Just curious. If you wanted the "Best" 98 action you could get, what would it be? I'm a rookie when it comes to Mausers but I see some bring big money. Just curious as to top choice.

Best is a relative term. What is the intended use?

And, are we talking about commercial or military?


MM

Will never own one, but the Granite Mountain Arms M 98 are what I would consider the "best" of the 98 actions.
https://granitemountainarms.com/

Small ring '98. Lovely lightweight rig.

Lets go with Military 98 actions. Maybe something you would build a quality hunting rifle off of. Before I bought a few, I thought the best was a German 98 action. Little did I know there are lots of different 98 actions. A few years later, I still don't really know squat about them but enjoy learning more and more.

FN Mauser

I like the '09's, everybody says they are too soft, but I have yet to find one that had lug setback. I got a '35 Peruvian that would be the last rifle to go, but they are pretty much unobtainium.
I think it's time for Iskra to chime in.

Wait, can I add one more to my list? The Persian Mauser by CZ BRNO, but if I had one, I don't think I could bear to modify it. Beautiful.

G33/40 is the best in my opinion

Save yourself some money and find an Interarms/Zastava Mark X rifle or action. Most of your customizing is already done. You can spend your money on a nice barrel and stock.

lotta wisdom right there^^^although Zastava hammer forged barrels are the berries in my book.

In a generic military mauser action, my definition of "best" would be a decent quality source action and a quality conversion. Something most likely an owner of half century ago dropped some money in and you can benefit from the "package presented.
That said, would I seek such. "No." Sporterizing a military rifle seldom competes well with the better purposed to begin with mauser literally improved for civilian use of origin. A matter of reinventing the wheel as reformatting a military arm. Moreover if planning on scoping your candidate, the D&T and re-forging the bolt handle for "low scope" application, yet more
reinventing the wheel' detriment!

My opinion, the best deal on the market as "fairly often available" is the early fifties era Husqvarna Model 640 rifles. FN made Belgian mauser actions as top quality and decent if plain rifles ready for field or restock. Even just harvesting the action if applicable/practical!

You have a wide choice and you shouldn't need to spend a bunch of cash!
Good Luck!

Hoping all are having nice Christmas experience and to all: Happy New year!
Best!
John

Czech VZ 24, FN commercial or military, Zastava ?M70, Mexican 1910/1936 have all worked well for me. Not familiar with Husqvarna.

Have used all of the above, but Huskies are good too....

Have a 1909 being made into a 7x57 for my daughter as we speak.

Probably the Mauser action I like best is the Commercial FN or a JC Higgins M50 which is also a commercial Mauser made for Sears, The come in two cartridges, .270 Win. or 30-06. Barrels are by High Standard and stock either by Bishop or Fajen, not sure which on that. I've made several semi-customs on them, one into a 7x57 and rhe rest stayed 30-06. The do have a bit of an oddball trigger but it's no more complicated that the pre64 Winchester M70 although different. I've replaced some with Timney's but most still have the original triggers and they've never given me trouble.
I have customs on a1909 Argentine, Styer actions one on a DWM, two commercial FNs not on JC Higgins guns. If you get the idea that I like the Mauser action you would be right.
PJ

Just dropped back to see 'Wazz Happenin'. Actually I like Z1r's response best. Application and chambering count for a lot in defining overly broad "best". For instance, 7x57 a classic ever favorite, the ultimate is a 98 "Intermediate action length" which was of specs built specifically to accommodate that cartridge! But in mil configurations, I don't recall what nations adopted them.

The Standard length actions are easy to find. In such, I add my vote to the above suggestion of the "small ring actions" and of those, the German so-called AZ actions to my mind among the best. Such, various WWI & prior German quality manufacturers to Imperial specs. All quality!

