Folks:

I have an assortment of gun oils picked up over the years, and the remnants of an old flannel shirt that contains every combination of those oils you can think of. But I'm curious: What's your favorite oil for a simple wipe-down after a hunt?

Thanks

RM

Hello Rev! I really like Outers Tri-Lube. It gets into the "pores" (if you would) and creates a very water resistant film. I like to really spray a rifle down (or wipe it down) very wet then allow to room temp dry. You can hunt in the snow/sleet/drizzle/downpour and have zero to only a tiny bit of rust show up after! I really Love EezOx for the bore ( seasons it like a cast iron skillet ha) and it will work swell on the outside but the smell is very loud. Maybe, just maybe a sharp old doe may wind you. God bless! Rev Jim Knight

any good gun oil to wipe them down is good even WD40 but for me i only use Wipe-Out to keep the bore of my rifles clean ,when i finally do clean the bore. sometimes people clean their rifle bore to much.

Corrosion X the stuff is awesome. Bonds to the molecules and is very slick and smooth. For me it falls into the same usefulness category as vinegar, baking soda, wire coat hangers and duct tape. Does everything that PB blaster, WD40, RemOil, ATF and others do. Better.

Clenzoil or Ballistol is what I use on the exterior. WD40 is not a good idea

Break-Free CLP

+1

Mobil synthetic 0 to -30, inside and out

Ed's Red is my favorite-- well, it's actually half of the Ed's Red recipe: 50% Kerosene/50% ATF . If it's going into long-term storage, I add a squirt of EeZox.

For rust prevention RIG Universal Gun Grease. Old but it still works just fine. It's sulfonated petrolatum so by its nature it clings to steel. Take a bit of one of those old flannel shirts, rub in RIG, stash it in a 35mm film can if you still have one of those, and you're good to go - anywhere. A very thin film from a quick wipe is all you need. Not so good as a lubricant though.

Ditto, and also Kroil

For general wipedown, i use ballistol, or clenzoil, because used in moderation i don’t worry about it affecting wood.

Why use MObil 1 for a purpose it was not designed for?


Lucas gun oil

Amsoil

Because you never have to worry about it getting gummy in cold weather and your action won't freeze up. It wets better than covential gun oils.PLUS $8 gets you a life time supply.

I agree. Been using the mobil one 0 weight stuff for 20 years. Works fantastic and a quart goes a long ways. I bought a couple of the super fine applicator bottles and have been happy.

I don't think it's going to freeze either and i am sure it works perfectly well in the real low viscosity grades. The qualities it has lend itself to better use in an engine that will have longer engine oil change intervals.

G-96

But I have been experimenting with Ballistol.
Both have been good, both are hard to find in a store.

Ballistol is tough to find. I really like Clennzoil better but both are good for doing a walnut/blue gun especially since they won't hurt wood or metal.

I agree. Been using the mobil one 0 weight stuff for 20 years. Works fantastic and a quart goes a long ways. I bought a couple of the super fine applicator bottles and have been happy.[/quote]

I use a Dristan nose spray bottle or the equivalent.Drill out the center hole in the cap a bit and put a piece of the red tubing like comes on a WD 40 can in it.Works like a charm.I also do the same for applying cutting oil when using the drill pres when cutting metal

yep, Mobil 1

I have 5 gallons of Ed’s mixed up. I also use EEZOX. Another favor is Birchwood Casey’s Barricade. Hasbeen

Remember these?

Is that throttle linkage oil? I do remember those things.

Hoppes #9 for me...

3in1 or ATF .... or Ballistol when it's available

Mobil 1

Corrosion X was recommended to me by my Alaskan guide for upcoming moose hunt.

Mobil 1.

Shell Rotella 15/40. Always have a dipstick full.

Mineral

Whatever is on sale.

I confess to being a bit of a gun chemical junkie. Always checking on the latest and greatest. For about three years I have been using Corrosion X with good results. Prior to that it was Tetra Gun Oil and MPRO 7. I use Ballistol on my blue steel and walnut rifles, they have nice wood and good blue finishes and Ballistol seems to agree with them. They look purdy after a good rub down with Ballistol, my leather slings do to. Maybe I should try it in my hair...

I see no reason why Mobil and Ed's Red would not work well. Few years ago when I got my first bottle of MPRO 7 oil, I lathered up my LARue PredaTar BCG and innards with it and left it out side in -25 degree weather for 24 hours. I picked it up, stuffed a mag in it and popped off three rounds into the old birch stump. Rifle seemed to run ok in that mini test. So if I was doing a winter caribou or moose hunt I would use it on my bolt action trifles innards
.

I got to using Tri-Flow back when I was a kid when we shot a lot of barn pigeons with 1100 Remington's during the winter. It was made for the military mini-guns and always worked well in cold weather. I like Rig because it doesn't have an odor unlike many of the others I've tried. Very early I used WD-40 and after the carrier evaporated, it turned gummy and stopped my semi-auto from feeding. My gunsmith told me that WD-40 is what kept him in business cleaning out peoples firearms. 3 in 1 oil has saved a lot of deer in cold weather from a bang to a dull click of the firing pin. My friend Bob included. I shoot my stainless synthetic bolt action nearly dry for cold weather hunting.

If I'm cleaning I use Ed's Red but just oiling Mobil 1. I use 0W20. It's just what's by the cleaning bench. Be Well. Rusty

Some people have to learn the hard way, and some never do.

Had an experienced shooter swear that WD-40 was the greatest ever. Also claimed it was great spot remover. I told him I'd like to see his wife's reaction when he sprays it on upholstery.

