I have a sized dummy(with bullet)case stuck in my chamber. A cleaning rod WILL NOT budge it. How can I get it out? Seems I have heard of a hydrolic method by filling the barrel with oil. Can someone tell me how to do this or help me in any other way? Many thanks, John.

Wooden dowel rod...along with Kroil ???

Don't use a rod of any kind if the round is loaded!!!!!

Take it to a smith and have him do it.

Where are you located?

"I have a sized dummy (with bullet)case stuck in my chamber."

What kind of rifle is it in what cartridge? If it has a long extractor like a Mauser you can close the bolt on the rim and then slip a sliver of wood under the middle of the extractor to force it to stay engaged.

If that does not work get a steel cleaning rod. They were made for the military.

Rifle is a Sako L-461 in .20X223. Location is Louisville, KY. Thanks for the replys. John.

Ouch, only .20"!

You could go to a mill supply house and get a length of 3/16" drill rod. Wrap it with Scotch tape where it goes into the barrel.

There is such a thing as a tool set called a "live round puller" which will do the job with no problem and no risk to the rifle. It is basically a bolt-diameter rod with the front end formed into a massive extractor. The trick is to find a smith who has one of these. The Midway website has a gunsmith locator. You might start there.

DO NOT use a wood rod it will split on the bullet and jam the heck in it .
Use a solid steel rod as close to the bore as you can get it will not hurt the rifiling and beat it out.

do NOT put anything on the rod , (Tape etc)

Maybe that would work, but you run the risk of simply knocking off the head and leaving the body in the chamber; not to mention the possibility of slight damage to the rifling.. Not to mention that when struck, any rod (steel, brass etc.,) will flex and nearly ensure you'll need to repair the crown. I would stay away from any steel rod.. If you can find a brass rod, use that instead.. Thank God it's a dummy round.

I echo Jkob; take it to a gunsmith.. You run the risk of doing severe damage to the barrel..

The worst one I had was a fired case jammed in the chamber.. Even Cero-safe wouldn't budge it.. Had to remove the barrel and set it up in the lathe, cut off the head and set up the reamer.. It finally let loose after about a half-inch of reaming and with NO damage to the chamber/throat etc...

Hmm, sounds like you need a proctologist...

Hmmmmmm....... over-pressure, what?

I guess I read that one too quick. I apologize for coming on so dumb. My solution would be to pull the barrel, it is so much easier to get it out that way, for me anyway.

Oh and thanks to RickBin for pointing that out.

I had this problem once..I went to a welding supply shop, and got a chunck of brass rod that fit the barrel closely, and tapped out the case.
Good luck Virgil B.

Nope.. Old, weak brass according to the owner.. Switched to new stuff and no issues since..

Overpressure was the initial thought since that load was originated for a different rifle.. But this was a 7mm Mauser; not exactly any kind of high-pressure round..

You probably have allot more experience with "area" than I do so I'll take your word for it.

What kind of reamer did you use? I would love to hear exactly how that works.

one can do this. guessing a dummy round has no primer. long drill through head of case. appropriate tap and use a long fine thread bolt to draw case out of chamber use a cross bar at rear of action. before starting spray good penetrate down barrel "easy out" just for kicks. of course this is for someone that understands and has appr. tooling. need a long drill and tap or extenson. of course all undersize of chamber by alot. tried hydraulic and did work but above is actually easier for me. after a snoot full of oil lost interest.

I had one of those. Mine was a live round, badly loaded and forced into the chamber. The extractor had torn the rim off and the owner had tried to hammer the live round out with a brass cleaning rod- which broke and jammed between the bullet and chamber (the bullet pas pushed back which no doubt expanded the case even more. I ended up threaded the muzzle and connecting a grease gun eo an adaptor. first the still live primer came out (caught with a cloth packin). I then drilled and tapped the primer pocket to fit a plug. Then I pumped that case out. I then crowned the barrel and fitted a muzzle shroud to the threads. That gun now shoots real accurate.

That was a long story. You could pump yours out by attaching a hose to the muzzle using a good hose clamp. It the primer comes out first, you can plug the hole with epoxy or 'loctite' it back in (it is a dummy primer)or drill and tap it (you need long drills and extended taps - that's a pain). If the bullet is stil in place (which yours is) you will likely not have any problems with the primer coming out. In fact, the hydraulic pressure should actually collapse the case, releasing it. The crazy thing is, the case may have been cooler than the chamber and has now expanded to jam up pretty tight.
Oh ... fill the barrel with oil first if you are going to try this one and put a rag in the reciever to catch the oil and case.
Good luck.

P.S I have heard of someone getting killed by a live round going off while someone else was trying to hammer the round out!

What? You don't know? I thought you were a gunsmith..

I have no doubt it's happened.. Live rounds are the scariest..