Below one sporterized AZ I bought as cheapo Bubba to restock & maybe barrel to 7x57, but for... My 'weirdness'. Once in a while I feel a 'connect' with quality - presumptively 'home brew' work - conjuring the craftsman of likely century ago. Likely a skilled individual considering a perfect full metal scrubbing, European style & 'do most with least' mil-stock rework. In the field, a lightweight "minimalist" sweetheart & now custody on my watch. A plain little rifle capturing my imagination and 'keeper'! Pix below.
Weirdly yours...
John

my oldest son has a custom FN '98 Mauser (1950someting) in 7x57. i had the bolt bent, D&T for a scope mount, Timney trigger and a 20" Douglas Featherweight barrel in a wood-like synthetic Fajen stock. i put on a 3-9x Swift, an older one.

my youngest son has a custom '16 Spanish Mauser ('93 lookalike) in 6.5x55 Swedish. i had the bolt bent, D&T for a scope mount, Timney trigger and a 24" Numrich sporter barrel in a Richards Wolverine Apache Gold laminate gunstock, i put on a 3-9x Vortex.

i have '91 Mausers thru '98 Mausers and i think the best one is a 1936 Husqvarna m46 in 9.3x57. i had the bolt bent, D&T for a scope mount, Dayton-Traister replacement cocking piece (it's now a cock on opening, i am one handed). i put on a 2-7x Leopold. i left the original trigger in, it's a 2 stage trigger pull, but it breaks cleaning (2nd pull) at 4 or 5lbs. it is a small ring and the stock is birch. i'll say it weighs at a guesstimate of 7 1/2 or 8 lbs.

i have a 1908 Brazilian Mauser and a 24/30 Venezuelan Mauser in 7x57. i have a 1944 '98 Mauser in 8x57 with a Lyman aperture sight and a Richards black walnut Wolverine stock. i have a 1895 Chilian Navy Mauser action and two other '16 Spanish Mauser sporters.

i have 3 sporters '91 Argentine Mausers in 7.65x53. i gave two Loewes to my sons, while i have the DWM. my Argentine is also has a Lyman Aperture sight. i will say that the Loewes Mausers is sweet and svelte.

the '98 Mauser class is just well, overengineered. now i am saying that Paul Mauser built a greet military firearm. even after today, all bolt actions are a derivative of Paul Mauser's 1898 action. i use Mauser's for hunting, not for killing soldiers. i'd use a '96 Mauser small ring and go from there.

Radom would have to be in the discussion. Best military I have seen.

Commercial FN 98 Easy answer! At least 10 companies or more have sold commercial 98 FN's as the actions on their rifles. To name a few ---Weatherby, Browning, Sears. Montgomery Wards, Smith and Wesson and more like National Arms, Herters, Colt and the list goes on. Oh yeh, High Standard, Husqvarna. These are not counting the 98 copies. The Zastava/Interarms, Charles Daly, Rem 98's are also very good.
I know here are some more but I can't remember them right now!!! Getting old.
I forgot one more. Marlin also used one.

I have four 98s on hand, three FN and a Heym. All but one of the FNs, a Paul Morton custom that cost $750, cost $600 on GB. The only issue with them is they sometimes need another hole drilled for a base, or maybe an odd one filled then re-drilled for current bases, and the triggers of course. The Heym also cost $600 coinkadinkly. Other commercial versions can be found at similar prices, and will save you a bundle on gunsmithing over a military conversion, and you won’t be futzing up a piece of history or throwing collectible money down the toilet. If you can find a military action with all the work done and paid for by someone else, that’s fine too.

Building a sporting rifle around a Mauser 98 military action strikes me as being cost prohibitive if you're not able to do most of the work yourself.

It would be less expensive to start with a commercial Mauser 98 action, like the FN actions that Husqvarna used on some of the 640 series rifles. Simpson LTD in Galesburg, IL, imports used firearms from Europe by the shipping container load and is a good, reliable, source for the FN actions that Husqvarna used before they developed the HVA small ring action.

