was running my 290 last weekend a bit and it seemed to not use as much bar oil between gas refills. maybe 1/3 of a tank of oil to a tank of gas. it was cold as hell and i noticed the jug i was using said it was summer weight. saw seemed to cut ok but i only ran two tanks. i honestly never noticed there was a different types before but i guess it makes sense, viscosity, etc. i usually do my cutting in warm weather. i went out and bought another jug but couldn't find "winter weight", just all purpose. do any of you change it up in the winter or just dump and go like me?

I use the same bar oil year round, didn't know there was a difference but i'm going to keep using what I have until it's gone.

I've never used a winter weight bar oil, but here in the South I doubt that it gets cold enough to make much difference. I have read of folks adding a little diesel fuel to their chain oil to thin it in really cold weather.

Never paid no mind to the weight/viscosity of bar and chain oil.

I've only ever used 1 weight but I doubt I've cut much wood below 25 degrees unless it was something laying across the road.

Seems like once the engine warms up it wouldn't be a problem.

Blue in winter orange is summer.
It is -14 today, neither myself, nor my chainsaw want to be outside.
But I do switch oils back and forth with the seasons.

I honestly never knew there was a difference. My saws use a tank of bar oil per tank of gas or very near.

I run Stihl 260, 360 and a 661.

I used to thin it in the winter -20 otherwise you could not pour it in

Blue jug is for winter, orange is for summer. If you're not cutting a lot in the winter it shouldn't matter. If you're cutting every day you might want to use the right one just to be on the safe side

I used winter weight chain oil all year long in both my saws -- a Stihl and a Husqvarna. Use a bit more in the summer, but that is not an issue. My saws were set up to go through one tank of chain oil to two tanks of gas. Bar wear was not excessive.

ok then i'm not the only one who never knew there was a difference. i guess my concern is that i wasn't using as much oil as i thought i should. maybe its time to take off the bar and do a good cleaning around the oiler port.

SOMETHING SLIPPERY IS BETTER THAN NUTTIN!

Aww come on guys. What the Koombayah!!!!!

No diatribe full of ISO code particulate reports? So disappointed.

I have seen 100 page violent arguments started by something like " Gee, I prefer Pennzoil".


Must be the weather.

i was actually expecting that. lol

Its a marketing gimmick. Have you never warmed your hands on the muffler of a saw? I have, lots of times. Guess where the oil tank is? Right under the muffler! Turn your pump up a little if it concerns you.

how do you do that? can you do it on a ms290?

Former forester here. I've never changed the weights based on summer or winter. I know some to add a teaspoon of gas to the oil in winter. When I changed my own engine oil, I'd save it and run it through the chain saws. It's a little thinner than regular bar oil, so it worked great in the winter, more frequent fill ups on the summer. Someone is going to say this is a horrible idea and Stihl bar oil is the only option. Ok, you run only Stihl oil then.

Just to play devil's advocate what if the viscosity difference is for when your pour it in? Honey vs 5w20 type of thing due to the extreme cold. I don't recall one costing more than the other when I bought them. Used to go through a couple cases of each a year so I ran blue in the winter and orange in the summer. I don't believe it is a gimmick per se.
I've never heard of anyone burning up a bar because of using summer oil in the winter or vice versa fwiw. Just something to think about since it was brought up. I probably won't contemplate it much more beyond that, it's not worth it

I cut bar oil with some used motor oil in cold weather. Otherwise right out the jug.

One of my best friends was a logger in Montana back in the 1970-1980’s. He said they often used used motor oil.

Like mentioned, any lubrication is better than none.

Could be partially clogged with shavings allowing just a little oil to get by.

I don't run saws that small so I cant say for sure if its adjustable or not. Turn the saw upside down and look for a flathead screw recessed into the body. It will have a + and a - sign on it. Turn the screw to the + to increase oil output.
Like has already been posted, I run old motor oil in mine more than I do "bar oil". Im not paying $6 to $12 a gallon for oil. I can replace oil pumps for way less than what bar oil costs me over the lifetime of a pump. In case anybody is wondering, I make a living with chainsaws, use them every day at work.

Stihl says to thin 10% with kerosene.

