I'm curious about the actual engineering behind Savage actions that makes them hated and loved. For example, I saw a discussion on here where people talked about whether they'd trust a Savage rifle on a big hunt. What is it specifically about a Savage that makes people question whether they'd work? Are there some weaknesses inherent to the design? I've read a lot of discussions on here about Savages and I know lots of people use them and like them, but I guess I'd like to know more about the technical reasons why people don't.

I have found that the extractors can wear rather quickly. I've had two act up on me, one in a .223 and one in a .22-250. The one in the .22-250 can be blamed on me, I rebarreled the rifle and used the brass that had been fired in the old barrel. It was hard to chamber, so I forced it in, then had to force it out. The extractor didn't work too good afterwards.

I don't know why the .223 acted up, it just wore out early, I guess. Both rifles would pull the brass partially clear and as soon as the case mouth cleared the chamber, the extractor would lose grip and the empty would just sit there on top of the loaded round which obviously was not going to feed into the chamber.

I think they cost 3 dollars and some change, and took about 4.72 seconds to change...

Tag

Bingo. I love them for their accuracy, but a lot of the savage bolt actions ive had, had weak extraction and ejection. They are extremely easy to change though. I have a buddy that only uses savage bolt actions for hunting. He has never had an issue with his. If you are extremely particular about things (like i am), it may really bother you if you have a case dribble out of the receiver upon extraction, or better yer, not even make it to the ground, but lay on top of the other cartridges as the bolt is pulled back. My 12 FV creedmoor did this when i got it, but a quick email to savage and a new extractor and ejector kit was coming my way. They are some of the easiest people to deal with.

So is there a permanent fix/upgrade that can be done to help with extraction/ejection? Or is it just a matter of keeping spares on hand for when/if things fail?

I noticed the extraction ejection issues as well.
It would pull the case almost out of the chamber and leave it there or lay the case on top of the next cartridge.
I got my daughter an axis youth straight out of the box with those issues.

Would be a good idea to have a extraction kit on hand just in case you need it.
It's a couple bucks and pretty easy to fix.

To me, savage bolt is not as smooth as others. And to figure out the action/stock compatibility is some work

The only complaint I had about Savage is just one.

Many years ago I bought a Savage police/tactical model in 25-06 (I wish I still had it). There was something wrong with the trigger. After some time and a few boxes of shells, the trigger lightened up on its own. It became Dangerously light one day While we were out shooting PD’s. It fired while I closed the bolt.

It was a good thing that one of the guys I was with was a gunsmith, he fixed it right there. Yeah those guys were getting piss’d at me, they thought I was exhibiting poor weapon handling.

The biggest problem with the Savage rifles (10/110 and variants) is cosmetic.

Never had an extraction problem with my 110E in .22-250 and it had a round count of 3500-4000 when the barrel went TU and I sold it to a guy that wanted the action.

Just speaking for my personal experience but I have probably owned 20+ Savage rifles, and been around or shot at least that many more. To this date I have only had problems with Cooper, Fieldcraft, and Remington extraction, had one Savage Axis 243 that I improved extraction with a slightly larger ball bearing under the extractor spring but it was okay before upgrade. I personally usually grab a Savage when going to the woods but I just deer hunt in the South East United States.

HeavyBarrel

I have 3 bolt Savages. They ain’t the most beautiful thing, but they are a fine rifle for the price. No issues with mine so far.

I agree, the last attractive Savage bolt action was the 1920.

I don't understand why Savage never tried to improve the aesthetic quality of the action and left it to Marlin to copy the best functional aspects of the 110 series and improve the aesthetics to such a degree that the X guns were, IMO, the pinnacle of 110 series evolution.

I'm not sure that I'd want to use a Savage 110 series rifle while hunting dangerous game, but for anything less they are probably as reliable as any other properly maintained bolt action sporting rifle.

agree ... i asked them on the social media what their current equivalent of the 1920 is. they said “nothing.”

that being said, ive developed an affinity for my blued/walnut lightweight hunter. nice little rifle to carry and shoot. but of course that version has been discontinued ...

Is it the extraction/ejection issue that would make you not want it for dangerous game? (I'm not looking for a dangerous game rifle, I'm just wondering)

I bought four different Savage Precision Target Actions, all barreled with various high-end custom interchangeable varmint barrels. Never had one fail in any way while hunting. The extractors work flawlessly, but I have spares on hand, along with the springs, and a bag of 100 1/8" ball bearings (from a bearing supply house) to replace the detent ball just in case. With a bit of practice I can now change the extractor in seconds with nothing more than my thumb. The target AccuTrigger can only be adjusted down so much before it fails to setup, but once set properly it works without a hitch, mine are set just around 1.5 pounds. The entire action can be dismantled with a set of Allan wrenches and a screwdriver, and one can reset firing pin protrusion without any machining - I reset mine to 0.040" above the bolt face. Then the bolt handle is robust, and won't break off because a braze let go, even if it looks clunky. I have a set of bolt heads that can be swapped in and out to change cartridge families, including the magnums that also require swapping out the firing pin assembly. That floating bolt head allows for full contact with the receiver lugs, no bolt sleeving or lapping needed, and the cocking piece travels down the right side of the action, so the bolt lugs remain in contact with both receiver lugs under spring tension when cocked. In short, these Savage based rifles are accurate, nearly indestructible, and work. I believe they are a good value, even the factory rimfire .17 HMR I have shoots great for ground squirrels,

Finished rifle may not be a thing of beauty, but has the practicality of a boxcar.