If you're set on using a large ring 98 military action, those made by Mauser and DWM/Ludwig Lowe in Germany before WW1, those made by Steyr in Austria, those made by CZ in Czechoslovakia, those made by FN in Belgium are all good choices if the action itself is in good condition. The only ones that I'd avoid like a syphilitic whore would be those made in China and Spain.

I have them built on the following military actions; 1908 DWM, 1909 DWM, 1912 Steyr, 1912 Mexican, 1916 Erfurt, 1924/30 FN, and 1936 Mexican.

As someone wrote early on, "best" is a relative term and subject to interpretation.

You can read up on Mauser rifles forever and handle as many as you can find, and you will still find variations that are rare and unusual that most guys have never heard of

This one: BRNO 22 post war small ring commercial 98. A custom small ring Mexican 98 is close, but takes a lot of work to get to the point that the small ring BRNOs came from the factory.



ETA. I'm referring to sporting rifles, not collectible military or commercial mausers.

The OP was asking specifically for military actions.

I think to build on a "mauser" you either need to do it as cheap as possible (without being ridiculous) or go all out in terms of components and work. Anything in between is going to be worth pennies on the dollar. Certainly a labour of love, not practicality.
Still, I keep an eye out for a really nice south american crested (oberndorf or dwm) or pre/early years of WWll (oberndorf or Brno manufactured) action to consume all my disposable income!
Those commercial Brno small rings are very common "up here" but IMHO need a bunch of work and parts to really be practical hunting rifles in modern terms. Trigger, safety, bolt handle and stock can all use improvement, even before getting into a nicer fp/tg. As a nice period piece mimicking a Mauser Sporting rifle they are nice as issued.

psycodog;
Good afternoon, I hope you had a good Christmas and that your part of Oklahoma is having an acceptable winter so far.

Thanks for the interesting question and of course thanks to those who've answered, it's always educational and fun for me to read where other 'Fire folks are at on subjects such as this one.

Since you've stipulated military 98 actions, off the top of my head I've worked on and/or built rifles on actions made by Steyr, Brno and a good handful of German factories. Straying off the military actions, I've worked on Santa Barbara, FN and Mark X commercial actions, Husky commercial and Swedish 96 actions.

As far as fit and finish of the metalwork, even into 1943 during Nazi occupation, there's not a huge difference, especially if one is going to smooth, true and polish up the action a little anyways.

Some posters have mentioned that it's a potential money pit unless one can do the work yourself and hopefully I can be forgiven if I say a hearty "Amen" with a couple exclamation marks behind it.

Showing my age here, the walking around rifle I currently hunt with is a between the wars 98 with no Nazi proofs and a Mauser roll mark on the top. It had external rust pitting on the action, but internally was clean and I thought it was worth every penny of the $35 I paid for it about 20 years back. We could get bolts for $20 at the gun show back then too and I might have even had a spare in the parts bins?

The Steyr and another German made one - where escapes me but perhaps Erfurt - both covered in waffenampts so wartime made, were $50 for a rifle with an unfinished Bishop stock in the case of the Steyr and a complete barreled action - it was a .308 with the Star of David on the barrel - for the German made one.

I did some gun work for a friend, didn't want to take anything for it and he left a VZ24 action on the bench when he left - all illustrations of the price I like to pay for a military action that's going to keep me out of mischief in the shop over the winter.

Even after all the work I put into them, honestly a small ring Husky action is smoother, looks better and of course is lighter.

The slickest military action I've ever personally done was a 1903 made Carl Gustav 96 Swede that I installed a Dayton Traister cock on open kit, as well as smoothing and stoning some of the parts - it runs like it's on greased rails. Everyone who tries it has the same look when they run it, you know that, "Huh" sort of expression.

Even it's only about on par with a Husky though for smooth running in my opinion.

For all that, to be clear and open, I do not own a rifle that's built on a Husky action and am of Teutonic lineage as far as I can learn, so it's not nationalistic pride or anything, just a lifetime of fooling with rifles for family and friends.

