only know what I know.

MM

Although i got "my ass" handed to me by MM on my loose & not well thought out statement about newer oem engines being pre-broken in [ the new part & machining tech doesn't require much break in apparently]..... I still stand by my statement about not using synthetic based oils for newly rebuilt hand assembled engines...... Almost all well known & respected custom engine machinist and assemblers [and also most of the oil co's that cater to them] Don't recommend synthetic based oils for fresh engine ring seal [ie break in]..... This has always been a "catch 22" [damned if u do, damned if u don't] for me as i build flat tappet camshaft engines that require an oil with high levels of anti wear ZDDP [zinc] to protect the cam lobes during break- in.... But this is at odds with the quickest piston ring sealing [ie break in]....... note the best break in specific oils for this are mineral based with both high & low temp activated ZDDP and low detergent levels so as not to wash the zinc off the cam lobes!.... Just my observations and info iv'e gathered over the last 40ish yrs or so.....

I don't think that what you're doing hurts anything at all & I'm not a lifter or cam expert, so I can't comment on the direct benefits in that regards, but I surely can't see that it would ever do any harm............see my comments to Huntz about similar.

But once again, as far as the rings go, they are already broken in, but in many rebuild situations, for me, there's always the question about how good the bore finish is, how straight the bores are & how much bore distortion there is.

All of those factors can contribute to the ring performance in a negative manner, with perfect rings. But again, what you're doing can never hurt anything as far as the rings go.

Newer engines & newer ring designs have much smaller cross sections so they are more conformable than older designs, especially the narrower oil ring designs & that better conformability helps with less than perfect bores.

In the last 20 years or so, the total of the 3 grooves rings axial thicknesses have been reduced by 50%, along with much reduced ring tensions (pressure against the bore) as the OEM's look for more & more friction reduction for whatever gain's that transfers into for meeting CAFE mileage requirements.

Older designs had a top ring width of .078 - .093" (2 - 2.5mm), 2nd ring of .078" (2mm) & an oil ring width of .158" -.186" (4 -4.5mm).

Today's typical automotive engine will be 1.2mm, 1.2mm & 2.5 -3.0mm, for the top, 2nd & oil ring widths, with a few having a 1.0mm top ring.

NASCAR engines today are running top rings as thin as 0.7mm (.027-.030").


MM

Interesting information once again MM...... And i agree, bore finish and distortion [or lack thereof] are crucial to ring seal.... My latest build, A 455 Pontiac was machined by an ASE master certified machinist [he is master certified for blocks & cyl heads] ...... We used a torque plate for honing with bolt depth shimmed to match final assembly..... He had a multi step process he used that included careful attention to temperatures [i don't know the details im not a machinist]... After cleaning, the block was assembled with file fit Speed Pro plasma moly rings [ at least i think they were from memory?]...... After cam break in on my test run stand [simplified here for brevity]...... It was installed in the car and showed no sign of oil usage or smoke or oil wetted spark plugs so typical of many fresh builds [including mine]...... Nothing but [near] perfect ring seal here!...... 7L

Motorcraft or Kirkland oil, i but motorcraft filters from Rock auto. I still change at 5,000ish.

Almost all oils are so good it really doesn't matter much what you use. There are some junky filters though

Funny part is, I've seen people debate which oil and filter is best for years... but most don't own a car passed 80-100k anyway before selling. So how can they really debate? My Honda currently has 226k, hoping it keeps going.

With today's oils, not sure brand really matters. I buy what's on sale, but I do run synthetic.

I43,000 plus on our 2006 F150

Interesting. Have yet to have an oil problem at 78,000 miles. I do change it at ~ 10,000 though

Today, virtually all OEM car manufacturers spec 5K miles & semi-synthetic.

YMMV

MM