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Originally Posted by SamOlson
This seems to be the best.

Better than the cheaper stuff IMHO.



https://justicebrothers.com/products/automotive/specialty-products/heavy-duty-chain-lube/

I'll see if I can find some and give it a try this summer.

GB1

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10-4.

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Originally Posted by 673
Originally Posted by ldholton
Originally Posted by gunzo
Just a little dab of kero will make 30W bar oil happy in cold temps.

BTW, bar oil is generally non detergent 30W motor oil, or was. That stuff gettin hard to find. A qt. of oil, $4. a pint of bar oil(used to be same) $4.95.

Stuff I use is a bit different than motor oil it's way stickier and tackier and resist being thrown off.

There is an additive in chain oil, the good chain oil has lots of it and the cheap stuff doesn't, and yes there is a difference.
You will notice a difference when its hot out and your bar is buried all day and its way to hot to touch, and a bar up here is 130 bucks. The good stuff is 15 bucks and the cheap stuff is 9 bucks.


Most times it's paraffin., if yer buyin the good stuff. It will cling., ya just got to get it to the chain in low temps. But, look up the characteristics of non detergent vs. high detergent oils. Interesting.

Harley Davidson uses it in the primary chain case, funny feelin stuff. But of course ya don't want to use their Hundred Dollar branded stuff.

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Make sure some saw dust did not find its way in the tank. maybe partly block.

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Originally Posted by wyoming260
Make sure some saw dust did not find its way in the tank. maybe partly block.

Good point, the little filter does get plugged, rinse the tank with a bit of fuel to clean it out.

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Originally Posted by gunzo
Originally Posted by 673
Originally Posted by ldholton
Originally Posted by gunzo
Just a little dab of kero will make 30W bar oil happy in cold temps.

BTW, bar oil is generally non detergent 30W motor oil, or was. That stuff gettin hard to find. A qt. of oil, $4. a pint of bar oil(used to be same) $4.95.

Stuff I use is a bit different than motor oil it's way stickier and tackier and resist being thrown off.

There is an additive in chain oil, the good chain oil has lots of it and the cheap stuff doesn't, and yes there is a difference.
You will notice a difference when its hot out and your bar is buried all day and its way to hot to touch, and a bar up here is 130 bucks. The good stuff is 15 bucks and the cheap stuff is 9 bucks.


Most times it's paraffin., if yer buyin the good stuff. It will cling., ya just got to get it to the chain in low temps. But, look up the characteristics of non detergent vs. high detergent oils. Interesting.

Harley Davidson uses it in the primary chain case, funny feelin stuff. But of course ya don't want to use their Hundred Dollar branded stuff.

Paraffin, I didn't know that.

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Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I cut bar oil with some used motor oil in cold weather. Otherwise right out the jug.


I bet no one likes to work on your saws....
Used motor oil is nasty stuff. It stinks the whole saw up. Why not just add a little 30wt with no stickum (basically STP oil viscosity enhancer) in it?

But back to OP question..
Last month I was getting low on motor oil and I added a quart of summer weight. That was a cold night and the next morning the motor was surging a bit as that plug of thick oil went through the pump... After a short drive it sat for a few hours and when restarted mid morning the surging was gone..

You might also check/clean your intake bar oil screen...


-OMotS



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Quote: ( unnamed) "been prtty deep in the cooler todaay "

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Most of our firewood was cut in January and February so the temps were running well below freezing -- 20 to 30 below. Winter weight bar oil used to cost about 6-8$ a gallon. W usually cut 10- 12 full cords -- 4x8x8 feet. A gallon jug would last a couple years. we cut 8 foot in the bush, and bucked it down to 18-24" at home.


"Keep thy heart with all diligence; for out of it are the issues of life." (Prov 4:23)

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Originally Posted by the_shootist
Most of our firewood was cut in January and February so the temps were running well below freezing -- 20 to 30 below. Winter weight bar oil used to cost about 6-8$ a gallon. W usually cut 10- 12 full cords -- 4x8x8 feet. A gallon jug would last a couple years. we cut 8 foot in the bush, and bucked it down to 18-24" at home.

