Since I'm so full of good questions recently.......what do you look at to decide what powder your gonna load when your developing for a new rifle? are there specific velocities in the books vs case capacity/load density vs pressure estimates using software vs bullet weight?

obviously it can change if its just not shooting well, but ya gotta start somewhere and making a good educated guess saves lots of time and money.

Yes Im somewhat of a newbie, but not a dummy.....lol
And i tried searching similar topics, but didn't see anything to really answer my question.

I go through as many manuals as available and note the common "most accurate load" listed. If two or three manuals list the same powder that is a good one to start with. I also look for top velocity and close to a 100% fill level. If this also has lower pressure then it is a good choice. I will also pick the temperature tolerant powders first. Then I consider things like good metering, clean burning and availability. A good place to start is with JBs "Loads that work" old and new and "Pet Loads" by Ken Waters. Each of these writers have extensive experience and will up any ones learning curve on reloading.

I don't have any experience with "Loads that work" but I have used loads from Ken Waters "Pet Loads" for many years. As a matter of fact I have letters from Ken in my files from back in the day when he would personally answer readers of Handloader magazines questions. Last fall I used a Ken Waters load to take a nice whitetail buck, the load was outstandingly accurate often producing 3 shot cloverleaf groups @ 100yds. and performance on game was equally impressive. The handloading world suffered a real loss with Ken's passing, his wisdom, knowledge and experience live on in his legacy "Pet Loads".

Guess im gonna have to search out these articles and read up then....

It would be time well spent, gleaning knowledge from Ken Waters especially, he was considered by many to be the "Dean of Handloaders". While I read material from lots of other sources including as many loading manuals as I have access to, Pet Loads has never failed to provide useful information.

Start by learning a bit about powder burn rates in general and how that relates to the bore vs case volume. Study some burn rate charts (the Western Powders chart has the best visual representation IMO), but also keep in mind that those charts are an attempt to describe a three dimensional attribute in one dimension.

With some understanding of burn rates, look at load data for your cartridge, and focus on the top few powders for velocity. (In most cases the accuracy load, if listed, will be one of those powders too.) Comparing the burn rate of those powders to your charts will give you an indication that other powders within the same range may also work well. Consider density too though; sometimes a powder of the correct burn rate is too bulky, so it doesn't work simply because you can't get enough in the case.

That's how I start off. There are exceptions of course, like when building mild loads, working with cast bullets, or other things that stray from traditional published data. There are some rules of thumb to apply with those type of things, which we can discuss if you want.

When assigned an article on a specific cartridge, I start by consulting the latest published data, noting what loads are noted for accuracy (more companies do that these days) along with highest velocity. Have found most rifle handloaders are still into the highest possible velocity, despite a few contrarians.

Then I test all the top-listed powders, with several different bullets. Often I play around with seating depth as well. The tests often agree with published results, but also sometimes don't. But in general, those powders provide the highest odds of a good, consistent load..

Would add that while Ken Waters' PET LOADS in a great resource, probably the majority of powders he used are either discontinued, or have changed--even though the name is the same. But many of his other results are very useful. One example is how he got better results in many instance with .224" bullets in the .22 Savage High Power than supposedly "correct" .227-.228 bullets.

And that is why reloaders have to keep current. Things change. Technology improves. Older data may no longer be
any good.

As a general rule, I start with the reloading manual for the bullet I'm using. The Hornady manual for Hornady bullets, for example.

To reinforce what John has posted, the powders listed in the manuals have been tested. They are usually your best bet.

As well, the bullet co. tech line is a valuable resource.

We all have different priorities.....among mine is to continuously reduce the number of powders I keep on hand.

So I do this:.....since I have decided to only use Hodgdon powders, I go to their website and review the best velocity potential for their powders.....I then review what I have on hand.....If I already stock one of the "listed" powders, I start there...…(usually I do)

I usually start with something a bit on the slow burning side, and work toward faster burning as needed. Plus I start with a temperature compensated powder whenever possible.

I'm one of those contrarians MD mentioned. Once I decided that 200 yards was the farthest I would walk to pick up an animal, my life got a lot simpler. It does not take a super zippy load to reliably work at that range.

I look for powders that give decent velocity at the starting level. That way, if I get good accuracy right off, I can just call it done, and brass and barrel get a break. My requirements are admittedly modest since my shots are usually pretty close.

Berger recommends trying different seating depths at the starting level to determine the best position, then tweaking the powder charge. Gonna try that with their 115gr 6mm, then maybe with bullets from other makers.

Friend, does that indicate age ? or the decision to not spend that much effort ?



As for myself, I must walk whatever that distance is to verify shot placement and expected
demise of game. After that I walk to my 4 Wheeler for retrieval.

Thanks Mr D

Jerry

I check my reloading book for recommended loads. I try them first. I use IMR 4350 and Reloader 22 in most of my rifles. I need to try other powders but I get such good results, I’m having a hard time making myself change.