Below is a sight-in target from a .243 Winchester Super Short Magnum Brux prefit barrel, threaded and chambered by Sharp Shooter Supply, I installed myself, there are three scope adjustments left and up involved. The tightest group fired by this barrel measured .186 for 10 shots at 100 yards. It vaporized sage rats out to 330 yards easily. Every one of these homemade rifles from .204 Ruger, .223 Remington and up to 6mm PPC and 6mm BR Norma, all shoot at least .25" with barrels from Brux, Shilen, Krieger and Pac-Nor especially Pac-Nor's polygonal rifled barrels.

Savage's extractor and ejector are constructed the same way as many push-feed modern bolt action rifles. Ejector problems arise if the spring and ejector pin bore become gunked up with dirt and and sludge from too much lubrication or rust. Keep everything clean and there isn't much to go wrong, same as any rifle. Indeed, when I buy a bare bolt head the extractor and ejector need to be installed. All that is needed is a simple extractor jig made from a block of wood, carved out with a Dremel Tool and a wood file. Below we see a simple homemade jig. One always replaces the ejector retaining pin with a new one when installing a new spring and ejector pin (available from Brownell's).



Using a 1/16" punch, the existing ejector retaining pin is driven out, the ejector and spring removed and the bore cleaned. The new parts installed and a empty case with a clamp is used to compress the spring (here a .45 ACP case is used on a standard .473" cartridge bolt head), the same set up can be used to uninstall the original pin so parts don't launch. A 1/16" punch is run through the retaining pin hole, ensuring alignment, and a new splined retaining pin started from the recessed hole side and driven flush with a punch that fits the recess, which drives out the 1/16" punch. Done for a few bucks, and no trip to the gunsmith necessary, not that I have anything against gunsmiths, it's just that they are so busy. This a handy technique for replacing the ejector spring with a lighter one, or completely eliminating the ejector as some benchrest shooters do so the case is not cocked to one side in the chamber, or damaged during extraction and ejection.



Again, I have never experienced any extractor or ejection problems with these actions, but having the means to quickly repair or modify them is a good idea.

Good post WranglerJohn,

I have built numerous rifles on Savage actions. My biggest problem is hanging onto them.... when my shooting buddies see how great they shoot they make me offers I can't refuse....

Crazy accurate at modest prices, whats not to love?

i own a bunch of Savage rifles maybe 20-25 not sure how many but i gotta say dang they all sure shoot well easy even my old 99`s. i do wish Savage would bring back the 99 again with some real nice wood and blued good even some nice bolt actions done nicely in some different cartridges from the past . i have had some buddies spend big money on some expensive rifles and still my factory Savages shoot as well if not better than those expensive rifles.

Yes, that is exactly why I wouldn't want to use one for dangerous game.

I wonder if Mossberg Patriots in 375 Ruger are selling well in those parts of Alaska where people live side by side with big bears?

Yes. There are aftermarket, machined steel extractor kits that come with extra stength extractor and ejector springs. Personsally I've had no issues with the factory extractors and I've lost track of how many Savage 110/11 variants I've owned over the years or how many thousands of rounds I've run through them. I have replaced extractor and ejector springs with stronger aftermarket springs on a couple as well as installed oversized extractor ball bearings to give more positive extraction/ejection. My current Savage .223 has about 2500 rds. on it with no issues and still has factory original parts.

I was just about to ask about those extractor kits. It's wild that Savage continues to put out a product with a known issue and what seems like a simple fix (if the kits really do fix things), but I guess the out-of-the-box Savages work well enough for most people.

I am thinking about a very simple 7mm-08 or 6.5 creedmoor build and was planning on using a Remington 700 action, but Savage actions are much easier to come by cheap - even in stainless steel, which I would prefer. I know of some knowledgeable people who don't hold Savages (Salvages) in high regard, but I wanted to understand why that is.

When a Savage bolt handle is actuated I keep expecting to hear flushing noises.

Savages have no snob appeal....

There are many choices in aftermarket bolt handles if the factory handles offend your delicate tastes.

Nope, but they often outshoot the ones that do.

I get it, some people think they are trash and some people think they're underrated. A lot of people haven't had any issues. I'm not really wanting to start a fight.

We've talked about extraction and ejection. Are there any other mechanical issues with them or other disadvantages?

Not the action, but rough barrels seem common in Savages.

I'd have to agree with that in general, though not all are rough. My current .223 for instance is quite smooth and fouls very little. It's also one of, if not my most accurate rifle at the moment and I have a couple Tikka's and Weatherby/Howa's that are very accurate.

