Bought a small stove on a Cyber Monday sale, been wanting to put one in my house for a while and it was half price.

It’s a glass door, pedestal mount, 6” flue. Welded plate steel. I have 10 foot ceilings in the house, paneling over lath and plaster walls, and hardwood floors.

The plan at this point is to use a couple pieces of molding to make a frame on the floor to lay brick in for a place for the stove to sit. Use a support box through the ceiling for the pipe. And put some type of backer or fireboard on the walls in the corner I want to put it in. Maybe some old tin over the backer for looks not sure yet. Aunt and Uncle put a sheet of concrete board behind theirs and textured it to match the wall, it still looks good 30 years later but I can’t texture to match paneling.

Ideas, suggestions, anything I’m missing?

Is the pipe going thru living space above the ceiling? Are you using single, Double or triple wall pipe? Chimney exiting then the roof or a side wall?

there is building code for all of it, make sure to check on that, save you a lot of head ache...

Pipe will go up and through the attic. Not sure if I need double or triple wall pipe going up there, that’s why I came to you guys.

Not much in the way of building codes handy around here. I’m sure my 1930 construction house complete with unvented floor furnace wouldn’t make it anyway.

Round or 45 the corners of the floor hearth to reduce toe damage.

The stove back usually has a 1/2 inch to inch air space for air flow .This is accomplished by firring out with one by's and attaching a sheet of cement board.


Since you don't have manufactures recommendations, the final say will be your insurance agent.

build a raised hearth to set it on. Easier to load/maintain and brings the fire more up to eye level..... thank me later

What should I build it out of Hunts? I’m a pretty fair heavy fabricator and a decent pipe fitter, but I’m not sure on stone masonry.

Use triple wall from ceiling all the way out. Top of pipe must be at least 2feet from all surrounding surfaces within a 10 foot radius for it to draw properly .Remember to find someway to get outside make up air to it.

I’m thinking that my 90 year old windows and doors are going to provide pretty good ventilation.

I’m thinking of buying a kit like this. https://sutherlands.com/products/item/6896740/duravent-6-inch-duraplus-basic-kit So double wall up to the support box and triple on out the top?

Chimney needs to be tall enough.

^^^ This ^^^

And to avoid any potential undesirable surprises it would probably be wise to check on what your home owners insurance may require with indoor wood burners, as well, and also if there might be an increase in your coverage premiums, too.

+1

Have the chimney professionally installed to code and make sure your insurance company knows it. The chimney should be at least three feet higher than the peak of your roof.. You should have double-wall pipe at the very least. Double-wall will help keep creosote deposits down to a minimum. Running the stove full-throttle about 30 minutes per week helps keep creosote deposits down. Of course using the driest wood you can find minimizes creosote build up as well as a higher operation temperature.

Excel chimneys and pipe are the absolute best there is. Selkirk Metalbestos is probably the most common chimney in use in AK, and they are good. But Excel can withstand several chimney fires where a Selkirk should probably be replaced. You can research them to see the design and material differences in them.

You can put cement board down on the floor where the stove is going to sit and on the wall behind it, slate the floor and maybe put brick cut in half lengthwise on the wall behind it. There's no need to go higher than the height of the stove unless you want to. If the stove is sitting 18" or further away from the wall, there's no real reason to brick or shield it. But a nice slate pad trimmed in brick looks nice for the stove to sit on.

My recommendation is if your house size, design and layout permits it, place the stove in the most central location you can without it getting in the way. It will heat more evenly than trying to push heat from a corner to heat the far reaches of the rest of the residence.

If you already heat with a gas or oil furnace there should already be a fresh air intake somewhere. That should be sufficient to supply combustion air to your woodstove. The only real problems you could run into is if you have a heat/air-conditioning recovery ventilation system. In that case that whole system would have to be rebalanced to make sure your ventilation system isn't at negative pressure when using the stove.

Ya beat me to it.

Not only may it increase premiums, they may cancel the policy altogether.

Failure to inform them now, may deny a claim later.

Triple wall be the best, raised hearth will make it easier on you to load, clean, etc. it will save you a lot of bending over. The older I get the less I like to bend over!

Like they say, do it by the book.

Will the fire draw air from the outside or from inside the house for combustion?

