24 yrs infantry, used all the milspec stuff always readily available, never gave thought to cost honestly. Used clp all over the planet, used lSA in winter at fort carson and training in germany and norway, used LSA in korea in winter, used light coat clp in morroco, used graphite in desert storm with light clp, used clp in oif 1, used vasaline in panama on exterior and clp inside, never had issues keeping a weapon up and running, 10 to 15 min basic wipe down exterior with barber brush and feild cleaning with kit. Basically milspec stuff depending on climate. Been surfing all the crazy conoctions on the web, basically anything from motor oil to vagisil (of all things) bug juice, red juice, ect ect ect, got my ar about 4 months ago, been using CLP and used hoppes bench rest for copper every 300 rds . I keep my weapon clean, i dont subscribe to the run it till it fails or see what breaks then clean it club, cause it will give me "bragging rights" that i shot 4753 rds before my extractor broke and also discoved cracks in my bolt and carrier... gee ya think not cleaning it put mechanical and pressure stress into it at all........ anyways i retired in 2008 i have put 453 rds thru my weapon so far and have an issue with new age CLP/Breakfree, the shyt just evaporatesin storagre and burns off in firing to fuqqing fast, definately not the old school formula with all the money shot teflon and chem additives you had to shake up from the bottom. Im talking like 2 to 3 days in the case and the lube is not wet ,still in a film but not wet. I like to dry fire for 5 to 10 minutes daily so the evaporation rate is noticable. so i purchased 2 4oz bottles of CLP , 1 4 oz bottle of LP, 1 4oz bottle of regular hoppes #9 and 2 1oz bottles of lucas extreme duty gun oil (blue green color) so i mixed up 18 oz of a homebrew clp last wensday. The stuff is still wet , not migrating and holding well on everything so far, im gonna out and shoot tommorow probably around 150 rounds and see how the homebrew works. Spent just under 30 bucks. 18 0z will last awhile i imagine. AR,s will run properly on just about any lube as long as you take care of em a little bit each day when in use. Now some of ya,ll can come out and hammer me for my opinon.....
Renegade..I also read about every conceivable magic oil out there for AR's. Some are quite expensive to say the least. A few guys who I know shoot a bit said Mobil 1 and save your money. As I use it in my vehicles it's always around and cheap. I soak things pretty good after cleaning and it seems to work great. Maybe there's something "better" but I'm happy.
I have no problem with home brew as long as you are using compatible products. I have mixed and used Ed's Red in the past for general cleaning and it works fine. Anymore, the savings aren't worth the hassle and I just buy what I have found works.
Mobil One is fine for a lube but it is no cleaner.
P.S. Your post would be much easier to read if you broke it into paragraphs instead of one long run-on sentence.
NV, to clarify, yes I meant only for a lube
Hahaha! Aint the 1st or last time about the run on sentance thing. Thank you english nazi guy. Jk hahaha!!!
They will run on just about any lube and keep em semi clean in good working order. I totally agree. I find myself looking at shell rotella in 15w40 at wally world now, i find myself looking at mobile 1 synthetic and wondering if it is european formulated. Fuqqing shyt i would never have giving a thought too beforr looking at all the stuff that is out their and what people use
Too much damm info on this that and the other on the internet . That it makes you contemplate this shyt way too much....
Hahaha!!!
whale oil is your huckleberry
That is on the internet also, some guy made a post saying he had access to some from an old relative. Go figure... always could render down jeff o , but their aint no way i would taint my weapon with "liberal lube"
Breakfree CLP works for me. No reason to change.
It’s much less important what you lube with; more that you just lubricate. None of us are going off on a 6 month deployment with our AR’s tomorrow, so most any lubricant will do. Mobil one, or a simple non-detergent motor oil (or use detergent as long as you’re cleaning your rifle sometime in the next 6-8 months). The Teflon in CLP gives it a little edge in real extreme conditions and part of the reason the military uses it; it tends to work well in most places in the world. But for us here in the US just going out for a range day, just use a decent motor oil and you’ll be in pretty good shape unless you’re planning on going through a couple of cases of ammo in an afternoon…then it may be time to get a little more high tech…and it would be a good idea to stop and re-lube from time to time under such conditions. But I’m betting you have a very good handle on how much and how often for lubrication.
As long as it stays on the parts that need it, it'll work.
I've been using Machine gunners lube from Springco for several years now and it works as well as anything I've seen so far.
I have so much of the old CLP I may never run out at this rate.
