Picked up my 10mm G20 last week, had a limited supply of ammo to try. Shot some 175gr PMC JHP, and they fed perfect, shot good. I intended to use this pistol for hog hunting, so I had ordered some Double Tap and Buffalo Bore Hard Cast AMMO, with 230gr and 220gr bullets, respectively. On the first shoot, would not feed the Double Taps, managed to fire 3 out of 6. Next trip I wanted to try the BB, because by working the slide by hand and feeding them that way I had fewer jams than with the DT. First round jammed as I was working the slide to load. Cleared the jam, got it to chamber, fired three rounds. On the third shot, my hands took a beating, got more smoke than seemed normal. The pistol was jammed, can't clear it, magazine is cracked up top, and the plug on the grip on the back side of the magazine release came out in pieces - that's what stung my right hand. This was with a Lone Wolf 6" SS barrel, supplied and fitted by The Glock Store.

Trying to find a Glock Armorer to take it to before sending it back to Glock (so I can be there at the initial evaluation) before sending it back to Glock. One of them on a forum - who lives much too far from me - is of the opinion that possibly when it jammed it pushed the lead bullet back, causing an overpressure, or that the BB round was just too "hot" for the only partly supported Glock barrel. Other posters on that forum seemed to hint that other guns have been "killed" by BB ammo.

I can't get the slide back to clear the action, or forward enough to get the slide to release to be removed, and I'd really lie to see what's inside. I can see part of a case, but don't know if it is a jammed live round or an empty.

Anyone else had problems with BB ammo, or 10mm Glocks?

Take a rubber mallet to it. Just joking. I am bored today.

What recoil spring are you running? It takes 22-24# to make my 20 work the big heavy hot stuff reliably. How does your fired brass look?

Sorry for the problems you had.

I've never used either. I've been tempted to try them several times but looking at DT's claimed velocity has scared me off. I know what the cases/primers look like using top of chart loads in the 10, and I have been hesitant to try these manufacturers who say they get another 100-150 or more fps.

I've also wanted to slug my barrel before trying hot hardcast, but I went ahead and bought some of the smallest diameter 40's from Bear Tooth, loaed them up, and they worked pretty good. I was pleased how well they cycled. Not one failure to feed or fire. The primers looked better than a lot of the jacketed bullets.

If you had issues with feeding, it could be the bullet was too large of a diameter. Bear tooth makes 3 diameter sizes of 40/10mm's.

Regarding the lock up, I think you got a load that was just too hot for your gun. Sorry for the Captain Obvious comment.

Thanks for the comments guys. The rubber mallet didn't work - that was my first response! The recoil spring is whatever Glock put in it. I just talked to a gun shop owner who says he is "sort of" a Glock Armorer. He says you aren't supposed to shoot lead bullets out of a Glock barrel, that he can show me that in the manual. MY manual says they RECOMMEND against using lead - not that they'll void your warranty or kick your butt if you do use lead.

Gonna take it in tomorrow, let a couple of guys look at it before I box it up and send it back to Glock. Really like the pistol, not sure I'll be able to shoot it without flinching for a while, even if I get it fixed. Shot two magazines through my 1911 afterwards, to make sure I could shoot without a flinch, at least with that one. Of course, it's a metal gun!

No need for the big heavies in a 10mm for piggies. I shot a good sized boar in TN with handloads consisting of a Gold Dot 180 at max velocity pushed my AA#9 and the bullet blew through the chest of that hog and scattered bark and tree parts from the tree behind it as though it had been smacked hard with a fast running chain saw. I administered the coup de grace on another hog with a Gold Dot to the forehead and it removed every bit of brain matter in its cranium and lodged deep in the neck of the hog. I would predict that you will have quicker, cleaner kills with the Gold Dots or similar.

Another possible problem is that Glocks are notorious for not liking lead bullets. The unique rifleing they use strips lead from the bullet and makes the whole works quite sticky and dangerous. Get a good smith to clear your gun, then sell the rest of your unjacketed lead bullet ammo. I would possibly be interested in it as I have a 10mm pistol that is set up to eat heavy 10mm loads with a ramped, fitted barrel and a heavy spring plus other modifications for original spec 10mm ammo.