As an example, an open type fireplace will use the oxygen right in front of it causing a vacuum and thereby pulling the surrounding air in to fill the void. A chain reaction occurs because of this and eventually it will draw outside air from the cracks/seals around windows and doors.

If standing next to the open fireplace you’ll roast, if sitting across the room you’ll freeze your ass off.

Most states require the chimney to go straight up through the roof with a minimum 2' clearance above the peak... Your base for the stove should be a minimum 6'X6' and the stove should never be closer to the wall than 3' - possibly more depending on the design/model.. The pad should be grouted stone time to prevent any ember from dropping between...

I've been burning wood in the house (stand-alone stove, not a furnace) for over 45 years and never had a problem..

https://www.hearth.com/talk/

Not exactly.

2 ft above a 10 ft Horizontal line.

https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Chimney_Clearance_Spec020-DFs.jpg

Tag

Insulated stainless chimney pipe beats the holy chit outta ANY uninsulated doublewall or triiplewall.......
singlewall flue below the ceiling keeps heat loss to a minimum. Metalbestos or Duravent insulated chimneyfor the win. And a pivot cap to max draw and min 'puffing'....

Can you still buy triple wall pipe? I was told they all went out of business, law suits.

Stainless double wall would be fine.

Recently installed this in basement.......although NG.......

Removed old coal/wood stove....for me too much mess & fuss...NG is cheap & clean

Built the hearth frame from 2x12s....covered it with hardy backer board....had some left over

cultured fake stone....just enough I may add...the actual top is 2" x 16" pavers....the flue?

Used the existing 8" flue but added a 4" flexible metal approved gas flue & wind proof cap

The shown 6" black is just decorative...NG supply was in room above so connection was easy.....

Have two vents in ceiling that let the warm air flow upstairs..along with a ceiling fan to keep air moving

As mentioned...the hearth raises stove off the floor.....better visual & easier to feed & maintain

Suggestions are ceiling fan along with a fan in stove itself to keep air moving from the stove

Laying the cultured stone is easy....just time consuming....rocks stick like glue with Type S mortar & backer board

Linky........stove I used........

https://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/majestic-oxford-cast-iron-stove/

You can make a pretty nice heat shield with copper. Fasten it with copper nails so that there is a 1 inch air space between the metal and the wall. Also a 1 inch air space at the bottom.
I bought the copper and laid it down on a big plank, and beat hell out of it with a ball peen hammer. Hammered copper.
It looks even better in real life than it does in the picture.

Someone said, the insurance company will get the final say. I have been burning wood stoves here for 21 years, the insurance company knows it, and they have never said a thing.

I figured, they would send an inspector up and he would take measurements, take photos etc. No. They have never taken a look at my rig.

I had three fireplace/stove stores and have sold and installed hundreds of these. There are specific codes on this. Don't guess. I also inspected a few burned buildings for insurance companies and I can tell you you don't want to take advise from just anybody. Feel free to PM me if you need help.

I would use slate or brick for the stove to sit on. Silver heat shield between the stove and any combustible wall with protect the wall. With the stove red-hot, one can out his hand behind the shield and it will be almost cool. The silver color reflects and, at the same time, does not radiate heat. The advice about providing outside combustion air is a good one. I have not done that and always feel that I should have. Luckily, the old home is well ventilated!
I have a Selkirk chimney which has been in use for 24 years and has been completely satisfactory. Our stove either burns hot or it is out. I never let a fire smolder at low heat. This way the chimney remains clean. This site is giving me typing trouble again so I'm done! GD

Is that a Jotul stove?

If you're not within a few feet of the peak, make sure to put a snow diverter above it so when the snow piles up on your roof and slides, it doesn't take out your stove pipe.

On the lighter side, I once saw an economic assessment for converting from oil to wood heat. With expenses for a saw, a couple chains, saw replacement, a new pickup/trailer, towing fees, a couple new rear windows, two emergency room visits, stove, chimney, floor pad, etc, the first year savings amounted to a negative $52,000. Have always heated with wood here and enjoy every aspect of it.