BUt in a pinch, its whatever synthetic I've in the engine block at the time. Might have been known to pull the dipstick for a drop or two in a pinch.
Why i stuck with breakfree clp and breakfree lp as the major portion of my mixture, it works great as suspension for carbon and cleaner, added the lucas oil for its supposed heat properties and resistance to drying up, added the # 9 for more cleaner affect and to help offset the thickness from the lp and lucas oil, seems to be working and not evaporating or migrating so far, gonna shoot some slow fire tommorow, then some aimed doubles and bumpfire a 30 off the shoulder in 5- 7 rd burst. Then bust it down check it out, oil down the bolt and carrier , drop some oil down the barrel while warm and snake it twice. Then put some oil in the chamber , rotate it along the lenght of its axis, work the bolt about a dozen times , case it up and drive home , let the home brew clp work a little while and clean it good at home, i will see the results of this clp right after done firing, then how it loosens up crud from oiling down before i leave and clean it at the house, i enjoy cleaning my guns anyways, always have.
One thing i aint done is scrub some of the korean run surplus stores here around ft campbell for some old school moneyshot shake up brakefree . If any is to be found , them old scrubby ahjama ex korean whores that married a soldier back in the day would have some. And ask top dollar for it too even though aint noone asked for some in years...cant hurt to look around might get lucky and find some at a decent price.
Springco machine gunners lube.... google on the way.
For straight lubrication, Mobil 1 is your friend (or most any of the straight synthetic motor oils).
MM
I find myself looking at shell rotella in 15w40 at wally world now,
Don't use Rotella T or any other detergent oil. It lubricates just fine, but the detergents make it worse for corrosion resistance than bare/dry steel.
Feel free to repeat my test if that doesn't sound right. I cleaned and then bead blasted a piece of steel to test, and dabbed a bit of each oil I wanted to test in different areas, leaving one spot clean. (avoid fingerprints too) Then just leave it outside for a few weeks; maybe water it with the hose if it's not raining. When I did this, the clean spot on the steel had some mild surface rust, but the Rotella T 15W40 spot had several deep pits. Kroil also was worthless for rust prevention, same for Hoppes #9 of course. Most of the gun oils and even WD40 did a pretty good job preventing rust. I did not test Mobil 1 though; need to do that since I use it in the car anyway.
Seen test like you mention on the internet, pretty interesting, clp by itself actually performed well. The shell rotella thing is something i found myself looking at in walmart cause it tripped a word picture in my mind from all the chit i been reading.. the homebrew i worked up should work well just gotta get out and shoot tomorrow and look for the results of it
I've never bought into the clean, lube and protect in one idea. Most cleaners break down oil that lubes so it just doesn't add up in my mind.
TWR, I agree with that as well. There are a number of products that do two of those things well, but I don't know of anything that does all three well. I also don't know why the average user should need such a product; it's not that hard to have cleaning solvent separate from your gun oil, heck most of us have way more varieties of both than we'll ever need.
For a general cleaner, I like CLP and Hoppes #9. They are easy to find, cheap, and work well with a stiff nylon brush.
For a lubricant, I like Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. It seems to work about as good as anything else I have tried. Its cheap too.
There is some interesting info in this thread of various tests.
I've used & tested several of the products tested by the author in industrial type humidity cabinet tests & my results are fairly similar to his.
A couple of the product's results did surprise me.
For sure, for the most part, lubrication needs are best served by lubricants; corrosion protection is best served by products intended for that use...........there are very few that crossover & do a really good job of both, especially if the lubrication needs are high.
MM
Lube & Corrosion Tests
For sure, good lubrication and corrosion protection are often found in the same products. It's good lubrication and good cleaning that are generally somewhat at odds with each other particularly where high pressure and/or high temperature lubrication is required.
They call threads like this on ar15.com. lube wars, them dudes get heated on there about stuff at times. Tried to join but ya cant intially for some reason with a gmail account...
Another site called weapons evolution had the same deal , but it is alot of industry reps on it and the users seem somewhat civil.
It's good lubrication and good cleaning that are generally somewhat at odds with each other particularly where high pressure and/or high temperature lubrication is required.
Yes, I do agree with that.
As to corrosion protection, that is pretty dependent on how severe the test (or real life) conditions are.
The industrial standard that has been most used & is quite severe that I've worked with is a Detroit Diesel's spec which requires 96 hours at 90% humidity at 90F degrees with no corrosion acceptable.