If you're interested in reading up on Mausers, I believe that Ludwig Olson's "Mauser Bolt Rifles" is as good a place to start as any.

Hope that was useful to you or someone out there.

All the best in the New Year.

Dwayne

the Husky made some dang fine rifles. i have a Husqvarna m46 in 9.3x57 that was made in 1936. i had a Dayton Traister cock on open set too. when i first got it, the trigger was excellent. somebody already stoned it. i had my gunsmith D&T for a scope mount and bend the bolt handle. i put on 2-7x Leopold and shoot a 275gr WFN GC with IMR 4895. the Husky is #2 on running it. i have a 1898 Springfield Armory (1903) in 30-40 Krag that has that honor.

tdoyka,
Everything in you post above is great. But the best part is:
""Russia sucks."
---- Me, US Army (retired) 12B & 51B"
I'm the biggest Mauser fan in the world (prove me wrong!!) but these days I love your signature block the best. Which has nothing to do with the subject.

Happy New Year,
Rex

Specifically "98", or do you also entertain 'derivatives of' as well?

^^^Oh yeah

I have 4. All large ring M98's. As has been already stated the easiest thing is to get a commercial 98 as the work is already done. Or as in my case buy what somebody else already spent the time and money on converting. Just some examples of what you can find if you want.

Rifle 1 is a war time FN 98 sporter in 30-06. Slick action and shoots well. I paid $185 for that one.

Rifle 2 is a pre-war 98 custom in 257 AI. Pretty stocked rifle that came bedded, drop magazine, mashburn trigger, that shoots bug holes. That was my most expensive 98. Paid $540 and came with dies, brass, and some bullets.

Rifle 3 is a FN commercial M50 sold by Sears in 30-06. Haven't shot that 1 much but little bit I did, it shoots. I had a M50 before, also a true commercial FN, and this one. This one has the slickest action of the 3, came bedded, and has a nice stock. Paid $375 this past June.

Rifle 4 is just a 98 with original 8x57 stepped barrel and a sporterized stock. Has a steel redfield receiver sight and still has the original safety and bolt handle. Think I paid $300 for that one which was before I bought any of the others, and $300 was enough.

I've got one that developed lug set back, it had been chambered in 308 Norma. So, it is possible. My 9.3x62 seems fine, and i have 2 more mag bolt 1909's coming my way soon. All 3 (not the 9.3) will be sent off for heat treatment once they're here and stripped.

The 1909 Argentine gets my vote.

1909 Argentine have a cool crest and hinged floorplate, but I put the VZ24 ahead of it. I think the VZ24 is the best of the common large ring military 98's

Commercial large ring would go to the FN & Browning FN.

Small ring military would be the G33/40 & the VZ33 Mauser, followed by the Mexican 1910 then the Swede 96

Commercial small ring would be the Husqvarna

I just said military because I was given a choice. The reason for my original question is I see a lot of rifles built off the older actions that are waaaay up in price. Mines built of an FN military action, unknown barrel, but its not factory, beautiful walnut stock and a Timney trigger in 6.5x55. A very nice rifle in itself. i was just throwing the question out there as I am curious to see what most considered the "best" action to build off of if one was wanting a top end custom built Mauser rifle. I'd kinda like to know what to look for and what to shy away from.

Well then my friend, IMHO you will never do any better than a BRNO 21 or 22 commercial...but some think it a sin to cannibalize near perfection that they represent. Yeah you can go much further with bling and cosmetics and eye popping wood, but I doubt you will improve on metallurgy, strength, function, overall quality fit, and reliability. Just one man's opinion.

Two men's opinions.