My sole advice - run a straight pipe if possible to facilitate draft and cleaning. A neighbor has a couple 90's in his system with a steep roof and has to pay heavily for annual cleaning. The cleaning, however, does not take care of his creosoted chimney cap and his system pumps smoke and ash into the house every time he opens the door. I run a straight pipe with no cap on top, and it will suck the chrome off a trailer hitch.

Your setup would not be legal here... Can't have that 90 degree bend in the chimney... Nor would I put those items so close to the stove.. Any stray ember and that basket's, ah, 'tinder'...

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This is not a great pic - the camera lens is a 14mm so it looks like things are a lot closer than they are - plus, this stove is a double-wall style on the sides with a shielded fan shroud in the back.. The brick wall behind doesn't get much warmer than about 100-110 degrees.. The previous stove was single-wall and that brick wall behind would store a lot of heat to radiate back into the room later.. The pad is 6'X6' and tiled with stone.. The chimney here is 24' in total length - and straight up through the roof..

I helped a local volunteer fire department put out a neighbor's house fire once several years ago.

Neighbor heated their whole house with a wood burner located in their family room. Neighbor tried to convince his insurance company the fire was caused by an electrical problem with an aquarium as he hadn't reported to insurance that they heated with a wood burner.

I was one of the first through the family room outside door and saw flames and smoke roiling out where the wood burner chimney went through the ceiling.
I saw no flames, smoke or anything even remotely indicating a fire at or close to the aquarium.

Yes it is the Jotul Oslo. A very good stove, and you reminded me, it temp is dropping fast just hit 43 outside, I think I will light it up.

tag

Guys I appreciate all your help. SimonKenton’s setup is pretty much exactly what I want when I’m done.

Bad news is the “deal” I got on Amazon may have been a scam. Stove is almost a week overdue and the tracking number appears to be bogus. Might have to start the search over again.

at least you got free shipping

Have you checked w homeowners insurance to see how much they want to rape you for using a wood stove?

Around here they want to charge a higher premium for heating with wood stoves.

I haven’t checked but my aunt and uncle live next door in a larger older house on a bigger lot and their premiums are not outrageous. My other Uncle is both of our Insurance agent. I don’t know what it’ll go up but I’ll check, I’m betting it will be negligible.

Kid...where are you located?

The hardest part for me was making really sure i had measured the place where the hole was going to be cut in the ceiling and roof.


After all of that worrying it was real easy and in the right spot.

I have mine in a corner of the living room.

It stands on tile/hardy back board and that sets on top of a hard wood floor.
There is also a sub-floor and a joist or 2 in that spot.

OH,i used single pipe in the house and then used double walled/insulated for the journey thru the ceiling and roof.

I’m in SW Oklahoma

Ditto on discussing with your insurance company and once agreed have a pro install it. The latter likely a requirement of the insurance company. When I was planning for my shop in Idaho I swung by State Farm to advise and see what affect it would have on my rates. The first question my agent (a good friend) asked was if I was installing a wood stove. I wasn't so all was good.

My buddy just put a stove in his shop. He said triple wall was totally unavailable. His installation is with six inch insulated double wall, stove to cap.

Ditto here. Double-wall top to bottom..

One guy I knew marked the center of the hole for his chimney by leveling up his .22 and firing a shot up through the roof. I told him I though a plumb bob would have accomplished the same thing better and with less drama. GD

I've heard several folks give good reviews having their local metal guy make a 1/8" steel sheet with "feet" on it and I think they were saying it was about 1 1/2' gap (feet height?) on the bottom and they placed it about 2" - 3" out from the wall....said wall never even got warm behind the metal and placing their hand on the metal was warm but wouldn't burn.

again.......my stove set up is NG........the burner system is fully & securely enclosed screen and latched in glass face

No embers or sparks coming out.......in the long run.....much cheaper & cleaner than wood or coal

I had the stove installed by a professional ....Everything else was my doing. I got 5 of my strongest friends and we walked a piece of 1" bluestone up the stairs leveled it and PL'd it in place, when the oak floor was installed I had them picture frame around it. I used some old flat moulding as furring strips on the walls behind it (for dead air space) and screwed 18 ga Q deck to it. I made a mantel out of a large old beam I had lying around and lag bolted it to some heavy duty L brackets I secured to the wall beforehand...Finished it off with a light sand and dark stain.

That looks very nice. I like it