Couple years ... ???? lMAO ...

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Originally Posted by Craig2506
Might be marketing gimmick but I can report the orange stuff won’t pour very well when it’s below freezing and the blue pours no problem. Remains viscous at -2 last week. Do what you want with your saw it’s your money.



The guys who don't know, or don't use both, can flap their gums all day.
The price is similar, and Craig is right winter oil is a hell of a lot easier
to pour in your saw.

Except I don't buy Stihl.

PS. The cheap stuff is real thin, I often buy it for winter.


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Good discussion gents, Learn sump'n every day!


Carry what you’re willing to fight with - Mackay Sagebrush

Perfect is the enemy of good enough
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I haven't used bar oil in a few years, started using motor oil when I ran out of bar oil. Either drain oil from the rigs, or bottles of oil for vehicles we no longer have. All of it has worked great, flows better and lubes the chain and bar great. Since I only cut wood in the winter, I always have enough drain oil to do the cutting I need to do.

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In the winter, if it is cold, I just run the cheapest 30W motor oil I can buy.

In warm weather Stihl bar oil in orange jug — all you can get in North Texas.

My paternal grandparents’ sole heat was wood. Kept there pile full of post oak and a little mesquite until they passed on.

Never had bar problems.

Last edited by ledvm; 02/03/22.
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I use used 0 w 30 synthetic in my stihl, works fine for me

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Originally Posted by OldmanoftheSea
Originally Posted by WayneShaw
I cut bar oil with some used motor oil in cold weather. Otherwise right out the jug.


I bet no one likes to work on your saws....
Used motor oil is nasty stuff. It stinks the whole saw up. Why not just add a little 30wt with no stickum (basically STP oil viscosity enhancer) in it?

But back to OP question..
Last month I was getting low on motor oil and I added a quart of summer weight. That was a cold night and the next morning the motor was surging a bit as that plug of thick oil went through the pump... After a short drive it sat for a few hours and when restarted mid morning the surging was gone..

You might also check/clean your intake bar oil screen...

I do ALL of my own saw repair/rebuild work myself. Im not paying a lawnmower salesman 80 bucks an hour to do anything to my saws.

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And this is why they make winter weight bar oil.


Plastic worm gear that spins the oil pump got stripped out trying to turn cold, thick oil.

The worm gear is designed to act as sort of a shear pin in that it will strip out before the more expensive oil pump gets messed up.

Should add I am not a professional lumberjack and that this thread was a fun read....lol


[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]

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There is certainly a reason for winter weight oil and summer weight oil. Bar oil most certainly isn't just motor oil, but contains moly-based additives to make it stick to the chain. The salesmen isn't trying to make an extra $0.95 off you. He's trying to give you the right tools for the job.

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Originally Posted by SamOlson
And this is why they make winter weight bar oil.


Plastic worm gear that spins the oil pump got stripped out trying to turn cold, thick oil.

The worm gear is designed to act as sort of a shear pin in that it will strip out before the more expensive oil pump gets messed up.

Should add I am not a professional lumberjack and that this thread was a fun read....lol


[Linked Image from hosting.photobucket.com]




BAM!

Sam , ends the BS.
Was thgat your 1 year old Pro saw Sam?
Gotta establish it wasn't a 30 year old Pull-on(and on).
Or the all knowing will blame the saw.






I'm always amazed at the guys who talk about how long they......
Could be P-paw D-Dad, and Uncle Earle just kept doin what they did.
That doesn't mean it was right, or best.
If we followed that logic, we would be picking up sticks not running chainsaws.


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I use the same all year. I’m way down south, not a concern.

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Dillon, that stripped gear is from my 550XP.

The saw is around 5 years old.

I've cut firewood in cold temps before but the saw was always semi warmed up in a pickup cab before being started.

Very easy fix.

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