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Is there any non-professionals out there that have done a do it youself barrel recrowning? I have heard of using a bullet in a drill and applying some fine grit or jeweler's rouge. Anyone have any success at this or any other technique?
Thanks,
hntr
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Campfire Ranger
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I have done several with a brass screw in a drill and using valve grinding compound. Worked evry well. Use the brass screw head , a no. 10 or 1/4 " screw. Chuck the screw up on the threads
If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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Welcome to the forum hntr1. The method that I use now to recut a crown is to put this Dremel grinding bit ![[Linked Image]](http://66.77.255.87/Images/DREMELACCESS/952_D/WEB_PD/952_pd.jpg) in a battery powered variable speed 3/8" drill. I place the tapered wheel in the muzzle when its not rotating. Then I start the drill and turn it right off again. I leave the wheel lightly pressing into the crown the whole time. That wheel is very course and remember that you can always cut it again if the first rip does not work. I tried polishing the crowns with 400 paper set in at tapered wood dowel. It looks a little smoother but did not change the accuracy.
All guns should be locked up when not in use!
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Brownells makes a set of brass laps that work outstanding. Resist the temptation to put it in a drill, use the regular handle to turn it. the drill spins too fast and the compound wont stay where it is needed. Use 240 grit initially, then 400 to polish. I even use JB bore paste for a final finish. I used this on a handgun and the difference was dramatic even at 20 feet! So naturally all of my rifles get the same treatment before they ever get fired.
"Give a lazy man the toughest job, and he will find the easiest way to do it"
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I have the same items from Brownells but do use them in a variable speed drill, running slow. I had bought a fire lapping kit from NECO years ago, and never got the courage to put any down the pipe. I had a brainstorm one day and use the compounds for my crown polishing, and can say it turned out to be a good idea. I have added all lap sizes Brownells offers and can lap a 50 cal muzzleloader down to 17. The trick is seeing the works progress. I have a 30x magnifier to frequently inspect the works progress. You will get familiar with what to leave for the next compound to clean up so no over cutting is done. Remington owners will benefit the most, as the crowns are almost always in need.
Proud Member of the AccuBond Society.......
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Quote: "Resist the temptation to put it in a drill, use the regular handle to turn it. the drill spins too fast and the compound won't stay where it is needed."
They do make varible speed drills now days
Last edited by saddlesore; 05/09/07.
If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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Tim posted some pictures of crowns he polished some time back. They were outstanding. I liked them so much that I pm'ed him for his tech. on how he did it.
I followed his instruction and now have some very nice polished crowns.
I may not be smart but I can lift heavy objects
I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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My drill didnt have variable speed. I also use a high magnification loupe to check the progress and it is easy to see when you need to keep lapping or not. The tools are cheap and really work well. My rimfire rifle really needed it and it shoots well also. It has become one of my pre break in routines before I ever fire the rifle.
"Give a lazy man the toughest job, and he will find the easiest way to do it"
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Brownells also sells the hand cutters, if you need more than polishing. ( I think the barrel either needs the muzzle recut, or not. Polishing seems to be a waste.)
These hand cutters have their own guide, which fits into the bore to keep the blades square and prevent wobbling. Some are round (for the M1 Garand), flat or 11-degree taper.
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I am not my own gunsmith. Nor am I anybody else's gunsmith. I don't even play one on the internet. But if someone ever stuck one of those things in any of my rifle barrels, they too would not be my gunsmith. I have seen crownings done with steel or brass bearings mounted in drills and used with lapping compound, but never a grinding stone. This is a joke right? and I just didn't get it - I hope ;0 Brent
Last edited by BrentD; 05/09/07.
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I'm sure even in Anchorage, Alaska there has to be a gunsmith with a lathe that would put a proper crown on your barrel for a minimal cost. Get it done right, it has a most important effect on accuracy.
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the only crown I like is crown royal. seriously though I did this once on an old Marlin 44 mag rifle but used a 30-06 cartridge wrapped with 400 or so emory paper, it really helped, the gun shoots 1.5 inches for 3 shots with WW 240 softpoints. Just grind, reblue and shoot.