I've done a couple.. I use a slightly different method that involves removing the barrel and using the lathe..

Betcha ol' RickB would love to learn THAT one too...

I'm still trying to figure out your suggestion about holding the muzzle down and shaking a Colt Series 80 pistol to free the firing pin????????

I find it pretty amusing that you passed on using a steel rod because you were afraid that it might ding the crown...but you have no problem using something that might damage the chamber.

Why not post some pictures of this "mystical" reamer gag you use...and explain exactly how you set up this reamer to be concentric.

That was to see if the tip would appear; a sure indication of a broken pin.. Had nothing to do with freeing it.. Shouldn't have taken you that long to figure that out... But then, I rarely get into the degree of explanation that's made you famous... Try that trick sometime..

So, do YOU use a steel rod?? 'Something'? No, a chamber reamer... You should know that, IF you're a gunsmith...

Pix of chamber reamers can be found online..

In this case, I only had to insert about 3/4" and the case came loose.. Chamber was pristine. Every other trick in the book had failed before.. This was a 'last resort' type of thing and done only with the authorization of the customer.. You've never had to do that?? You're lucky to date..

Setting it up takes time but not difficult.. I assume you can set up a lathe, IF you're a gunsmith that is....

Boy, you change what you say faster than a politician!

Here's what you actually said:

"Sounds like you're right.. I wonder if you could hold the slide muzzle-end down, and jiggle it a few times and see if the end of the firing pin finally sticks out.. That should then allow enough room to push in the back of the pin and remove the block.."
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Sorry slick...but on a series 80 the plunger has to be depressed before the firing pin can be pushed forward to remove the plate, broken tip or not. You had this guy thinking he had a broken firing pin when all he had to do was pull the trigger back to unblock the firing pin. You'd think a "gunsmith" would know that.

Just because you couldn't figure out how to unstick a live round and had to resort to some Bubba gag doesn't mean others should or would do such a silly procedure.

I see you're also good at precise measuring. First you said "about" 1/2" of reaming...then you said 3/4" of reaming.














Sounds like you're right.. I wonder if you could hold the slide muzzle-end down, and jiggle it a few times and see if the end of the firing pin finally sticks out.. That should then allow enough room to push in the back of the pin and remove the block..
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Target moving date to Belle Fourche, South Dakota: May 1st, 2010, then I'm OUTTA TAX HELL WISCONSIN!
NRA Endowment member
Ex - USN(SS) (USS Razorback) '66-'69.

Apparently this was at an NRA or some national match (benchrest maybe). It was the man's wife (who was holding the rifle for him) who died.

By golly, you finally got one right... I plumb forgot about the plunger, but then I do very little work on handguns; I specialize in rifles... My bad.

Well, Slick, first of all, the reamer was used as a last resort for a separated case, NOT a live round.. I do something completely different for those.. I refuse to explain to you what that particular operation is.. Time for you to learn on your own.. You might want to get yourself a copy of 'Gunsmith Kinks' from Brownell's.. Lot's of useful info there, even for self-described-experts-on-all-things-regarding-firearms as you...

That's why I said 'about'.. OH, that's right.. You forgot to read that word.. It's best to read an entire post and comprehend before opening mouth and inserting foot..

I'm still laughing at your 'expertise' in WI laws...


Do you come by your arrogance naturally or did you go to school? If so, you musta got an 'A+++'.... Now run along, sonny boy and have a nice day....

Ouch.. Geez, what a tragedy..

Still waiting to hear you explain how you get a barrel running true in a lathe with a case stuck in the chamber. What do you index off of...or do you just eyeball it and start running the reamer in "about 3/4 or 1/2 inch or so"?

C'mon RIck, I think you are picking nits. I think the guy knows what he is doing and for someone as knowledgeable as you, should assume that.

He is.... Maybe a good handle would be NitPickRickB.. Although I think Sitka had a better one..

Amazing he doesn't know how to set up a barrel in a lathe..


As to what he thinks of me?



I'm done playing around with this complete clown.. It was fun for a while...





ps.. Jkob, nice job on that inletting for J. Knaub's rifle.. Forgot to tell you that..

Guntender. I think the tap and long screw is the method I will try. What size screw do you think would be good for a .223 case? And, in the event that the that the screw would strip the threads and pull out...Would I be screwed? As an aside, CJ Assesories sells a broken shell extractor but only works if the head is completely seperated. It goes in front of the bolt and grasp the shell for removal. I can't imagine it hanging onto a broken shell that is stuck really tight but they told me it would. Thanks everyone for the many replies. This(the stuck shell) has been a most annoying and perplexing experience. John D.

I guess for guys that measure things in "abouts" my question would be considered "nit-picking." After all, what's 1/4"or so here or there when you're running a reamer into a barrel?