What is a great spot remover for clothing, upholstery and such is Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber Synthetic Safe. It's saved my butt more than a few times.

Paul

I switch in the AR's. I use Mobil 1 bearing grease in the summer and Mobil 1 0w-20 in the winter.

My son did a semi scientific test years ago, for a high school project, evaluating oils in a controlled humidity rust bluing box. Boiled, degreased 10 penny nails for the test subject. Of course, I had to get involved, and included a few 4140, chrome moly, ordnance steel etc. barrel stubs from re barreling jobs. Used a lot of so-called gun oils, common engine and industrial oils and so on, I think about 30 oils in all. Very disappointing results, and you guys ain't gonna like this, but the top two performers were ATF and rendered sheep fat (used in machining some steels prone to tearing). My own firearms are coated lightly with sheep fat in the bore and out. Awesome performance with old soft steel black powder guns.

when i was at a deer camp when i was a kid "about age 14" and no one had any gun oil so the hunter just wiped it down with some cooking oil because his semi-auto was rusty and Dewanye thought his rifle might jam. next mourning he got a deer and that old Winchester 308 didn`t jam either,he said that 308 bullet was just a cookin out that barrel.

Breakfree CLP

Not a gun writer, but IMO, most of the high end firearms lubricants perform in a similar manner. You pay your money and you take your choice. I've also used Mobil 1 with good results. I use a Marine Tuff Cloth, Hornady spray or Boesheild for rust protection. No rust problems thus far.

That said, I recently had a lock on an outside door refuse to operate. I sprayed both Balistol and Safari Charlie into the lock; still negative function.

Finally called a locksmith who sprayed the interior with Tri Flow, a teflon based lubricant. The recalcitrant lock immediately began to work again. The locksmith said the teflon component was what made the difference.

I personally do not use teflon based lubricants on firearms as I read somewhere long ago that they get gummy when the carrier evaporates. Don't know if this is true, but FWIW, a teflon based lube did the trick on my door lock. The Tri Flow spray is relatively inexpensive. The service call was $80.

Lately I've been using Lucas Gun Oil for lubrication, after I read a very positive review by a guy who had kept careful records on maintenance of high usage range rental guns. I got it at NAPA auto parts, and it seems a bit cheaper, or at least less over priced than most gun juices where you pay for the hype.

Paul

There have been some very good rust prevention tests in the last couple of years.

Two products stood out, way beyond the other products, including my own personal favorite Eezox

#1 was Hornady one shot

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...eaner-with-dyna-glide-plus-10-oz-aerosol

#2 on a close tie was Frog Lube


I found the test hard to believe, so I bought some Hornady one shot. I sprayed down a Rossi single barrel 12ga and put it in my hay barn, with the barn open on the front and a door open on the side. I forgot about the gun for 6 months....no rust on the gun....very humid environment, I might say.

Here is a lengthy article on various lubes....get ready to get blown away at the results, as this guy did a world class job.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Sold at the local chemist as "anhydrous lanolin"...used by lactating mothers and works okay on wounds...don 't use it on leather as is is a wee big greasy.

Anhydrous lanolin...I'da never thunk it.
Oh, and I forgot to add, the sheep fat, which does have a slight gamey odor, brings a nice glow to old dry walnut stocks, my 150 year old Peabody carbine benefited greatly from judicious applications. Last time I got a Dixie catalog, they were still selling it for cheap.
I believe petroleum based oils and preservatives soften wood, cosmoline certainly does. I suspect Frog Oil mentioned above is an organic base oil, but I can live without the perfume they put in it to make the wifey happy.

Outers, because I have so much of it!

Keith, Thanks for the heads up. That guys not normal, in a good way. I only use Hornady one shot on my press. I'll fix that.

I have used Frog Lube a lot , anytime i buy a new gun it gets wiped down with this and reassembeled. I use ballistol or Clennzoil for cleaning the internals of the action and bolt whatever is handy. Wipeout or KG12 for the bore and clennzoil or ballistol on a patch following it up.

Lately I’ve been using Montana Extreme gun oil and gun grease. Works for me.....

Oils don't soften wood that is well sealed inside and out with a barrier type finish such as spar varnish, spar polyurethane or automotive clear coat. I've used nothing but ATF on my guns for 30 years and have no rust or oil soaked wood on any of them. A quart of the stuff lasts for decades and the proof is in the performance as they say, so I have no reason or intention to change. At work we use Mobil vactra oil #2 as a lubricant on the guns we build and it also works very well.

Storing long guns with muzzle down stops a lot of that

+2

2nd choice is Froglube.

As far as rust prevention, what about Fluid Film?

Ballistol And Hornady one shot.

Lanolin is not rendered sheep fat. Lanolin comes from the wool of sheep.

I buy lanolin on ebay in 1lb tubs. Good chit for lots of stuff and I use it on all of my leather. It's ok if a hair dryer is used to melt it into the leather.

G96

Tired and read that as "wool fat", I am an ex shearer and know very well what lanolin is.

Ballistol or Break Free for cleaning a bore of powder residue and wipe down. Never had a spot of rust on a gun wiped with Break Free, and over time in a bore it will work on copper a bit, as evidenced by the blue on a patch when removed. Ballistol won't harm wood or leather and is THE product for BP guns. It will, however, gum at very low temps.

Dri-Slide on the "works" like triggers, revolver innards, and inside bolts. Apply, let dry, then such stuff is lubed for a long time.

High-temp moly truck bearing grease for the contact surfaces of rifle bolts, falling blocks, pump guns, revolvers, etc. like Dri-Slide, it's messy stuff, but stays put, and is slip-per-y!