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My method works very well for me as I have described it.
I have posted pictures of rifle crowns that were done and the tool.
Have a nice day.
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I used the "Gunsmith Locator" from Midway. Wild West Guns 7100 Homer Dr Anchorage, AK 99518-2307 907-344-4500 wildwestguns  alaska.net Web Site for Wild West Guns
Get close and wack em hard!
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I've used a fine grinding stone, but it was round, about 1/2 inch diameter. Did a good job on a hacksawed-off barrel I once had.
Bruce
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Campfire Kahuna
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I am not my own gunsmith. Nor am I anybody else's gunsmith. I don't even play one on the internet. But if someone ever stuck one of those things in any of my rifle barrels, they too would not be my gunsmith. I have seen crownings done with steel or brass bearings mounted in drills and used with lapping compound, but never a grinding stone. This is a joke right? and I just didn't get it - I hope ;0 Brent I, uh, had the same thought... If it works for Savage99, great... But I would NOT recommend this 'technique' to anyone else and you'll sure as he!! not ever catch me doing that.. If I can get the barrel in the lathe, that's where it will be done. Otherwise, for barrel too short, I use the Brownell's cutters... Done slowly, carefully and with good thread oil, those cutters do a very good job..
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69
Pro-Constitution.
LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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Redneck, While I am not sure if you have tried my method to break the corner on a crown I doubt that you have. Therefore you have no proof if it works or does not. I have used it on a number of crowns and it always improves them. However I have not broken a corner on a crown that did not need it accuracy wise. Here is a picture of a crown that I had to do twice and cut deep on. Its of a M70 Westerner barrels crown. When I bought the rifle many years ago the owner told me that the rifle was a 2 MOA at best. I fired a few shots from it after checking the screw tension and indeed it sprayed them some. At that point the barrel was pulled and a wildcat .224" was installed. A decade or more went by and then the .224" wore out and the .264 WM factory barrel was reinstalled. It did not group well just like before. I broke the corner on the crown and it shot the same. I broke it again cutting deeper and now its the most accurate rifle that I have. I have a lot of rifles including 40X's. In my experience my method can improve a barrels accuracy and do no harm. If it does not work then the next step can be taken, whatever that is, from chucking it up to a new barrel. ![[Linked Image]](http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2926/copyofcopyof264win006lo3.jpg)
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Redneck, While I am not sure if you have tried my method to break the corner on a crown I doubt that you have. Therefore you have no proof if it works or does not. I have used it on a number of crowns and it always improves them. However I have not broken a corner on a crown that did not need it accuracy wise. Here is a picture of a crown that I had to do twice and cut deep on. Its of a M70 Westerner barrels crown. When I bought the rifle many years ago the owner told me that the rifle was a 2 MOA at best. I fired a few shots from it after checking the screw tension and indeed it sprayed them some. At that point the barrel was pulled and a wildcat .224" was installed. A decade or more went by and then the .224" wore out and the .264 WM factory barrel was reinstalled. It did not group well just like before. I broke the corner on the crown and it shot the same. I broke it again cutting deeper and now its the most accurate rifle that I have. I have a lot of rifles including 40X's. In my experience my method can improve a barrels accuracy and do no harm. If it does not work then the next step can be taken, whatever that is, from chucking it up to a new barrel. And to put a finish touch on this, remember, there will always be a place in this world for a garage mechanic who can always do a second rate job.
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This has got "We Band of Bubba's" written all over it. Has the moderator of the gunsmithing forum on AR moved over here now? 
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Redneck,
While I am not sure if you have tried my method to break the corner on a crown I doubt that you have. THAT would be an understatement.. Therefore you have no proof if it works or does not. As I said above, if you're happy with the results, swell.. But you can bet your sweet bippy that type of job will NOT be done in my shop... Best to you..
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69
Pro-Constitution.
LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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