MARK

The lead bullets have nothing to do with your problem , Glock say this because they supposedly won't stabilize with the polygon rifling Glock uses in their factory barrels. You need to run a 24 lb spring with the hot loads you are using . The Wolf barrel does't completely support the bottom of the case , even tho it is better than the factory barrel . You have a stuck case or more than likely a separated case stuck in the chamber and may have to shear the extractor to get the slide to retract. Try seeing if you can get the slide to come off by pushing forward after pulling down on both sides of the take down levers, other wise you may have to place a wooden dowel down the barrel and hit it hard enough to knock out the case or shear the extractor.

Texas99 watch this video.... http://youtu.be/Mj8Qt8ofCAw

I forgot to tell you the factory Glock 20 comes with a 18 lb Spring .

It sound like the source of your problem is the LW barrel. They have a reputation of having short and tight chambers that sometimes don't work well with heavy hardcast bullets. My guess is a bullet set back in the case from being jammed into the short chamber and that resulted in an overpressure load. The case ruptured and seized up the gun. You will need a gunsmith look over the gun to make sure it is still safe to shoot or send it back to Glock.

After you get it fixed, return that barrel and try some other brand.

All Glocks come with #17 pound springs.

You didn't shoot them out of a Glock barrel. You should be good regarding lead bullets.

Good to know. I've been thinking about swapping out my Storm Lake barrel for a Bar Sto. Looking for more accuracy. Is anyone aware of issues with Bar Sto?

If one is insisting on firewalling the 10mm, I'd stick to either the S&W or Ruger revolvers, or a 1911 with fully supported barrel (like a Kimber).

I chrono'd some DT 150gr loads a couple weeks ago, and they met every bit of the claimed velocity, out of the S&W 610, and the Kimber. They bulged case heads in the Colts

Off the top of my head this makes three blown G20's at the Campfire, plus another three blown Delta's. So far the score is tied.

my mistake they are 17 instead of 18

one of the things that might be a good idea if using any specialty ammo or what i do for handloads for that matter, is with the barrel removed see how the round chambers and if it lines up properly.

If I manage to blow a Smith 610, ya'll drink a toast in my honor

I've seen two different Marlin .45-70's locked up with Buffalo Bore ammo that was marked for use in such rifles. BB is not a member of the SAAMI.
The 10mm is a round that can go critical easily. Alot of the original loading data for it has been revised downward. Accurate Arms, for instance, no longer lists any loads for their AA#2 powder. I got bulged cases with starting loads with it.
The other thing, already pointed out by Safariman, is that it's a pretty potent round w/o going to such ammo. My 1200 fps. loads using the Hornady 180 gr. XTP penetrate just as much as do my 1200 fps. loads in my .44 Magnum using the 240 gr. XTP. Using Double Tap's 200 gr., wide flat point, cast bullet at about 1100 fps., it will penetrate over 50% more than the above loads. E

Cabelas in Buda had several boxes of Buff Bore "Heavy 10mm" 220gr hard cast @ 1200fps. I was tempted but finally talked myself out of it, at least for now. I'd probably try it only in a revolver, then maybe the Kimber, with a stronger recoil spring.

My guess would be that the Lone Wolf Barrel has a chamber problem.

I've been running Buffalo Bores hot loaded cast bullet for years though my Glock 20 & have never had a problem. That's with me using the Original Glock Factory Barrel. I was a Glock Armor for 15 years, but finally let my Certification expire, because basically I just got tired of going to the same old boring ass Glock School.
Not a whole lot of changes in Glocks in the last 23 years I've been shooting them.
I also shoot a lot of Hornady 200 grain XTP HP's through my Glock 20. With my handload, which is a Max load of AA-9, their pushing 1375 FPS on my Chrono.
Again, No Problems Whatsoever.