Some of the types of products that will provide that protection could be considered as lubricants for some applications but there are surely better products for that purpose..............as you've pointed out, it somewhat depends on the conditions that the lube must meet. Higher pressures & temps are definitely more demanding.
MM
I've read a ton of threads on lubing the AR, it can get entertaining...
Pat Rogers saw more rounds down range than most folks ever will, being a shooting instructor whose students usually shot 1000 rounds or more in a 2 day class, he saw several failures and more than a few trends. He also kept notes that were full of vital info on failures. He used to post some of these nuggets on M4C and a few other boards. He is the one who used Vagisil and just about everything else available. (Google "filthy 14" for some interesting reading.) The last I knew he used Slip 2000 I believe and used a cleaner to clean when he had to. Sadly he passed away a year or two ago.
In an interview he talked about what makes an AR run. As long as the lube stayed where it was needed, it worked. It also needed to remain consistant in all weather conditions. He liked something enviromentally friendly. He did not subscribe to the theory that CLP or any other cleaner/lube/protector worked. Use a good lube or at least reapply any lube when you needed it and use a good cleaner when you needed to clean it.
I got a few small bottles of Machine Gunners lube from LaRue Tactical everytime I ordered from them and found that it worked for me and I started keeping one of the small bottles in the pistol grip of my guns or in the stocks. I'm sure there are better products out there but it's worked on everything I've used it on, pistol or rifle. A buddy had a gun quit him on a hunt we were on. I started taking my stock off and he started laughing at me, "don't tell me you got gunsmith kit in there" I pulled out a bottle of MGL and he was soon back in business.
I've got a solvent tank at my shop for cleaning and have found B12 Chemtool gets the carbon off better than anything else. So when I need to clean more than a wipe down, it goes into the vat then soaked in B12. Blown dry then wiped down with MGL. It's worked for me.
I've read a ton of threads on lubing the AR, it can get entertaining...
Pat Rogers saw more rounds down range than most folks ever will, being a shooting instructor whose students usually shot 1000 rounds or more in a 2 day class, he saw several failures and more than a few trends. He also kept notes that were full of vital info on failures. He used to post some of these nuggets on M4C and a few other boards. He is the one who used Vagisil and just about everything else available. (Google "filthy 14" for some interesting reading.) The last I knew he used Slip 2000 I believe and used a cleaner to clean when he had to. Sadly he passed away a year or two ago.
In an interview he talked about what makes an AR run. As long as the lube stayed where it was needed, it worked. It also needed to remain consistant in all weather conditions. He liked something enviromentally friendly. He did not subscribe to the theory that CLP or any other cleaner/lube/protector worked. Use a good lube or at least reapply any lube when you needed it and use a good cleaner when you needed to clean it.
I got a few small bottles of Machine Gunners lube from LaRue Tactical everytime I ordered from them and found that it worked for me and I started keeping one of the small bottles in the pistol grip of my guns or in the stocks. I'm sure there are better products out there but it's worked on everything I've used it on, pistol or rifle. A buddy had a gun quit him on a hunt we were on. I started taking my stock off and he started laughing at me, "don't tell me you got gunsmith kit in there" I pulled out a bottle of MGL and he was soon back in business.
I've got a solvent tank at my shop for cleaning and have found B12 Chemtool gets the carbon off better than anything else. So when I need to clean more than a wipe down, it goes into the vat then soaked in B12. Blown dry then wiped down with MGL. It's worked for me.
I really hated trying to clean an M-16 with CLP. It took way too long and rarely got the gun clean. A spray can of cheap carburetor cleaner worked so much faster and did a better job. I relube with a mix of salvaged 90wt gear lube and an equal mix of RemOil. But, I can see where any synthetic oil would be great as well. Sometimes I think folks over think this gun cleaning thing.
I never took a class with Pat Rogers but got involved in a few conversations with him and some other meat eaters on the lightfighter.net site. He was a great guy and hard core shooters all over the country will miss him.
They call threads like this on ar15.com. lube wars, them dudes get heated on there about stuff at times.
So true.
I'll admit to being not very picky about my gun lubes, other than not liking CLP. I do like the stuff I'm using now, partly because the bottle has a nice fine pointed tip for dispensing small drops in tight spaces. It's called CorrosionX, and does do a good job of rust prevention as well as lubing. When it's gone though, maybe I'll just refill the bottle with Mobil 1, after I test it for rust prevention of course.
