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Breakfree CLP

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Not a gun writer, but IMO, most of the high end firearms lubricants perform in a similar manner. You pay your money and you take your choice. I've also used Mobil 1 with good results. I use a Marine Tuff Cloth, Hornady spray or Boesheild for rust protection. No rust problems thus far.

That said, I recently had a lock on an outside door refuse to operate. I sprayed both Balistol and Safari Charlie into the lock; still negative function.

Finally called a locksmith who sprayed the interior with Tri Flow, a teflon based lubricant. The recalcitrant lock immediately began to work again. The locksmith said the teflon component was what made the difference.

I personally do not use teflon based lubricants on firearms as I read somewhere long ago that they get gummy when the carrier evaporates. Don't know if this is true, but FWIW, a teflon based lube did the trick on my door lock. The Tri Flow spray is relatively inexpensive. The service call was $80.

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Lately I've been using Lucas Gun Oil for lubrication, after I read a very positive review by a guy who had kept careful records on maintenance of high usage range rental guns. I got it at NAPA auto parts, and it seems a bit cheaper, or at least less over priced than most gun juices where you pay for the hype.

Paul


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There have been some very good rust prevention tests in the last couple of years.

Two products stood out, way beyond the other products, including my own personal favorite Eezox

#1 was Hornady one shot

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...eaner-with-dyna-glide-plus-10-oz-aerosol

#2 on a close tie was Frog Lube


I found the test hard to believe, so I bought some Hornady one shot. I sprayed down a Rossi single barrel 12ga and put it in my hay barn, with the barn open on the front and a door open on the side. I forgot about the gun for 6 months....no rust on the gun....very humid environment, I might say.

Here is a lengthy article on various lubes....get ready to get blown away at the results, as this guy did a world class job.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

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Originally Posted by flintlocke
My son did a semi scientific test years ago, for a high school project, evaluating oils in a controlled humidity rust bluing box. Boiled, degreased 10 penny nails for the test subject. Of course, I had to get involved, and included a few 4140, chrome moly, ordnance steel etc. barrel stubs from re barreling jobs. Used a lot of so-called gun oils, common engine and industrial oils and so on, I think about 30 oils in all. Very disappointing results, and you guys ain't gonna like this, but the top two performers were ATF and rendered sheep fat (used in machining some steels prone to tearing). My own firearms are coated lightly with sheep fat in the bore and out. Awesome performance with old soft steel black powder guns.



Sold at the local chemist as "anhydrous lanolin"...used by lactating mothers and works okay on wounds...don 't use it on leather as is is a wee big greasy.


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Anhydrous lanolin...I'da never thunk it.
Oh, and I forgot to add, the sheep fat, which does have a slight gamey odor, brings a nice glow to old dry walnut stocks, my 150 year old Peabody carbine benefited greatly from judicious applications. Last time I got a Dixie catalog, they were still selling it for cheap.
I believe petroleum based oils and preservatives soften wood, cosmoline certainly does. I suspect Frog Oil mentioned above is an organic base oil, but I can live without the perfume they put in it to make the wifey happy.


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Outers, because I have so much of it!

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Keith, Thanks for the heads up. That guys not normal, in a good way. I only use Hornady one shot on my press. I'll fix that.


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I have used Frog Lube a lot , anytime i buy a new gun it gets wiped down with this and reassembeled. I use ballistol or Clennzoil for cleaning the internals of the action and bolt whatever is handy. Wipeout or KG12 for the bore and clennzoil or ballistol on a patch following it up.

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Lately I’ve been using Montana Extreme gun oil and gun grease. Works for me.....


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Originally Posted by flintlocke
Anhydrous lanolin...I'da never thunk it.
Oh, and I forgot to add, the sheep fat, which does have a slight gamey odor, brings a nice glow to old dry walnut stocks, my 150 year old Peabody carbine benefited greatly from judicious applications. Last time I got a Dixie catalog, they were still selling it for cheap.
I believe petroleum based oils and preservatives soften wood, cosmoline certainly does. I suspect Frog Oil mentioned above is an organic base oil, but I can live without the perfume they put in it to make the wifey happy.
Oils don't soften wood that is well sealed inside and out with a barrier type finish such as spar varnish, spar polyurethane or automotive clear coat. I've used nothing but ATF on my guns for 30 years and have no rust or oil soaked wood on any of them. A quart of the stuff lasts for decades and the proof is in the performance as they say, so I have no reason or intention to change. At work we use Mobil vactra oil #2 as a lubricant on the guns we build and it also works very well.