The only thing that happens if you don't use winter weight oil is a little extra bar and chain wear.

Might be marketing gimmick but I can report the orange stuff won’t pour very well when it’s below freezing and the blue pours no problem. Remains viscous at -2 last week. Do what you want with your saw it’s your money.

MS241 and MS460 and I cut 30-40 face cord/yr. I run blue below 20F, mix the two (if convenient) up to around freezing, and then orange above freezing.

Just so you don’t think me an oil snob, I have a couple gallons of filtered hydraulic oil I’m currently metering in and using up.

Tribology, bitches.

I use the same, but it doesn’t get that cold here, will look at my jug. You made me curious

I was cutting a little firewood a month ago, it was probably around -15F ambient.

Had standard weight Stihl bar oil in the tank.

Cut for maybe 5 minutes before the chain bound up.


Opened the cap for the reservoir and slowly ran a little oil out onto the bar. Got the chain lubed up and cut for a little while longer.


Next time I cut I emptied the tank and replaced it with winter weight.

Seemed to help.

Chain oil I have seen is either winter (thin), summer (heavy) or all season. If its 90 degrees and your using winter oil then your bar will wear out sooner and your chain will stretch alot.

If its cold out (below freezing) and your using summer oil you wont get the oil on your bar/chain because its too thick, also you can mess up your oiler because its working to push thick oil through a small hole. The oiler is a little spiral type gear that is under your clutch and they strip sometimes, your saw wont get any oil then. In my exp they either work or they don't. Thin the oil with a bit of diesel, problem solved.

Your chain oil is oiling your bar tip too, so if its not getting the proper lube to your tip, its running dry and isn't going to last long. One tank of fuel/one tank of oil is normal.

I have been using all season, I get a good deal on it and that is why. I find its too thin for the summer but I save about 5 bucks per gallon and I can buy a new bar with the money I save.

As a Wisconsin boy, there is a definite difference. Sumner oil is much thicker. Using winter oil in summer, it’s like water. It just flys everywhere and doesn’t lube well. (But good to use if cutting in sandy soil- keeps the sand out more). Using summer oil in the winter is just the opposite. It’s like molasses. It won’t flow and can even ruin the oil pump on some saws.

I knew there were winter weight bar oils but if it's cold enough to need them I'm sure not going to be outside with a chainsaw. My wood cutting temp range is pretty much 60-80F and the older I get it's inching toward 65-75F.

I use sthil brand oil some and I used the winter grade starting about the freezing point or a little colder. And if someone is handed it does warm up in the oil tank as you cut and become a little thinner that does help but that does no good when you're starting out. There is a real reason why they make both kinds. In warm weather I also have a cheaper brand they sell locally in a white jug I forget the name of it that I can't tell a lot of difference between it and the orange jug . Well I'll agree it seems like the orange jug might be a bit better but does it justify the cost I wouldn't argue that

Just a little dab of kero will make 30W bar oil happy in cold temps.

BTW, bar oil is generally non detergent 30W motor oil, or was. That stuff gettin hard to find. A qt. of oil, $4. a pint of bar oil(used to be same) $4.95.

I'm kinda wondering if I didn't wreck the pump on my saw.

Last time I used it the oil didn't seem like it went down much if any. Chain was funky. But didn't cut long enough to really notice.


Either way just ordered a new OEM pump, $57.

If I want thicker oil in the summer I use STP for that, I put a bit in my jug and shake it up, and I use the all season chain oil.

Stuff I use is a bit different than motor oil it's way stickier and tackier and resist being thrown off.

There is an additive in chain oil, the good chain oil has lots of it and the cheap stuff doesn't, and yes there is a difference.
You will notice a difference when its hot out and your bar is buried all day and its way to hot to touch, and a bar up here is 130 bucks. The good stuff is 15 bucks and the cheap stuff is 9 bucks.

Back in the day we lubricated the roller chain on our round balers with used engine oil.

It was messy and after awhile the chain would get gunky.


I made the decision to spend the money on this stuff made just for roller chain.

It doesn't fly all over the place and is nice and 'clean'.

Anti-sling technology or whatever they call it.