My easy way for cleaning AR and pistol receivers - spray WD40 in it, let it soak a minute, then blow it out with compressed air (not the stuff in a can, I mean 120 psi shop air).
As long as the crud wasn't baked on hard and dry, this leaves the parts looking like new. I blow as much WD40 off as possible, then just re-oil and I'm done. A thin film of WD40 doesn't cause the problems that some see from using it as oil or leaving parts wet with it, and it's a pretty decent cleaner for powder fouling.
For a general cleaner, I like CLP and Hoppes #9. They are easy to find, cheap, and work well with a stiff nylon brush.
For a lubricant, I like Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. It seems to work about as good as anything else I have tried. Its cheap too.
Of the 3 things CLP does, clean is the one it does worst. It's really best at lubricating and as a preservative. In fact, it's downright superior in those roles vs. the vast majority of products out there. But in the cleaning role...well, about the best I can say is...it will clean.
Clean your rifle,
then lubricate it.
Compressed air was mentioned earlier in this thread...
I don't use compressed air to "clean" a rifle. I scrub the rifle as you should to remove what you are trying to clean off of, or out of the rifle. There's substitution for elbow grease.
I DO use compressed air after I have a clean rifle to properly lubricate the rifle though. Apply the lubricant, then use the compressed air to spread the lube throughout the nooks and crannies that can't be reached with wiping or spraying a lubricant on.
I don't use compressed air to "clean" a rifle. I scrub the rifle as you should to remove what you are trying to clean off of, or out of the rifle. There's substitution for elbow grease.
I'm sure that's better because more work = better results, right? If you try cleaning with compressed air and a thin oil/solvent like WD40 or mineral spirits, you might be surprised. All those nooks and crannies you can't reach by scrubbing are magically cleaned out as well. Of course if the fouling is dry and hard scrubbing is required, but I mentioned that above already.
I use compressed air to clean some parts, of course I mix glass beads in with it...
Scrubbing with a brush and running solvent is what cleans. The air is just to dry the parts in my case.
WD40 is a good solvent for a lot of stuff' B12 is a good cleaner for carbon as well.
Key to what Yondering is saying about WD40 is using it before crud gets to the point of being baked on.
MM
I've never bought into the clean, lube and protect in one idea. Most cleaners break down oil that lubes so it just doesn't add up in my mind.
I do not use the CLP formulation. Break Free LP only.
It is what works for me. It is only a Lubricant/Preservative. Use it after using your cleaning potions.
24 yrs infantry, used all the milspec stuff always readily available, never gave thought to cost honestly. Used clp all over the planet, used lSA in winter at fort carson and training in germany and norway, used LSA in korea in winter, used light coat clp in morroco, used graphite in desert storm with light clp, used clp in oif 1, used vasaline in panama on exterior and clp inside, never had issues keeping a weapon up and running, 10 to 15 min basic wipe down exterior with barber brush and feild cleaning with kit. Basically milspec stuff depending on climate. Been surfing all the crazy conoctions on the web, basically anything from motor oil to vagisil (of all things) bug juice, red juice, ect ect ect, got my ar about 4 months ago, been using CLP and used hoppes bench rest for copper every 300 rds . I keep my weapon clean, i dont subscribe to the run it till it fails or see what breaks then clean it club, cause it will give me "bragging rights" that i shot 4753 rds before my extractor broke and also discoved cracks in my bolt and carrier... gee ya think not cleaning it put mechanical and pressure stress into it at all........ anyways i retired in 2008 i have put 453 rds thru my weapon so far and have an issue with new age CLP/Breakfree, the shyt just evaporatesin storagre and burns off in firing to fuqqing fast, definately not the old school formula with all the money shot teflon and chem additives you had to shake up from the bottom. Im talking like 2 to 3 days in the case and the lube is not wet ,still in a film but not wet. I like to dry fire for 5 to 10 minutes daily so the evaporation rate is noticable. so i purchased 2 4oz bottles of CLP , 1 4 oz bottle of LP, 1 4oz bottle of regular hoppes #9 and 2 1oz bottles of lucas extreme duty gun oil (blue green color) so i mixed up 18 oz of a homebrew clp last wensday. The stuff is still wet , not migrating and holding well on everything so far, im gonna out and shoot tommorow probably around 150 rounds and see how the homebrew works. Spent just under 30 bucks. 18 0z will last awhile i imagine. AR,s will run properly on just about any lube as long as you take care of em a little bit each day when in use. Now some of ya,ll can come out and hammer me for my opinon.....