I/we've never had any issues with our Savages.

All are accurate & easy to maintain.

People say Savages are ugly, but I've seen enough butt phoucc ugly "customs" that I'm happy with what we have.

I love the accutriggers, set at about 2.5lbs, they are clean & crisp.

We are hunters, not volume shooters however.

Other than the LWH, I’ve not owned or shot one that I liked enough to get past the toilet plunger bolt shroud and hatchet made stock wrist. There’s cheaper stuff that shoots at least as accurate, looks far better, and are easier to keep a barrel clean. Then again, I’m probably just a jackass, since I think finding a ‘99 ‘pretty’, is like a dating a chick with a mustache.

Aesthetics aside, like Mossberg pumps, Glocks, Tokerevs, etc. Savage's "disadvantage" is perception.
How can a better rifle be cheaper? Design.

When I check the Savage firearms website I see they have several variations of bolt actions available for sale, but I seldom see any of them for sale new or used. The common calibers that I see used are 270, 30-06, 7RM etc. The short actions like 223 and 22-250 get bought up pretty fast in my area.

HH4, I really don't mind the looks of the 110, earlier ones were really cheap looking but they've gotten better. Some of the newer stuff is giving the 110-based rifles a run for the money in regards to accuracy.

I seem to replace the barrel on every rifle I get right away, anyway, though I sometimes wonder if I'm just wasting money.

I totally agree about the 99 looking good (not), but it's all in what one likes.

I'm really just wondering about the 110 action. I don't care much about aesthetics, but I don't blame people for wanting a rifle that looks nice to them.

They are often available cheap used, but when new they are no cheaper than a Remington 700 or Howa/Vanguard. I saw a used stainless Savage rifle the other day that was $330, but it was in rough shape. I have a hard time believing that the hate can just be because people think that cheap equals junk.

I’m not saying they’re ‘junk’, and only some of them fall into ‘cheap’ these days. The LWH I had was seemingly better built than most Remington 7s I’ve ever had. Kinda wish I’d have kept that one.

I'd pick Savage over Remington 700 in a heartbeat.

Just shoot them and they will clean up. I don't care what it looks like on the inside, as long as it shoots good. Some guys have a hard time dealing with chit like this...


That's from a $319.00 rifle with a "rough" bore...

Like an ok looking chic trying to please. Cheap fun.

I had one that developed weak extraction of one brand of handloaded brass. New extractor from Sharp Shooter Supply took minutes to install even for this numbskull. No problems hundreds of rounds later. Can't remember the last time I cleaned the barrel beyond a run with the boresnake.

As a lefty, I'm a Savage fan.

Truth. But always makes a guy want to look at the high maintenance blonde that will fail you. A mail weakness.

Most people are idiots with no ability to judge the quality of anything. Doesn't matter whether it's guns or truck tires or fishing reels. Brand, looks and what you paid for it means everything.

Does Savage sell the Accu-Triggers to replace the pre A/T models.

I used Savage rifles/actions for 25+ years....bought my first one on a dare.....

FP 223 police rifle...20" bbl......tupperware stock...pre Accue trigger..matte steel......

The rough barrel is there yes.......simple......screw a spec ordered Pac Nor on it

30 minutes later....you're done (after an 8 week wait for barrel)

Extractors ? yep....had my issues with too hot of loads...260 AI...6XC...(scarce data back then)

Keep spares...springs & ball bearings too.....they updated with newer metal a few yrs back.....

Mine were/are mostly p/dog set ups & calibers....killin' machines......target...one of my most accurate

factory barrels...came on an 'M' series solid bottom s/shot 24" SS heavy...just a good one I guess

pic 2.....the "Laser' 20-222 ...Target action & 9 twist Pac Nor tube...18#....dogs die fast.........

Some would say "lipstick on a pig" I say accuracy matters.....

Viewer discretion advised..........




And yes the gongs are on the other side of that canyon...

I find that I currently have 8 Savage 110 series rifles on the books:

2 x 22-250
1 x 257 Roberts
3 x 260
1 x 6.5 Creedmoor
1 x 30-06

2 have after-market barrels, a 22-250 and a 260.

1 has an after-market stock, a 260.

All are reasonably accurate and fully functional, but other than the 260 with a Shilen barrel and McM stock, none of the rest have left the house in recent memory.

Yep. Nothing wrong with trying a few... Had this back in 2010 (in N Portland of all places, was good to find the 'Fire and get back to some roots.) and just couldn't love it for want of trying others. EZ come EZ go. Not exactly smooth bolts is their main weakness IMO.

They are ugly enough to haunt a house but other than that I think they are well designed and work fine. Just not my jam. Practicality is over rated. I’ll take a K98 or it’s offspring...but I’m living in the past admittedly

I'll admit my 110 isn't the best looking bolt gun out there but it shoots and hasn't given me one problem in the almost 40 years I've owned it ( I bought it used).
I've been thinking about buying a Tekka just to hang up next to it. The old beat up 110 will look sweet hanging next to that ugly turd.