I do own a Lone Wolf Barrel in .357 Sig caliber that I use in my Glock Model 24 Long Slide in .40 S&W cal. I've never had a problem with my Lone Wolf barrel In that Glock, but I've heard of others that have had problems. JMHO, though.

Thanks, guys. I hope to have it taken apart soon, and see what did happen. Might not be that serious, maybe just a stuck case? Bothered me that it would not feed the DT OR BB ammo. I ordered this pistol from the Glock store, they put in a 4.5# connector, extended slide release, and the Lone Wolf barrel. I thought it was going to be a Glock barrel until it showed up, but the shop that received it for me seemed to think the LW barrel would be better. Of course, lighter bullets at a fairly high velocity will do for hunting, but I wanted to "test" the range of available hunting ammo, and of course ammo is not easy to come by these days. Hopefully we'll get this pistol "running" again soon, and start over with a bit lighter loads.

Having tried 215 grs, I'll just say that 200's are an excellent choice.

Contact Doubletap, Mike Mcnett was the original owner and loaded for Glocks for years. I'm sure if there is a problem with the ammunition he will take care of you? Take pictures, write down the lot number and any other pertinent information. I always used longshot and 180 XTP's with CCI primers and Winchester Brass.

Plus a bunch. Same with the Glock store, and same with the shop that got it for you. It's better when everyone is in the loop, for you and for them and the next guy.

Got it un-jammed. Turned out to be a Double Tap round that was stuck in it, case had blown out just past the rim. The gunsmith who go it open through expert application of a hammer padded with a special old gym sock thinks it did not go completely into battery, yet fired anyway - which would have left the case even more "unsupported" than usual. Every experience is a learning experience for me, and from this I learned not to run extremely "hot' loads in that pistol. Have a new magazine release button ordered, and when it arrives I can try to "blow it up" again!

I will say that I would have expected more damage to a plastic pistol, maybe I was just lucky.

Good to hear. Best part is you didn't get hurt.

I'm glad you are okay too.... Now how about posting a report on if you managed to avoid a chronic flinch problem shooting this gun

Its not the ammo or the guns fault, it is the after market barrel that is the problem. With proper recoil spring weight, the G20 can handle anything the 10mm is capable of dishing out. Loose that crap barrel and you shouldn't have anymore problems.

You can see for yourself buy doing a "plunk test". Remove the barrel from the gun, take a round of the same ammo and drop it into the chamber. I'm guessing it wont chamber properly. It should slide fully into the chamber without resistance.

I've ran a couple different LW barrels and I did have problems with 1 in a glock 20. The gun would constantly jam with that barrel in place. It also left the same smile bulge that the factory glock barrel left. Alot of people think that aftermarket barrels fully support the chamber, they dont. Some are better than others but none are fully supported in the glock platform.

Here is a pick of what I'm talking about. One of these was the factory barrel and one was the lone wolf. Hardly tell the difference. Taking the 10mm that hot with the 230's will eventually lead to a problem. The case will rupture. Sorry for the less than stellar picks. Camera is not the best.

I tried all the ammo in the original Glock 4" barrel before trying to cycle it in the pistol. The Double Tap stuff had to be "shaken" or tapped out, mostly. It measured quite a bit shorter than the ammo of the other two brands I had, also. I have never seen any reason to run ammo at maximum levels, just bought the DT ad BB stuff because A., I intended to hunt with it, and B. - it was available. Whether or not it would safely shoot when I get the Glock back together, if it won't feed, I won't be trying to shoot it. Turns out I didn't shoot any Buffalo Bore ammo, only Double Tap, but the BB stuff didn't feed much better than the DT when I cycled some through by hand.

As to the flinch, I'm sure I'll have to "watch" it with the Glock. After the incident, though, I shot about 15 rounds through my 1911 .45ACP, just to make sure I wasn't permanently gun shy!

That is why I got out of the Glock 20 business. My brass looked just like that with PMC 200gr FMJ ammo. I figured the brass was compromised and weakened, prone to rupture if reloaded.