Tried various other products over the years, but these work and are always going to be around.

Got a soft spot for Rem Oil, not for guns, but years ago I used it, along with some clever tweaking, to whip serious ass in an AWANA pine block racer event at our church. Both my sons won their races, as did my wife with a car I'd put together as a spare for any child without one. Even the Pastor was pissed at us! One of my parenting high points.

Ah, I see. No offense meant.

I have met two guy that sell gun cleaning fluid. One builds and sells varmint rifles, the other builds and sells muzzle loaders.
Both were just decanting and repackaging a commercial product. The biz plan in both cases was "Buy quantity at $4 per quart and sell retail at $4 per 4 ounce container."

I am going to guess that the gun oil market is not much different.

But in the engine oil world, there is a forum with millions of posts:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

Reading that forum revealed how complicated lubrication can be.

The fault is mine old mate, pardon me as I am not currently at my best.

Been using whatever is around with a preference for Eesox for coating, Kroil for cleaning and Collectors for storage. These are still good if not the best. Boeshield and Corrosion X work well even if not ranked the highest.

Next will be Hornaday One Shot or Frog Lube.
For general use it will be Ed's Red with some Mobile 1 added. I have been using engine assembly grease with Moly for the bolt locking lugs and it really smoothed up the cycling. I even used it on a stainless barrel and it looks like titanium now and is non reflective.

For knives, tools and axes Camilla oil is the best and I think I will give it a try on my rifles as what odor it has is pleasant and may not alarm deer. This is what was used on Samari swords except they added clove oil to it. It is realtively inexpensive and is a sort of liquid wax like Jojoba oil is. Becomes dry to the touch if not used too heavily.

For triggers lighter fluid only will help avoid mishaps or misfires. Got this from the Jewell trigger recommendations. I may put the moly grease on the sear but then will wipe almost all of it off leaving just the moly. Better to not do this with Remington Walker triggers as it can cause them to slam fire if overdone.

For just a rust prevention wipe down, I really like Eezox. It isn't oily after it dries and is great for rust prevention. Look elsewhere for lube

Break Free most of the time. When hunting my blue rifles in heavy rain, I coat them with Johnson's Paste wax. Never had any exterior rust using the wax. Protects the stock also. I'm going try the lanolin, it sounds promising!

I don't believe it was that specific. I remember my father having a bunch of those things around when I was a kid, he would tell me a little bit of oil right where it is needed was plenty.

I remember my Dad having that on his workbench and using it on the throttle linkage.

Although not an "oil", Ballistol is a great product. No gumming like some petroleum products and no damage to wood.

I doesn't gum up with black powder, in fact some BP cowboy action shooters mix it with water to make their version of "pigeon milk".

It has a funky smell, but not that bad.

Sometimes not that easy to find, but a search on line will usually be successful. Amazon and EBay show it as available.

For over a hundred years, it's been doing its job. IIRC, the Germans developed it in the early 1900's.

It's also good for leather.

What's not to like...

DF

M-Pro 7 CLP. I think the new stuff is M-Pro 7 LPX

Ummm...yes it is.


I have a bottle sitting on the chest of drawers beside me and that is where it is going to stay, sealed.

Ballistol was the odor of a German soldier in WWI and WWII.

I rubbed some on my Luger.

It is actually the odour of his socks, the actual ones he was wearing.

Just ordered some Frog Lube paste and Liquid to try for wiping stuff down. That test posted above looked good.

Yeah, it is truly a memorable odor .EEsox and Clennzoil are downright pleasant as is Frog Lube

For anti-corrosion, Horaday's HD Extreme non-oil based. For lubrication, Ballistol or whatever I can get EXCEPT WD-40..

For sure, not good for guns, especially small moving parts like triggers.

I've had to disassemble triggers where people had generously used WD-40 over years. Even acetone won't cut it. You about gotta manually clean each individual part.

I hate that stuff for guns. Not bad on shovels, etc. Just keep it away from locks and guns..

DF

How about the good, not 50 state legal, red can CRC brake cleaner?

Haven't tried that one.

WD-40 "varnish" is pretty tough. If CRC brake cleaner will cut it, that would be great. But, I won't hold my breath.

DF

Manly odor...

DF

Tried most of those mentioned over the years, all seemed to do the job. Currently I'm using gun oil made by Butch's Bore Shine, bought it as a 2 for 1 promotion with their cleaner. Hunting guns get Johnson's past wax on blue & wood, for long term storage I use Birchwood Casey Sheath/Barricade.

You can use Ballistol as a drink if you have digestive issues as well. Thought I would put that out there

The mineral oil would have you headed for the john ASAP...

It should "work" you pretty well...

DF

You know what I've found cuts old WD-40 varnish? More WD-40. Sometimes you can let it soak and then blow off with compressed air, but sometimes scrubbing with a toothbrush is necessary. Then just clean it off afterwards.

Some things are dissolved better by light oils (like kerosene, mineral spirits, or WD40) than by rapidly evaporating solvents like brake cleaner or laquer thinner. Carbon fouling is another example of this.

I actually use WD-40 quite a bit for cleaning gun parts and it works pretty well for that, just don't use it as lube or leave it on wet long term.

Good to know. Use WD-40 to clean WD-40, then blow it out with air, replace with lighter fluid, etc.

Will try that. Sure sounds easier than disassembling small parts.