$10 a can, maybe use 5-6 cans a year.

Yeah speaking of that on round balers I've tried all kinds of stuff and I'm not being 100% pleased with anything it either throws off makes a mess and the chains are howling by the end of the day cuz they're dry. Or it seems like it collects dust and dirt and wears chains and sprockets as fast or faster than running too dry. What kind of stuff are you using you seem to like

This seems to be the best.

Better than the cheaper stuff IMHO.



https://justicebrothers.com/products/automotive/specialty-products/heavy-duty-chain-lube/

I'll see if I can find some and give it a try this summer.

10-4.

Most times it's paraffin., if yer buyin the good stuff. It will cling., ya just got to get it to the chain in low temps. But, look up the characteristics of non detergent vs. high detergent oils. Interesting.

Harley Davidson uses it in the primary chain case, funny feelin stuff. But of course ya don't want to use their Hundred Dollar branded stuff.

Make sure some saw dust did not find its way in the tank. maybe partly block.

Good point, the little filter does get plugged, rinse the tank with a bit of fuel to clean it out.

Paraffin, I didn't know that.

I bet no one likes to work on your saws....
Used motor oil is nasty stuff. It stinks the whole saw up. Why not just add a little 30wt with no stickum (basically STP oil viscosity enhancer) in it?

But back to OP question..
Last month I was getting low on motor oil and I added a quart of summer weight. That was a cold night and the next morning the motor was surging a bit as that plug of thick oil went through the pump... After a short drive it sat for a few hours and when restarted mid morning the surging was gone..

You might also check/clean your intake bar oil screen...

Most of our firewood was cut in January and February so the temps were running well below freezing -- 20 to 30 below. Winter weight bar oil used to cost about 6-8$ a gallon. W usually cut 10- 12 full cords -- 4x8x8 feet. A gallon jug would last a couple years. we cut 8 foot in the bush, and bucked it down to 18-24" at home.

Couple years ... ???? lMAO ...

The guys who don't know, or don't use both, can flap their gums all day.
The price is similar, and Craig is right winter oil is a hell of a lot easier
to pour in your saw.

Except I don't buy Stihl.

PS. The cheap stuff is real thin, I often buy it for winter.

Good discussion gents, Learn sump'n every day!

I haven't used bar oil in a few years, started using motor oil when I ran out of bar oil. Either drain oil from the rigs, or bottles of oil for vehicles we no longer have. All of it has worked great, flows better and lubes the chain and bar great. Since I only cut wood in the winter, I always have enough drain oil to do the cutting I need to do.

In the winter, if it is cold, I just run the cheapest 30W motor oil I can buy.

In warm weather Stihl bar oil in orange jug — all you can get in North Texas.

My paternal grandparents’ sole heat was wood. Kept there pile full of post oak and a little mesquite until they passed on.

Never had bar problems.

I use used 0 w 30 synthetic in my stihl, works fine for me

I do ALL of my own saw repair/rebuild work myself. Im not paying a lawnmower salesman 80 bucks an hour to do anything to my saws.

And this is why they make winter weight bar oil.


Plastic worm gear that spins the oil pump got stripped out trying to turn cold, thick oil.

The worm gear is designed to act as sort of a shear pin in that it will strip out before the more expensive oil pump gets messed up.

Should add I am not a professional lumberjack and that this thread was a fun read....lol

There is certainly a reason for winter weight oil and summer weight oil. Bar oil most certainly isn't just motor oil, but contains moly-based additives to make it stick to the chain. The salesmen isn't trying to make an extra $0.95 off you. He's trying to give you the right tools for the job.

BAM!

Sam , ends the BS.
Was thgat your 1 year old Pro saw Sam?
Gotta establish it wasn't a 30 year old Pull-on(and on).
Or the all knowing will blame the saw.






I'm always amazed at the guys who talk about how long they......
Could be P-paw D-Dad, and Uncle Earle just kept doin what they did.
That doesn't mean it was right, or best.
If we followed that logic, we would be picking up sticks not running chainsaws.

I use the same all year. I’m way down south, not a concern.

Dillon, that stripped gear is from my 550XP.

The saw is around 5 years old.