The 10mm is proportionaly long for it's diameter, and harder to make that turn into the chamber with a fully supported chamber (at least to the web).

I like my Glocks (a lot), but for a heavy hitter I go to my Ruger SBH 44 Mag.

I totally agree. I gave the 20 a shot a couple times and could not get comfortable with this setup. Brass was not safely reloadable and it seemed to be on the ragged edge of pressure with the DT and BB loads.. I too love my glocks but will stick with other calibers.

A fully ramped barrel that supports the full case in a good 1911 is still 10mm and big hangun Nirvannah for me.

As powerful as I need a handgun to be. If I need more, I am reaching for a rifle. Never saw the draw of a 4lb "handgun" that tries to pull your pants down or give one an aching neck and shoulders from all of that weight on a shoulder rig. As always, YMMV. Glad we have so many great options right now!

I'll probably try a Delta 1911 one day. I do like what the 10mm brings to the table.

If you do, I reccomend spending the coin to have JAck Huntington at JRH custom guns to install a ramped barrel and time it to keep the barrel and slide together a tad longer in the recoil cycle.

The RIA 10mm that I looked over this week COMES WITH a ramped barrel, pretty shootable trigger, bump in the beavertaill grip safety, checkered flat mainspring housing, Novak adjustable rear sight and a lot of other cool features. Might be worth a look.

Did you notice if there was a common problem like certain ammo?

Seems to me that the combination of an unsupported cartridge case combined with original Dorneaus and Dixon/Norma loads is bad JuJu. Moderate or Dumbed down loads work fine in all of them. Switch out the barrels, and maybe the recoil springs and they all take even pretty stout loads from what I have gathered and experienced so far.

Spot on. a flat breached semi auto will not fully support the case head. Even a Rem-700 bolt action leave .020" case unsupported. This also includes the "ramped artels" which were originally used to repair a feed ramp that was too far forward.

IMHO the 45 Super is a superior round, with lower peak pressure and larger bullet diameter

Kimber barrel 10mm barrel on the left, factory Colt on the right



The ramped barrels definitely help in the 1911; the Kimber will accept loads, such as factory Double Tap, that bulges case heads in a Colt. Of course, the Colts eat anything, out of any magazine, and the Kimber has been fussy, so there's tradeoffs.

I've been thinking of getting a LW barrel for my G34, it would be interesting if someone could post a similar photo of a factory Glock, and a LW barrel.

The photo clearly shows that there is still plenty of unsupported case

I disagree, that Kimber has about as much case support as your going to get in an auto barrel.

Disagree all you want to, but neither one is "FULLY SUPPORTED"

That's the nature of the beast, not auto is going to have a "FULLY SUPPORTED" barrel. Some are just closer than others.

Exactly���..

Well, that Kimber barrel looks to have full support into the web area of the case. Meaning the case wall proper, is surrounded by steel, not air.

IMO that's the most important part of the equation as far as support goes.

As I understand it, chlinstructor, running anything "for years," does say much about the gun or the ammo. It's the number of rounds that went through the gun.
You are getting 1375 fps. with the 200 gr. Hdy XTP ? The old factory Norma's got 1200 fps. with their ammo which is widely recognized as loaded too hot. E

tex n cal,

Here's a look at a factory G17 barrel, beside a LW 9mm conversion barrel for a G22. Support-wise, they are about equal.

I'll take a similar pic with rounds setting in the chambers.

G17 bbl left, LW 40-9 bbl right. The Glock looks like it actually supports more than the LW.



One thing I discovered with the LW barrel is that I had to seat bullets a bit deeper to get off the lands. The Glock barrel has enough throat to load to 1.169", the LW needs oal of about 1.081" to get off the lands, with a 147gr XTP.

Interesting. My G34 barrel is a little sloppy, and accuracy is very average despite being a "target" model. The LW barrel shoot any better for you?

I couldn't tell a difference in accuracy with the 9mm conversion barrel. But I don't benchrest my pistols.

From standing either barrel is better than me, I'm sure, but i can keep most of my shots inside 3" at 25 yards, modified weaver.