I like the all of the Intermediate length M48 derivitives all great for building on. You are getting modern post war steels and heat treat. At this point the German machinery is perfected and tooling is post WWII. They seldom have any pitting to deal with at all. Bolt is already bent on most of them. People like Ken Farrell make scope bases out of steel that do not require the charging hump sanded down with up to 30 MOA off the shelf and if you want more can be custom machined for more. I have other Mauser actions but I liked the "newness" of my M48A I just replaced the stamped steel bottom metal with billet steel bottom metal. I added a $25 Swiss Machine Gun Barrel to it allong with a Ken Farrell 30MOA scope base. Waiting on stock. I did no machine work to the action outside of the drilling and tapping. I can put it back to stock with it's stock barrel. Last I checked the M48's have no collector value and are not at all rare.

I have a three VZ24's I plan to build as well but two of those where road hard and put away wet the other one is my truck gun they will need significant cosmetic work on top of a lot of other work like forging the handles down or wielding different bolt handles on. Mine are prewar and show heavy use so everything is suspect until I know it is not from hardness of the steel to levels of concentricity and precision of the machine work. Nothing wrong with them at all they are all fine rifles but lets face it the further back in time you go with rifles the more variability there is from part to part, lot to lot, and from one batch of steel tot he next batch. So if you are going to build off of antique military weapons it pays to inspect everything with a keen eye and to be prepared to need to do more machine work and finish work. This clearly also depends on the condition of the rifle you start with.

Now if we are talking commercial actions from finished rifles it does not matter. All of the European Commerical Actions post war that where finished and proofed rifles are all great to build off of. Clearly you want to shop for one that is in great shape and has as many modern features that you want already built into them.

If we are talking modern Mauser or Near Mauser clones again not going to matter. They will all work great. Some people poo-poo investment cast actions but I think all of the Mauser and Winchester Mod 70 clones even the investment cast ones work great. If done properly investment casting can produce a part that is as strong or stronger than a forged part. Since it creates a part that is far closer to the desired outcome it takes a lot less machine work or man and machine time to complete. In some cases this could allow for more time to be spent on gettingthings close to perfect as compared to just getting a usable part to kick out the door. In the case of the Ruger M77 MkII Ruger failed to take advantage of this and the finished machine work is rather crude. Nothing wrong with that almost a Mauser action just saying the machine work could be better. I think Montana and Kimber use investment cast actions and I have heard good things about them. The few I have encountered have been really nice rifles those are more like Mau-chester designs. Finding a nice CZ/Brno/Zastava modern rifle would be the cheapest way to go and they would need nothing.

A lot of use picked up Mausers of various military origins for $50 or less. My M48A brand new and unissued was $149 to $199 from Dunhams but I got mine on a Black Friday sale and I think I I paid $99 for it. I got an unissed Yugo SKS that same day for $99 I think regular price on that was also $199. Some guys on here picked up 1909's for $50 or less and gunsmithing rates and barrel prices where much friendly back then as well! So keep that in mind. When I was 12 my grandfather bought me an M1 Carbine from a pawn shop in Ft. Benning Ga for $50. There used to be a ton of parts from a lot of suppliers for sportirizing Mausers and Springfields.

Generally, I agree with this & much depends on what condition the action that you have to work with is in.

I've used 1909, VZ24, Brno, Spandau & FN'S & with similar work they all turn out pretty much the same...................it just so happens that I've had some very pristine 1909's & that makes things a bit easier from the start & the bottom metal lends itself to making a nice floorplate, otherwise, when available I've used Mark X bottom metal, always with a reshaped triggerguard.

As for commercial, hands down a nice FN.

I still have several laying around wanting to be given a new life, a couple of 1909's & 2 or 3 VZ-24's, all with new bolt handles welded on.................but that's just not going to happen.

All referring to large ring actions only.

MM

As a background, I'm terrible tight and practical.

Sitting on a Hyem 308 bought cheap months ago, basically barreled action and bottom metal. Needs a decent trigger, thinking about a M70 trigger and safety.

Probably could do the work, afraid to.

So...$500, and it needs a handle.

Couple hundred for wood and supplies if I invest a winters spare time.