DF

I posted this back in 2011 (I think) in response to a similar post. Haven’t changed my mind:

The best gun oil made simply common automatic transmission fluid. Works over a wide temp. range and already has corrosion inhibitors in it and is a lubricant. You want a rust inhibitor, not gun oil. However, to answer your question, several years ago, my son did a science experiment in which we coated carbon steel razor blades (1095 carbon steel to be exact) with common gun oils and evaluated for rust. We used WD40, ATF, EEZOX, Breakfree, Balistol, RemOil, Ed's Red, and several of the common "gun oils". Each blade was coated on both sides using a cotton swab coated in the oil and placed in a small 16 well container with a lid containg a hole. 4 replicates per oil. We then buried the containers at the edge of a salt lake for maybe 2 months and then dug them up and evaluated for surface rust and pitting. The EEZOX and Breakfree were the only two products which looked near normal and everthing else failed miserably (heavy rust and/or pitting or totally gone from rust eating it away. Personally, I only use EEZOX or Breakfree to protect from rust and ATF as a lubricating oil.

Hoppe’s No. 9 or Ballistol

Lucas Oil.

Interesting.

DF

Did you and your son render the sheep fats? If so, do you mind describing what was done? I will be slaughtering a ram in Sept so I will have quite a bit of fat to render. I like the idea of making use of some of it for gun related stuff. Was the rendered fat treated with a subsequent hot water extraction?

edit to add:

Never mind. I see in a subsequent post, you purchased it from Dixie.

Good for "tight ones" everywhere, huh?

I seem to be the only one still using RIG for exterior protection. My welcome to old fart-hood I guess.

I have a can of RIG I bought in the late '60's. Still about 1/4 left and I do still use it. It doesn't take much. At that rate, maybe need another can in 20 yrs or so.

You ain't the only Old Fart around here...

DF

I tried the Hornady one shot and have been impressed.

Says it somewhere on the innanet so it must be true

There is current Breakfree and the previous version whose formula changed. That stuff was the real deal.

Why hasn’t anyone mentioned Dyna Tek gun shield? I mean their bore coat is the A1 sh*t, or it was a few months back on here. Same technology on the outside gots to be the A1 sh*t right. 😂

I've whored around with a lot of products, but always come crawling back to Break-Free CLP and LP.

At home base, I clean with MPro-7 and recoat and relube with Break-Free. Out in the field all cleaning, lubing and corrosion protection is done with Break-Free CLP.

I'm playing around with LPS 3 and recently bought a can of BoeShield for exterior rust protection. I haven't used the BoeShield yet, but the LPS 3 dries to a waxy film and does a good job remaining put on the parts that aren't handled such as the parts inside the stock. Bullfrog has a product that works pretty similar but also has a VpCI component to it. I really like the Bullfrog product, but reliably getting it to Aleutian Hell is a challenge. The exposed barrels and receivers do need wiped down occasionally since routine handling wears it off pretty easily.

There was a guy in Germany that used to medicate himself with that stuff. IIRC, Hitler was his name.

Just sayin'.🤔

DuPont chain lube with iso paraffin . It leaves a wax like layer of oil on the metal.

kwg

Mike, I've noticed that the "answers" have ranged far from your original question.

Here are my two answers:

1) I prefer to live and hunt in Montana, where we generally don't need to wipe down rifles after a hunt, because it's so dry nothing much rusts very much, unless left out all year long for 5-10 years.

2) When I do use some sort of oil, it's mostly on the bolt and action, because they can get a little dry (and sometimes dusty) with use. When I do wipe them down with a little oil, it's generally automatic transmission fluid bought by the quart at Walmart. I refill the smaller containers that many companies send to me, because that's usually what's inside "gun oil" containers. Or at least three companies that sell "gun oil" have admitted as much. It works great for general lubing of firearms.

I’d say he didn’t use enough or he’d have not been so FOS.

DF

FIRST, a sincere thank you.

Living and hunting the Humid South we need to pay attention to moisture or
‘Rain’. I’ve lived in Ark. &. La. plus hunted in Miss. & Al. so prudent precautions are in order.

That said, I have not had much trouble with rust at all.
I’ve used WD 40 ON a rag NOT sprayed on firearms.
I’ve used Hoppes.
I’ve used Remoil.
I’ve used Silicon.
I’ve used 3in1 oil and no doubt others I can’t remember.

I’ve never thot about ATF.......will NOT forget.

Thanks Again

Jerry

Another vote for Mobil 1. I use 0-W-20 on a flannel rag.

In 1974 I bought my wife a new Browning BL-22 lever-action rifle that came home new in the box. The dealer hadn't had it out of the box. The rifle's metal was all coated with a thin layer of some sort of light wax.

At home, wiping the gun down thoroughly with a soft rag was a pleasure, because the light wax wiped off very easily. It left a beautiful, smooth, protective finish on the gun. I have always wondered what that product was. I would like to get some. I have never run into something quite like it, as far as I know.

+2

I have personally watched OlBlue get soaking wet... drenched even... many, many times while cradling a rifle or shotgun... But it was often just salt spray off a Kodiak wave breaking...

Many, many times we discussed the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly of keeping metal black...

Sometimes we had to put the discussions on hold while we ran rapids, shot critters, calculated tides, dropped guts, laughed at the Captain giggling over schools of pollack, retrieved ducks, skinned Kodiak bears, shot Sitka blacktails, shot ducks, stacked foxes, dodged salt spray, rode huge standing waves, prepped skulls for display, and generally had a good time.

Of course, decades spent in real weather do not mean anything. I need the advice of someone in the high desert to let me know how to protect my valuables!

😊

Gee, my post was meant as a joke, but evidently wasn't taken that way,

Mike, the OP, asked what oil people prefer for "wiping down" their rifle after hunt. I have hunted other places than Montana, among them Alaska in several places, including both the Peninsula and Kodiak more than once. Have also hunted other wet and, often, salty places, including the Gulf Coast area of the U.S., New Zealand, the fjord country of Norway, Anticosti island, coastal British Columbia, the southern Arctic Ocean and both sides of Hudson Bay in Canada, and Africa both early and late in the rainy season.