I guess I need to start loading a bit heavier...I haven't blown my G20 up yet!

+1

Same results I got. Alot of guys were saying to get a LW barrel because it supported the case better than th glock. I found the same results as the pic shows.

Didnt blow either of my 2 up. There is some things people need to be aware of though when jumping into this platform. Bad things can happen if your not careful.

Was there any lasting damage done to the pistol itself? If so what did Glock say about a warranty claim on it?

My guess, like others have mentioned, would be that the LW barrel with it's shorter and tighter "match grade??" chamber would also be part of the problem. They are notorious for having problems with lead bullets but claim that their barrels will handle any and all factory rounds.

I would contact them and see what light they have to shed on it if any and then if you would post their response also it would be informative.

My LW barrel did increase accuracy in a pretty big way. Did have some FTF with that barrel also. I think you're giving up some reliability when going to that barrel because of the tighter chamber.

As far as I can tell, the only real damage to the pistol was that the mag release will have to be replaced. The plug in the grip opposite the button blew out in two pieces. I have been told that Glock leaves the bottom of the grip under the backstrap open as a release vent in case something like this happens. The grip DID get rather warm, and that piece blew out, so I guess it worked - and it didn't. Also ruined the magazine. I am not going to take it up with Glock, as I don't fault the pistol. It seemed to have been a minor sort of "perfect storm" in which the jam caused a setback of a bullet and a resulting over pressure and case rupture. I may contact Lone Wolf, will certainly watch how "hot" the loads are I use in it. I rarely shoot maximum loads in anything, so that wouldn't be a big deal for me. Will also not shoot Hard Cast Lead ammo if it jams or fails to feed when I test-cycle it by hand.

Gunchamp, please expand on what sort of things we need to be aware of when "jumping into this platform"? Are you referring to the 10mm, or the Glock 20 in 10mm? Serious question, I'd lime to know what you know?

I'm talking about the glock 20 and the unsupported case. Buying an aftermarket barrel does not cure the problem. When you handload the 10mm hot you should only use the brass once. If not, you WILL eventually have a problem. Also when you're shooting full house loads in a glock, there is a very good possibility of a case rupture do to the chamber. Those loads I took pics of were not overly hot and that brass was junk with 1 firing. You can see how a load that is a tad too hot can blow and make bad things happen. That is what I'm refering to. Water down the 10mm a touch in the glock 20 would not be a bad thing. I'm sure there are guys who put many "hot" loads through their 20 and it has worked so far, but that doesnt make it safe.

gun champ, is spot on

I'm pretty much leaning the same way. Don't need max loads, won't shoot them again. I basically prefer 1911's to other semi-auto pistols, just because I LIKE them, but there are things to like about the Glock, also. I'll fix it, (try) to shoot it, and if I decide I don't like it, let someone else have their turn. I'm learning that my "Problem" was probably a convergence of "hot" ammo that would not feed, not fully supported barrel that was not well suited to the ammo - lot's of "Nots". Also several things I'm "Not" going to do again.

On the maybe plus side, I HAVE now experienced a cartridge blow-out it a Glock - and lived through it. I can discuss it first hand, 'cuz I was there..

agreed.
I have a 6" compensated LW in my G 20 now ( after I kaboomed the stock barrel)
10mm is pushing limits of case strength.
I have seen it in my hand loads.
I always shoot jacketed slugs. And after 2-3 reloads, the cases are reserved for .40 S & W level loads only.

Take a wooden dowel into your gun and knock it open. May take 4 hands. You will see what the caase did.

I'm thinking for me, SAAMI-spec loads for Colts, or other pistols wth unsupported barrels, are the best choice (and most likely to function 100%). That will include Glocks. The gun might be mechanically durable, but too many people have kaboomed them, for me to get very adventurous.

From what I have seen in limited testing, you might get 100-150 fps more out of a supported barrel - like the Kimber above, without getting smiles on the cases. If I plan to really push things, then I'll turn to the revolver. Even the 5" S&W barrel gave higher velocity than any of the 5" 1911's.