Added to (bad,😵‍💫) song I paid...$1k plus.

For a gun I may not love, that will be worth half on the money invested.

Love the pics I see, there are some awesome guns being built.
But how in thee heck does one pencil it out when there are Sakos
floating around out there looking for a home?

never remodeled one but the Venezuelan and Peruvian are nice.

Peru. This was in 30-06 with





Venezuelan usually in the white.

i bought a Black Walnut Wolverine stock from Richards Mircofit stocks. i had to sand, bronze wool and cheesecloth it. then Minwax Antique oil (4 or 5 coats) and then Polyurethane/mineral spirits (3 poly/1 spirits) and i am done. oh, i used Johnson's paste wax to finish it up.




i bought the rifle and Redfield aperture sight for around $150. the stock was trashed, it had scratches and gouges galore. but i found out that had black mold on the inside of the stock. i contacted Richards and got a '98 and a '93 stocks. the '93 stock is laminated, Apache Gold stock, to put on my youngest son's rifle (6.5x55 Numrich sporter barrel). i bought the '93 (1916 Spanish Mauser) for around $100. i had my gunsmith bend the bolt handle and D&T for a scope mount and put a Numrich sporter barrel on it. i think it was around $250, but i ain't sure. i bought the stock for around $180.

The intermediate makes things a bit tougher, Richards inlets them.

They have blank seconds that they inlet.

Thinking of going that route, my efforts will be too hamfisted
to spend much on wood.

Operating equipment, driving a truck, right up my alley.
Can't even write legibility, or draw a stick figure,
hand work by me looks like a solid D, in 7th grade shop class.

This was my choice for a military 98. Its a 1936 Mexican in 7mm Mauser. It has a Pac-Nor barrel. The original had so much pitting you couldn't tell if it had ever been rifled.

Jim Wisner has a 1909 almost done for me in 7x57 for my daughter’s rifle project. Safety, new bolt with 2checkered panels, all rebuilt, custom Talley bases. It will have a 22” Douglas barrel installed with a barrel banded sling swivel of some sort, a front sight, and a McLaughlin Rigby style diopter peep sight. Shooting for all up 8.25 pounds. I like the 1909! If this comes out the way I think it will I shall have him make a companion in 9.3x62 with a made to order mag box.

I built a .280 AI on an '09 Argentine, I had a G33/40 which I had plans to build a .250-3000 that I foolishly let myself get traded out of. Also built a .338 WM on a Santa Barbera, currently I have a 1949 vintage FN Mauser in .257 Roberts which I plan to take deer hunting this fall.

1910 Mexican in 7x57 by Jim Wisner. The action is a good choice for that cartridge.

Tee-that is beyond nice..love it!

Very nice!

Lovely.

My 7x57 Swede by Wisner. Tidy little package.

Yes, Sir. Even the cat seems quite content with that one.

Posted this before on the Campfire several years ago, during a similar discussion:

I didn't get my ideas on commercial Mauser 98 actions off the Internet, but from various top gunsmiths, including the late Dave Gentry, who knew more about 98's than any gunsmith I've known. Dave MADE 98 actions, including left-hand, "Kurz" and magnum versions, many of which were used by various custom smiths as well as famous British gun companies. He also probably built more rifles on 98 actions of various sorts than most "traditional" smiths, because he started making synthetic-stocked rifles very early on, using his own layups.

Dave not only had the highest regard for ANY 98 actions made by FN, but also thought Mark X's were made of very good steel, even if some were roughly machined (though he also had an early Mark X that was as finely finished as any FN I’ve seen). He tested every 98 action he used, and if reheat-treating was needed sent them to the same company recommended in Jerry Kuhnhausen’s book, The Mauser Bolt Actions, a Shop Manual.