Hanco you might take a look at R23 it works in most applications that R22 and 4350 work. It's temperature tolerance is as good or better than H4350 and lot to lot variation (so far) beats the heck out of R22. I am getting almost as much velocity with R23 as I am getting with R26 so I may phase out R26 although there are rumors that Nitro Chemie is working to make it even more temperature insensitive which it is very good at for normal temperatures already, it's just the abnormal temps of Texas where there is much variation and pressure increases.

Tejano....I was also wondering about temp sensitivity of the RL powders. I have seen lots of good data from 23 and 26 when researching for my 6.5-284, but also know historically RL is not stable. Living and hunting in Mississippi some days ill hunt in 20-30 degree weather and some days itll be 65 or higher

buy i keg of H4831 short cut

A Moore, simple really get the Nosler and Hornady latest editions reloading manuals . Look at the data on what you want to load for ,look at the loads that produce the highest velocity at max pressure get those components, start at the recommended load and carefully work up to your accuracy load. Why start with powders that burn to fast or slow for ideal performance for the cartridge you are using? MB

For a guy just starting out, I'd recommend the Hodgdon Reloading Center:

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/

It has loads for all Hodgdon, IMR, and Winchester powders. That's a fairly big universe to get started. I've been into reloading for nearly 2 decades, and a rarely stray out that database.

I also recommend sticking with middle-of-the-road powders for the following reasons:

1) Slower powders will get you into trouble in a hurry if you undercharge
2) Faster powders will get you into trouble if you double-charge.
3) Powders like H4895 are not sensitive to where they sit in the case, how much they fill the case or the ambient temperature.



I also want to give a big +1 for Pet Loads. That's a wonderful reference.

One thing I always keep in mind is the idea of running powders within the correct or proper pressure range. Using a slow number like 7828 at 42000 psi, as an example, probably won't turn in good performance. Much better to run something faster, like one of the 4350s at 55000 psi or more, as appropriate.

John:

Do you also try to look for one with close to maximum case fill (discounting the compressed load data)? Do you find those loads that show 95-99% density the most consistent?

Recommended loads from load manuals are "by far" your best resource IMO

Doing some research on the internet doesn't hurt as long as it's taken with a grain of salt



Trystan

This site isn't just for people starting out. The Hodgdon website, reloading manuals and other company sites provide information for all reloaders, regardless of experience level. . Good reloaders do not guess. They research first.



I suspect John looks for 90% plus case fill for almost all rifle loads. They perform the best for regular hunting and target cartridges. The only exceptions can be cast or low power loads for small game.

Thank you, shaman, that may prove helpful in my making choices. I'm just looking into reloading, myself, and no one local to teach. I have a lot of reading to do.

You gotta get offline, and read the most current handloading manuals available- many.
The when you understand the steps and the language attend a rifle range or two and humbley ask your questions. Researched questions, you might be well on your way to trying it.
Learning this online by watching video's and no personal human interaction- bad
Yes....ask some old guys that are well equipped.
Old guys rule.

He's got to do a number of things. All of them simple. It's called blended learning,

The old guys here will howl and cuss, but they are not the answer to all his reloading questions. They are merely a part of the whole. Talking to people is important, but the learner has to take some responsibility and do some research on his own.

Reloading manuals are good.
Old guys can be good, but they can have a lifetime of bad habits and faulty information, so be aware that what you are told may not necessarily be infallible or 100% correct.
The Internet has places that are helpful. Bullet and powder companies. Chronograph companies. Articles and papers published by reputable people/organizations. The NRA. SAAMI, CIP, most gun writers.
Certain software is good. Software for rifles scopes. Ballistic software. Even Excel, for recording loads, velocities, data and component supplies. (How many Nosler BT 150s do you have? Powder inventories, etc.)
Web forums can be good places to ask for help. Where can I buy a book/software/magazines about ....?

Pretty close to what I do. Problem with some of the older material, like Ken Waters’ Pet Loads, we have a lot more powders and bullets now than he had. JB’s stuff is current.

I spend time here on the Fire, some on other sites, try to find what’s working for others. Then load some and see how they perform.

That’s worked pretty well for me, saves a lot of trial and error work.

DF

Mike,

Yes, I also look for at least 90% case-fill--which generally happens when the highest-velocity powders for a particular case/bullet combo are selected.

The exception, of course, is reduced loads.

I used to try a number of powders and always ended up with the powder that came closest to filling the case. So that's where I start unless I want to play around with faster powders.

Another advantage(?) is that with the slower powder you get higher muzzle pressure which makes a bigger boom. Used my 6mm Rem. when hunting with my cousin and his kids one year, hand loads of course. Don's kids were using 243 Win with factory loads. The kids were mightily impressed with the 6mm because with that big boom it must be much more powerful than the piddly little .243.

I start out with 4895 and 4198... if it won't shoot those for accuracy, I think the barrel might not be up to snuff...

https://load-data.nosler.com

This is a good reference. It also has most accurate load, which is often not the highest velocity choice.

Steve's Reloading pages.. stevespages.com

Plenty of reload data.. glad the site is still maintained, after Steve Riccardelli passed away...

a fellow campfire member if people recall ..