S&W made 610's with 6.5" barrels, and Ruger made a few Blackhawks in .38-40/10mm Convertibles. I reckon one of them would give your highest velocity out of a 10mm. The S&W's are spendy, the Rugers a little less.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=342874553

I just primed around 850 cases that had all be shot through a stock Glock barrel and all had been loaded close to top of modern reloading data probably 3 or 4 times at least. I typically find the best accuracy near the top. All the primers seated tightly. Nothing slid right in. I'll probably use these for lighter loads.

After getting 1K of new Starline brass upon buying a Storm Lake barrel, I was going to pitch my "old" brass, but in going through them, I could not find one with a case bulge. I would have noticed anyway, because I handload everything for my centerfires, and always look at each case I pick up for primer issues or splits and bulges. So after reading a lot of the recent posts on here I went and looked at my stock Glock barrel. It seems to support the case about as well as the aftermarket barrel. I can't visually see any difference and I would think that the only portion in the web portion of the case not supported is around .0020 or thereabouts. Not much, and nothing nearly like some case bulges I have seen in pictures. I'm guessing they must blow out like a balloon.

Not sure if that is because it is from a mid-90's G20, or if age would have anything to do with it.

I just picked up on this thread... Don�t know why i didn't see it before. I have a G20 that i have just switched to a LWD barrel. I have been shooting the DT hard casts(I think 230grn). I have gotten about 2 boxes through with no misfire or jamming.

I shot about two boxes through with me stock barrel to and haven�t had a failure.

I use this as a primary back country side arm and don�t shoot it recreationally. I do shoot it but i don�t pound boxes through it. I have read that people in my instance should replace the spring for a heavy duty spring and replace the guide rod. Does anyone have any recommendations for one?

Also i was saving all my brass from it to reload.... Now I�m getting kind of scared reading all the above posts. I have never looked at my cases that close. Should i be worried? Maybe only reload twice and then toss the cases?

I use the 24 lb in my Glock 20 SF

I've had a Glock 20 for a number of years with no problems. I put a 22 pound recoil spring in it and a steel spring guide. I only load new Starline brass and don't bother to pick it up. I use enough 2400 to get an even 1200 fps from 180 grain XTP's. This satisfies, for me, what I want out of an auto pistol for carrying around in dirty conditions (tractor, horseback, ATV, etc). If I want more horsepower in a handgun I go to a revolver. If I want to carry a fighting pistol concealed I go to a .45 or a .40. Just my $0.02

I spent some time on the phone with an "industry insider" who told me to stay away from ANY aftermarket barrels for Glocks. He said that the cause of "Kabooms" had little to do with chambers being tight, but that ALL aftermarket barrels, in his experience, were out of spec on locking lug placement and shape. He says the Glock will fire out of battery (test by pulling the slide back when cocked and UNLOADED and pulling he trigger), and the out of spec barrels make this almost a certainty, rather than a possibility.

I m going to handle cycle some of the DT and BB rounds, just to see if they will feed with the Glock barrel in place, but will probably not fire them in this pistol.

My replacement mag release arrived, and when we put it in I also removed the 6" LW barrel and put the stock 4.6" Glock barrel back in. I then shot two magazines through it - one of American Eagle 180gr FMJ, the other PMC 175gr JHP - with no problems. Accuracy was not as good as the few shots I had gotten out of the LW barrel, but I may have been "overly cautious" after what had happened the last time I fired the pistol. I bought a new magazine to replace the one involved in the "accident", but mistakenly loaded the injured one - and it fed and functioned fine. Nothing was cracked except the plastic coating, and once home I trimmed that piece and super glued it in place.

Plan to approach the Glock Store about giving them back the LW barrel because it does not feed well. Would like to swap it in on the Glock 6" "Hunting" barrel, but will just use the stock barrel if necessary.

I think the Glock will work for me now, even though I would still prefer a 18911.