No hammer here. My experience and findings on CLP are the same. I will run it on semi-auto pistols that I shoot frequently, but it evaporates too quickly and runs, IMHO. Just doesn't have enough "ass" for staying power, but works good while it's there.
WD40 is a good solvent for a lot of stuff' B12 is a good cleaner for carbon as well.
Key to what Yondering is saying about WD40 is using it before crud gets to the point of being baked on.
MM
Yes, exactly. AR bolt tails and semi-auto pistol magazine wells, for example, are two places I usually have to scrub a bit. Most everything else ends up shiny clean with a squirt and blast.
Stuff worked pretty darn good, got enough to last awhile. Signing out of the lube/cleaner war for now. Next chore is to pick up 2 boxes of barnes vortex 62 gr and see how close it shoots to my 855 stuff, wpn kill a man im sure it can kill the fuq outta a deer in crappy weather this fall.
you are not missing on AR15.com... I haven't been there in probably 15 years... mostly crap thats un educated and not worth wasting your time on, at least when I quit reading that one....
Oil is oil. Some might be better than others, but it doesn't take much lube wise, just keep it lubed....
Cleaning is a much larger battle field and still its the same thing.
As to nooks and crannies and air etc.... all I can say is in years and hundreds of thousands of rounds competiton, we never used air, and never had an issue, either cleaning or lubing... or wear or function wise.
The more lube threads I read on any forum, the more confused I am as to what to use
The only thing I came away with, was don't mix the synthetic "juices" with petroleum based products.....like Frog Lube and oil.
[i][/i]
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/45096.jpg. holy fuqq ...... an hour messing around on the new image host forum . Screwed up pic half in and out of light.
Birchwood Gun Scrubber is my best friend when cleaning the little nooks and crannies.
Make sure you wear eye protection. That stuff will sting like a b***h if it splashes back in your eye.
I ran CLP in my AR (need to learn to post pics and do the "Challenge") and like some here, I didn't think it "stuck" all that well.
I'm running mine suppressed and even with an adj. gas block, she gets a bit nasty.
I mixed some Mobil Synthetic 5W-30 and Mobil Synthetic ATF fluid and wiped everything down that moves pretty generously. Ran 200 rounds, all with the can on, and broke it down. Still plenty of lube left inside the rifle. All the carbon that was supposed to be so terrible to clean because of a suppressor wiped right off the bolt carrier (it was pretty nasty).
Granted, it was only 200 rounds (over a few months at that) in Middle TN and not dozens of mag dumps in Iraq, but I'm pretty happy with it thus far.
I squirted and wiped a bunch of it on my Kimber and have ran a few mags through it since. That pistol gets fed all cast and there's usually some "lube gunk" in the nooks and crannies. Since running this mix, I've not seen as much of that.
Any drawbacks to the ATF (the fluid, not the govt. agency)?
Not using this mix on anything wood and blued, btw.
I won't use graphite or lubes with graphite on aluminum. It can lead to galvanic corrosion.
Mobil 1 and Syn ATF... 50/50% ??
Mobil 1 and Syn ATF... 50/50% ??
Just saw your post. Yes 50/50. I will say I didn't really measure it, just sort of eyeballed it into an oil can.
I've not seen anything bad written on how the detergent reacts to the finish or the aluminum, couldn't really think of anything myself, so I just mixed it and oiled everything down, BCG, trigger, and soaked some around my gas block (adj. SLR) when I had my forend off to keep the set screw on it from freezing up.
Like I said, my guns don't get run hard and are not duty weapons, but after 200 rounds, suppressed, all the gunk (and there's quite a bit of it), wipes right off.
Thanks, I recall a STP/ATF recipe somewhere but I've used mobil 1 straight up, willing to try this too.
Jeff
I joined the synthetic motor oil crowd myself. I was tempted to run the same 5-40 Castrol Edge that I use in my car (2.0Liter, high compression, twin cam, 16-valve, turbo'ed screamer) because I'm highly satisfied with it. But, I felt the viscosity was a bit thick for the AR, so I sprung for a quart of 0-20. So far, excellent "wetness" retention without having to thin the thicker stuff, and cleaning seems to go easier. Time will tell...
Thanks, I recall a STP/ATF recipe somewhere but I've used mobil 1 straight up, willing to try this too.
Jeff
Are you thinking of
Ed's Red bore cleaner?
I don't think I ever had the bore cleaner, just someone kept giving me STP/ATF IIRC in bottles as in lubricant, not cleaner.