Have used everything from traditional walnut-and-blue rifles to synthetic-stocked models with miracle coatings (including some used inside barrels) and experimented with various oils and coatings a LOT, partly because manufacturers send 'em to me for that purpose. There's a pretty long chapter on weather-proofing rifles in my latest big game book, published in 2017, which covers the range of stuff just mentioned.

As a result I don't really have a favorite "gun oil," because I've found so many to work well, both for rust-prevention and lubrication, but these days do mostly hunt in Montana, partly because I've done just about all the other kinds of hunting I wanted to do elsewhere on the planet, along with some I didn't know would be so enjoyable until I went.

But one of the things I do like about hunting here is that we don't have to worry much about rusting guns, though have seen it happen even to stainless-steel barrels (which usually aren't made out of a very rust-proof varieity of stainless) after they've spent a week or more in an old leather saddle scabbard on a horseback hunt, which has been thoroughly "cured" by horse-sweat over the years. But we still have to lube 'em once in a while, mostly because of dust.

Boy, that's rare for the 'fire, huh?

Actually, I appreciate all the responses as they've answered some questions I had other than the original one. It looks like it boils down to something like Breakfree CO or EESOX for long term storage, ATF for an exterior wipe-down, and maybe a CLP or good ol' Hoppes for a run through the bore. To think of the money I could have saved over the years!

Our climate on the east coast of Florida is certainly different from yours, especially this time of year when pigs are still in the line-up. It's hot and humid, we get afternoon thunderstorms that dump a lot of rain in just a few minutes, and there's always some level of salt from the Atlantic in the air. Even in our cooler dry season we still have enough heat, humidity, and salt to mess things up. And none of that takes into account perspiration that gets on things as well. So yeah, we wipe 'em down when we come in.

Thanks to everyone who offered their thoughts and experiences. It's much appreciated.

RM

Don't forget used motor oil.

Take a few used coffee filters from your garbage, strain the oil through them to remove the grit, and presto! Lube! It's also good for staining lighter woods for a faux walnut look.

Gee, my post was meant as a joke, but evidently wasn't taken that way...

I have heard the best motor oil for corrosion protection is the Amsoil Z-rod line. I'm going to get a quart and try it out.
Heck of a lot cheaper than the tiny bottles of gun specific stuff, and probably better

Rev, I just wipe them down with a wee bit of Penetrol on a rag.

Seems to work...and I don't have to bother thinking about it again.

For the insides I now use syntheitic Nulon motor oil as it doesn't stink, I previously used Military formula Break-free that had been liberated from the Australian Army but stopped as it stinks to high hell. I started with three and have just the one bottle left...and somewhere out there is some fool with no sense of smell slowly making his way in my direction, when he gets here I shall gift him with the last bottle of this horrendous concoction.

I love the smell of Break Free and Hoppe’s No. 9.

RevMike,

I'm pretty familiar with the Florida climate, having visited various parts of the state since my first trip in 1985. Mostly have fished, but also hunted Osceola turkeys, and as mentioned earlier have also hunted other Gulf Coast states--in fact all except Louisiana. (Have only hunted Cajun food there, mostly in New Orleans.) In fact have hunted more than once in the sand dunes along the Gulf in Texas, and been both roasting and semi-hypthermic in Alabama.. It is indeed a different climate than Montana!

My first sample of Frog Lube landed yesterday, the paste.

Smells minty (but my wife grabbed her nose and gagged. "Minty" must be subjective).

Last year I took my collection of partly filled gun oil bottles and combined them, including a small bottle of Ed’s red I made up, into a near empty quart of Mobil 1 5-30.

I figure I’m covered for everything now.

Usually use Breakfree CLP though.

No Mobil 1 for me. It's Castrol full synthetic or nothin'! And when the current jug of it's depleted (probably around 2067 or so) I'll switch to the German synthetic Lubri-Moly that I now use in my car.

That or sperm whale oil.

(Actually ATF is a close approximation of sperm oil. Sperm oil was the oil of choice for early automatic transmissions. ATF was developed as a substitute for it.)

JSTUART wrote it a little less diplomatically than I had earlier, but until I am hunting nose blind deer, there is no way that I'm ever using Break Free on any of my hunting rifles. If I can smell it that strongly, it isn't going to be all that attractive to something down wind. Rig as a wipe down has worked way better.

I submit that the deer are gonna smell you anyway if they're downwind of you.

I thought this would be brought up. They might, but why give them such a heavy scent stream if you can avoid it? To my way of thinking if I clean up real well, they might get a faint Windfall whiff, but they won't know if it is a human at 200 yards or 50 yards in which case it would be too late I hope. Give them a nose full of something as foreign smelling as a strong oil based Break Free or the like and you wouldn't even know they were there. Just a theory, but my trophy room is't half bad doing what I do. It probably depends on where you hunt too. I can get away with a lot more when I'm hunting farm land deer that are use to people than I can hunting deep woods deer.

All in good fun. I actually shot the biggest buck of my life while I had a cigar butt clamped in my mouth.

My father used to drink coffee and eat Pop Tarts (pre plastic envelope) that he warmed against his Jon-e hand warmer. He got plenty of deer too.

Since someone mentioned ATF was developed as a substitute for sperm oil I'll say that RIG gun grease was developed as a substitute for cosmoline during WWII. Just as effective in long term storage and shipment but easy to wipe off the excess and get the weapon in service in short order.

