Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns 10mm Glock Problem

Picked up my 10mm G20 last week, had a limited supply of ammo to try. Shot some 175gr PMC JHP, and they fed perfect, shot good. I intended to use this pistol for hog hunting, so I had ordered some Double Tap and Buffalo Bore Hard Cast AMMO, with 230gr and 220gr bullets, respectively. On the first shoot, would not feed the Double Taps, managed to fire 3 out of 6. Next trip I wanted to try the BB, because by working the slide by hand and feeding them that way I had fewer jams than with the DT. First round jammed as I was working the slide to load. Cleared the jam, got it to chamber, fired three rounds. On the third shot, my hands took a beating, got more smoke than seemed normal. The pistol was jammed, can't clear it, magazine is cracked up top, and the plug on the grip on the back side of the magazine release came out in pieces - that's what stung my right hand. This was with a Lone Wolf 6" SS barrel, supplied and fitted by The Glock Store.

Trying to find a Glock Armorer to take it to before sending it back to Glock (so I can be there at the initial evaluation) before sending it back to Glock. One of them on a forum - who lives much too far from me - is of the opinion that possibly when it jammed it pushed the lead bullet back, causing an overpressure, or that the BB round was just too "hot" for the only partly supported Glock barrel. Other posters on that forum seemed to hint that other guns have been "killed" by BB ammo.

I can't get the slide back to clear the action, or forward enough to get the slide to release to be removed, and I'd really lie to see what's inside. I can see part of a case, but don't know if it is a jammed live round or an empty.

Anyone else had problems with BB ammo, or 10mm Glocks?

Take a rubber mallet to it. Just joking. I am bored today.

What recoil spring are you running? It takes 22-24# to make my 20 work the big heavy hot stuff reliably. How does your fired brass look?

Sorry for the problems you had.

I've never used either. I've been tempted to try them several times but looking at DT's claimed velocity has scared me off. I know what the cases/primers look like using top of chart loads in the 10, and I have been hesitant to try these manufacturers who say they get another 100-150 or more fps.

I've also wanted to slug my barrel before trying hot hardcast, but I went ahead and bought some of the smallest diameter 40's from Bear Tooth, loaed them up, and they worked pretty good. I was pleased how well they cycled. Not one failure to feed or fire. The primers looked better than a lot of the jacketed bullets.

If you had issues with feeding, it could be the bullet was too large of a diameter. Bear tooth makes 3 diameter sizes of 40/10mm's.

Regarding the lock up, I think you got a load that was just too hot for your gun. Sorry for the Captain Obvious comment.

Thanks for the comments guys. The rubber mallet didn't work - that was my first response! The recoil spring is whatever Glock put in it. I just talked to a gun shop owner who says he is "sort of" a Glock Armorer. He says you aren't supposed to shoot lead bullets out of a Glock barrel, that he can show me that in the manual. MY manual says they RECOMMEND against using lead - not that they'll void your warranty or kick your butt if you do use lead.

Gonna take it in tomorrow, let a couple of guys look at it before I box it up and send it back to Glock. Really like the pistol, not sure I'll be able to shoot it without flinching for a while, even if I get it fixed. Shot two magazines through my 1911 afterwards, to make sure I could shoot without a flinch, at least with that one. Of course, it's a metal gun!

No need for the big heavies in a 10mm for piggies. I shot a good sized boar in TN with handloads consisting of a Gold Dot 180 at max velocity pushed my AA#9 and the bullet blew through the chest of that hog and scattered bark and tree parts from the tree behind it as though it had been smacked hard with a fast running chain saw. I administered the coup de grace on another hog with a Gold Dot to the forehead and it removed every bit of brain matter in its cranium and lodged deep in the neck of the hog. I would predict that you will have quicker, cleaner kills with the Gold Dots or similar.

Another possible problem is that Glocks are notorious for not liking lead bullets. The unique rifleing they use strips lead from the bullet and makes the whole works quite sticky and dangerous. Get a good smith to clear your gun, then sell the rest of your unjacketed lead bullet ammo. I would possibly be interested in it as I have a 10mm pistol that is set up to eat heavy 10mm loads with a ramped, fitted barrel and a heavy spring plus other modifications for original spec 10mm ammo.

MARK

The lead bullets have nothing to do with your problem , Glock say this because they supposedly won't stabilize with the polygon rifling Glock uses in their factory barrels. You need to run a 24 lb spring with the hot loads you are using . The Wolf barrel does't completely support the bottom of the case , even tho it is better than the factory barrel . You have a stuck case or more than likely a separated case stuck in the chamber and may have to shear the extractor to get the slide to retract. Try seeing if you can get the slide to come off by pushing forward after pulling down on both sides of the take down levers, other wise you may have to place a wooden dowel down the barrel and hit it hard enough to knock out the case or shear the extractor.

Texas99 watch this video.... http://youtu.be/Mj8Qt8ofCAw

I forgot to tell you the factory Glock 20 comes with a 18 lb Spring .

It sound like the source of your problem is the LW barrel. They have a reputation of having short and tight chambers that sometimes don't work well with heavy hardcast bullets. My guess is a bullet set back in the case from being jammed into the short chamber and that resulted in an overpressure load. The case ruptured and seized up the gun. You will need a gunsmith look over the gun to make sure it is still safe to shoot or send it back to Glock.

After you get it fixed, return that barrel and try some other brand.

All Glocks come with #17 pound springs.

You didn't shoot them out of a Glock barrel. You should be good regarding lead bullets.

Good to know. I've been thinking about swapping out my Storm Lake barrel for a Bar Sto. Looking for more accuracy. Is anyone aware of issues with Bar Sto?

If one is insisting on firewalling the 10mm, I'd stick to either the S&W or Ruger revolvers, or a 1911 with fully supported barrel (like a Kimber).

I chrono'd some DT 150gr loads a couple weeks ago, and they met every bit of the claimed velocity, out of the S&W 610, and the Kimber. They bulged case heads in the Colts

Off the top of my head this makes three blown G20's at the Campfire, plus another three blown Delta's. So far the score is tied.

my mistake they are 17 instead of 18

one of the things that might be a good idea if using any specialty ammo or what i do for handloads for that matter, is with the barrel removed see how the round chambers and if it lines up properly.

If I manage to blow a Smith 610, ya'll drink a toast in my honor

I've seen two different Marlin .45-70's locked up with Buffalo Bore ammo that was marked for use in such rifles. BB is not a member of the SAAMI.
The 10mm is a round that can go critical easily. Alot of the original loading data for it has been revised downward. Accurate Arms, for instance, no longer lists any loads for their AA#2 powder. I got bulged cases with starting loads with it.
The other thing, already pointed out by Safariman, is that it's a pretty potent round w/o going to such ammo. My 1200 fps. loads using the Hornady 180 gr. XTP penetrate just as much as do my 1200 fps. loads in my .44 Magnum using the 240 gr. XTP. Using Double Tap's 200 gr., wide flat point, cast bullet at about 1100 fps., it will penetrate over 50% more than the above loads. E

Cabelas in Buda had several boxes of Buff Bore "Heavy 10mm" 220gr hard cast @ 1200fps. I was tempted but finally talked myself out of it, at least for now. I'd probably try it only in a revolver, then maybe the Kimber, with a stronger recoil spring.