Although I"d never read your link, I"m fairly sure I met Ed at some point in our highpower shooting over the years.
Ed's Red doesn't contain STP. It's basically a mix of ATF, kerosene, acetone, and mineral spirits, and sometimes lanolin. (Google the recipe) Not much lubricating qualities there. I use it as a general cleaner, in lieu of Hoppes. It works a treat. I mixed a gallon of the stuff a few years ago and reckon I'll still be dipping into that jug for years to come.
I've known Ed Harris for over 30 years. He's quite the gentleman, and has forgotten more about shooting subjects than most of us will ever know.
Springco machine gunners lube.... google on the way.
bottom of the page
MACHINE GUNNERS LUBE™
Machine Gunners Lube™ was developed to address specific requests from gun team leaders for a lube that would keep their machine guns properly lubricated during extended durations of full auto fire. Like most good gun teams, they work hard to stay on top of not letting the guns run dry. While many currently available lubes maintain lubricity when running "wet", some current war zone deployments do not favor traditional frequent and liberal applications, due to their propensity to attract fine desert silt particles, thereby increasing the risk of malfunctions. Our mission was to formulate a lube that would perform and protect weapon platforms in extreme environments subject to high heat, humidity, evaporative, and mechanical wear, even when applied lightly. Machine Gunners Lube™ meets these standards for all firearms ranging from handguns through .50 caliber machine guns.
Machine Gunners Lube™ is made from fully synthetic Group V base stocks. Poly Ester chains in Group V base stocks offer superior protection against thermal breakdown versus PAO's and GTL's, and contain significant natural solvent properties for self cleaning capabilities. In addition to minimizing carbon accumulation, the Poly Ester base oil acts as a water dispersant and corrosion inhibitor, protecting the lubricated parts in desert, jungle, and arctic climatic environments. Unique to Machine Gunners Lube™ is a proprietary re-micronized (0.3 micron) inhibited Molybdenum Disulfide (MOS2) component in colloidal suspension. In layman's terms, this means that the particles remain suspended within the lubricant, and do not segregate to the bottom of the container. Our inhibited MOS2 is specifically modified to retard, rather than induce corrosion. This moly component allows for a solid lubrication barrier in conjunction with the hydraulic lubrication afforded by the host synthetic lubricant. The re-micronized particles are small enough to penetrate the molecular lattice structure of the carbon, stainless, or chromium plated steel working surfaces of the weapon, where they are released under the heat of use to maintain the initial solid or "boundary" lubrication layer. No other moly additives on the market contain particles this small, nor do they share the unique ability to remain in colloidal suspension. Our proprietary manufacturing process allows the uniform distribution of the re-micronized MOS2 both within and upon the lubricated surfaces of the weapon. This ability provides a further advantage over other gun oils in the form of lubrication retention when the host / hydraulic lubricant is removed by mechanical, chemical, or environmental means. Basically, the weapon is still protected and has a functional advantage even when appearing "dry". The melting point of the MOS2 component is in excess of +2700°F !!! MSDS Available upon request to
[email protected].
High shear strength, and not susceptible to mechanical wear. High shear strength equates to increased surface tension, which in turn, keeps your parts coated for extended durations. This property also allows the use of Machine Gunners Lube™ for personal carry firearms, as it does not "run off" the pistol.
Stability in extreme heat, maintaining lubrication properties in temperatures exceeding +650°F.
Pour point of -50°F for reliable use in arctic deployment.
Contains NO Chlorinated Esters or PFTE (TEFLON®.)
Reduced carbon fouling deposition, and detergent properties make cleaning residue much easier and faster, even with .50 caliber platforms.
Available "Battle Bottle™" containers are sized to fit in any spare battery storage compartment found on most carbine platforms (grips, vertical foregrips, stocks) allowing the operator quick access to an ample quantity of lube in the field prior to return to FOB.
Unconditional "NO B.S." Money Back Satisfaction Guarantee!
If it is in a hole, or rotates, oil it.
If it slides or rubs under pressure, grease it.
My mantra.
With exceptions for firing pns and cold weather. We really do not have a dust problem here.
I posted this for a Piston vs DI discussion a while back. If you scroll down the linked ARF.com thread, Ron from Henderson Defense also shares his experiences with lubes. Not much differentiation from the guy that runs more volume across more guns that all of us combined will ever do, but that in itself is a statement.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/10590656/re-piston-guns#Post10590656