But not for lubrication. Over years RIG will turn waxy and gum stuff up. Also stiffens in cold weather. Finally not much film strength. For lubrication I like Break Free in a needle oiler or Valvoline SynPower moly fortified synthetic grease where I want high film strength. It's a lot like the expensive stuff Brownell's sells in the little jar, Action Lube II IIRC. Just the thing for snow blowers too. Firearms made with modern steel need little lubrication

And for internal corrosion protection I like Brownell's Rust Preventive No.2. Spray the stuff on after a deep cleaning, blow off the excess, and it dries to a thin film adhering to the metal. Which is all you need for where the film can't be disturbed by your sweaty little fingers.

Buy a quart of syn ATF. It will outlast your grandkids

Snowwolfe,

And cost a lot less--though you can spend the money saved on grandchildren!

Depends on what I’m using it for.

Rem Oil
G96 Gun Treatment
Breakfree CLP
Pro Gold Lubricant

Mike,

Short version: Breakfree CLP

Reasons:
1) It's commonly available. You can find it nearly anywhere guns are sold.
2) It's not outrageously priced. $6-7 for a 4oz can isn't bad as far as gun specific oils are concerned.
3) It's been proven over time to work decently at what it claims to do (I find it's weakest attribute is as a cleaner). It may not be the best lube or protectant out there, but it's still good at both.
4) While it does thicken a bit in very cold weather (sub-zero temps) it still is fairly thin and shouldn't impede firearm function (not a consideration for Florida).

The biggest downside is the smell is a bit strong.

I also like Ballistol and find it a better cleaner than Breakfree CLP but maybe it trails a bit as a lube or protectant. Still good enough on both counts for my uses. It is safe on wood, plastics, leather, etc and is non-toxic which I like. It can also be used to clean up fouling from black powder if you dabble in that area as well. Some people claim it smells like wet socks and to others it smells faintly of licorice. I have the non-aerosol can and I think it smells faintly of licorice. It's also not commonly available, except perhaps on-line.

But I also don't have to deal with a humid or salt-water environment. If looking for a top protectant I'd look at:
Guardian LP
Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner w/ DynaGlide
Corrosion X
Eesox
Frog Lube (may gum in cold weather. Again, not a consideration for Florida).

Since 2007, the only gun "oil" I use is prolix. It goes on wet like water, dries completely dry like water, and I have never had better protection. I highly recommend people take a look at it. You can google prolix lubricant. You can literally dunk your equipment in it, let it drip dry, and your stuff is protected. It is not oily but dries to an invisible barrier over the metal. Love it and only use it. Even in the high humidity of Houston, I never get rust of any kind. I run a wet patch of it through my barrels at the end of the season and it is good to go. They also sell a thicker "grease" that is great for slides.

Yah think?

The best way to mask scent is to follow Rover's system and go roll around in some manure.

Whatever you use, it didn't cost enough. Everyone knows gun oils work better the more you spend.

I heard my buddy's friend got some of the cleaner/lubricant that they used in the space shuttle. Apparently, it's worth something like $800 an ounce, but don't quote me on that.

Anyway, my buddy's friend swears that when he used a single patch of it on his tiller that had been sitting out all winter, it not only removed the dirt and rust, but it bonded with the metal, filling in the cracks and pitting. Oddly, it also restored the red paint that was applied new at the factory. Amazing.

He said he was gonna clean his wife with it. They've been married for 35 years and he said she's in bad shape.

Steve
Please post the final results when your buddy uses it on his wife.
(If your buddy is still alive and capable of speech)

I just got off the phone with him. Here are the before and after pictures. I think this should prove, beyond all doubt, that the more you spend on gun oil, the better the result.

Before



After a single NASA Gun Oil treatment

Ah, yes, that tired old line dreamed up by some huckster and blindly accepted by too many: "You get what you pay for."

It's a slippery slope that you're walking. A person could go off on a tangent about spending more than they can afford on rifle scopes, rifles, binoculars, bullets, etc.

Wait a minute! Isn't that happening on other parts of this board?

I wonder, has anyone got into a discussion about not going hunting with a domestic truck or 4x4? I'm thinking that you cannot be a successful hunter if you drive a Ford or a Chevy! I think the minimum would be a Mercedes 4x4 or a Range Rover. One's gun oil should not be transported in a North American made vehicle.

For quick wipe down I use whatever I have on hand.....a silicon cloth, Remoil, or Breakfree CLP. For lube in tight places I do like Gun Butter with the needle tip....puts lube right where you want it with no waste.

Damn have only hunted out of the Mercedes sedan or coups, need to upgrade.

So if anyone knows, do the polarizing and other additives make any difference? Is Teflon good bad or indifferent?

After this thread it will be ATF or Ed's Red for clean up, Mobil 1 for lube, Axle grease (cup grease?) for storage and a variation of the Samuri plant based oils for knives and hunting when scent might matter. I am still looking for ways to make Ed's Red have that auh de parfum of Hoppes #9 getting darn close with some banana oil, plant based benzene and a little orange oil. Bought some mil surplus bore cleaner that I think was 50% Benzene, gives you PTSD after one use.

Was at an auto parts store a few months ago and saw a small bottle of Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. Bought it and began using it with excellent results. It stays put, is very slippery and doesn't burn off.

It isn't a CLP, nor AFIK a rust preventative, but it is a superior lubricant for everything I've tried it on. Comes in a neat, well made container with a pinpoint metal applicator tip.