I shot my stock Glock barrel with lots of reloads and never had any issues with the gun or the brass. I bought a Storm Lake barrel due to the kaboom issues I became aware of a short time before that purchase. I've not had any issues with the Storm Lake barrel, either but I don't think it's as accurate as the original, but that is not by a wide margin.

I previously said the stock barrel did about as good as the Storm Lake for supporting the case. I believe it must have been late that night. I just took a pic of both barrels, side by side, and the Storm Lake easily bests the stock Glock in case support. I believe I will keep using it, plus the Glock has a rep for problems due to their polygonal rifling with lead bullets. Having recently "seen the light" regarding hard cast bullets, the aftermarket makes even more sense.

I just tested the chamber on the Lone Wolf barrel, by dropping loaded rounds in with no pressure applied. Had previously done this with the Glock barrel, and all the ammo I had "passed". With the LW, the two factory loads from PMC and American Eagle also passed, as did the few hand loads I had worked up, but not yet shot that were full-length sized.

The Double Tap 230gr HCL loads did not fully chamber without pressure, and of course would not fall out, even when simply dropped. The Buffalo Bore 220gr HCL barely went half way in! Barrel problem, or ammo problem, or some off both?

According to Buffalo Bore and others, Hard Cast Lead - which is of course not pure lead - does not lead to "leading" problems in Glock barrels, for whatever that is worth?

Did you test the DT or BB ammo in your Glock barrel or try taper crimping? It sounds like neither has sufficient crimp. Odd, coming from two different mfrs.

For me, I'm just going to continue using my handloads. I test each round for sizing issues, using the barrel as the gauge. I think another poster called it the "plunk" test. I like that , even if it is more a "clink" metallic sound.

Actually, both the DT and BB ammo fed through the Glock barrel when I cycled them manually this morning. For my hand loads, I am using a Lee Factory Crimp Die, and those pass the "plunk" test in the LW barrel. Some of the BB rounds when dropped into the LW barrel barely make it halfway before sticking. The action of the slide would probably force them in, and the extractor will probably pull them out, but since the Glock will fire when out of battery, and considering the problem I had, I'm giving up on this barrel. My Glock has the factory recoil spring, but I think I will replace it with a 22# spring and a stainless or tungsten rod.

One of the reasons I do not like Glocks~

Buy a Tangfoglio and be done with it.

Here is my 15 Shot 10mm Tang.

Well there goes my plan to get a G20.

It started like this... buy a G20. Wait and get an aftermarket barrel to shoot heavy handloaded hardcast bullets. Until then, shoot heavy jacketed handloads in factory barrel. Wait... smileys come with a factory barrel and heavy loads.

Ok, shoot warm, not-so-heavy loads with factory barrel and get aftermarket barrel. Aftermarket barrel should take care of smileys, but might not feed as well. Wait, feeding could definitely be compromised and smileys still exist. WTF? Brass only good for 1, maybe 2 loadings?

Now what?

Sounds like I'm right back to where I started... heavy .357 loads in a revolver. Or back to .429, or .452 in a revolver.

Or a Tang, like Fotis has. Weren't there issues with these or was it the EAA Witness?

Or a RIA 10mm but now it weighs as much as a big-bore 6-shot revolver (S&W 629).

10mm's will do that to you...



FWIW the 5" 610 S&W shown, gives higher velocity than any of those three 1911's...

The only issues with the Tang was a brain fart they had to produce the polymer series which sometimes cracked the slide.

This model is all steel balls to the walls tough.

It's certainly a lot prettier than a Glock.

How does it feed and group for you?

That is a VERY nice looking pistol!

Nice! But do they make that baby in blued?
I'd be all over it!

I have fed it eveything from cast to HP's to flat FMJ,s.
Never a FTF or a FTE.
Here is a 15 meter target, 15 shots (a full clip) rapid fire at a clown zombie...

I was purusing Gunbroker over the weekend, and they do!

Good shooting.

Which model is yours? I didn't see any with your sight set up.

Mine is like this



http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=7&f=88&t=801359

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=344047474#PIC