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Greetings, After more than 20 years in storage, I removed the grips from my Colt Gold Cup commander stainless and found rust under the grips. I've been trying to remove the rust using fine steel wool and Kroil. Can anyone suggest what kind of oil/grease I can apply on the metal to prevent rust from forming again? Cheers, Jess
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Campfire Ranger
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Wrap in vapor barrier paper.
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Campfire Tracker
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Not a gunwriter, but my methods are rub on paste wax or a spray-on dry lubricant. I have some Remington spray dry lube, had it a long time, don't know if they still make it.
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"Not in an open forum, where truth has less value than opinions, where all opinions are equally welcome regardless of their origins, rationale, inanity, or truth, where opinions are neither of equal value nor decisive." Ken Howell
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Well first off it can be problematic to try to use ferrous steel wool (standard steel wool) to try to remove/prevent rust on stainless steel. You'll need to de-contaminate those areas of any residual carbon steel. Bead blast it clean or try tooth paste and a tooth brush. Then car wax or Cerakote or you can just clear coat it.
"Supernatural divinities are the primitive's answer to why the sun goes down at night..."
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I have no idea what might be easily available in Cebu City. In the U.S. true copper wool is part of the normal standard stock at ubiquitous Walgreen's drug stores. For the reason given copper wool is better. I have used 4 ought steel wool for lots of issues with acceptable results.
In 20 year storage, leave the grips off, field strip and immerse in rust inhibiting oil - Pennzoil motor oil was traditionally good for anti-rust and corrosion inhibitors but the brand has changed over the years and I can't say yea or nea these days. Breakfree touts one of their full line of products for protection and storage - note this is not the same product as the CLP. Paint generously with a warmed slushing compound such as Rig. Cosmoline still works but with the decline of vapor degreasers for health reasons I detest taking guns out of Cosmoline. For short term live storage fresh vapor phase inhibitors in a closed container - Brownell's and all the usual suspects sell storage containers which are much more complex than just a gun sock or again if it's dead storage heavier oil, grease or slushing compound. For regular use pull the grips as part of normal field stripping - don't have to do it every time the pistol is fired but folks who never pull the grips get nasty surprises. Use Renaissance wax on the frame and on the grips. Obviously if no Renaissance Wax then whatever Johnson's Wax, furniture was whatever is available is better than nothing. I'd be very careful to avoid cleaner/waxes or other abrasives unless I did want to clean the frame. Jeweler's rouge in grease as sold for bore cleaning JB Bore paste say will do a job on rust just as it will on carbon or copper but will eventually remove sound metal too.
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Campfire Outfitter
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I use Eezox on my Ruger LCP and carry it in a pocket holster. The Eezox is working for me. I wipe the LCP down with the Eezox once a month because I sweat.
The Karma bus always has an empty seat when it comes around.- High Brass
There's battle lines being drawn Nobody's right if everybody's wrong
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i1328.photobucket.com
Thank you all for the words of advice. Since the gun is stored most of the time, I think I'll just remove the grips, remove the surface rust the best way I can and apply a light coat of RIG grease and place in a Brownell's storage bag.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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Thank you all for the words of advice. Since the gun is stored most of the time, I'll just remove the grips ( Stag grips from Ajax from a long time ago), apply a light coating of RIG grease and store in one of those plastic storage bags from Brownell's.
i1328.photobucket.com
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Tried photobucket - cant's seem to make it work. Sorry about that.
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I'm a big fan of RIG, has worked really well as a rust preventive. The nightstand pistol for a long time now, maybe a decade, has been a Colt Commander. Just looked under the grips for fun and no rust. One caution, RIG will get waxy after a long time so not the best thing for internal moving parts.
BTW, only a light film is necessary. I'll rub RIG into a flannel cloth and keep in a pill bottle for a quick wipe after handling. Takes a long time before you have to add RIG.
Last edited by nighthawk; 06/13/17.
The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh
Which explains a lot.
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WD 40 makes a long term rust preventative>It is supposed to prevent rust for up to two years with inside storage.It is what I have been using.It is called "Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor".I have seen a few tests done with different inhibiters and brake rotors that were left outside in the weather.This stuff was the last man standing.
Its all right to be white!! Stupidity left unattended will run rampant Don't argue with stupid people, They will drag you down to their level and then win by experience
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Noted the WD40 suggestion, thank you very much.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I go to the local auto parts store and buy a bottle of the Lucas Red Gun Oil, 4 or 5 bucks and it lasts a long time, I put a light coating under the grips on all my blue pistols and revolvers, have never had any problems with rust whatsoever.
Also, I haven't found a cleaner lighter lubricant that WILL stay stuck too 1911 and AR-10/15 type weapons, both of which like to be run [used] wet.
Trump Won!
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Spanish Jim's Rust Remover.
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