G96
Eezox
Corrosion-X

Prolix is what I use

I buy liquid wrench spray both lube and penetrating from Wally World. It used to have Teflon in it, but since Teflons Patent expired they use another brand of the same thing, probably because it's cheaper. This oil gives me everything Break Free or RemOil do for about half price. I don't use an excess amount of anything.

WD-40 is made to displace water, so I think it's a good choice after a hunt in wet conditions. Before a hunt, RIG is a good choice. I've been using RIG before a hunt when I knew my firearm would get wet since 1974.

I got a big can of Rem-oil, and a little one, that should last a lifetime. And a little bottle of Outers.
I'm not tryin to do any comparison tests. And if I ever do run out I'll just buy the first can of gun oil I see.

I’ve had no luck with Rem oil or the like. Switched to Corrosion-X and no issues since.

Hoppe's for.me.

I use 50% ATF / 50% Kerosene-- part of the recipe for Ed's Red. It's cheap and it works great. If ATF will keep a transmission from seizing, it ought to be good on a gun action. If I'm storing for any length of time, I'll add a drop or two of Eesox when I'm doing the outside.

I never use WD-40 on my guns. Have cleared up too many for friends. The varnish like substance that stuff makes is terrible, hard to get off.

I really like Ballistol. I learned about it from cowboy action shooters. It is non petroleum, doesn’t gum up. CAS shooters use it with black powder, something you don’t do with petrol products. Some BP shooters dilute it, making what they call “pigeon milk” like machinists use. It is a good lube and helps control rust. Funky smell.

DF

Yep--except I just use the cheapest ATF I can buy locally. .

Found out over the years that quite a few "gun oils" are essentially repackaged ATF,

I might have some ATF lying around in the garage. Never thought of using it in any other way than in a transmission. It just doesn't seem right! Live and learn...

For decades I have had a secret recipe for gun oil, Kroil and Klotz 2 stroke oil 50/50. It has worked for me and I still use it to this day........
But I was at a National Motocross race a couple years ago and a Major sponsor......Lucas Oil had a booth that they were giving away samples of Lucas Gun Oil. I tried it and must admit I like it.
Still use my old brew but find myself using the Lucas more and more

My 2 favorites are Very Very Little and Less Yet.
For most hunting I run them dry.
If I must - I use G96.
For areas that absolutely must have a thin film I use BREAK FREE CLP

Break Free and Ezzox

G96 and Barricade.

John, to clarify, do you mix it 50/50 with Kerosene?

Lucas Red or Lucas Extreme, both keep AR's and 1911's wet like they like to be ran.

WD 40 Specialist (not the same as regular WD 40) for rust prevention. Lucas gun oil for lubrication.

gotsarock,

Nope, use it straight. It's very temperature-flexible, and doesn't gunk up like some other oils.

As a lubricant or anti-corrosion or both?

Mostly lubricant, we don't need anti-rust oil all that often in Montana. But the rifles I tend to use when the weather's wet are already pretty rust-resistant anyway, due to stainless steel or modern metal coatings.

Tag

Amazing, the life a gun oil thread can get...almost like “what’s the best chainsaw “ threads.

For me, I’ve settled on eezox for rust prevention, straight Kroil for bores, and 50/50 Kroil and Marvel Mystery Oil for lubing AR’s, auto pistols, and auto shotguns that like to run wet. I have used other stuff...I’m of the mind anything is better than nothing and one honest effort is worth a thousand good intentions.

I think the Kroil/MMO mix not only lubes those fast shooters, but doesn’t gum in cold weather and tends to keep carbon fouling suspended so it doesn’t build up.
Not a big deal, of course, with bolt guns and the like

This is what I have on hand and use what I feel the situation calls for.
But I live in a fairly dry climate, so borderline products work pretty well.

Rem oil, Break Free CLP, Mobil 1 Syn motor oil, Frog Lube, and WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor.

Back when I use to hunt out of a skiff in the salt of Alaska I liked Rem-oil in aerosol can. I’d spray the rifle down every evening and once in a while hose it off, then re-apply Rem oil. Worked better than the other stuff I tried.

Store bought oil: Hoppes
My mix: 1/2 90 wt gear oil and 1/2 RemOil with teflon
For outside of the gun to protect from moisture: DuPont chain lube.

kwg

Current preference Shooters Choice FP10 for lube, Seafoam Deep Creep for rust prevention.

Thanks John.

Those of you recommending ATF, which is better, the Ford or GM formulation? (Sorry, I couldn't resist)


As mentioned above WD-40 is a Water Dispersant (WD) and has little to recommend it as either a rust preventative or a lubricant, though it will do some penetration.

My vote is for Breakfree, though I admittedly have not tried all of the various oils mentioned in this thread.

Walmart's finest grade of ATF....

I have used Rem Oil for years and never had a problem or saw the need for anything else. I use it on everything, bolts, lugs, ejectors, extractors, slides, rails and even though some may have a hissy, triggers. Both handguns and rifles. We may not have the cold that some of you do but I have been out with them in 0 degree temps hunting all day and have never had it to freeze up or to congeal and become sticky. Spray it on, wipe or shake off excess. It evaporates just leaving a dry coat of teflon on the parts.


That being said, a few months ago when I was at Wally World they were out of it so I picked up a can of Break Free CLP. It seems to be doing pretty good. I am a little worried about it staying so wet and am concerned that it may attract dirt and dust. I have not used it on triggers and would not until it has proven itself to me.

Gun oil.