Kuhnhausen also doesn’t mention any frequent problems with commercial FN actions, though he does mention the differences in steel between early 98’s and post-WWII actions. There’s far more detail about the subject in R.A. Walsh’s book on making sporting rifles, Mauser Model 98 and 96. Walsh is a top-notch engineer who makes custom Mauser rifles on the side, and knows more about Mauser steel than most gunsmiths. He doesn’t mention any consistent problem with the steel in later commercial actions either.

As an additional observation, that after having a number of 98-actioned rifles "made" over several decades, along with buying quite a few used 98-based customs, is that if you want a very good rifle a Mark X barreled action will often group just as well as most custom-barreled 98s, regardless of actions--and require less work.

Not disposed to go back and review this Thread commentary. Sorry if anyone offended. Only here to firmly "Second" Mule Deer's comments above in respect of attempting to suggest a "Best Mauser Action." The FN postwar mauser action as getting it right in production context of quality in materials and workmanship. Yet still the "everyman's action in 'other than' custom crafting. The Zastava action also a firm "Second" to his evaluation. I find the Interarms "Whitworth" model rifles a great blend of custom-classic styling as affordable production rifles!
This isn't to 'dis'' the custom rifles typically of beauty if of widely differing styling interpretations. Just my bewilderment of why reinvent the wheel absent such as unique "human factors" in such as "accommodation" or super adornment.

There was the "Brevex" true magnum sized action and I appreciate that for what it was, yet failed for lack of buyers at its required "low production price point. The side note that those long "true magnum rounds" of British gunmaker fame, largely displaced in "everyman" context by the latter fifties Winchester "Short Mag" "factory" cartridge developments.

Here's to those FN postwar commercial mausers as yet in afterlife of half century later, still heralded!
My take!
Best!
John

I'd still pick a BRNO model 21 any day of the week. It's a commercial small ring '98 Mauser action that weighs 6 lbs 5 Oz. sans scope. Whoever decided on a 21" barrel for this 8x57mm JS Mauser had a stroke of brilliance. Weight and balance are perfect and the action is silky smooth.

I picked up this Commercial FN here on the Classifieds a few years ago. It already had the swing safety, Canjar trigger, other work done. Paid $550. It had a checkered bolt handle, was pretty nice, probably '60's vintage. I had a Swede Shilen barrel installed, dropped it in a McWoody Classic.

DF

How about just pretty, VZ24

John is on target. The Mark X-Zastava Mausers and others-correct the left side receiver weakness of the magazine thumb relief . Frank De Haas in his classic "Bolt Action Rifles" points
to this significant action weakness of the original M-98s. Some very nice Mauser rifles are pictured here.
In reviewing fairness, De Haas also points to the 98 Mauser's ability to divert gas with shroud and wisely engineered bolt gas port holes. These are failings, though few, in the original design
of the Winchester pre-64 Model 70.
My late 1950's custom M-98 has a classic English styled stock, with custom trigger and M-70 styled safety. It is chambered in 30-06 Ackley Improved, somewhat popular in those halcyon days.

I also like the Brno offerings but 'best' is one heck of a hill to climb.

Nice work by Jim on the Mex, but.... what is the stock for in the background?

I prefer the FN’s made around 1949-1951 which had the original “C” ring. I have been told they were made of “ordinance” steel similar to 4140 rather than the 86 series steel which was case hardened and from which the typical military contact 98’s were made. The ordinance steel, of course, is heat treated.

And what is the 86 series?

Please elaborate and describe what exactly the omission of the thumb cut adds?

The omission takes away an excellent gas escape route.

Which is why I asked how this is an "improvement." I'm interested in hearing 450's view on what weakness he perceives was "corrected?"

Both sides have their point on the thumb cut. Mostly for me it matters not at all either way. My Heym, being pretty much military in configuration except for the bolt handle and safety, has the cut and the loading slot. Since it wears irons and a red dot, those features are functional if I ever want to fart around with clips. Maybe someday if I run out of other stuff to dick around with…..

Another project... for a M700 in 260 Rem.

FN Browning Safari or JC Higgins Model 50.