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Originally Posted by Blackheart
Originally Posted by flintlocke
Anhydrous lanolin...I'da never thunk it.
Oh, and I forgot to add, the sheep fat, which does have a slight gamey odor, brings a nice glow to old dry walnut stocks, my 150 year old Peabody carbine benefited greatly from judicious applications. Last time I got a Dixie catalog, they were still selling it for cheap.
I believe petroleum based oils and preservatives soften wood, cosmoline certainly does. I suspect Frog Oil mentioned above is an organic base oil, but I can live without the perfume they put in it to make the wifey happy.
Oils don't soften wood that is well sealed inside and out with a barrier type finish such as spar varnish, spar polyurethane or automotive clear coat. I've used nothing but ATF on my guns for 30 years and have no rust or oil soaked wood on any of them. A quart of the stuff lasts for decades and the proof is in the performance as they say so I have no reason or intention of changing. At work we use Mobil vactra oil #2 as a lubricant on the guns we build and it also works very well.


Storing long guns with muzzle down stops a lot of that


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Originally Posted by Blu_Cs
Corrosion X the stuff is awesome. Bonds to the molecules and is very slick and smooth. For me it falls into the same usefulness category as vinegar, baking soda, wire coat hangers and duct tape. Does everything that PB blaster, WD40, RemOil, ATF and others do. Better.


+2

2nd choice is Froglube.


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Originally Posted by flintlocke
My son did a semi scientific test years ago, for a high school project, evaluating oils in a controlled humidity rust bluing box. Boiled, degreased 10 penny nails for the test subject. Of course, I had to get involved, and included a few 4140, chrome moly, ordnance steel etc. barrel stubs from re barreling jobs. Used a lot of so-called gun oils, common engine and industrial oils and so on, I think about 30 oils in all. Very disappointing results, and you guys ain't gonna like this, but the top two performers were ATF and rendered sheep fat (used in machining some steels prone to tearing). My own firearms are coated lightly with sheep fat in the bore and out. Awesome performance with old soft steel black powder guns.



As far as rust prevention, what about Fluid Film?


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Ballistol And Hornady one shot.


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Originally Posted by JSTUART
Originally Posted by flintlocke
My son did a semi scientific test years ago, for a high school project, evaluating oils in a controlled humidity rust bluing box. Boiled, degreased 10 penny nails for the test subject. Of course, I had to get involved, and included a few 4140, chrome moly, ordnance steel etc. barrel stubs from re barreling jobs. Used a lot of so-called gun oils, common engine and industrial oils and so on, I think about 30 oils in all. Very disappointing results, and you guys ain't gonna like this, but the top two performers were ATF and rendered sheep fat (used in machining some steels prone to tearing). My own firearms are coated lightly with sheep fat in the bore and out. Awesome performance with old soft steel black powder guns.



Sold at the local chemist as "anhydrous lanolin"...used by lactating mothers and works okay on wounds...don 't use it on leather as is is a wee big greasy.



Lanolin is not rendered sheep fat. Lanolin comes from the wool of sheep.

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I buy lanolin on ebay in 1lb tubs. Good chit for lots of stuff and I use it on all of my leather. It's ok if a hair dryer is used to melt it into the leather.

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Originally Posted by JayJunem



Lanolin is not rendered sheep fat. Lanolin comes from the wool of sheep.


Tired and read that as "wool fat", I am an ex shearer and know very well what lanolin is.


These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Ballistol or Break Free for cleaning a bore of powder residue and wipe down. Never had a spot of rust on a gun wiped with Break Free, and over time in a bore it will work on copper a bit, as evidenced by the blue on a patch when removed. Ballistol won't harm wood or leather and is THE product for BP guns. It will, however, gum at very low temps.

Dri-Slide on the "works" like triggers, revolver innards, and inside bolts. Apply, let dry, then such stuff is lubed for a long time.

High-temp moly truck bearing grease for the contact surfaces of rifle bolts, falling blocks, pump guns, revolvers, etc. like Dri-Slide, it's messy stuff, but stays put, and is slip-per-y!

Tried various other products over the years, but these work and are always going to be around.

Got a soft spot for Rem Oil, not for guns, but years ago I used it, along with some clever tweaking, to whip serious ass in an AWANA pine block racer event at our church. Both my sons won their races, as did my wife with a car I'd put together as a spare for any child without one. Even the Pastor was pissed at us! One of my parenting high points.


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