I’m not sure but it sounds like that dealer might have used Mil-Spec Light Weapons Lubricant. I am also not sure what is in it but it leaves a film of wax or silicone, (whatever it is) on what ever it is applied to. I have wondered why no one has mentioned it thus far in this thread but I am not to the end of this LOOONG thread yet, though my post will be.......
FYI, I like it and also Slick 2000 for rust prevention. But I have to admit that I haven’t tried all the lubes & goos that have been mentioned.
I also like plain old wax lube in a tube or Kiwi Boot polish to hit the spots inside the stock that aren’t seen very often.

I worked at a tourist oriented gun range/shop that went through 12 million rounds/year, mostly in full auto guns.

Guns were run hot,dirty and relentlessly, ATF was the lube of choice of our gunsmiths and used lavishly on everything.



mike r

ATF

lvbiker,

Thanks for the info!

I started using ATF when more than one gunsmith, who was selling his own "gun oil," admitted to me that it was ATF in smaller, custom-labeled bottles. But they used ATF themselves, because that's what they preferred for general firearms use, since it was inexpensive and worked very well.

Snake oil.

ATF as a fuel additive in my diesels.

Which kind of snake?

I've heard good things about WD-40.

That's in the mix instructions for Ed's Red bore solvent.

BTW: I was down at the loading bench this AM, and I was reminded of something. In front of me on the bench was a container of 3-in-1 oil. It's probably 30 years old. I use it to lubricate the ram on my Rockchucker press. Before that, it was left open on the top shelf of my gun safe for a decade or so. It replaces a can of 3-in-1 oil that was left open in a box of firearms with an oily rag on top.

The firearms belonged to my grandfather who died in 1976. They were placed in the box by my father as we were cleaning out his closet. The firearms were all stored together in a confined space. Grandpa had left a can of 3-in-1 Oil in there; it was open with a rag on top.

Dad never touched the box. I did once every few years after 1976. I didn't really think about them in any serious way until the early 80's when I showed them to my friend, Bob, who explained their value to me. Shortly after that, I started shooting.

My reason for telling you all this is that the only protection they received in probably 30-40 years was that open can of 3-in-1 oil. Grandpa never shot for as long I was alive. My guess is he hadn't shot since before 1950 or so. The firearms were probably placed in that closet when they moved into the house in 1948, and not touched. They spent 7 years in the box my Dad put them in. I handled them occasionally.

Not a spot of rust-- not on any firearm, not ever. Go figure.

As a result, when I got my first gun safe, I made sure to get a can of 3-in-1 Oil and leave it open on the shelf of the safe.

Started using Ballistol and RIG on carry iron because it is said to be non-toxicadacious.
Now I'm figuring why not on long guns too. Is there a major downside to this stuff?

Non-toxicawhat?

Non-toxicawhat...yeah, that's it.

Since this thread has now been going for over eight months and 19 pages, I got curious and added up the various kinds of "gun oil" mentioned as favorites--and only bothered with the lubes, not the various degrees of rust preventatives.

We're now up to 34 absolute best gun oils....

John, how many of those 34 absolutely best gun oils do you think are nothing more than rebottled ATF?

And the winner is. At least IMO. Also since working from home I am only showering every other day. So I have been using Hoppe’s No. 9 as a cologne.

Liking what one uses, makes it the best! Ever!

I had settled on Mobile One many years ago for my primary lube and exterior wipe down oil. Never thought about using ATF until I followed this thread and it has now earned a place on my workbench lineup, thanks to the Campfire wise ones. I am also starting to try it for other lubricant applications.

MOGC,

Who knows!

I do know, however, that many of the "gun oils" I've been sent to test turn out to be red-tinted....

Yeah, after reading this thread I cast a suspicious eye on that Lucas RED on my bench!

Any decent oil for an exterior wipe down

For a do it all product the Army got me hooked on Breakfree CLP. Probably not the best cleaner but a great lube and protectant. I recently bought some of Lucas Oil’s CLP to try out as I use their car/truck products a ton and like their performance.

For a bore cleaner WipeOut is my favorite.

After this thread I may try out ATF.

70% Sperm whale oil, 30% Ed’s Red, 10% Unicorn tears for 110% goodness.

Gunzilla make a good product.

I use Ed's Red for gun oil, cleaner, killing ant hills, and burning brush piles. Maybe other things I have forgotten. Oh yes, I use the basic 50/50 mineral spirits/ ATF to clean and lube my bicycle chains. I use the little wash devices/boxes that surround the chain and clamp together. I wash with one amount., drain the box, and use a new batch to lube. Let the bike drip off then wipe off with a clean cloth. If I'm commuting as I used to, I chain washed once a week. I went through my first chain at 5,000 miles. Still ride the bike some at 6,000 miles but have retired. The Ed's Red was something I didn't know by name for years. But it contributed to long life for a chain drive that got hit by mud, salt, and assorted grit every day. Maybe it will work on your gun??? Be Well, Rustyzipper.

Baby oil.

Can't get any frizzin' sillier than puttin' Ballistol on yer pancakes.

Wot a time waster.

No point in sobering up now. Just keep drinking all day......

Singer sewing machine oil.

Does it work on a rusty zipper?

I actually have a vintage can of Singer sewing machine oil on my bench. I mostly use it for my pocket knives but it has found it's way into several revolvers.

I used to work with a custom rifle maker making bottom metal. I was running the CnC one day and he was on the bench assembling a rifle. He said, “hey, come here for a second and smell this,” whereby he held out a q-tip. I smelled it and it smelled like nothing else I had ever smelled before. He looked at me and said, “sperm oil.” And went back to his work. Turns out Brownells used to sell the stuff and he used it on all his trigger assemblies. Interesting stuff.

Brownells did sell it (gallon tin from memory)...and if I could find a tin of it I would use it too, first because it works, and second just to stick it to the bastards that insist I shouldn't.