Husqvarna made "improved"/"strengthened" small ring 1894/1896/38 commercial Mauser actions for their 640 series before they started using large ring FN actions in the same 640 series. The "improved"/"strengthened" change involved eliminating the thumb slot in the left receiver rail. I have seen exactly 1 broken military Mauser action that was dropped on a concrete floor and cracked below the thumb slot. I think that the probability of breaking a military Mauser action is probably a fraction of 1% regardless of where and when they were made, except for Chinese made military 98s, an action that I wouldn't trust under any circumstance.

I own a half dozen Mauser action rifles. I really like the thumb cut. I find that sometimes when reloading a scoped rifle in a hurry (refilling the magazine), a round can end up to the left of the bolt. If you have the thumb cut, it’s easier to keep that from happening.

My rifles are:
FN Commercial in .257 Roberts
FN Commercial in .30-06
FN Commercial from a JC Higgins M50 converted to .25-06
German K98 action customized in .270
FN prewar action used by Husqvarna in 9.3x62
FN military action customized in .22-250

All of them are sweet shooters, but the bolt on the Husqvarna is a bit stiff and could use some elbow grease.

Vz-24 built a 270 thirty years ago if I could have only one gun that would be it it’s not perfect by any means but very accurate

gave my daughter a FN Mauser that has a new Brux barrel 8 twist chambered in 257 Roberts , this rifle has a set trigger set at 8 oz.

Have ran BRNO, Oberndorf, FN and Interarms Mausers. They're all good. And most little quirks can be remedied, some can't.

I will say this:

The FN mausers seem to have most proper scope base screw holes.

Then, the warne steel bases and warne rings for fn mauser, are fkn dreamy stuff.

Agree. For the money, can’t beat em.

Flying in the face of popularity...no discussion of commercial Mauser suitability would be complete without mention of the Remington Model 30 Express, merely a Remington factory sporterized US Model of 1917, which was in fact a 'pure' Mauser stolen from Germany by the Brits to produce the Enfield P-14. Mauser did not bother to sue the Brits, since they were killing each other at an alarming rate at the time.
In any event, the nickel steel 1917 has been used in some of the most powerful cartridges without problems. Springfield eventually had to convert 1903 production to nickel steel, to resolve their heat treat boondoggles.
The 1917 had an unfairly deserved reputation for less accuracy than the '03...that was caused by the Camp Perry matches of 1918, in which 1917 rifles were issued with no provision for windage adjustment. Scorebooks issued to shooters for that match had pictures of how much Kentucky windage to hold in a 5 mph and 10 mph wind. Small wonder the '03 won.
Anyone building a one off rifle would do well to consider the "American made Mauser" as a foundation...if one would consider the obsolete .30-06 as a cartridge, the 5 groove nickel steel cut rifled barrel would be hard to beat. If anybody is interested, CMP has a thorough article online re the 1917.

Just a note, the Brno 21/22 actions that have been mentioned in this thread as being of postwar origin, are actually a pre-war design. The majority encountered are early postwar which is probably why this gets perpetuated. The prewar nature of these actions makes them all the more ahead of their time in my opinion.

Great conversation here......Thank you all.......DJW

Interesting info here. I didn't know the Peruvians were that difficult to find, I have a 25-06 and a lone action waiting for a build. While the G33/40 shaves 2.5 oz, I don't see it any better than the others. 1909's will always be near the top especially if the matching bottom metal comes with it. 1908 Brazilians and VZ 24s fall closely behind the 09 Arg.
For me the top of the heap would have to be the Persian contract CZs. I only have 1 sample, but she is a gem.

Cowboy, I wonder how many gunsmiths have felt the twinge of remorse when they sunk a twist drill into the artwork of the Persian receiver crest?

Even the Venezuelan crest is a nice crest. I got my Persian as an action only. I don't remember if it was D&T when I got it, but it is now. It wears a 7x57 barrel. I like the Farsee S/N