Gents - I've got a m77 with a black, synthetic stock that I had cerakoted in OD green (barreled action, trigger guard, bottom metal). I'd like to add a little green and brown using a sponge to the stock to break it up a little, but I was planning to just use the black plastic as the base. I've read all about prep, rotating the sponge, etc.

Two questions:

1. Is this a bad idea?

2. How necessary is a clear coat afterward? (I've got Krylon paint.)

Thanks!

P.s. would love to see pics of DIY paint jobs if anyone is willing to share.

This was a 40 year old neglected Rem 700 7mm-08. Started with a the green base. Added sponge spots and 3 coats of satin clearcoat.

How durable would the pattern be minus the clear coats do you think?

I've stopped using clear coat on stock paint jobs. Done 5 without it, I think. It is still very durable. It might scratch a little easier, but on a camo paint job who cares? Takes way less time. Plus touch ups would be much easier without clear coat, but honestly I've yet to do one. It is more of a flat non-reflective finish without clear coat, which I prefer. It is a win-win. Just prep the stock well with some mild solvent to remove oil and dirt for good paint adhesion.

No base coat, no clear coat.



Base coat tan, coat of textured " desert sand (?)" paint, black webbing and clear coat.

Thanks, Drew. Have you noticed that the top 2 wear much faster without the clear coat?

I have not done one without clearcoat so I can't speak on this.

I've done numerous with spray paint and Duracoat and never used a clear coat. Several members here have some of my work and haven't gotten a complaint yet.

Is camo on a stock/DIY job a bad idea, not in my book. Make it what you want. If you decide it isn't what you want brake cleaner will take the paint off, some have used acetone without issue on polymer stocks. If you have a sand blaster that works too and, depending on media and pressure, won't damage the stock either. John_boy on here has done probably hundreds with krylon and would a great one to ask for input.

Thanks, storm. I'm gonna give it a shot with Krylon and no clear coat. Will post results.

A clear coat, be it a single or two part coating will always be tougher and most likely more chemical resistant than a color. Main reason for a top coat.

Yes, clear coat does make it more durable. To me though, for a camo paint job, on a rifle that gets used a lot, it isn't necessary. Like I said, I prefer not to use it. I have three uncoated painted rifles (the two tikkas and a ruger american 22lr) that get used a lot both hunting and shooting. Also, have a turkey shotgun that I did the whole gun and just sprayed on uneven stripes. To me, they look/function as well as when I first painted them 2-3 years ago. If you look close they do have little scuffs and scratches in the paint, but the camo pattern is irregular anyway.

All depends on what you want. Also, I think any painting reduces resale value, so I wouldn't do it to a gun I wasn't sure I was going to keep or that was especially valuable.

I have had no issues at all with gun cleaning lubricants and solvents... but I don't clean guns much, plenty of lubrication though.

I used matte clear on my cheapy Savage 93. It was my first attempt and turned out OK, but I learned a few things. More 'open' sponges give a pattern I like better (the dark brown below vs. the black), etc. Started with a black stock and used a tan camo base.

If talking rattle cans.... When sweat or other chemicals (solvents) interacts with a clearcoat, you get clear goo, color you get colored goo. Clearcoat also serve as a final blending, evaning, and smoothly role that may or may not be desired on both 1k and 2k finishes. All depends on what a guy's after. Wouldn't skip it to save six bucks and 10 minutes personally unless it interfered with a desired outcome more important than durability.

Nice job there sock.

Matte clear adds a bit of shine, but isn't too shiny.
My rifle has a few coats and is several yrs old and looks newly painted.

If you want absolute dull/ flat.......no matte clearcoat.

I did a rifle yrs ago and it chipped here and there. Actually looked cool. Hell no I wasnt gonna touch it up. More effort than worth.

But if youre OCD and want it to hold up, yeah.....clearcoat

Sponge painted and clearcoated

Hook - which coat did you use? I've read that Krylon sometimes never dries. Duracoat is out (not dropping $50 on a spray can). The simple, $5 Rustoleum clear matte seems like a winner?

Rustoleum 2X matte clear is all you need. Let your base dry per directions. You don't want to put clear over it too wet or the escaping solvent from the colors will bubble up ruining the whole thing. BTDT, more than once. LOL Even just super light coats of clear will help. .

These one of a kind paint jobs can only be done by a skilled professional.

Taking orders, now!

😜😎🤦🏾‍♀️


This one has been called “Fruit Cake Puke”



This one “Cat Scratch Fever”

Experimental phase. LOL

Here's Whathephucqkaflauge1


And Whathephucqkaflauge2


Raspberry Beret


721


BloodF'ingOrange


And Dexter

Experimental phase continued.... LOL

HiVis


Shateeka


TropicalDelight


Hank'sSavage


4-pack


Flectone3fer

If I wrote more in this post, I'd just be say'n what already been said here. I used to use Duracoat, but don;t any more. It's too messy, expensive and hard to remove if you want to get it off. Krylon Camo holds up well and can be stripped off if so desired. I think a sponge camo job is the easiest camo to do. It's hard to screw it up. If the stock is already black, no base coat. I use satin clear, but not really necessary, I may stop using it. RJ

I like a lighter color for the base and darker colors for the shadows. Of course, it depends on what you are going for but this type of camo pattern blends in well around here.

[quote=Beaver10]These one of a kind paint jobs can only be done by a skilled professional.

Taking orders, now!

😜😎🤦🏾‍♀️


This one has been called “Fruit Cake Puke”



This one “Cat Scratch Fever

I'm sure your phone is ringing off the hook, after that one

BS would pay top dollar for this if you could find matching fruit cake puke electrical tape. 😂😇

Man, you fellas do some sexy work...even the fruit cake.

Fresh paint. Switched barrels back to 308

A bit of shine from even a matte clear can be knocked down using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser.

Just buff it (says Kavanagh).

Cell phone camera flash

How long do you like to wait before coating? Is 24 hours long enough to let paint dry/gas off?

Like!
Laffin ...

I use a blow dryer o high heat to dry it really good

MtnBoomer those "flectones"look great! How did you get the even speckles? Flicked on with a brush or something?

I let everything dry for about 24hrs before putting on another coat, and thats in warm temps (75+) with low humidity

Usually the can or spec sheet will indicate a re-coat time frame. Something like a couple hour is plenty good. Just don't try to put a bunch of layers on immediately following each other, especially if cooler. Most products have a range of time that's ideal, not just the minimum, because the stuff adheres better to each other when not fully cured.




Thanks. Wood stocks that needed lots of prep.

Spray guns and air brushes.

HiVis and Dexter were flicked.

Yours look great. Real flat.

I swear, I’m absolutely the worst stock painter that held a spray can.

I tried to sell these new stocks on a forum as painted...Nobody wanted either one.

I hung them both up on a wire, flat coated them in black.

They both sold in a week.

😎

I use Brownells Matte Clear Aluma-Hyde II epoxy as an overcoat. Tough as nails.

I’ve used other clear coats and they’re no where near as durable. I’ve gone without any overcoat and the stuff chips with a stern look.

My experience is one can go without an overcoat if they don’t mind repainting or having numerous chips.

I grabbed some Rustoleum 2x matte clear but per the can, I missed the inside 48 hr window, so am waiting to coat.

The stinky smelling " Painters Touch". Stuff gives me a migraine. I spray outside and hang in garage to dry.
Even the ol lady says its horrible

If you screw it up Acetone and a bunch of paper towels will remove the paint/ clear from a plastic stock. Remington and TC Contender stocks unaffected

My God... some of these are almost as good as Big_Sticks paint jobs...