Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Laminated stock finish?

ok i did a search and i am still clueless. i have a nice laminated clark stock for my newest 10-22. the hole for the action screw was in the wrong spot so i moved it and made a new eucheson (sp?). i was going to touch up the finish a little where the bedding epoxie was sanded off by me when i glued the pillar in for the action screw. i shot on a little tru oil. that looked so good i sprayed the whole stock. 30 hrs later it is still tacky <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

is it not bonding to the origional stock finish or is it an old can of spray? help this rifle is giving me a headache. between that and i cant keep brownells spray molly to stick to the reciever and trigger guard <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

Suicycle
Old oil... NEVER use old oil for anything... Put a heat lamp in a box and put the stock in and get it quite hot. About as hot as you can handle and maybe a little hotter, but not much. Overnight it will either flatten out and start curing, or wrinkle.

Wrinkles are bad and will mean you have to get all the goop off, but it will be easier while warm. Flattening out means that it will likely straighten out and fly right.

If I could add also, the concept of Tru-Oil, or any other oil in a can makes zero sense. It is the easiest stuff to apply in liquid form. Putting it in a can obviously sells more product, but it is not good product IMO.
art

well i dont know if it is old. i bought it about three months ago. i went and checked it a few min ago and it is not as tackie. it is smooth, you just cant touch it or it leaves very faint prints.

i will check it tomorrow about lunch and decide how to handle it from there. thanks for the tip.

Suicycle
Oils do not dry, but rather cure by polymerizing. Inhibitors are used in all finishes to get the shelf life up to some reasonable time.

The problem with the aerosol cans is they do funny stuff to the oil during spraying, so they juice the stuff a lot to get it to flatten out and that juice is much less stable than the oil itself.
art

that would be why oil finishes feel kind of sticky all the time.

well if i had just a bottle of the oil the one thing i never understood is do you put it on and let it level itself, or put it on and rub it terribly thin. and then just repeat 30 times over the next few days or weeks.

Put it on as heavy as you like, let stand for about 15 minutes and rub completely dry. Repeat 'til pleased...

ty for info. i sanded all that crap off this morning. it just rolled up like a sticker on the old finish.

I do not know what your stock has on it for a finish, but lots of catalyzed resins are used that prohibit finishes from sticking to them (which makes them a serious PITA to repair) and you may need to rub on a coat of FRESH shellac which sticks to everything and everything sticks to it. Well, almost everything...

yeah i read that in another post somewhere. that is the plan so far. thanks for all the help.

do not use shelac if you use shelac and then put a hard finish over it the hard finish will crack over time. if you have seen old paint that is cracking and starting to peel that is the result of the wood having been primed with shelac. i will say i have no experiance with a finish over an epoxy other than more epoxy. i am just a old painter with over 35 years experiance.

William

What you say is true enough, shellac can cause oils atop to crack or alligator over much time (not a next week thing) BUT, the repair for that is exccruciatingly easy and a little oil added over time will greatly reduce that.



Note also that I did not say over epoxy, but rather over those wierd catalyzed resin finishes to which epoxy will not stick. I have used and tested the shellac on rifle stocks and while not perfect, it is the ONLY option I have found for some such finishes.



Nothing would make me happier than having you give me a better way, and I mean that sincerely! I routinely use an oil finish over epoxy and have found nothing better for actually sealing wood.

thanks

art



Just looked at what we each wrote and noticed you did not say oils, but rather, hard finishes atop the shellac. You are completely correct there, but that is not what I suggested. I suggested oil atop the shellac and that problem is greatly reduced with oils....