I've cut firewood in cold temps before but the saw was always semi warmed up in a pickup cab before being started.

Very easy fix.

Same stuff!

Summer.
Winter.
Spring.
Fall.

Pull the bar and chain and make sure the hole where the bar oil comes out is clear.
Other than that, celebrate that your saw uses less petro products in cold weather! LOL!

Stihl Platinum for me. Never an issue, but we have mild weather here compared to some. I use it for insurance during the hot days as well as the cold.

Didn’t read every post, but many Stihl chainsaw models have a screw you adjust on the bottom of your saw to increase or decrease the flow. When full throttle lift saw by something and you should see oil flying on it from end of bar. If not using Stihl chain, doesn’t matter as others don’t have the grooves to get the oil to the place where the chain rides in the bar. Look at an Oregon chain after running a few tanks of gas and you will notice it is black from getting hot and burning the oil. Yes, Oregon has an improved chain now, no, not all Stihl models will have the adjustment screw. Definitely blue for winter. The synthetic can be used any time of year, but you pay more. Clean your bar groove with the scrench that came with it. The bottom hole on the bar needs to be open to let oil in if you flip the bar.

I own the Stihl 660, 500i, 462cm, 261cm, 250, 170, 194t, and 200t, with the 462 being the most used workhorse of them all. Also own an Echo 2511t. I keep the oilers cranked up on the adjustable ones. Use the blue jug winter stuff from Nov-March and the platinum silver jug the rest of the year. Go through about 4-5gals of regular and a gallon of winter oil a year doing a fair bit of cutting. A bit off topic but I have grown to prefer aftermarket Tsumura light bars vs the Stihl bars but use mostly Stihl brand chains.

I know a good number of tree pros and alot of them actually use the Countyline bar oil sold at tractor supply, which also is available in a winter weight. They say it performs fine and has an attractive price point.

I stick with Stihl oil myself. There are a couple other good bars out there as you mentioned at same or higher price point. For speed some file rakers down or switch sprocket and g to smaller size chain to increase cutting speed. I hate and will not buy safety chain; there is safety and there is getting the wood cut. Only RS or RM for me, big saws like RSK.

Yes I started seeing this a winter stuff a few years ago
There was some bitching on chainsaw forums about Stihl making the summer stuff thicker so
You had to buy the winter crap
I switched to hisqvarna oil and echo oil
It works fine on the cold
But then again I run pro saws with adjustable oilers so it don’t really matter

Define cold.



If you let the saw warm up for several minutes maybe the oil would get warm enough as to not strip the gear.

The gear doesn't spin at idle...right?


I should know, just took the fuucker apart...lol

Thought it only engaged with the chain.

Sam, You been in the bottle, again?

Sam;
Top of the morning to you my friend, I hope that you're all well and that calving weather and season has been going fine too.

Way back in the day I stripped out the plastic pump drive on my then new Pioneer saw using bar oil that was too thick during the Saskatchewan winter.

As well, for those not familiar with geography, I'll note your proximity relative to Saskatchewan.

Also I shall echo your question as to what one considers cold?

Up here in balmy southern BC, I run summer oil usually, but am careful if I pull out the saw when it's much below 12° F as the summer stuff is more like thick honey then, not really what might pass for true liquid anymore.

Anyways Sam, if whatever they've been doing works for folks wherever they are, that's fine with me too, since as I'm known to say there's a lot of cattle trails leading to Mecca.

All the best to you all this week Sam.

Dwayne

It seems the question has been answered. I will add one tidbit here. I under to do a lot of beaver trapping under the ice. A big saw was by far the easiest way to put a bunch of big holes through 2+ feet of ice. I usually ran an 066 or MS660 with a 36 inch bar for this and I ran VEGETABLE oil through it all winter long. It kept the bar lubbed up (even cutting the occasional downed tree) and I wasn't pumping bar oil into the ponds.

Used motor oil

Dad has been a logger in Idaho for 57 years. Mixes some used motor oil in with bar oil to make bar oil cheaper. Been doing it for over 30 years and he's really fussy about his chains. That would thin it out some too, although he uses the same bar oil from 0 degrees to 100 degrees.